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Old Nov 12, 2009, 01:38 PM
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central CA
Joined Aug 2002
353 Posts
my wings do awesome outside loops. I dont do them much in combat but I know that I can. just find a good plane you are comfortable with. and learn it really well. you will do good if you can do that
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Old Nov 12, 2009, 02:01 PM
Registered User
Shelby Township, MI
Joined Feb 2002
76 Posts
holes

I would strongly suggest you avoid putting wing dowels thru holes in the AL rails. The edge of the holes in the AL will cut thru any rod in very short order, under the influence of engine vibration. A fellow club member built a Battle Axe-type rail plane using an all-flying stab, and had the fiberglass pivot axle of the all-flying stab passing thru drilled holes in the rails. The f/g rod was cut CLEANLY in a matter of very few flights leading to total failure of the elevator system. The same bad result might occur with wing attachment dowels, though they will be kept from vibrating in the holes to a great extent by the force of the rubber bands. Plus they are larger in diameter (though if you use a shaft instead of a rod, that will be a marginal improvement.) Coupled with the tendency of the rails to bend at the holes, there may be better solutions.
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Old Nov 12, 2009, 05:08 PM
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central CA
Joined Aug 2002
353 Posts
good thinking there scott. my boy has a homebrew axe and we put the dowels in the PVC box. or we used U shaped coat hanger wire with hooks on the ends for the rumber bands
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Old Nov 12, 2009, 07:46 PM
Martin - AKA mr.sneezy
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined May 2004
1,692 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgilkey View Post
I would strongly suggest you avoid putting wing dowels thru holes in the AL rails. The edge of the holes in the AL will cut thru any rod in very short order, under the influence of engine vibration. Coupled with the tendency of the rails to bend at the holes, there may be better solutions.
Yep, agreed. We already removed the front dowel and integrated it into a new wing box design. I'll be flying that one tomorrow to test. The rear dowel I will test for a bit longer as it's not under so much stress (bending) in a crunch up.

The great thing about these type models is they are so easy to change...
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Old Nov 12, 2009, 07:49 PM
Martin - AKA mr.sneezy
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined May 2004
1,692 Posts
Steamers ?

Hey where's the best place to tie on the streamer ?

My first thought is to put a hole in the rudder just above the angle brackets and put a string through there...
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Old Nov 12, 2009, 08:27 PM
Gary James
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Weatherford, TX
Joined Feb 2006
269 Posts
Usually we just drill a large hole right through the angle brackets just aft of the aft-most screw.
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Old Nov 14, 2009, 09:33 AM
Will fly for food
Maryland
Joined Sep 2004
8,424 Posts
The BattleAxe has the hole through the angle brackets. Works fine.

BTW, to dial in a combat plane, do so with and without the streamer. The Battle Axe seems to be able to handle less elevator with the streamer. IOW, if you set it up so full throw is almost tip stalling without the streamer, it will tip stall with the streamer and full elevator.
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Old Nov 14, 2009, 11:10 AM
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Blue Note's Avatar
East Tennessee
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinecone View Post
The BattleAxe has the hole through the angle brackets. Works fine.

BTW, to dial in a combat plane, do so with and without the streamer. The Battle Axe seems to be able to handle less elevator with the streamer. IOW, if you set it up so full throw is almost tip stalling without the streamer, it will tip stall with the streamer and full elevator.
You should also consider attaching a streamer ( or hopefully capturing one ) to the outer region of one tip to get a feel for how it will perform differently, especially through the turns and vertical maneuvers.

BNC
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Old Nov 15, 2009, 08:17 AM
Will fly for food
Maryland
Joined Sep 2004
8,424 Posts
Yeah, I had mine capture a streamer and uncontrollably roll for a while.
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Old Nov 15, 2009, 08:58 AM
Gary James
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Weatherford, TX
Joined Feb 2006
269 Posts
On mine, I SIGNIFICANTLY increased the size of the vertical tail. I found that in the strong winds that we occasionally have here in Texas, that the standard tail was too small and the airplane oscillated in yaw. With the larger tail, it is much more stable.
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Old Nov 15, 2009, 09:02 AM
Gary James
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Weatherford, TX
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It looks like this:
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Old Nov 15, 2009, 09:05 AM
Gary James
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Weatherford, TX
Joined Feb 2006
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Oops, here it is with dimensions.
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Old Nov 16, 2009, 09:27 AM
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Shelby Township, MI
Joined Feb 2002
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fin

i agree, it's almost hard to have too big of a fin. too small and you will be fighting yaw when you get streamers on the wing.
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Old Nov 16, 2009, 08:45 PM
Martin - AKA mr.sneezy
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined May 2004
1,692 Posts
We haven't flown any of the test planes with a streamer yet, the weather is too damn hot for any more than a quick outing (like 38-41C for two weeks straight).

How long and how wide are you competition streamers ?
We have 25mm (1") crepe paper type here, easy to get.

Also why is there a string leader on the streamer, and how long is that ?

Cheers,
Martin
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Old Nov 16, 2009, 10:25 PM
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East Tennessee
Joined Nov 2007
151 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PLMS View Post

How long and how wide are you competition streamers ?
We have 25mm (1") crepe paper type here, easy to get.

Also why is there a string leader on the streamer, and how long is that ?

Cheers,
Martin
We use 1" wide crepe paper streamers also. 30 feet long. As you said, cheap and pretty easy to find.

As far as the string goes...Do you really want someone aiming for the tail of your plane??? Typically at least 10 feet long thin cotton string to keep the target zone a little behind the plane and reduce the midair collisions, at least in theory. Cotton string will break more readily in a tangle, where something like nylon will cause much more damage to a plane that gets tangled up in it.

I also suggest taking a puller with you to the field when you fly so you can pull the hub off of the engine in case you get string wound up in it. It's a quick fix, but only if you have the tool with you. Don't ask me how I know.

BNC
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