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Old Jan 21, 2010, 10:37 AM
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Essex England
Joined May 2005
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I am still waiting for the arrival of plan and magazine but have had a few more thoughts about building the model.
I have a good supply of balsa and ply but plan to buy any new materials from an excellent local supplier: Balsa Cabin at Maldon, Essex. They used to do an excellent aliphatic glue which I found to be superb with any kind of wood. Is aliphatic still the glue of choice these days?
The last time I did any covering was with lightweight tissue on a Wakefield and some Litespan on a small powered free-flighter.
What material would be recommended for the Watts Up wing and tail feathers?
I also need to make a new building board. I used to make them from half-inch chipboard, braced with a framework of 2x1 pine and with a top surface from 5/8in Sundeala board (very handy for taking pins). Are there any modern alternatives?

cheers

VF
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 11:41 AM
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[QUOTE=Vintageflyer;14130015]I am still waiting for the arrival of plan and magazine but have had a few more thoughts about building the model.
I have a good supply of balsa and ply but plan to buy any new materials from an excellent local supplier: Balsa Cabin at Maldon, Essex. They used to do an excellent aliphatic glue which I found to be superb with any kind of wood. Is aliphatic still the glue of choice these days?
Yes we are a bit spoilt having Balsa Cabin on our doorstep, can't imagine not selecting my balsa when buying it. The only other supplier who gives a good choice is Flitehook, who goes to the FF rallys, or you can order by post.
Glues are a personal choice, I use several in construction but mainly Zap thin & the thick one Zappo I think, Hypress white glue is very good & epoxy glues for high strength areas such as wing tubes Motor mounts etc.Even Balsa Cement has its uses in gluing the 1/16" strips between the ribs on the front trailing edge.
I personally have never got on well with aliphatic glues, finding them brittle after a time, with joints failing.


The last time I did any covering was with lightweight tissue on a Wakefield and some Litespan on a small powered free-flighter.
What material would be recommended for the Watts Up wing and tail feathers?
Plastic film in the form of Profilm, is the easiest to use, being not to critical on heat, plus you can remove it from the airframe, without it leaving the adhesive behind on the airrame in a coloured mess, like a lot of other films. It is not cheap but saves a lot of frustration.The translucent colours are also lighter having less pigment in the colouring/adhesive. They do a varient called Prolite, but the difference in weight not worth bothering with for your usage.

I also need to make a new building board. I used to make them from half-inch chipboard, braced with a framework of 2x1 pine and with a top surface from 5/8in Sundeala board (very handy for taking pins). Are there any modern alternatives?
The board you used to use will be OK, but I preferred blockboard as you could stick pins into that easier than chipboard, plus it seemed less prone to warping due to how it was made. I was lucky enough to aquire a drawing board with linear motion that has doubled as a drawing board and building board. I have another in the garage as a spare, that came my way when a company I was working for at the time, through them out when CAD came in some 25+ years ago. Had 10 of them that rapidly dissappeared to friends when they sore them. I had never looked at a DB before in detail, until a friend pointed out to me that the cross battens can be slackened off & the board trued up to take out any warping. So if you can find one they are the thing to get, as the wood is deal so pins go in easily.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 03:16 PM
Richard
Staffordshire
Joined Dec 2009
10 Posts
Alternative servos

Quote:
Originally Posted by Essex BOF View Post
Try the SD100 servo for the rudder/elevator, as I have used them & found them very good & being 9mm deep fit in easily.
For the spoiler, I have found that the Hyperion DS09 looks to be the best bet as it has 140 degrees total travel, which will be of use in getting as much throw on the blade as it is possible to obtain.

You can of course use these on the rudder/elevator & they do a metal gear version as well.

Avoid Graupner 1081's as I used them originally, but the gear train is very weak & strips easily.
Found these here only 8mm wide

http://www.allelectricrc.co.uk/blue-...rvo-1249-p.asp

but don't know if any good.

Look as if will be ok for rud/elevator but with limited travel may be no good for spoiler?

Regards

Richard
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 02:34 AM
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Essex England
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Brian

Thanks for your guidance.

Do you use white glue or slow Zap for the bulk of your wing building? I had planned to use aliphatic and epoxy at high-strength points but would be happy to try newer adhesives such as those you recommend.

I have never had any trouble with aliphatic glue with completed models in the past but noticed recently that some joints on a half-completed (lost interest) and uncovered Hepcat fuselage had become brittle and failed. But I put that down to the extremes of temperature in the loft.

The plan and magazine have arrived so I'll soon be starting my shopping list for wood and glues from Balsa Cabin but I am still torn over the wood pack from Traplet. Can anyone advise on the quality of the timber used in the pack?
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 02:57 AM
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Essex England
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Looks like I'll be buying more than just wood and glues from Balsa Cabin. I checked out their website a couple of weeks ago and looked only at the timber section. But closer examination of the site this morning revealed that they have greatly extended their range since I was last there. There is a wide choice of adhesives, a huge range of covering materials, including Profilm, and virtually everything I need to build a Watts Up, except the electronics.
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadra21 View Post
Found these here only 8mm wide

http://www.allelectricrc.co.uk/blue-...rvo-1249-p.asp

but don't know if any good.

Look as if will be ok for rud/elevator but with limited travel may be no good for spoiler?

Regards

Richard
Look a bit low on torque & movement, more suited to foamies & park flyers.

Try this site as it give a wide selection & I have used them with good results

http://www.servoshop.co.uk/index.php...ange+of+Servos
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintageflyer View Post
Brian

Thanks for your guidance.

Do you use white glue or slow Zap for the bulk of your wing building? I had planned to use aliphatic and epoxy at high-strength points but would be happy to try newer adhesives such as those you recommend.

I have never had any trouble with aliphatic glue with completed models in the past but noticed recently that some joints on a half-completed (lost interest) and uncovered Hepcat fuselage had become brittle and failed. But I put that down to the extremes of temperature in the loft.

The plan and magazine have arrived so I'll soon be starting my shopping list for wood and glues from Balsa Cabin but I am still torn over the wood pack from Traplet. Can anyone advise on the quality of the timber used in the pack?
I use Zap for everything except high strength joints & top wing sheeting, where I use Evostick Impact & epoxy for the former or white glue if there is no composite materials used i.e metal/carbon etc
The Zap accelerator is useful for some applications as well.
Oh yes, I still use balsa cement(shows my age) for certain things like wing tip blocks & the 1/16th infill between the ribs onto the trailing edge, as it is easier to sand when shaping the TE

Regarding the wood pack, I have only seen one where thegeneral quality was good, but the lite ply sides were a bit cooked on the edges from laser cutting.

One problem you will have is that Traplett have not printed the wing rib profiles as supplied by me on the plan
So unless you have a plotting programme, you will be left with the sandwich method, which is OK for the centre section as they are parallel ribs, but the tips taper might prove to be a bit severe for this method
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 12:54 PM
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Essex England
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Brian

"One problem you will have is that Traplett have not printed the wing rib profiles as supplied by me on the plan
So unless you have a plotting programme, you will be left with the sandwich method, which is OK for the centre section as they are parallel ribs, but the tips taper might prove to be a bit severe for this method"

Not sure what you mean by the above. What is a plotting programme and why would a sandwich method be used if all ribs are ready laser-cut?
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintageflyer View Post
Brian

"One problem you will have is that Traplett have not printed the wing rib profiles as supplied by me on the plan
So unless you have a plotting programme, you will be left with the sandwich method, which is OK for the centre section as they are parallel ribs, but the tips taper might prove to be a bit severe for this method"

Not sure what you mean by the above. What is a plotting programme and why would a sandwich method be used if all ribs are ready laser-cut?
I only added this as you said you were unsure of buying the wood pack, because if you do not have it there are no profiles shown on the plan of individual ribs, except the root & tip ribs of the tapered panels. Therefore you would need to use the sandwich method to produce a set of tapered ribs. This will result in the edges of the ribs having an angle on them, which is inmy view detrimental.

A rib plotting program can be had from the internet, free in a lot of cases for a trial version, Profili is one that comes to mind. I use Tracfoil which can be puchased 7 & is very good. This will allow you to plot each rib, by feeding in the chord of the wing for the rib you wish to plot, plus the spar, sheeting etc.
You can then print them out & cut round the profile after pasting onto the wood. See earlier post.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 04:26 AM
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Sunny Sarfend on Sea. UK
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"One problem you will have is that Traplett have not printed the wing rib profiles as supplied by me on the plan"

The cynic in me thinks this may be to "encourage" one to buy the wood pack.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 08:03 AM
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Essex England
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Brian
Thanks for the guidance. I have now decided to buy the wood pack, but only to ensure I can get the plane flying as quickly as possible.

RSTMG:Put me down as duly "encouraged"!
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 09:00 AM
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Joined Jan 2010
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Carbon Fibre

I am underway building the Watts Up and notice there is use of Carbon Fibre in several places and despite trying I don't seem to be able to find a source. There are companies supplying Carbon in its various forms but they all supply in industrial quantities.

Does anyone have a good source for cloth, sheet, rod and tube in modeling quantities?
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 09:34 AM
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Essex England
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I plan to get most of my carbon materials from freeflightsupplies in Norfolk

http://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/

Have a look at huge range listed under High-Tech Materials

Another place in the UK for rod and tube is

Woolmer Forest Composites

http://www.woolmer.co.uk/

There are bound to be others but I have used these suppliers in the past and have found that their mail order services are very good.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 11:20 AM
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Carbon Fibre

Hi Vintage,

Thanks for the help, checked the sites, just what I was after.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 01:30 PM
Richard
Staffordshire
Joined Dec 2009
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Wood pack

[QUOTE=Essex BOF;14145853]
Regarding the wood pack, I have only seen one where thegeneral quality was good, but the lite ply sides were a bit cooked on the edges from laser cutting.

/QUOTE]

Vintageflyer

Would concur with Essex BOF. Have purchased the wood pack from Traplett. As in earlier threads back to modelling after a 35 year break and it seems that the wood cut quality is far better than I remember the "old" die punched kits I had used to build was. As far as I can see to date all that is required is balsa sheeting for wing, the wing LE&TE's, tailplane ribs and the odd filler strip and spruce for the spars and fuse.

Regards

Richard.
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