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Old Feb 09, 2013, 04:28 AM
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Razor Saw.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 01:41 PM
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I have completed the build of the fast wing except for the ailerons and flaps. I have to shape these from solid balsa wood. I could not buy any 10mm here only a piece of 12mm. Therefore there will be lots of sanding. My good wood plane is at home so it's going to take time. This week the weather forecast is not good so flying will be out. My flying mate Dennis is going home in 3 weeks and wants to see the fast wing fly so I have get finished ASAP. Looking for a project for next winter so if you have any ideas please let me know. I would prefer an e-glider.
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 12:48 PM
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The fast wing should be finished in a couple of days and then we will have a maiden flight weather permitting. As you can see you need sun glasses to shield you from the glare of the colour scheme. I had one meter of each colour and I did not want to buy anymore. For those of you interested in costs the original Watts Up has cost approx 150 to 175 pds stlg. It would be cheaper if you cut the wood yourself rather than buy the wood pack. The electrics would be extra and depends on your preference. I have splashed the cash on Hyperion DS09 AMD servo's. BA suggested these were the best for the model. I intend to compete in the league so they will be well used. I have enjoyed building it and it has kept me occupied for the winter. What's next I ask.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 04:25 AM
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Looks good Michael, will be interested to hear how you get on with it, over the other version. It will be a lot faster and will not hang so well as it needs to move about the sky. Yours is the first one other than mine to fly I think.
It is fully aerobatic and goes well on the slope. I have flown it in 25MPH winds with no ballast, using negative flap & ailerons to penetrate then neutral to soar, positive being used when thermal flying.
One thing I noticed is that you have not used a 9 pin PC plug for the servo connection from the wing. I used this on the original to cut down on the wires that have to be lost somewhere.
I use an 8 channel Rx, so as I can get all the channels for both types, just by plugging in the appropriate connector to the wing being used. That Is one lead going to the spoiler servo, for the original wing, then a 9 pin PC connector for the aileron/flap wing.
Happy flying
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 10:32 AM
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I thought about a 9PC connector and bought one. However I have struggled with soldering them. I do have a very good soldering station. When you get a minute perhaps you could produce a line drawing of the electrics so that I can study. I am using a Futaba R617RS RX 7 channel and 8 Channel Radio. The Watts Up Fast Wing is finished but the weather forecast for the next week is not good. It's very windy. I will only maiden in reasonable conditions just to get a feel of it. I will get a local Formula 1 logo supplier to do a logo for mine and yours. He is quite happy to do them for my models and it's a nominal sum of money. A few pounds. The next blog will be a picture of the finished e-glider. Get your sun glasses ready
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 12:02 PM
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My 2 metre Watts up wing is nearly built as well. At the moment I'm making lots of balsa dust shaping the ailerons and flaps. After that it's covering and final servo/linkage installation.
I'm undecided yet on flap and aileron hinges, I'm thinking either tape or film, unless anyone has a better suggestion?
Michael, your 2m wing looks good, you are ahead of me. Hopefully you will get to fly it son. Good luck.
Phil
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 02:06 PM
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Cover with Profile using the film to form the hinge on the side required.

Cover the sides opposite the hinge side. Then cover the angled faces of the surfaces of wing and aileron/flaps, so as they are joined together, to act as they would.
Now cover the opposite surface in one piece, so as the flap/aileron are joined to give a hinge, where the adhesive surfaces are welded together.

You can experiment with some scrap balsa sheet, to form a hinge in this way.I
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 02:13 PM
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Phil. I am using diamond clear tape for hinges on flaps and ailerons. I am not saying this is the best way, it's just what I decided to do from experience. When fitting the servo linkages follow the measurements on the drawing. It should come out about right. There is always a bit of fiddling as you know. The way the windy weather is at the moment a flight is unlikely in the forseable future. You may well beat me too it. I will post a picture as soon as possible. I will see you in the Bartletts League April 7th
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 03:30 PM
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Ok, thanks for your replies, I'm going for the film hinge. I have used tape before but on smaller lighter models.
Another thought, the plan shows aileron and flap pushrods on top of the wing. I'm planning on putting the flap pushrod on the underide. My reasoning for this is it's easier to pull a surface rather than push and the flaps will be going down not up. The ailerons will spend most of their time going up so I will put the linkage on the top a shown on the plan. I think this makes sense?
Phil.
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Last edited by Phil_P; Feb 26, 2013 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Re phrase
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil_P View Post
Ok, thanks for your replies, I'm going for the film hinge. I have used tape before but on smaller lighter models.
Another thought, the plan shows aileron and flap pushrods on top of the wing. I'm planning on putting the flap pushrod on the underide. My reasoning for this is it's easier to pull a surface rather than push and the flaps will be going down not up. The ailerons will spend most of their time going up so I will put the linkage on the top a shown on the plan. I think this makes sense?
Phil.
The main disadvantage of having the horns on the bottom of the wing for the flaps, is there is a strong likelyhood of straining the gear train if the flaps are knocked on landing. This is because the flaps will be forcing the gear train, due to the assymetry of the actuating rod line up. In the way shown, the servo arm will lay pretty much in line with the drive rod, with the flaps down, so that the flap being forced up on landing, will act in line with the arm through the drive spindle.
Virtually all the moulded models use this method now, for the reasons explaned.

I would always advise flyers to raise the flaps on ALL models when landing as a precaution, to aleviate damge to flap servos & mountings.
As you rightly say the ailerons are not a problem.

In regards to Michaels query on the wiring of the 9 pin PC plugs I will try and do a layout when I get a moment. It is fiddly to do I will agree. Requres small soldering iron and head magnifyer is useful.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 12:34 PM
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The main disadvantage of having the horns on the bottom of the wing for the flaps, is there is a strong likelyhood of straining the gear train if the flaps are knocked on landing. This is because the flaps will be forcing the gear train, due to the assymetry of the actuating rod line up. In the way shown, the servo arm will lay pretty much in line with the drive rod, with the flaps down, so that the flap being forced up on landing, will act in line with the arm through the drive spindle.
Virtually all the moulded models use this method now, for the reasons explaned.
That makes sense, I can see now the reason for putting the pushrods on top. Not too late to change my flap setup.

How much movment do you suggest for flap/ailerons as a starting point?

Thank you. Phil.
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil_P View Post
That makes sense, I can see now the reason for putting the pushrods on top. Not too late to change my flap setup.

How much movment do you suggest for flap/ailerons as a starting point?

Thank you. Phil.
A starting point would be 15-20 degrees up on the ailerons and a 1/3rd of that for down aileron, flaps can be mixed in if you want to approx 1/3rd of the aileron movement either way.
Spoiler flaps approx 70-80 degrees down and 10-15 up aileron for the spoiler
plus DOWN elevator, to stop rearing up when crow applied, this can be adjusted to suit try 8-10degrees to start with.

Remember that this is no floater and needs to move around the sky and is at its best in wind, but will go with lift even on light conditions, using flap, oh yes flaps & aileron set to 3mm down for thermal and 2 mm up for speed.
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 10:15 AM
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These are the pictures as promised. I weighed this model with a pair of kitchen scales and it was 1.45 kgs approx. WU will be lighter. I am in the process of testing and number of problems have arose. WU has 4 RX connections and WUAF has 7 connections and they do not corresspond to each other. The way I will overcome this by marking WU with white tape and WUAF with red tape. I nearly had a run in with the propellar which has since been removed. The center of the two wings is not the same measurement as it should be so a mod to the cockpit cover is required. I bought some fibreglass horns which on receipt were a bit lightweight. They were and one pulled out the aileron. I am going to make my own from paxoline which I have here. This is what testing is about as it is much better it fails on the ground than in competition or in the air. We will get there. I have made a note of Brians BA settings. The weather is closing in so a test flight is not planned yet.
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Essex BOF View Post
A starting point would be 15-20 degrees up on the ailerons and a 1/3rd of that for down aileron, flaps can be mixed in if you want to approx 1/3rd of the aileron movement either way.
Spoiler flaps approx 70-80 degrees down and 10-15 up aileron for the spoiler
plus DOWN elevator, to stop rearing up when crow applied, this can be adjusted to suit try 8-10degrees to start with.

Remember that this is no floater and needs to move around the sky and is at its best in wind, but will go with lift even on light conditions, using flap, oh yes flaps & aileron set to 3mm down for thermal and 2 mm up for speed.
Thanks BOF

Phil.
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 02:58 PM
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Michael, your fast wing looks good I like the red and yellow covering. You say your weather is closing in It lools like the temperature might crawl into double figure here next week in sunny England!
Good luck with the maiden flight when ever that maybe. I'm certain it will be long before I maiden my Watts Up 2m fast wing.
Phil.
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