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Old Jan 13, 2013, 11:44 AM
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Ft. Wayne, IN. USA
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Originally Posted by Essex BOF View Post
I have a spare that is very similar but not a Middy which is approx 5cm longer than what the plan shows and weighs in at 50grams, not that disimilar too what you quoted in a previous post.I think it is fibre glass not carbon, but then I do not think the Middy is carbon for the price being charged.
Thanks for the info! With that, I can now pass along to people that live in the States that want to build this great looking electric sailplane, that they can purchase B'n'M's "Black Widow" 16.5' cane pole from Bass Pro Shops. This fishing pole has a section in it that is very, very close to what we need. The small end does go down to 17.5mm, but I don't think this will be a problem with the small digital servos we have now. As said before, this section weights 54gr., made of fiberglass/phonellic (sp), and I think I paid $26.00 for it.
If someone here in the States has come across something else that will work without breaking the bank on shipping, please chime in.
Now, to the building board!

Steve
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 06:43 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Lancs
Joined Jan 2013
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Fladen clipper pole

Just recieved my Fladen clipper pole this morning and can confirm dimenions,
2nd pole up from handle.

Total length 1.09m
Large diameter 20mm
Small diameter 16.2mm
Weight 70gm (ful length)

I could only find 4m rod on Amazon, but at 7.99 + free potage still a good buy.

Thanks EssexBOF for wing rib drawings (received 17th Jan)
Back to building now,
Cheers Dave.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 09:50 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
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I went to the local model shop in Chiclana to collect my ordered pine (pino) and it had not arrived. It was promised for the next day. Another journey which I did not fancy. I had a route around in their hard wood box and found some lime (tilo). It seemed strong enough so bought that. I am advised by BA that it is acceptable. You can see from the pictures manufacturing has started. You need to think the order or of work through. It will be a fully sheeted wing and you need to get the manufacturing into the right order or you are going to have a problem. I am currently thinking that I will finish the wing in Spain, but fit the servo's in the U.K. I think the wing will be finished in approximately a months time. I want to get as much flying in as possible so that takes preference. The weather has been a bit windy so no flying for 4 or 5 days, but it is warm. The U K is not the place to be at the moment with the cold, snow and ice.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 09:53 AM
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In the wing rib C1 there is a hole. What is that for BA?
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 11:34 AM
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In the wing rib C1 there is a hole. What is that for BA?
From memory, this is the exit hole for the servo extension leads from the flaps& ailerons, to connect to a socket, that connects the servos to the Rx. You can use the standard 9 pin computor male & female connectors or the Multiplex 6 pin connectors for this, as is used on the bigger moulded models. The leads fead through the straw tubes in wing and out through the cut out in C1.

As we spoke on the phone, this wing can be built direct onto the bottom wing skins and spar assembly, just use the plan to mark dimensions onto 1/16" sheet.

looking good Micheal, let us know how you get on, following the instructions on the plan. Be careful when planing the flaps & ailerons to section not to get to thin at the trailing edge, leave a lttle bit plus on these till sure where you are. If you do make a mistake you can let a bit of balsa in so all will not be lost. You need nice light 10 ounce cubic foot quarter grain 3/8" balsa sheet for these, that is approx 60 grams for a 3" wide X 3ft long piece.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 11:57 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
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With the WattsUp that has elevator and rudder control I have made a mistake with the dihedral of the wings. I read it as 4 degree but it is 8 degree. The drawing supplied by BA shows how it should be. It is a quite a problem to resolve this. I could ignore it but I am one of those people who if they know of a mistake will always think about it. I did not want to rip the wing apart so I decide to drill out the spigots on the tips and reset. It has turned out better than expected I am glad to say. Unless you know of the modification you would not know. Dihedral is a very important design aspect and should be as the designers calculations. There is a explanation of dihedral on the internet.

The fast wing is coming along nicely and the dihedral is correct.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 12:11 PM
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The center panel of fast wing is nearly ready to put the top sheets on. There are several small items to finish off. Then I will get on to the tips.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 08:30 AM
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For those of you following this thread you know that the dihedral was 4 degree, this was a mistake. I have altered to 8 degrees as the design. I went test flying today and it was a different glider. Turning was very smooth and level and pleasure to fly. I also played with the CG and I think it is correct. I took some weight out of the nose which seems to have improved things. I gave the glider a dive test and it showed a little nose heavy. There are many factors which can alter the CG so I will leave alone for now. When flying from a beach thermals are in short supply so I was only getting 5 minutes with each flight. When I get a pic of the 8 degree glider I will publish.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:23 AM
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Hello friends
could you please tell me where I could buy or download the plan Watt UP?
sorry for the English, but I write with the help of google translator.
thank you
hugs
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:11 AM
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Hello friends
could you please tell me where I could buy or download the plan Watt UP?
sorry for the English, but I write with the help of google translator.
thank you
hugs
PM me
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 11:31 AM
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The center panel of the fast wing is finished except for some holes that need filling. I need a very fine filler. I am working on a bench which is a piece of board and any small objects mark the wing. It's a problem. When I cover the wing hopefully very small indentations will not show through. I will start on the tips on Wednesday as I am going to Gibralter tomorrow. It's very windy at the moment with no let up predicted, so flying is out and building is in. The problem I have with the tips is the webbing has to be tapered. I going to try and do it with a laser saw. If not they will not be tapered but stronger. I got my 42mm spinner from the U K and that has helped keeeping the sand out the motor. I am also taking the spinner off after each flight and cleaning. That has helped I am sure.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 03:46 PM
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Coming together well now Michael. A tip on dents that I have used for some time now, is rather than fill them in, inject water through a hyperdermic syringe into the dented area, This will swell out to the original shape. Works well on dents in plastic covererd wings as well inject though the film leave or iron over for it toreturn to original shape.

Foam webbing is easy to taper off. Run knife along edge of spars after sliding between them, before glueing in position.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 03:24 AM
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It's the lime spars that are going to be the problem.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 12:32 PM
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We are suffering a lot of sun but also a lot of wind so flying is out at this time. Sunday looks a possibility. The port tip is nearly finished. I just have to shape the tip and do a bit of filling and that's finished. I will then get on with the starboard tip. Cuttung the spars with a razor saw was not a problem at all. It's looking quite good at the moment. When installing the tip spigot I fitted the 1.2 mm ply on one side and then filled with balsa. To finish off I filled with hot glue. It seemed to work very well. The spigot is not coming loose that's for sure. I have decided to get the aileron and flap servo's when I get home at the end of March. Doesn't time fly. I am going to the model shop next week to get the covering. I have decided on dark red on the underneath and yellow on the top. It will match the rest of the model.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CONNELLMJ View Post
We are suffering a lot of sun but also a lot of wind so flying is out at this time. Sunday looks a possibility. The port tip is nearly finished. I just have to shape the tip and do a bit of filling and that's finished. I will then get on with the starboard tip. Cuttung the spars with a laser saw was not a problem at all. It's looking quite good at the moment. When installing the tip spigot I fitted the 1.2 mm ply on one side and then filled with balsa. To finish off I filled with hot glue. It seemed to work very well. The spigot is not coming loose that's for sure. I have decided to get the aileron and flap servo's when I get home at the end of March. Doesn't time fly. I am going to the model shop next week to get the covering. I have decided on dark red on the underneath and yellow on the top. It will match the rest of the model.
What is a laser saw Michael? Interested as to what it looks like.
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