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Old Oct 30, 2012, 11:35 AM
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St. Neots, England
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Om looking forward to start the build! Ordered the short kit 2years ago...but i missed the magazine article, does anyone have the article? It would be a great help!
Hi Svenn

I do have the article, somewhere. If I can find it I can let you have a copy. I trust you have the plan?

Good luck with the build, it's a great model.

Phil.
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 04:12 AM
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At the end of the season in the Bartletts League, my Watts Up 2 Metre variant came top in 2 Metre Class and would have been placed 5th overall in the Open Class against all the glass ships. In the first event it placed 1st overall. Scores frrom all the events flown :-
1000, 899, 0, 878, 826, 984, 0 , 4587, 3761

Final score in blue for best 4 from total 5 events flown. The 0 are for events where I did not fly in. Has been flying 4 years now bit battered but unbowed. Not bad for a model that does not look right, according to some and is cheap to make.
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 03:33 PM
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Joined Nov 2012
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Originally Posted by Svennrotor View Post
Hi!
Om looking forward to start the build! Ordered the short kit 2years ago...but i missed the magazine article, does anyone have the article? It would be a great help!

Best regards from Svenn, Norway
Hvis du ikke får svar fra han andre, så har jeg artikkelen liggende her i Tønsberg...

Regards,
PerJ
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil_P View Post
Hi Svenn

I do have the article, somewhere. If I can find it I can let you have a copy. I trust you have the plan?

Good luck with the build, it's a great model.

Phil.
I did get a copy from the designer, and have started the build! But thanks anyway!

Best regards from Svenn
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:04 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
Joined Aug 2011
117 Posts
WattsUp build

I am a keen modeler who in the past has concentrated on building model yachts. Some years ago I became interested in model aircraft and concentrated on power gliders. It seemed easier than launching with a winch. I have a Radian PRO, Easy Glider PRO, RCM Pelican Pike, Hawk, and a 3.6 Pulsar. I Have taken part in a number of F5J competitions with no success so far. I would like a competitive glider which I could build myself. I live in the United Kingdon but I am fortunate enough to winter in Spain. I do not like cold weather and neither do my hands. Raynard's Syndrome. I asked around and the choice was limited but standing out was WattsUp, designed by Brian Austin. Brian competes in the Bartletts league which he runs I believe. I spoke to him and he pointed me to Traplet's magazine. I bought the drawing first of all just to get an idea of what is required. I have never built a model aircraft. I have repaired mine on too many occasions. Some months after receiving the drawing and decided this would be a good winter project. Start in November 2012 and finish end of March 2013. I did a material takeoff so that I could make up a complete kit. I used many of the suppliers recommended in Brians write up which is still available. I intend to follow the drawing exactly. The motor will different buts that because I had one. I will be using the glider in F5J next year in the 2 meter class. I have 2.5M and 4M class gliders. I am impressed with the quality of materials purchased. The balsa is excellent. I also bought the wood pack from Traplets with the laser cut parts. I thought as it is a first time it make sense to make it as easy as possible.

I started construction on 16 Nov 2016. I followed Brian's suggestion and started with the elevator (stub). My first impression is that it is very strong. This is a glider that will stand up to competition. In a day the wind can be calm and 20mph in the afternoon. The laser cut parts on the stub do not match the drawing exactly. You can see on the pics the difference. What is consider a margin of error. What is an acceptable tolerance. +/- 5 micron or +/- 1/16" . I have no idea.

I have laid the drawing on a board I brought with me and covered with cellophane so as not to stick to the drawing. It seems to have worked O.K. The laser parts have to cleaned as they they are burnt. I am using Cyno to joint the balsa which I think is better that PVA. All parts have to fit first time. There is no time for mistakes.

I fitted the servo into the boom at home as I could use a stand drill. The servo is a DS09 AMD. This is a hyperion servo with metal gears. If the stub fails you loose the glider it's that simple. The rudder is next.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 09:45 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
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We have had a thunderstorm in Conil and the yawning got a little wet. Drawing and instructions a bit damp. The stub and elevator have been covered with oralite. IMHO covering is a matter of practice. There are training instructions on the internet. The fin was more difficult than expected. Several different angles but I got there in the end. I intend to fix the fin with a 3mm stainless screw so the fin can be removed any time. This is in case a servo needs changing and for transport. This was BA suggestion. I have cut the slot in the fuse for the fin post. The tricky bit is a hole to fix the fin post at 90 angle.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:47 AM
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It is best to cut the slot for the fin first, then use that as a datum for mounting the tail plane. When all the tail plane & fin have been fitted as required the boom assembly can be aligned on the board using a couple of scrap balsa pieces to hold the tail plane square and parallel to the board, to glue the assembly into the front fuselage that is flat on the board on it's base.

Someone has modified this so as the boom is secured with an M6 nylon bolt so as it can be transported in a small package the length of the centre wing panel, if taking abroad.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 07:18 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
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I intend to permanently fix the fin to the boom. I have covered the fin and rudder. The next job will be the tail plane mount. It's a bit damp where we are so I have to arrange materials and working conditions to suit.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 08:55 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
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The pylon has been manufactured using my own method. I cut the two verticals and then two horizontals and then glued them together. This saved the problem of cutting out the server hole. The server is a tight fit so I did a practice removing the server in case of failure. It proved not to be a problem. I am impressed by the thought that has gone into the design. The detail using carbon sheet and aluminium lining the fixing holes is IMHO very effective. I removed the covering from the boom as I thought it was a poor finish and would not last over time. I will prime and paint black. I have glued the pylon to the boom and held it in position with the plastic bolts. One bolt got some glue on it and was a problem to remove. When I removed it I cleaned the thread with a tap. The bolt has been replaced. I hinged the fin post a rudder which has created a gap more than I would have liked. I assume it will not effective performance. The fin has been fixed to the boom.

Tomrrow I will be starting on the Pod. I am quite impressed with the Traplets wood kit so far. Everything seems to be there.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 03:24 AM
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Some of you following this link, may beinterested in this:-

http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php/...tml#msg1105591
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 12:12 PM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
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I started on the pod fuse today. I thought it would quite easy but it is not as straight forward as you might think. The longerons have to be bent to shape. This was achieved with a saucepan of hot water making steam. I brought am MVVS inrunner motor with me from a previous glider. It's a very good motor with back connections for the ESC. I did a trial fit and it was a bit tight. Some adjustments to the longerons were necessary. Nothing drastic at this stage but when complete it would have been a real problem. I can also remove the motor if need be. The last thing I did before packing up for the day was to laminate the centre section which holds the wing. Trying to shape each carbon piece on it's own would not have worked. I will get a mask tomorrow and then finish with my Dremel. Do not workd with carbon without a mask. The fuse should be complete in the next week. I have brought some fibre glass with me so I can line the outside with 50 gram matt before painting. The pod will be orange or red with a black boom.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 10:14 AM
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The laminated wing fixing plate was completed today and turned out as it should. It is very tough and when fixed will not pull out. Probably the most important job is fixing the boom to the pod. It has to be exactly positioned otherwise the glider will not fly as designed. This a difficult job as I was trying to position with zero tolerance. In the end I got as close as I could. I think it's a good job. I did remember to place the shrink wrap on the boom. I did remove all the paint on the boom as it was flaking and would look a mess. I intend to paint the boom and pod. The pod orange and boom black. I will have to work around the shrink wrap. I cut two pieces of wood at 55m as the drawing and placed under the tail plane. I is difficult to hold in position without any stress on the parts. The glued pod and boom will be strapped down over night and probably for 24 hours. I have to finish the pod with some filling required and then paint. This will take several days.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 10:18 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
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I covered the pod with fiber glass matt today. It's a messy job but it seems to have come out to a good standard. I will leave to cure for as long as possible. The next job is start on the center section of the wing.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CONNELLMJ View Post
I covered the pod with fiber glass matt today. It's a messy job but it seems to have come out to a good standard. I will leave to cure for as long as possible. The next job is start on the center section of the wing.
Have you shaped the fuselage to round it off around the corners, nose and where it meets the boom? as it would need to be done before fibreglasiing it. The photo shows it as being still very boxy.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:30 AM
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United Kingdom, Hythe
Joined Aug 2011
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Fuse

I have rounded as far as I think is safe without going through fuse wall. I think it looks better than the photographs. I filed through the fire wall and corner of fuse. I had to repair. I cannot put bigger longerons on as the motor will not fit. I am happy with the outcome. It would not be difficult to take more off as I could patch the fibreglass. It's very light matt.
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