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Old Jul 12, 2010, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Thermal Rider View Post
This is the link to the one I used http://www.cheshirefishing.co.uk/shop/middypoles.htm
which is the 4 metre mddi pole priced at 12.99 here in UK. Use the second joint up from base.
Pretty sure this is available world wide as it is to cheap to be made here.

Hi Brian

FYI: The Middy Impact poles are made by Middy Tackle International in Heanor, Derbyshire, UK (www.middytackle.com). They do not sell direct to the public, though.

Cheers
Well that is surprising as they are so cheap I did not think they could be made over here

I remembered after i wrote the reply to Dave, that one of the guys in our club purchased one or two rod blanks from the Cash Converters chain in Maldon, Essex for 5
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 06:20 AM
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Hi Brian

I now have the fin, rudder, tailplane and wing panels built, ready for sanding.

One part of the build I have been looking at is the 1/8 x 1/4 fuselage nose longeron and wondered how you achieved the curve, as spruce is difficult to bend.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermal Rider View Post
Hi Brian

I now have the fin, rudder, tailplane and wing panels built, ready for sanding.

One part of the build I have been looking at is the 1/8 x 1/4 fuselage nose longeron and wondered how you achieved the curve, as spruce is difficult to bend.
The secret to bending spruce & balsa for that matter, if it is difficult, is to soak it in household ammonia. This can be obtained from hardware stores, old fashioned one's preferably. Care is needed on not getting it, in contact with the skin, as it can cause irritation & use ventilation. Smells like the old swimming pools.
I usually place the wood in the container, so as the area needed to be bent is covered. Brushing on the ammonia will work as well, just make sure it has soaked in as much as possible. Leave for 15-20 minutes.
Place some clear film over plan. Bend to shape by pinning into position. Leave to dry overnight. Slight over bending helps, as it is easier to take that out rather than increase the curve if dry.
Should also mention that leaving an excess of wood, say 1-2 inches at the front of nose, as this makes it easier to form to shape, as this can be taken past where it finishes then trimmed to suit.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 03:26 PM
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You are truly a master of model making and design. Many thanks for this advice.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 04:49 AM
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You colud also make it from two laminations of 1/16x1/4 or 1/8sq (depending on the direction of the bend). This may be easier if you can't get ammonia and will be stronger due to the laminating effect.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 03:58 PM
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Yes, I had considered laminating two 1/8 strips, but was curious to learn Brian's method. I have sourced household ammonia at Boots for 1.75, so I shall try it.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 06:49 AM
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Help with ESC programming

I am having troubles trying to programme my Hyperion Atlas 60amp ESC with the IR unit. No matter what I do it does not seem to accept the commands, is there something beyond the instructions I need to know?

The instructions are very limited so maybe there is a "trick" I am missing, I hope.
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Old Jul 20, 2010, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by garry.matthews View Post
I am having troubles trying to programme my Hyperion Atlas 60amp ESC with the IR unit. No matter what I do it does not seem to accept the commands, is there something beyond the instructions I need to know?

The instructions are very limited so maybe there is a "trick" I am missing, I hope.
This may be blindingly obvious, but are you connecting the battery to it?

Have had a quick look at the instructions & it does not seem that different to others using a card for setting up, in that you plug the card/IR unit in with the ESC, then connect the power scource, to the ESC. This lights up the card, so as you can programme your settings.

Admit I have not used an Hyperion ESC, so could be wrong
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Old Jul 20, 2010, 12:02 PM
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Hi All

It's been a long time coming but my 3.1 Watt Up is now finished. As well as building the larger wing I've made it full house. Although the dihedral was reduced by half the model still turns on rudder only. Weight ready to fly is 1575 grams. I've used a Hacker A20 8XL and turns a Aero Naut 18x11 and draws 23 amps. I will try a larger prop in the near future.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 07:03 AM
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Programming Hyperion ESC

I think I have fixed it. Despite the fact the red LED was flashing the unit was not programming the ESC. In desperaration I changed the battery in the programmer and it worked. It appears the battery shipped with the unit must be either defective or dud. Anyway, all is well now.
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 11:19 AM
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I was talking to Gary mathews & Ray Gadene , at the Bartletts Farm Comp yesterday about the sensativity of the elevator on the Watts Up.
It is quite sensative depending on where the CG is.
I have flown all my versions on approx 50% rates on the elevator,particularly on the power run, as it will be more sensative then, due to the speed of the model. I only use the full throw when using the spoiler.

Thought this may be of use to current owners & future ones
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Old Jul 28, 2010, 02:35 PM
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Watts Up 2 Metre wins 2 metre class at Bartletts Comp 25th July & finishes 2nd overall in Open, see
http://www.esoaring.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=747
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Old Aug 26, 2010, 10:49 AM
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Hi Brian,
Just returned from Suffolk, and found the package you sent me. Thank you for
your help, at least I can see the way forward now. Have a good Nationals
yours
Ken Seymour
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 04:40 AM
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Having flown & been told that some people are having a problem with the power phase when flying the Watts Up, I will try to offer some pointers in controlling this phase.
If you had the Magazine article you will be aware that I pointed this out, in the article in the flying bit at the end.
Flyers who are new to electric gliders, find this the most difficult part to master, over past experiences with power or gliders.
The launch phase on a glider is controled by being attached to a line be it tow or winch & bungee. This prevents the model from using the excess speed on launch to loop over the launchers head, therefore disorienting him or her, at a crucial time. This can & invariably does lead to disasterous results, for the model, because so much is happening within a short time span.

Power models due to their set up of no incidence & symetrical sections, again are very much easier to fly, as they tend to stay where they are pointed when climbing.

When you power a glider, you are forcing it to fly outside of its comfort zone, as the speed increases, We have all seen that when you dive a glider, as it picks up speed releasing the down elevator, causes the model to zoom or climb. The faster the speed & the model will loop if the speed is high enough.
This is all due to the lift being generated by the wing.
As this usually is at some height, getting out of trouble, is easier, but not so with an electric glide when it has just been launched, but have seen people get into trouble when opening up a motor at height as well due to the orientation problem,

So you need to control this tendency by the use of down elevator applied with a preset, which I would suggest & strongly recommend. Some Tx's have a facility to programme in down elevator as the power is fed in, this is a good option as well. Manualy is the last option of course if you are happy doing this, with the experince to carry it out.

Virtually all the electric gliders I have flown have this need to be controlled in the power phase, due to the wing section, flying at a speed that forces it to lift more due to the increased speed.
The Watts Up is more prone to do this due to the light weight & there being no flaps/ailerons to alter the wing profile.

Best thing is to go out on a calm day or evening & start with about half power, to take the model up in a gentle climb, then slowly increase the power, to the stage where you are comfortable with the climb, being controllable. I tend to set it so as it is what I would term neutral, that is that the model will climb at about 30 degrees, but can be controlled to increase this or decrease by the flyer himself.
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Old Sep 28, 2010, 02:40 PM
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At long last I've made a start on my Watts Up! I've built the first stage of the centre panel and port inner tip panel. A couple of questions if somebody could help please. The vertical part of the spoiler box that is inset into the wing ribs, is this cut from 10mm x 2mm balsa? I cannnot find a reference to this on plan. The next part I'm unsure of, is there a brace between the two wing tip panels?

Thanks

Phil.
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