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Old Sep 10, 2009, 07:56 AM
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Lincolnshire, UK
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Watts UP! - electric 100" soarer build thread

Thought I would document the build of my new electric model here as I have not seen it mentioned yet.

It is a 100" electric soarer called 'Watts Up!" and it was a plan feature in the September 2009 Radio Control Model World magazine in the UK. The model was designed and developed by Brian Austin.

The plan number is MW3398 and the Laser cut wood pack is WP3398, available from Traplet publications Ltd.

I've attached some pictures of the prototype model which I received from Brian Austin when I was pestering him for the latest progress on the design.

I will post an update soon.
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Old Sep 10, 2009, 09:03 AM
NextIraqTrip->TakeGlider
United States, CA
Joined Aug 2006
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Looks like a nice bird. I'll be watching this. Especially knowing that there is a lasercut kit for it too!
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Old Sep 10, 2009, 08:44 PM
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Mcminnville, Or USA
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I would also like to hear more about this plane.
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 05:57 AM
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Puyallup, WA
Joined Nov 2001
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Great looking model. Would be a nice addition to any hangar.
Any details to whats under the cowling for power and drive???
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 07:14 AM
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Lincolnshire, UK
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Hi, Just an update, got the rear surfaces built, just need sanding and some localised CF putting in place. Wing is also 1/2 built. Managed this in 4 hours using PVA glue :-)
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkrerpilot
Great looking model. Would be a nice addition to any hangar.
Any details to whats under teh cowling for power and drive???
Hi

The proto used a Mega 22/20/30E but could also use the Multiplex BL480 3G or AXI 2217 all on 2 or 3 cell LIPO.

I'm going for a Jeti Phasor 45/3 with a 12x6 cam prop on 2 or 3 cell LIPO.
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 08:22 AM
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Thanks for the info. Will be watching this thread with interest. Keep the pictures coming.
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 03:08 PM
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As there seems some interest in this model, perhaps as the creator I can provide a bit more detail.
The main idea behind it was to create a model to compete or sport fly, that would not cost a fortune to build, whilst using materials that are readily available.
It can be built very much as you would want to make it, being easily modified to take flaps & ailerons if you wanted to upgrade it from the basic model published.
I have included a photo of the extended wing version, which uses the same centre section but has extended wing tips that plug in. This was done for calm days/evening flying.
Wing section is MH32, which I find to be a good all rounder.
Some pics of spoiler operation & servo installation at rear. I know it resembles the Bubble Dancer/Ava at the rear, but there is not much you can do with a boom and pod at front, but at least it is more robust than the previous mention designs & more easily assembled by the average modeller.
The rudder although looking quite small is quite effective, contary to all the pundits of doom.
If anyone requires additional info please feel free to contact me.

See post No474 for links on the site as an aid to building from SBS
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Last edited by Essex BOF; Jan 30, 2014 at 04:55 AM. Reason: update
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Old Oct 08, 2009, 02:51 PM
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Hello Essex BOF, have just received my woodpack and plan from Traplet and am hoping to start building soon.
I have two queries after perusing the plan.
One - I am not sure how to gain access to the rear wing bolt, is there an open area in the bottom of the fuselage that I am missing?
Two - the photo of the wing build in the article in RC Model World shows that you are using a strip of wood to support the back of the ribs, Is this 1/16th and deeper than a couple of layers of breakfast cereal box?
Thanks
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Old Oct 08, 2009, 03:12 PM
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Essex BOF - please ignore my query number One - I realised how the wing fixes down the moment I pressed 'submit reply'!

However, I have just a question about the wingseat area. It is intended to provide a small under camber by propping up the front of the trailing edge. The section thru' the fuse' actually shows the rear edge of the trailing edge to be flat and in line with the flat bottom of the ribs and very slightly above the wingseat/keel piece. Is this what you intended?
Should I sand the trailing edge flat for the width of the fuse' so that it sits down firmly on the wingseat, or leave this section under-cambered like the rest of the wing? I prefer the first choice although strictly it very slightly increases the wing incidence.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leslie_A
Essex BOF - please ignore my query number One - I realised how the wing fixes down the moment I pressed 'submit reply'!

However, I have just a question about the wingseat area. It is intended to provide a small under camber by propping up the front of the trailing edge. The section thru' the fuse' actually shows the rear edge of the trailing edge to be flat and in line with the flat bottom of the ribs and very slightly above the wingseat/keel piece. Is this what you intended?
Should I sand the trailing edge flat for the width of the fuse' so that it sits down firmly on the wingseat, or leave this section under-cambered like the rest of the wing? I prefer the first choice although strictly it very slightly increases the wing incidence.
I sand the wing seat on the fuselage to match the wing lower section. The actual undercamber is so slight as to not show up that well on the plan, as it does from the plot of the wing section reproduced using Tracfoil

Pack up the trailing edge with ONE thickness of cerial packet, equates to approx .5mm in thickness.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 06:57 AM
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Lincolnshire, UK
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Sorry for the lack of action on this thread, been busy at work. I have the wing together and am working on the fuz at the moment.

I will post some pics later

Simon V
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 09:50 AM
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Thanks Essex BOF - will do just that.
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Essex BOF
I sand the wing seat on the fuselage to match the wing lower section. The actual undercamber is so slight as to not show up that well on the plan, as it does from the plot of the wing section reproduced using Tracfoil

Pack up the trailing edge with ONE thickness of cerial packet, equates to approx .5mm in thickness.
I read the instructions again last night & saw that it failed to mention to attach Cellotape or similar to the cardboard to stop wing sticking to it
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 05:43 AM
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Hi Essex BOF, nice looking model. I haven't read the RCMW so this might be addressed in the article - It used to be considered necessary to position spoilers outboard of the tail span but I've noticed one or two modern gliders with them inboard as the Watts Up. Have you experienced any lack of elevator control or "funny" effects when the spoilers are deployed ?
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