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Old Sep 05, 2009, 09:07 AM
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outngo's Avatar
South Carolina
Joined May 2009
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Cularis ESC getting HOT! Need Help.

Cularis ESC getting warm-hot when I just move servos around with tx after 5-10 minutes.

-I have Cheap Suppo 60amp w/no bec
-U-BEC
-hs-65hb and hs-56mg for ails and flaps - hs-82mg for rud and ele.
-Axi 2820/10
-11x6 prop
-11.1v 2100mah 3s
I should only be pulling 40-45 amps

So why so hot on the esc just by moving servos around? Motor on the other hand is not hot even after running awhile doesn't even get warm.

anyone have any experience with the suppo 60's? It does have a built in heatsink but i don't think it should get that hot UNDER the heatsink, well maybe i dunno..

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Last edited by outngo; Sep 05, 2009 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 10:12 AM
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Challenger 413's Avatar
Dickinson, Tx.
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outngo
I should only be pulling 40-45 amps
Should and actual are two different things, do yourself a favor and actually check the amps at full throttle.

Also, you should be providing cooling airflow over/around the ESC...

Challenger413
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 11:40 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
The Netherlands, GE, Nijmegen
Joined Feb 2001
10,790 Posts
Methods for better controller cooling:
www.mgm-compro.com
-> tech. info
-> controller cooling (Acrobat pdf file)

About de-rating controllers and motors, starting at 'for everyone else':
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post11476940
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 06:22 PM
E-Gliders
outngo's Avatar
South Carolina
Joined May 2009
1,305 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Challenger 413
Should and actual are two different things, do yourself a favor and actually check the amps at full throttle.

Also, you should be providing cooling airflow over/around the ESC...

Challenger413
43 amps.. You didn't read .. It's not getting hot from the motor running..(motor temp stays nice and cool) ESC is only getting hot when moving the servos around for 5-10minutes..

Is there any ESC fans I can stick on it?
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 06:28 PM
E-Gliders
outngo's Avatar
South Carolina
Joined May 2009
1,305 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron van Sommeren

About de-rating controllers and motors, starting at 'for everyone else':
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post11476940
Thx but doesn't help I'm not running the motor here, just moving servos around.
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 09:31 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,997 Posts
You have an ESC that has no BEC power supply right? In that case the red center wire is normally missing from or has to be removed from the ESC's BEC connector. The BEC connector is still needed for the throttle signal even though it is not powering the receiver.

Is that the setup you have?

If so, using the receiver and servos has nothing at all to do with the heat buildup in the ESC. Those are all drawing their power from the UBEC, not the ESC.

It sounds almost as if you have a bad ESC or short in the motor or something. Is the motor working normally when you use it?

It has nothing to do with the heat buildup in the ESC but what is the rating of your UBEC? If you add up the maximum current draw for all of your servos you can tell if you are drawing too much current from the UBEC.

Jack
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 10:22 AM
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Challenger 413's Avatar
Dickinson, Tx.
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outngo
43 amps.. You didn't read .. It's not getting hot from the motor running..(motor temp stays nice and cool) ESC is only getting hot when moving the servos around for 5-10minutes..

Is there any ESC fans I can stick on it?
Sorry, the only part I see, is where you say,,,,
Quote:
I should only be pulling 40-45 amps
.

Still, the ESC needs cooling airflow, is there any? Can you open up the side where the ESC is, so the fins get a bit of airflow?

Also, the UBEC needs cooling airflow too. I believe it is rated for 3 amps. You are using HS-82MG's for the rudder and elevator, 65's for the airlerons, 56's for the flaps would be (6) servos. Is that correct? Even though the UBEC is a switcher, it would benefit from cooling also...

Try running a small fan over it and the ESC and test your servos, see if the ESC gets hot...

Challenger413
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 04:31 PM
E-Gliders
outngo's Avatar
South Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes
You have an ESC that has no BEC power supply right? In that case the red center wire is normally missing from or has to be removed from the ESC's BEC connector. The BEC connector is still needed for the throttle signal even though it is not powering the receiver.

Is that the setup you have?

If so, using the receiver and servos has nothing at all to do with the heat buildup in the ESC. Those are all drawing their power from the UBEC, not the ESC.

The ESC has no bec at all, Just in case i removed the red wire anyways from the middle lead, the ubec is hooked onto that as per directions. correct. The heat is coming from under the supp 60amp esc where the connections are soldered to esc. The two in and 3 out. But hotter where the 2 red and black are soldered on bottom(from battery). Maybe it's normal and just needs a fan or something yes I think a esc fan would work good here. Where can i buy one? Or just something to take the heat away from the bottom. Mounting the esc on outside of cularis would require tons of work for me for direct airflow etc. Plus the plane itself has 2 giant intakes and 1 outtake in the cockpit anyways.
Or maybe should get a thunderbird 54 or something, with red pin pulled out of course.
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Last edited by outngo; Sep 06, 2009 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 07:28 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,997 Posts
It is not normal at all for the leads from the battery to the ESC to get hot where they attach to the ESC. Especially so in your situation where you are not running the motor.

Your UBEC should be connected to the battery in parallel with the ESC. Is that you you have it connected?

And what size wire are you using for the leads from the battery?

I use the male to female battery jumper "Y" cable seen in the photo between the battery and the ESC when I use a UBEC. The UBEC is connected to the small red JST connector.

My ESC's all have BEC's so I also have to make sure that the red wire from the ESC's BEC connector is cut or removed with I use the UBEC.

I've never used those Suppo ESC's but I would think that they should not be getting hot like yours is. It just sounds like something is not right here.

The heat sink on that should be located on top of the field of MOSFETs that provide the current to the three motor leads. If that heat sink I working right I would expect it to get warm in use, maybe even a little on the hot side when you use it at or near it maximum rating.

The other side of the ESC from the heat sink and the cables from the battery should not be getting more than warm to the touch.

Maybe someone else here has some experience with the Suppo ESC's like that and can chime it with their experiences with them.

Jack
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Old Sep 06, 2009, 09:58 PM
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outngo's Avatar
South Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes

Your UBEC should be connected to the battery in parallel with the ESC. Is that you you have it connected?

Jack

12g wire. Correct it is ran in parallel. It must be the ESC then. I'm getting another in this case anyways. Probably a tbird 54.
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Last edited by outngo; Sep 06, 2009 at 10:12 PM.
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Old Sep 07, 2009, 04:12 AM
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vintage1's Avatar
East Anglia, UK
Joined Sep 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outngo
The ESC has no bec at all, Just in case i removed the red wire anyways from the middle lead, the ubec is hooked onto that as per directions. correct. The heat is coming from under the supp 60amp esc where the connections are soldered to esc. The two in and 3 out. But hotter where the 2 red and black are soldered on bottom(from battery). Maybe it's normal and just needs a fan or something
It doesn't sound normal.

Try it and try and measure the current with no receiver and no motor attached. To get warm it must be pulling half an amp at least ..it shouldn't do that. My horrible suspicion is that some bored chinese lady has soldered one of the power input electrolytic capacitors on backwards..and its leaking and fit to bust its case.
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Old Sep 10, 2009, 09:31 PM
E-Gliders
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South Carolina
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Oh well. Thunderbird 54 ESC ordered.. Found one for $42 brand new! no shipping charge
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Old Sep 11, 2009, 09:28 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,997 Posts
I have one of those and it is a wonderful ESC. If you do not need all the complexity and settings needed for reversible cars and helicopters the Thunderbird series ESC's are great.

And if you can find a deal on the Castle Link USB programmer, I recommend you get that too. You'll find you have better control over the programmable settings for things like the LVC. And you can reload and upgrade your firmware with the free download from Castle Creations.

The Castle Creations warranties are a no hassle deal and great, even the out of warranty repairs are a good deal.

All the money you save on cheap ESC's is consistent with all the things you do not get for your money.

Jack
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Old Sep 12, 2009, 06:01 PM
E-Gliders
outngo's Avatar
South Carolina
Joined May 2009
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I placed my order and it came in 2 days! I looked at old escs internals and think that it just might get that hot, because the design looks good inside of it, and I have a suppo 30 on the easystar and it works great but yes, just may be a bum esc. But the tbird 54 came in the mail supper fast. Never had I had something arrive that fast shipped ground, The thunder bird 54 is great! Took out the old esc hooked up new one, pulled out red pin and hooked up battery leads to UBEC, tried servos for 15min even when motor is running not even warm.. Nice Stuff. Thx to all for confirming it was esc.
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