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Old Oct 11, 2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggles51 View Post
Cheers Hoppy,
Thanks for the data on the Turnigy set up. Could well be how I end up with the Cessna.
Look at www.bungymania.com lots of very technical reviews from French electric flyer crew (make sure you hit the English translation)
What they identified was that the standard PNP set up is not that bad, even though
all the tech stuff pointed to a mismatch in the motor set up, it was more that the 20C discharge rate on the supplied battery was exceeded on WOT.
( I am still catching up on all this tech stuff)
Hopefully some better weather coming up at end of the week. I am going to take a punt on the Yak with the standard donk with smaller 12 x 6 prop. Looked to have sufficient
thrust and cool running on the bench. Have a Mini pulse and a Greens Super Dimona 2400
but like the foamies as well.
Sorry to talk about the "dark side" but also have a Diamond 2500 and a 2m Minimoa to get sorted. I like the power thing first up but then love to fly the glider as the morning heats up and we get some breeze.
Also our field was cored last week and before they could get it "swept up" and sanded it started raining . the place is a real mess, can only get in and out of the carpark with small stuff but think we can get the gliders landing Ok.
Where do you fly in Brisvegas.
My mate looks like he will be a while getting his Yak up.... lots of builds in front of it.
He has his Eflite Duece twin to go again after a very interesting engine coming off the
mount on take off and a couple biplanes , I think one is a Python.
Cheers Tony
Actually my motor is a G&C by FMS, not Turnigy, although I do have a couple of turnigy motors but I've never flown with them. Wouldnt mind knowing which is the better motor...

Pretty much any cheapie Chinese born plane I regard them as airframe only, so motor/esc/servos are swapped out before maiden. I've had too many problems in the past with super cheap and nasty Chinese electronics.

No such thing as a "dark side" lol, if it flies, it's heaven
Actually, I would LOVE to see your Dimona- I'd like to think one day I'll either end up with a Dimona or Fox... the only reason I havent yet is coz I want to see how happy I'll be with the Cularis first.

Check out my blog, from gliders to edf's to 1930's Sparrowhawk.
I have a 2600mm Cularis glider I am yet to build, but waiting on dragon gear to turn up, then she'll be purpose built FPV.
I have an ASW28 2000mm glider, but she's had a couple of spills, needs a replacement prop... I'll give her away to a good home if you know anyone who wants a freebie... between work demands & already too many projects, I have to start parting with the unused

I will fly at Tingalpa TMAC, but mostly I like to go for a drive and fly from out of the way places. Once I get my fpv going properly I'll be doing regular road trips, fly well away from civilization.

The Cessna was a cheap impulse buy, but has turned out to be a very relaxing & enjoyable plane to fly, more than happy with it. I bought very cheap as runout of the 1st version, but I am well aware of the weaknesses, have swapped out the plastic motor mount for ply etc etc.
And.... just for the novelty factor, i'd like to try fpv off water in the C-185
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 09:02 PM
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Thanks for the reply, ausie. I got to the field today and had several take-offs and landings with no wheel issues. In the end, the flying day was over when the motor fell off the mount. No harm done, floated her in, except a little cowl foam is lost in the grass somewhere. Guess I should have used lock-tite. I'm learning. Good thing is the ESC held the motor from dislodging, so I have something to work with.
Len
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Old Oct 11, 2010, 09:24 PM
what goes up, must come down..
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Originally Posted by green_mtn_boy View Post
Thanks for the reply, ausie. I got to the field today and had several take-offs and landings with no wheel issues. In the end, the flying day was over when the motor fell off the mount. No harm done, floated her in, except a little cowl foam is lost in the grass somewhere. Guess I should have used lock-tite. I'm learning. Good thing is the ESC held the motor from dislodging, so I have something to work with.
Len
Such a joy to fly, aint they?
Glad to hear your land gear's sorted

Dislodged motor?

I certainly dont want to insult your intellegence, but here's my lil' 0.02 cents worth...

Nyloc nuts are our friend!
Failing nylocs, use 2 nuts on each bolt so you can tighten them up against each other- aka lock nuts.
Where possible put a flat washer under nuts.
Desperation measures when none of the above are available on short notice, nor locktite, a drop of clear nail polish laquer on the thread also works.
Personally I dont like to use locktite on small machine screws/bolts, too easy to have them snap when trying to undo them... and in the nature of rc, they will need to be removed at some point!

Personally I use nyloc nuts everywhere I can, vibration proof.
I used to race 1/5th scale tarmac car racing, never once did I have a nyloc work loose... a lot of other issues, so totally not driver ability related... stories for another day on another forum...
Use all the precautions you can... right down to small cable ties or clear plastic tube slid over the control surface push rod clevises... I've had 2 planes go down in the past from something so simple and easily overlooked...
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 09:19 AM
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I knew at the time I bolted it on that it looked iffy. The model only came with two screws for the engine mount, so I assembled it that way. And yes, for that, you can insult my inteligence. It needs insulting.
thanks, Len
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 10:26 AM
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Did you cut holes for air cooling?

Hi all,
I see that the styrofoam cowl has some holes that could take in cooling air, but I don't see any holes for air to exit?
I have to cut air-exit holes somewhere right?
Planning to use cable ties to secure the ESC within the wooden motor mount.
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 04:13 PM
what goes up, must come down..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green_mtn_boy View Post
I knew at the time I bolted it on that it looked iffy. The model only came with two screws for the engine mount, so I assembled it that way. And yes, for that, you can insult my inteligence. It needs insulting.
thanks, Len
no-one needs insulting lol... just degrees of learning

On hindsight I've asked some pretty out there questions ...
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 04:17 PM
what goes up, must come down..
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Originally Posted by kaon View Post
Hi all,
I see that the styrofoam cowl has some holes that could take in cooling air, but I don't see any holes for air to exit?
I have to cut air-exit holes somewhere right?
Planning to use cable ties to secure the ESC within the wooden motor mount.
I have the first version (came with the useless plastic engine mount, now wood)
mine has holes behind the prop for air entry, and a semi circular hole underneath the cowl, seems to be adequate cooling.
I cable tied my esc to the inside of the engine mount, after over 15 mins running, motor and esc are barely even warm
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Old Oct 13, 2010, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AussieHoppy View Post
I have the first version (came with the useless plastic engine mount, now wood)
mine has holes behind the prop for air entry, and a semi circular hole underneath the cowl, seems to be adequate cooling.
I cable tied my esc to the inside of the engine mount, after over 15 mins running, motor and esc are barely even warm
My cowl has the same 2 rectangular "nostrils", and the semicircular hole underneath.
These might be sufficient for the motor and ESC... but I expect there will not be much air flow to cool the lipo pack...
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Old Oct 14, 2010, 04:47 AM
what goes up, must come down..
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Originally Posted by kaon View Post
My cowl has the same 2 rectangular "nostrils", and the semicircular hole underneath.
These might be sufficient for the motor and ESC... but I expect there will not be much air flow to cool the lipo pack...
depends on what your motor setup and your flying style is, I guess...
I mean if you are trying to push this plane faster than it is capable, or trying to turn it into an aerobatics effort, or use it as a glider tow plane, then yes, for sure you'll be wanting to get better cooling

on my above mentioned setup 4S 2450mah 11 x 7 prop, scale flying I get greater than 15 mins flying, and motor/ esc/ batt are all barely warm.
but I do fly this plane scale like, mostly half ~ 2/3 throttle... and I dont use a spinner
I fly planes designed for speed, fast- I fly scale planes at scale speeds

If you are concerned though, perhaps make a vent hole in the rear underside access hatch, so the air can travel through the entire plane
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Old Oct 14, 2010, 11:55 AM
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blade-cowl clearance?

Sorry about the basic questions, it's my first front-prop plane...
What do you think of the blade-prop clearance?
If it should be bigger, I could look for washers.




For cooling the batt, I have cut a 15mm dia hole in the center of the larger hatch.

Have put everything in and buttoned up the wings for the first time.
Floats attached, water rudder done.
All stock servos seem OK.
CG is at roughly 60-65mm from the leading edge.

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Old Oct 14, 2010, 04:23 PM
what goes up, must come down..
AussieHoppy's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaon View Post
Sorry about the basic questions, it's my first front-prop plane...
What do you think of the blade-prop clearance?
If it should be bigger, I could look for washers.




For cooling the batt, I have cut a 15mm dia hole in the center of the larger hatch.

Have put everything in and buttoned up the wings for the first time.
Floats attached, water rudder done.
All stock servos seem OK.
CG is at roughly 60-65mm from the leading edge.

hi kaon
I'd think your clearence should be ok, these props flex a bit, but pulling the plane forward wil flex away from the cowl
I've never flown my plane without a little bit of tape on the 2 underside hatched, i'm not sure if the magnets are strong enough
make sure you double check all control surfaces are going in the correct direction standing behind the plane, then triple check
double check everything is tight and functioning, wheel axles, prop nut, clevises snapped home and retainers fitted
I keep my maiden flight brief, long enough to trim, get a feel for flight, quick play then bring back in & go over everything, make sure all is good, and nothing is hot.
65mm cg is fine on mine
go and enjoy!
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Old Oct 14, 2010, 09:33 PM
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Kaon:
Based on my experience, add the other two motor mount screws.
Len
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Old Oct 15, 2010, 02:08 AM
what goes up, must come down..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green_mtn_boy View Post
Kaon:
Based on my experience, add the other two motor mount screws.
Len
+1 I agree 100%, losing a motor is not a good thing
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Old Oct 15, 2010, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by AussieHoppy View Post
+1 I agree 100%, losing a motor is not a good thing
Ah, could not understand Len's post at first.
My motor came mounted on the motor mount with 4 (philips head) screws. I don't have a suitable tool to check tightness, given the space constraints, but it seems secure.
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Old Oct 15, 2010, 09:31 AM
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My friend just got this model.

A few warnings. Do not buy this from either bananahobby.com or easytigermodel.com . Between the 2 companies, it took over 2 months to get this plane. Still missing the flap kit and extra props that were already paid for from easytigermodel.com . They both have terrible service and I don't understand how they are still in business.

Do not run this on the stock 4S setup. The motor gets real hot quickly. The ESC and/or motor will eventually fail. After a total of 3 flights, maybe 4 minutes each, the ESC failed and resulted in a crash. The battery/prop selection is just not right.

The recommended CG in the user manual is off. Like others have said, 60-65mm is better.

My friend is now running it off a 40A Eflite ESC, 3S 3300mah and a 11-5.5APC prop. Way better now and still has plenty of power.
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