|Aug 29, 2009, 02:52 AM|
C-05/AP-03 micro motor soldering tips?
Anyone care to share their know-how about this subject? Specifically- how the heck do we work w/ those darn tiny hair fine wires sprouting magically from one heat shrink tube? I've read that they're supposed to be insulated with some kind of clear silicone but it goes against my electrical instincts to trust it.... I just had a C-05 wire "burn" away after a few flights. Wondering if it was because I had the ESC timing set on high instead of medium for its initial test, or a possible short in that insulation (noticed everything heating up and motor started glitching..shut it down right away...but that one wire looked sorta dark. Separated the wires more and changed timing. Ran really good for about 8 flights. Way more cool than my first C-05- I made a custom mount w/ good airflow.)
It's getting expensive...my original stock C-05 (in a kit-bashed depron rebuild Techone mini-yak) got so hot it melted (due to a poorly designed airflowless mounting)...a Hextronik/LCD 5 gram I tried had it's can start spinning independently of the shaft (how do I fix THAT?)...now this. I'm going to try to splice/solder in a piece of similar fine wire but it's gonna be hard. I have an Ap-03 4000kv 2S waiting as a backup but...yup you guessed it.... 3 hair fine wire mode. At least I can see where the ends have been nicely tinned at the end and the wires look coppery and coated back to the motor. I want to gather tips and tricks before I destroy this one too heheh.
I'm getting hooked on this dang micro stuff but it's sooo delicate eh? Incidently, I highly recommend rebuilding the EPP micro planes (Raptor, Techone Yak etc.) using 3mil Depron/cellpro...very precise flying...just don't crash (too much)!
And I didn't know if I shoulda put this thread here or in the motor section....I figure all the micro guys would see it faster here.
|Aug 29, 2009, 03:08 AM|
One thing I have noticed about the CO5 wire is that it is very brittle. Once you solder on your connector you need to put heatshrink over that and overlap it over the heatshrink of the output wires to hold it all together. Too much wobbling and the wires break.
The fact that all your motors are getting so hot sounds like you are over propping them. Use smaller props or bigger motors.
|Aug 29, 2009, 04:36 AM|
I just want to add that using high timing on the esc with these motors is a bad idea. I run all of mine on low or normal timing.
|Aug 29, 2009, 05:25 PM|
Yes, thank you both...good advice. I successfully got the motor spliced and running-doesn't look very pretty but hey it works! Poetic justice...my work had an old Weller iron that didn't work good anymore...in a fit I hucked it against our concrete shop floor and there inside the guts- a wind of perfectly sized coated hairfine wire to use lol!
I'm running a GWS 4.5X3 on Hyperion 2S 25C 120 mah. Motor doesn't heat up much now...since I made the new mount w/ big airholes. I think it's critical for the C-05 to have optimal venting.
|Apr 04, 2010, 01:45 PM|
Happy Easter Bud Man Bud!
Let me share a few soldering techniques with ya.
* Liquid solder flux. Makes a huge difference.
* A quality solder station like my Hakko 936
* A few different tip sizes, especially for this micro RC stuff.
* Solder hot! Get in, get out, done. Be quick about it.
Most of my soldering is done around 850°
* Use thin dia. rosin core solder. I use Radio Shack (64-013) 62/36/2 Silver Bearing Solder. (.022 dia.)
* Always pre-tin your parts before soldering together. Get a little extra solder on these micro wires. Also a little extra solder on the iron tip. One wire on top of the other and then just a quick touch with the tip. Liquid electrical tape is an excellent way to cover the joint when the wire is this small.
* Last but not least... Never solder in pink!
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