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Old Aug 28, 2009, 06:06 AM
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***OFFICIAL*** Gee Bee R3 Build Thread

I would like to start an Official GEE BEE R3 build thread. I just picked one up from Hobby-Lobby, they were having it on closeout sale for 269.99. I had been eyeing it for quite some time and finally gave it and bought one from EspritModel the previous week for 399.99 so I'm returning it. Here's the link for anyone interested, they have 27 left according to the inventory indicator as of this writing.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/geebee_r3.htm


Once I get it, I'm going to be posting pictures and build of my new plane in this thread. Hope you all will enjoy it. Cheers.
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Old Aug 28, 2009, 05:42 PM
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Phoenix, AZ
Joined Nov 2006
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appflyer,

Mines on the way but I won't be able to build right away, I've got a GWS C-47 and a 3DHS Vyper ahead of it. I will be reading your build thread very intently
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Old Aug 28, 2009, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by FD Pilot
appflyer,

Mines on the way but I won't be able to build right away, I've got a GWS C-47 and a 3DHS Vyper ahead of it. I will be reading your build thread very intently
What kind of motor/esc/battery are you going to put in yours? I'm still deciding on what to choose. The AXI 4130/16 that HL recommends is a bit too pricy for my budget. Do you have any recommendations?
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Old Aug 29, 2009, 09:58 PM
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Lester, Al
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Being a die hard Gee Bee flier i wish you guys the best of luck on this one.

Mostly signing in to see how this baby flies when you are done.
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Old Aug 30, 2009, 02:06 PM
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gb3 fantasy racer

Hi there, Ive had mine a while now, since they first came out. Its a beautiful flier and very stable. On my set up its moderatly fast because i'm keeping the weight to a minimum (I missed off over 1lb in weight of thoes metal wires and fittings, flying wires) in order to allow a VORTEX large brushless 730 rpv(British ) motor to swing a 15x6 wooden (old style wide blade prop) on 2 packs of 8 cells 3300 HiNidride, (18volt). I dont stunt it apart from rolls and its easy on take offs but landings, every one in 3 or 4 is a nose over (slides along on the prop nut , not the cowl). Can't go to 4S LIPOS because it would then be tail heavy unless they were VERY large capacity to be just as heavy. I love it and its a pussy cat, Robin Andrew/UK
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Old Aug 30, 2009, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by robin andrew
Hi there, Ive had mine a while now, since they first came out. Its a beautiful flier and very stable. On my set up its modertly fast because i'm keeping the weight to a minimum (I missed off over 1lb in weight of thoes metal wires and fittings, flying wires) in order to allow a VORTEX large brushless 730 rpv(British ) motor to swing a 15x6 wooden (old style wide blade prop) on 2 packs of 8 cells 3300 HiNidride. I dont stunt it apart from rolls and its easy on take offs but landings, but every one in 3 or 4 is a nose over (slides along on the prop nut , not the cowl). I love it and its a pussy cat, Robin Andrew/UK
Yay, we're already having more people participate. If you don't mind my asking, how long does your Gee Bee fly? What ESC and Voltage do you use on your batteries?

Am I out of my mind for thinking that it's possible to get around 30 mins out of this plane in the air? Perhaps adding in around 12,000maH 19.8 A123 batteries?

Oh, and of course!~ I would love to see some pictures of your GEE BEE!!
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Old Aug 30, 2009, 08:08 PM
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Gb 3

Yes its possible to go to quite large LIPOS which would improve upon my flying time of around 6-7 mins with saftey. My ESC is a SCHULTS (GERMAN 77amp) although my motor is only drawing 45amps and I use a small rx battery of 480ma. Note because I use a slow large Wooden propellor, I use a little right thrust on the motor to offset the extra torque. I carry the prop inside the fuselarge to the fling field. Note the angle of the tailwheel to stop it scraping the runway and an extra bit of wire to keep it in step with the rudder, and of course a lady pilot. The ESC can be seen set the same place as shown on the promotional video of the kit, and the heavy flight batteries fit as far forward as they will go up to the bulkhead, side by side, inside their thick balsa supports, and VELCRO straps,Robin Andrew/UK
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 02:18 AM
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Is it just me or is the motor that is mounted to the firewall supposed to be off center? I have pictures that prove it and before I drilled holes in anything I wanted to make sure that it was right...hence the tape. Andrew, your seems the same way but it's to the left? Mine is to the right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by robin andrew
Yes its possible to go to quite large LIPOS which would improve upon my flying time of around 6-7 mins with saftey. My ESC is a SCHULTS (GERMAN 77amp) although my motor is only drawing 45amps and I use a small rx battery of 480ma. Note because I use a slow large Wooden propellor, I use a little right thrust on the motor to offset the extra torque. I carry the prop inside the fuselarge to the fling field. Note the angle of the tailwheel to stop it scraping the runway and an extra bit of wire to keep it in step with the rudder, and of course a lady pilot. The ESC can be seen set the same place as shown on the promotional video of the kit, and the heavy flight batteries fit as far forward as they will go up to the bulkhead, side by side, Robin Andrew/UK
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 03:25 AM
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Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
Joined Sep 2007
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App,
It is normal to have the motor mount offset to the left (and usually higher) on the firewall so that when the motor is mounted with 2 or 3 degrees of right and down thrust this will result in the motor's propeller driver being nicely centred in the middle of the cowl.

BTW: I got all excited when you posted this model was on special as I have been eyeing it off for some time! I quickly came back to earth when the postage calculator on the Hobby Lobby site indicated a cost of either $216 or $262 depending method!!!

Oh well, I don't really need another model.......

Good luck with it!

Cheers
Peter
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M
App,
It is normal to have the motor mount offset to the left (and usually higher) on the firewall so that when the motor is mounted with 2 or 3 degrees of right and down thrust this will result in the motor's propeller driver being nicely centred in the middle of the cowl.

BTW: I got all excited when you posted this model was on special as I have been eyeing it off for some time! I quickly came back to earth when the postage calculator on the Hobby Lobby site indicated a cost of either $216 or $262 depending method!!!

Oh well, I don't really need another model.......

Good luck with it!

Cheers
Peter
Thanks Peter. When you mean the motor mount offset to the left, do you mean whiel you are looking at the airplane nose first or the other way around. From the pictures, it seems that mine is to the right so that when the motor is mounted, it will no longer be centered. That just looks ugly doesn't it?
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 04:55 AM
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Just curious, whats the difference between an "official" thread and an "unofficial " thread? Who decides on the category?
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 07:05 PM
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Bump, anyone care to help me with the offset issue?

P.S. This is my first ever RC build and it's becoming both very interesting and of course CHALLENGING!
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 08:24 PM
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Plymouth, Devon
Joined May 2007
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The motor should be offset a few degrees to the right as you look from the back of the plane to the front in most planes,and most planes have about the same amount of downthust. This is to counteract the torque of the prop trying to pull the plane to the left, and to stop the nose balooning up on application of power.

As a side note, I really, really cannot stress enough that you should not attempt this as a first plane, let alnoe first rc project. a plane of this sort (heavy, powerful, low wing area, low winged, fast and agile) is not suited for a beginner, it's more of a fourth or fifth plane.

I hate to say it but if you try to take your first flight with this plane it'll be a very short and expensive lesson that you should get a high-wing trainer to start with and see where that gets you. Don't want to be a spoilsport, but would you strap someone who's never driven into a sports car and let them loose without even telling them which pedal does what?
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Old Sep 04, 2009, 02:55 AM
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Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
Joined Sep 2007
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App,
Don't panic!

Looking at the middle photo of Post No. 8 shows the motor mount being offset to the left by about 6mm or 1/4 inch and about the same amount towards the top of the fuselage centreline. This is normal and how it should be.

If you look closely at the ply motor mount, you should be able to notice that it is not parallel with the firewall of the fuselage. If you look from the left, the motor mount will be angled back at the bottom to give the motor down thrust when you bolt it on. If you look from the top, you should notice the mount is angled towards the right to, (you guessed it!) give the motor right thrust when you bolt it on.

By building in the 1/4 inch or thereabouts of offset to the left and towards the top ensures that the prop ends up nicely centred in the cowl when you look front on.

The actual amount of offset depends on the length of the motor and the amount of thrust angle required. The longer the motor or the greater the angle, the more offset required. If this offset wasn't built in, the prop would look like its sagging towards the bottom right hand side of the cowl - not good looking at all!

Hope this helps!
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Old Sep 05, 2009, 06:19 PM
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Ahh, thank you so much Peter. My plane's still sitting pending some much needed tools. i.e. prop reamer, some small drill bits etc...

Will update the post when more interesting stuff occurs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M
App,
Don't panic!

Looking at the middle photo of Post No. 8 shows the motor mount being offset to the left by about 6mm or 1/4 inch and about the same amount towards the top of the fuselage centreline. This is normal and how it should be.

If you look closely at the ply motor mount, you should be able to notice that it is not parallel with the firewall of the fuselage. If you look from the left, the motor mount will be angled back at the bottom to give the motor down thrust when you bolt it on. If you look from the top, you should notice the mount is angled towards the right to, (you guessed it!) give the motor right thrust when you bolt it on.

By building in the 1/4 inch or thereabouts of offset to the left and towards the top ensures that the prop ends up nicely centred in the cowl when you look front on.

The actual amount of offset depends on the length of the motor and the amount of thrust angle required. The longer the motor or the greater the angle, the more offset required. If this offset wasn't built in, the prop would look like its sagging towards the bottom right hand side of the cowl - not good looking at all!

Hope this helps!
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