I was setting up my IBEF tonight to get my 70 ready to maiden this Saturday and it's not working! The digital tach lights up no matter which way I flip the switch and the LED on the IBEF never lights up. I plugged in a LiPo IBEF and it works fine, but I'm not running a LiPo RX pack... Looks like it'll be another week before the slick gets in the air. I'm so frustrated...

Oh and my Optima 9 ate half the JR plug on my ED Chargeport switch!!!

Originally Posted by stickybeatz

I was setting up my IBEF tonight to get my 70 ready to maiden this Saturday and it's not working! The digital tach lights up no matter which way I flip the switch and the LED on the IBEF never lights up. I plugged in a LiPo IBEF and it works fine, but I'm not running a LiPo RX pack... Looks like it'll be another week before the slick gets in the air. I'm so frustrated...

sticky

my IBEF was bad as well

2 issues with mine

1) the LED wasnt working. This was simply because the LED is soldered in the wrong way. Only issue is i couldnt see on/off

2) mine was working but the ignition was cutting out every few seconds. Generally not enough to kill the engine but close

i called Bill Wike and finally he had me send it in. Mine should be back any day now

when i tested mine i simplu hooked up a multimeter to the output of the IBEF. You should have at least 5V. there is a pot that allows you to adjust the voltage. When you flip the switch on the radio off of course the voltage should go to 0

Originally Posted by starzen

sticky

my IBEF was bad as well

2 issues with mine

1) the LED wasnt working. This was simply because the LED is soldered in the wrong way. Only issue is i couldnt see on/off

2) mine was working but the ignition was cutting out every few seconds. Generally not enough to kill the engine but close

i called Bill Wike and finally he had me send it in. Mine should be back any day now

when i tested mine i simplu hooked up a multimeter to the output of the IBEF. You should have at least 5V. there is a pot that allows you to adjust the voltage. When you flip the switch on the radio off of course the voltage should go to 0

I don't have a multimeter to test mine with, but I had it hooked to the ignition with the digital tach plugged in. In theory, if the voltage went to zero when I flipped the switch, the tach should turn off, right?

Originally Posted by stickybeatz

I don't have a multimeter to test mine with, but I had it hooked to the ignition with the digital tach plugged in. In theory, if the voltage went to zero when I flipped the switch, the tach should turn off, right?

yes and no

i had thought something was wrong too as mine did the same thing

but i noticed that the voltage wasnt 5 but less and it kept changing too

then i had an aha moment. it was actually off but the capacitors still had energy stored.

So after you turn it off it can still run the ignition for a seconds or so. Without a load it can take a while for the voltage to go down.

if you have a harbor freight get a cheap multimeter when you turn it on it should go to 5V and stay there. When you turn it off it should slowly drift down to 0

Ok, I have a plan for rebuilding the sides of the fuse but I need a little help.

I was looking over DPHOYE's 70" slick prototype rebuild and he made a photocopy of the fuse side and used that to help recreate a template to replace it. That seemed like a really good idea to me but I don't have enough left to determine the exact shape.

I thought I could print out his picture of the finished template and then just scale it on the copy machine until I get it just the right size but then realized that if the camera was not exactly perpendicular to the piece then it won't be right.

Does anyone have a 70" slick with the covering removed from the sides that could scan it for me?

This was his post on that topic

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/report.php?p=12594327

Also, I'm open to any other suggestions.

Also, I need some dimensions for that former just aft of the motorbox kit as well if anyone has a way to get that

Craig

Craig Hypersprint was using a piece of paper and charcoal to do a "rubbing" like they do over tombstones etc to trace shapes of trim schemes. I wonder if the same idea would work for the side of a fuse without having to remove the covering? I'll try it on my 70 and see if I can come up with something workable for you. If so I can just mail it to you.

MLT

Thanks, Starzen. I'm gonna go pick one up tomorrow.

Got my engine mounted and the throttle servo and linkage set up. Man setting up a gasser is a PITA! Started messing around with my choke and can't really find a way to set it up without interfering with the throttle. I may just run a rod back into the fuse and set the choke on and off with the canopy off. I've never been a very good DIYer so I'm feeling way out of my element right now.

couple of quick questions...

1. When I put the cowl on, the prop hub is about 1/8" closer to the right side of the hole (looking at the front of the cowl) than the left. I took the motor off and pressed the drill guide back on the firewall to double check that my holes are correct and they are. Is this normal? I'm using 1" standoffs with 2 1/10" washers from PSP to mount the motor. I've got about 1/8" clearance between the spinner back plate and the cowl so I'm pretty sure I got the right length. Maybe it's play in my bolts and I just need to hold it centered when I'm mounting the engine? Any tips?

2. How tight should I screw in the spark plug?

3. Do I need to mount the A123 pack on foam? I built a battery tray that goes over where the pull-pull servo would normally go.

Thanks again for the help!

I find that the Ignition can last a couple of seconds longer after you've actually "cut" the ignition. So keep that in mind when you're trying to land / turn the engine off.

Here's a pic of the front of my cowl

Originally Posted by stickybeatz

Thanks, Starzen. I'm gonna go pick one up tomorrow.

Got my engine mounted and the throttle servo and linkage set up. Man setting up a gasser is a PITA! Started messing around with my choke and can't really find a way to set it up without interfering with the throttle. I may just run a rod back into the fuse and set the choke on and off with the canopy off. I've never been a very good DIYer so I'm feeling way out of my element right now.

couple of quick questions...

1. When I put the cowl on, the prop hub is about 1/8" closer to the right side of the hole (looking at the front of the cowl) than the left. I took the motor off and pressed the drill guide back on the firewall to double check that my holes are correct and they are. Is this normal? I'm using 1" standoffs with 2 1/10" washers from PSP to mount the motor. I've got about 1/8" clearance between the spinner back plate and the cowl so I'm pretty sure I got the right length. Maybe it's play in my bolts and I just need to hold it centered when I'm mounting the engine? Any tips?

2. How tight should I screw in the spark plug?

3. Do I need to mount the A123 pack on foam? I built a battery tray that goes over where the pull-pull servo would normally go.

Thanks again for the help!

as far as the choke is concerned do you have rear or side carb ?

the cowl is normal. the spakr plug not too tight. Good hand tight. I mounted my A123 packs on velcro only and a velcro strap

Originally Posted by cmala

Ok, I have a plan for rebuilding the sides of the fuse but I need a little help.

I was looking over DPHOYE's 70" slick prototype rebuild and he made a photocopy of the fuse side and used that to help recreate a template to replace it. That seemed like a really good idea to me but I don't have enough left to determine the exact shape.

I thought I could print out his picture of the finished template and then just scale it on the copy machine until I get it just the right size but then realized that if the camera was not exactly perpendicular to the piece then it won't be right.

Does anyone have a 70" slick with the covering removed from the sides that could scan it for me?

This was his post on that topic

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/report.php?p=12594327

Also, I'm open to any other suggestions.

Also, I need some dimensions for that former just aft of the motorbox kit as well if anyone has a way to get that

Craig

Isn't there enough of the right side to copy?

Rob

Originally Posted by starzen

as far as the choke is concerned do you have rear or side carb ?

the cowl is normal. the spakr plug not too tight. Good hand tight. I mounted my A123 packs on velcro only and a velcro strap

It's a rear carb

What timing is appropriate low or medium? (motrolfly 4325-380)

Thanks

Originally Posted by stickybeatz

It's a rear carb

Ben had a pic of a rear carb choke setup in the 72 sc thread...try searching that thread .."choke"