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Old Oct 14, 2012, 11:05 PM
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going4speed's Avatar
USA, TX, Spring
Joined Jan 2008
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Blocked vent line or clogged clunky would. Be my guess.

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Originally Posted by hertzrepkeith View Post
I got the tank from Aero Graphix about 3 weeks ago. I have about 1 gallon of fuel through it. I was going to call them in the morning. I would love to know why this is causing this to happen, because I don't see anything on the tank that looks adnormal, but puting a new tank on it completly fixed my problem.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 11:12 PM
3d NOOBular
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USA, UT, St George
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hertzrepkeith View Post
I got the tank from Aero Graphix about 3 weeks ago. I have about 1 gallon of fuel through it. I was going to call them in the morning. I would love to know why this is causing this to happen, because I don't see anything on the tank that looks adnormal, but puting a new tank on it completly fixed my problem.
Do you have your hoses clamped on to all connections? It could be that you have an air leak only when the plane is in a certain position. I had a problem like this and I can tell you I didn't much like the 20+ hours of repairs after it died exiting a low hover. I found out later that air was leaking in at an in-line filter connection that I had failed to clamp. If air gets into your fuel line it is the same effect as running out of gas.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 12:48 AM
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United States, CA, Hughson
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I am not saying that it is not my problem, but I do have every line double zip tied every line.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 09:13 AM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLING CIRCLE View Post
Any thoughts are appreciated guys. Here is the problem with this 70.
3100 Mah Life batt on receiver/servos

Run it up and shuts down but still able to run. Castle need reprogrammed, bigger Mah packs? These packs were used on the 51 Slick for a while as stand alone 4S but thought we could still use the same packs on the Y to run the 70. They balance charge up to 16.8 OK. Not sure but had some connectors just changed over to 150 amp connectors. Could leads on motor to the speed control be out of order and cause this. Doesn't make sense to me...
Program the ice 100 for a LVC or 4.0 volts (TOTAL, not per cell).

Then get some new packs. If that young man was giving it WOT, it sounded real weak.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 09:27 AM
Team 3DHS
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLING CIRCLE View Post
The batts are on deans. 150 amp connector in line making the Y right off the speed control with the two deans on the end there. I was wondering about the connectors causing the resistance but not sure since they are overweight for the job. I would think they would be OK. Maybe the Motrofly is pulling to hard for the ESC or the packs to keep up with???? let me know what you guys are thinking...
Dean connectors would not cause this kind of issue as many individuals, including myself, are using them with no issues. The easiest thing to do is to turn on logging on the esc and run the motor up once. Then download the logged data to see what is really going on. The logging will show you what your battery voltage is doing and if your batteries are dropping below lvc that quickly then they will not work for this setup. Setting the esc up for a lower voltage cutoff is only going to cover up the issue and not fix it.

What size packs are they? c rating?
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:18 AM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
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Originally Posted by joesmith285 View Post
Setting the esc up for a lower voltage cutoff is only going to cover up the issue and not fix it.
Joe, my advice to set the LVC that was is to avoid a LVC in the middle of a hover or something.

for the OP...once you get the feel of the plane you can tell if your pack is getting weak when you pull out or hit a WOT. I'd rather puff a pack instead of a total LVC and take a gear out or worse. I learned this the hard way on my first ice. Also mind your timer and MAH usage.

In my case on my first 70 I had some older packs and about 2 minutes in I went to pull out of a hover and hit LVC and lost the motor. Not cool about 60 feet up.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:22 AM
Santi
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United States, TN, Nashville
Joined Nov 2003
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I have an A5012L and want to grab a quick prop to fly tomorrow. I'm using an ice 75 esc and want to know how big I can go apc.. The shop has a 20x10 and a 19x10 apc. I typically prefer the 20x10 xoar.

Anyone have numbers for this?
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:55 AM
Team 3DHS
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United States, IN, Fort Wayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robj View Post
Joe, my advice to set the LVC that was is to avoid a LVC in the middle of a hover or something.

for the OP...once you get the feel of the plane you can tell if your pack is getting weak when you pull out or hit a WOT. I'd rather puff a pack instead of a total LVC and take a gear out or worse. I learned this the hard way on my first ice. Also mind your timer and MAH usage.

In my case on my first 70 I had some older packs and about 2 minutes in I went to pull out of a hover and hit LVC and lost the motor. Not cool about 60 feet up.
Imo, if you have lvc set to 3.0-3.2 volts per cell and use a timer, you shouldn't ever hit lvc. If you are hitting lvc then your packs are not able to handle the load you are asking them to so the voltage is dipping below 3.0-3.2 volts per cell and this is extremely hard on batteries. I have read where a lot of people set the LVC really low and I don't understand why other than to cover up using weak packs that can't hold the voltage. I set up a conservative timer, usually so I land with 20-25% left in the pack, this gives me some head room in case I fly a very aggressive flight, then I might land with 10-15% left. I have always setup lvc for around 3.2 volts per cell and soft cutoff and have never had an issue. If I ever hit lvc, then I know I am doing something wrong, using weak packs, damaging packs, flying too long, ect... And since it is soft cutoff, I would still be able to get out of a sticky situation.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 12:59 PM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
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Joe,

All lessons learned and I think I do everything on your list. Timer goes off. I land..period. /not sure exactly how a soft cutoff works. Just from flying I know how my "older" packs feel and if I need to come down early.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:22 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
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San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robj View Post
Joe,

All lessons learned and I think I do everything on your list. Timer goes off. I land..period. /not sure exactly how a soft cutoff works. Just from flying I know how my "older" packs feel and if I need to come down early.
Soft cutoff works by automatically reducing your throttle when you hit LVC so that you know to land. On Castle ESCs, if you hit LVC, and the throttle drops, you can lower your throttle to zero momentarily, and then raise it back up to give you higher throttle to land with.

SteveT
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:55 PM
Santi
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United States, TN, Nashville
Joined Nov 2003
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Check to make sure the esc is set to lipo, I had one set to nicad once and it would hit lvc very quickly. A simple reset fixed that for me.

Didn't read all the way back, but the symptoms sounded familiar.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 02:50 PM
TEAM TWISTED
ROLLING CIRCLE's Avatar
United States, MD, Middle River
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joesmith285 View Post
Dean connectors would not cause this kind of issue as many individuals, including myself, are using them with no issues. The easiest thing to do is to turn on logging on the esc and run the motor up once. Then download the logged data to see what is really going on. The logging will show you what your battery voltage is doing and if your batteries are dropping below lvc that quickly then they will not work for this setup. Setting the esc up for a lower voltage cutoff is only going to cover up the issue and not fix it.

What size packs are they? c rating?
Joe, thanks for the reply. maybe you remember us from this summer seeing us here and there. We haven't seen you fly since New Jersey Fly Low In and may not see you again until Nall again. We hope all has been well with you and your family. Thanks Rob as well. At least someone noticed we put video up and need some help. It's our first electric bigger than 4S.

The packs are EZ Flite 4S 4200 Mah packs from Heads up RC. They are reated 35C continuous and 70C "burst." We have about 4 or maybe more of them.

Aaron flew these packs quite a bit all summer in the 51" Slick which some may recall. He flew the heck out of the 51 on those 4S packs. He flew the plane at Nall and everywhere else. It died due to a lockout while goofing off after an IMAC contest. He was bummed because he won a freestyle with it and competed in several more... favorite plane etc etc...

So, I digress, these packs definitely could be suspect. But, on my Hi Tec X4 charger, they go on balance charge and go up to 16.8V each no problem. They don't really get a load test until they go in the plane.

I have the Castle USB link, I have downloaded the software but I don't have the USB cable yet. Maybe it will hook up to a type of USB I already have. I would guess you need to hook it up to the laptop to program the card before you can log anything. I would like to try this out. Not much for video on You Tube about "how to use" these. There are a couple Heli guys but not much else that I found so far.

When I was talking about the connectors, it wasn't so much the deans I was talking about but rather there is a 150 amp in line splice on the 10AWG speed control wires which splice it to another piece of #10 wire which is the "Y" used to go series together the two 4S batteries. So, that is to say that the speed control has been made to have the "Y" built in permanently. You may see these in the vid when the Slick is being viewed from the top.

Ears are open and thanks again for the thoughts and replies...

Erik and Aaron
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 04:04 PM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
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The usb cable you need is a mini, later came the micro, etc. Pretty common for 2-3 year old cameras. When programming you don't need power to the ESC, the computer provides that. Sounds like you downloaded the free program already. To program a BEC Pro you need to have it attached to power(battery). The settings are pretty easy to see once in there. After testing, the consensus on RCG is that leaving data logging on was bad thing. So I turn all mine off. When I hit my LVC the memory was full. I got nothing. If you leave it on it won't help much unless you erase it after several flights. Once it fills up it doesn't overwright itself. If you turn off some of the points I guess it'll record longer. Amps drawn seemed to be higher than my watts up, some of the stuff was interesting but I haven't looked at mine since the first one.

I have a couple old Turnigy packs that charge, balance, hold about 4.19, but when you put them under a load...splat! Good Luck!
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 04:44 PM
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United States, FL, Marianna
Joined Apr 2011
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Rolling, I would also suggest looking at the internal resistance of each cell. Not sure if your charge will show this data. Most of my packs are 0-5 milli-ohm (good) but ive got a few that are 20-30, these have been set aside and are used only in on-road rc vehicles.

Check out some new packs from gens ace or glacier (or hayin, haven't tried these yet)
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 05:06 PM
OOPS
Manta1's Avatar
USA, GA, Cochran
Joined Jun 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post

Also... I suck at soldering so I avoid it like the plague. That's the main reason I use APP's. So if I want to use those with a BEC setup what's the best way? Would I just crimp the BEC and ESC wires together into the same APP connector??

Its what i do. APP's rock
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