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Old Oct 03, 2011, 10:48 AM
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joshet89's Avatar
USA, OH, Wadsworth
Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by rod.d View Post
I think the gas installation manual for the 70" Slick (posted earlier I think) shows how to do that. If you look at any of the 3dhs gas manuals it shows how to use a piece of card stock to make a template, then you use that to cut (dremel) the cowl.
+1 IIRC the 87 SHP manual has a pretty good description of cutting the cowl.

pg 28 of the SHP manual has some nice pics
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Culpeper, VA
Joined Oct 2005
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Originally Posted by joshet89 View Post
Ya I tend to use the zip ties as well, but my wife bought me the bulk of zip ties and it was the colored package and I am down to just the pink ones Figured those nice little metal clips would look a little well manlier



What sort of ignition kill are you using? IBEC/F or opto kill? Either way just make sure the ignition is off, pull the choke and then flip the prop a few times till it "pops" (runs for a second then dies) That means the carb has pulled fuel for starting then push the choke back in and turn the ignition on and flip the prop and go fly I find that I am typically choking at the beginning of the day and then maybe again if I have taken a lot of time between flights, but if you are flying fueling and going shouldn't have to choke a warm engine.

I have this IBEF. Came with my DEL-30 when I bought it. I was talking with our club presedent on Friday and he said that he heard I went gas. Then said that the clud requires that I have two kill switches. One in the plane and one that you can kill from the radio. This puzzelled me at first. So would this mean that with the switch for the ignition be one and the IBEF plugged into the radio be the second one? If not what am I missing? I still need to get a switch harness for the ignition but also not clear on where the battery pack gets tied into the circuit? Does anyone have some wirering details?
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 12:30 PM
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USA, AK, Houston
Joined Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by rodsmith123 View Post
Back at the pits the radio worked perfectly. JR 9303, AR9XXX receiver with an extra sattelite rxr flown in this airframe 62 previous flights. Flown in a previous airframe dozens of flights. I noticed a momentary loss of control at the flightline prior to take off. I pulled the canopy and all lights on all rxrs were on solid. I had control before I could pull the canopy. Flew all my other airplanes before and after this incident with no issues.

I had not flown this particular rxr in a saturated environment before. I'm wondering if I should send it in and see if there is an issue with software.

Any help on the lockout or wing tube would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm pretty well versed on 2.4ghz and spektrum so I thought I would offer some comments.

The biggest problems with 2.4ghz is that it likes to bounce off of things and the band is pretty much full of signals. Bouncing off of things is a big deal if your airplane gets a signal directly to your RX and the same signal bounces off of your battery (or the ground, or anything else) then to your RX. When this happens you could have a situation where the signals are out of phase to each other and cancel each other out. This is why wifi will sometimes come and go when the base station and laptop are stationary but other things in the room are moving around.

There are basically two ways to deal with this:

DSSS transmitting on two channels: This is where the TX sends it's signal twice on two channels and if we didn't get the information on one channel then we look for it on the other. We also use a second RX that is mounted on a different plain so that we always have a different perspective to look at.

FHSS transmits for a split second on one channel, then moves to a different channel. So if we loose a bit of information we simply move on and try again a split second later.

Basically one system tries to never loose a packet, and the other can deal with loosing a packet, it just starts acting sluggish.

DSM2 is DSSS. It has superior range and works great as long as you mount one RX right side up and the other on it's sides. That said, it doesn't work so great in super busy 2.4ghz environments because it really needs two open channels to work.

DSMX and fasst are FHSS. They can slow down in heavy traffic, but it's not likely they will loose a link. With this system you don't need an external RX because as long as the system is getting some percentage of the packets, the plane will be flyable.

I really like spektrum gear because the RX's are so much cheaper, the BNF models are great, and because there are so many options. However, I don't fly in an environment with more than a few radios on at a time.

Now that DSMX is out I think it's the best system because you get the frequency hopping as well as multiple RX's and antennas on different plains.

So if it was me I would upgrade my x9303 to dsmx then purchase a new dsmX RX for flying at events, but continue to use DSM2 at the home field.

Also, DSMX TX's did have a software bug that could cause an AR6200 and lower RX to reboot, but that bug was fixed and now people are getting very good reliability from DSMX.

Oh, one last thing, get a Spektrum Flight log. It will show you what your RX performance is. It's good information to have.

Hope that helps.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ryan_m View Post
Ben actually mentioned something about this when the 71" Slicks replaced the 70" ones. He said they had made some type of deal that was going to let them offer them at a lower price for a little while, and the price dropped from something like $429 to $389. Now they are pretty much just back to the same price that they were a little over a year ago when I bought my trusty 70" one...
Exactly...the price just went back to what it used to be. I'm sure all of the complaining about it will teach 3DHS not to offer any discounts in the future (the Addict discount is already gone due to all of the complaining). They were selling like hotcakes at the old price, so I don't even know why he passed his savings on to the consumer? That'll learn him for being nice!
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 01:26 PM
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USA, OH, Wadsworth
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Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
I have this IBEF. Came with my DEL-30 when I bought it. I was talking with our club presedent on Friday and he said that he heard I went gas. Then said that the clud requires that I have two kill switches. One in the plane and one that you can kill from the radio. This puzzelled me at first. So would this mean that with the switch for the ignition be one and the IBEF plugged into the radio be the second one? If not what am I missing? I still need to get a switch harness for the ignition but also not clear on where the battery pack gets tied into the circuit? Does anyone have some wirering details?
I would assume your club pres is talking about having a switch to go along with the ignition kill. Somthing like this would be the 3DHS of switches but I have had very good luck with the switch/ fuel dot I got from TBM.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 01:48 PM
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United States, GA, Woodstock
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by G.P. View Post
Exactly...the price just went back to what it used to be. I'm sure all of the complaining about it will teach 3DHS not to offer any discounts in the future (the Addict discount is already gone due to all of the complaining). They were selling like hotcakes at the old price, so I don't even know why he passed his savings on to the consumer? That'll learn him for being nice!
Guess the only way to get a little discount is to wait for the garage sales
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 08:14 PM
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winston mo
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Originally Posted by joshet89 View Post
Ya



What sort of ignition kill are you using? IBEC/F or opto kill? Either way just make sure the ignition is off, pull the choke and then flip the prop a few times till it "pops" (runs for a second then dies) That means the carb has pulled fuel for starting then push the choke back in and turn the ignition on and flip the prop and go fly .
The DLE will never pop with the ING shut off, it requires a spark.
I go WOT and choke on and my IGN on flip till she pops. I then throttle back and choke off and she'll start right up.

I have seen some guys put a servo on the choke and use it for a TX shut off.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 10:23 PM
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Culpeper, VA
Joined Oct 2005
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DLE-30 Carb Question

So now I'm confused. Looking at the added pictures I not sure. Do I need to rotate the carb on my DLE-30? Which side should the carb linkage and choke be on? Left or right? As pictured the carb choke and throttle linkage is on the left side of the plane as if you were standing at the rudder. What am I missing?







Does the linkage for the throttle connect to the slider on the right side and the choke on the left? Not sure! Want to make sure before I drill the firewall for the throttle and gas line. Thanks everyone!
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 07:57 AM
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United States, OH, Groveport
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Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
So now I'm confused. Looking at the added pictures I not sure. Do I need to rotate the carb on my DLE-30?..
You can put it on either side, but yes mine is reversed. I don't remember now why I did that, I think it was alignment of the linkage to the throttle servo.

Quote:
Does the linkage for the throttle connect to the slider on the right side and the choke on the left?
They both go on the same side. You will probably want to replace the throttle arm with the g10 one (longer) that came with the motor. It will give you more resolution on the throttle, especially if you use a short arm and mount it in as close as possible on the servo.
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 08:12 AM
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USA, NY, Patchogue
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Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
So now I'm confused. Looking at the added pictures I not sure. Do I need to rotate the carb on my DLE-30? Which side should the carb linkage and choke be on? Left or right? As pictured the carb choke and throttle linkage is on the left side of the plane as if you were standing at the rudder. What am I missing?

h t




Does the linkage for the throttle connect to the slider on the right side and the choke on the left? Not sure! Want to make sure before I drill the firewall for the throttle and gas line. Thanks everyone!
I flipped the carb over and then used a hitec blue arm for the throttle. Also if you notice, the arm goes to the bottom and the choke stays to the top.It gives a little more room for the choke rod. Also with the Dle 30's throttle is a bit touchy, so the longer arm and the right set up of the throttle make it smoother. here is a pic of the setup and the throttle setup we have been using with great results....
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 08:38 AM
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United States, NC, Robbins
Joined Jul 2008
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RC_Feen
YEah RC, just flip carb, it gives you a more direct set-up for your linkage. My throttle servo (ESC) for you elctric guys, is on the floor of motor box.
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 08:46 AM
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Culpeper, VA
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Thanks guys for the information. I'll flip the carb. Steve400 did you make the choke guide? I like that!
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 09:01 AM
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USA, NY, Patchogue
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Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
Thanks guys for the information. I'll flip the carb. Steve400 did you make the choke guide? I like that!
Yes, that is a pic of my bud's slick. We changed that out for a large servo arm. Just drill out the centerhole and bolt it on. Also using the zip tie method which works really well too. Wrap a zip tie around the 2 standoffs.
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Last edited by steve400; Oct 04, 2011 at 09:06 AM. Reason: pic
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 09:52 AM
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Culpeper, VA
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DLE-30 Carb flip

So flipping the carb I assume that I just need to un-bolt it and flip it and rebolt it back on. Is that pretty much it? Anything to be aware of?
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 10:11 AM
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United States, NC, Robbins
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Originally Posted by RC_Feen View Post
So flipping the carb I assume that I just need to un-bolt it and flip it and rebolt it back on. Is that pretty much it? Anything to be aware of?
YEP, not much to it. Since you'll have engine off to flip carb, once you've flipped it, hold it back up and mark where your fuel Line,and throttle linkage will come out,and drill before installing engine bk.
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