Yea, these were sheeted wings before I vac bagged the carbon over. This wing is a sheeted low density white EPS, which is why I was afraid to pull more then I did. But picking the minds of the experienced is Priceless.

let me check the box

the wings are presheeted EPS...sheeted with 1/64 balsa
the box,if i recall, said E374 for the airfoil
FYI
dave
who sold the kit........................looking mighty fine greg!

Thanks Dave!! I hope to have her done, balanced and test flown for the classic. Thanks for selling me the kit. =)

Here are my wings... Almost done with the wings. I still need to add some resin to the wing tips after sanding, and glue the incident pins into the wing.

Fuse is ready to be painted, but still waiting for my servo to arrive in the mail. Once I get the wingeron servo in, I'll paint the fuse, and glue the tail on. By then the incident meter I bought should be here, I hope.

Even though Slopepilot has already called out the airfoil, I still added a pic. Thanks Dave!!

screamin' eagle,

I'd have to take you to task recommending up to 12" on #1 EPS. 6-7" is about the most that foam will take w/o crushing the foam. There are many "white foams" but the stuff we use for cores is typically #1 EPS. 10" and up is for #2 EPS, Dow blue board or Owens Corning 150 and up, and high load, sometimes called spyder foam, can handle about all the pressure you can apply.

For an interesting read on foam types, check out flyingfoam.com

George Voss

Originally Posted by gavoss

screamin' eagle,

I'd have to take you to task recommending up to 12" on #1 EPS. 6-7" is about the most that foam will take w/o crushing the foam. There are many "white foams" but the stuff we use for cores is typically #1 EPS. 10" and up is for #2 EPS, Dow blue board or Owens Corning 150 and up, and high load, sometimes called spyder foam, can handle about all the pressure you can apply.

For an interesting read on foam types, check out flyingfoam.com

George Voss

Hey George,

I don't know the specifics of #1 EPS or what it's used for, but I've bagged maybe half a dozen sets of white foam wings at between 12 inches and never had any hint of crushing or deforming the foil. Typically these have been bagged with ply first and then carbon or glass.

I guess there are many types of white foam out there -- but if you can't suck enough vacuum to get it so the cloth is smooth, it's probably not worth the effort. Why would anyone use foam that flimsy for wing cores when better white foam is available very cheaply?

In any event Gregg's wings were already sheeted with wood, so I doubt 12 inches of vacuum would have done any damage-

Dominic

Can somebody help me with the incident on the Phoenix??? Right now I have it set at +1.5.Should I set more or less???? HELP???? I'd like to try and get the tail installed tonight so I can maiden her tomorrow.

Greygoosegregg, I imagine when you get done adjusting it, it'll be close to 0-0, but 1.5 sounds like a good starting plane. If someone has a Samauri, they could measure theirs and your should be close. George

Almost ready... Wingeron and elevator servos installed. Just need to know what the insident should be and glue on the tail. Once I have her balanced, then I'll detail out the fuse and wings. Should I avoid using my Spektrum 2.4 because of the carbon fiber I have laid up as fuse doublers and the carbon fiber wings, or is it good enough to just move the Rx further back past the carbon???

Dominic, Please don't take this wrong, but I've bagged literally hundreds of panels and with my system, anything over 7 will deform the foam. It may not crush it flat, but there will be signs of deformation. If you check ACP and CST's cheap bagging systems, they are set to 6-7"hg for that very reason.

As for bagging fabrics, I'd agree with you. You need to have enough vacuum to suck the cloth flat. Using mylar even at low pressure would give him a smooth, non-fabric-showing finish. I use 7" for white foam and all I can get on pink, blue or spyder foam. With the new pump I just bought I can run a dozen bags and get 23"hg w/o breaking a sweat. Funny though, I had to add another bleed valve since my pump was so strong it was providing 9" with one 1/8" bleed valve open fully. I had to put a dedicated 1/4" bleed line that is removed when I bag white foam. George

Originally Posted by gavoss

Greygoosegregg, I imagine when you get done adjusting it, it'll be close to 0-0, but 1.5 sounds like a good starting plane. If someone has a Samauri, they could measure theirs and your should be close. George

Thank You George. I just bought a Samurai... lol If there is someone out there with a FG Turbo, I'd like to know what they have their incident set to. Since the Phoenix is a copy of the FG Turbo by CR Aircraft, it should be about the same I would think.

You should be OK with the RX moved back. You can always put whiskers on it to be on the safe side. Make them so 31-32mm is sticking out of the plane. The extra length inside the fuse doesn't matter. Also, you don't need to solder anything. Just lay the new longer wire over the original antenna and use some heat shrink tubing to keep them together. You can put a drop of CA on the 2 wires if you want.

George

Originally Posted by gavoss

You should be OK with the RX moved back. You can always put whiskers on it to be on the safe side. Make them so 31-32mm is sticking out of the plane. The extra length inside the fuse doesn't matter. Also, you don't need to solder anything. Just lay the new longer wire over the original antenna and use some heat shrink tubing to keep them together. You can put a drop of CA on the 2 wires if you want.

George

Extending the wires on 2.4 Rx's is okay? They are not tuned to length like 72MHz? I have no problem doing it, just want to know if it will change the tuning of the antennas?

We (the competitive RC sailplane bunch) have had problems with 2.4 in our carbon infested fuselages. What we've ended up doing while waiting for the manufacturers to catch up is to make whiskers. You see, the carbon in the fuse is blocking the signal, so we make a longer antenna from each antenna on the main RX and satillite RX and put them 90 degrees around the fuse. One out the top and bottom and one out each side. You only need to have 31-32mm sticking out of the fuse. The carbon blocks out the rest of the signal. Now, if your fuse isn't completely carbon, you will probably get it to work w/o making whiskers or even have to have the existing antennae exit the fuse.

JR has already come out with a 2.4 RX that has a long antenna on it and the aircraft manufacturers are now leaving the carbon out of the fuses from the back of the canopy forward so we can use 2.4gHz RX's without having holes and wires sticking out of our expensive models. Some of us are going so far as to go back to 72mhz in our competiton planes. We are actually doubling the length of the standard antenna and leave the extra hang out in the breeze. The antenna is routed up the fin and the extra roughly 12" (depends on the length fuse you have of course) hanging out. It looks stupid, but so does crashing a $2000 model. George