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Old Sep 29, 2009, 11:01 AM
Wish my coax could autorotate
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Old Sep 30, 2009, 02:21 PM
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hi iam new to this forum i've been reading your reports on the walkera 400d they sound very positive which is good because i have bought one so far so good it looks amazing i have lots of questions about this Heli iwount ask them all at once though .one of my first ones is am i right in thinking the canopy of the 400 will fit on the 400d .thanks very much i hope to hear from someone very soon mike
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Old Sep 30, 2009, 08:28 PM
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I've been reading all these posts with avid fascination and finally ordered my own Lama 400D. I have to say that this is the first time I haven't had to fix loose screws, make major adjustments or anything. I just checked it over, charged it, put in the air. It flew.

I didn't even bother with the "extent" pot yet. Just wanted to get a feel for it.

It's slightly nose heavy, as was noted by others, but even so, it still needed some forward trim to stop it from coming back to me. I tried moving the battery around to see where the CG should be, and ended up putting in the factory stock position (all the way forward). It hovers hands off in no wind.

Now that's a welcome change..

My next goal is to turn up the extent control and see how it handles. I don't expect it to be anything like my FP, but then I didn't want anything like that FP (it sure doesn't hover hands off)...

Something that took a bit to get used to is the size of this bird. I found myself getting close to objects and then over compensating to get away from them...took a minute or so to learn to think about where it's going and work on the flight path in advance..;-) The extent pot should help that some what.

I read that the motors on the Lama 400D were cool even after flying. I was somewhat leery of this, but I was completely wrong. Mine were very cool (unlike the 5G6-1 motors)...great.

All in all, one of the nicest birds I've taken out of the box and throughly enjoyed flying the first time. My other helicopters are a 53Q3, 5G6-1, 4G1B, and Lama V4.
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Old Sep 30, 2009, 09:56 PM
The END.....ha!
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Originally Posted by blacksteel
one of my first ones is am i right in thinking the canopy of the 400 will fit on the 400d .thanks very much i hope to hear from someone very soon mike
A 400 canopy would probably fit, but it might be a bit of a squeeze. I am using 450 class fibreglass canopies which are about the same size as the Walkera 400D plastic one. Take a look at post #13.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=13

Wabbitguy, Have to agree with you and thanks for supporting my findings so far.

Cheers.. Mark
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Old Sep 30, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Wabbitguy, Have to agree with you and thanks for supporting my findings so far.
Cheers.. Mark
Mark, your posts were the reason that I decided to take the plunge and get the 400D so if there is any thanks, it's my thanks for your fantastic "unembellished" posts!!!

I used to like the 53Q3 until I got the 400D. I think the extra weight of the 400D just makes it such a smooth flyer because I find it handles much nicer than the 53Q3 (which I get into some wicked power turns with and sometimes...even recover)...

I've read a lot of posts that say the swash plate should be "level" but I always took that to mean 90 degrees to the shaft. So anything I tried to adjust like that wasn't flying well..if at all. Make it "unlevel" and it flew nicely. For example, my 400D:



Two things I thing would be nice for the 400D, longer wires for the charger and a faster charge time. I'm using the standard charger, it seems to take a couple of hours to charge. Anyone know any reasonable priced charger alternatives or is this pretty much the norm?

Apart from that, it's still very nice to fly. If we did have some 20K+ gusts today, I'd have been outside flying it instead of the garage. Kinda of looking forward to those snowy winter nights. I was have a gas flying the helo's in the snow last year (I found snow is crash friendly) but have to watch the electronics to keep things dry when you really drill down deep..:-)

Looking forward to more of your posts Mark.

Mel
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Old Sep 30, 2009, 11:13 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wabbitguy
Mark, your posts were the reason that I decided to take the plunge and get the 400D so if there is any thanks, it's my thanks for your fantastic "unembellished" posts!!!

.....

I've read a lot of posts that say the swash plate should be "level" but I always took that to mean 90 degrees to the shaft. So anything I tried to adjust like that wasn't flying well..if at all. Make it "unlevel" and it flew nicely.

.....

Two things I thing would be nice for the 400D, longer wires for the charger and a faster charge time. I'm using the standard charger, it seems to take a couple of hours to charge. Anyone know any reasonable priced charger alternatives or is this pretty much the norm?


Mel
Hi Mel,

where are you located? (just continent is sufficient )

Reason being - someone here on the forum brought my attention to THIS website which has pretty awesome pricing (sometimes) ... drawback is, that the shipping to the US is expensive ...
(thought it would be nice to share ...)

http://www.helibuy.com/charger-c-12....fc8364c54e8bb5

Sven
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Old Oct 02, 2009, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by erdnuckel2
Hi Mel,

where are you located? (just continent is sufficient )

Reason being - someone here on the forum brought my attention to THIS website which has pretty awesome pricing (sometimes) ... drawback is, that the shipping to the US is expensive ...
(thought it would be nice to share ...)

http://www.helibuy.com/charger-c-12....fc8364c54e8bb5

Sven
Hi Sven,

I'm on the west coast of Canada (that'd be BC).

I've been reading everything I can find about chargers. I finally grabbed my meter and figured out why the stock charger takes forever. It's only charging at a little under 600ma. I've seen some of these chargers go 1.5A so that's going to be the typical 1 hr charge (I assume) for a 1500ma pack (give or take a minute)..

From your link, the Imax B6 looks inviting. I read the resistors on the B5 were +-5 or 10% tolerance and they worked much better when you change them to 1%. Trouble is those are SMT (surface mount) resistors and although I have the tools to work on that, you have to pry the display off to get at them. The B6 didn't have the same problem.

One of the drawbacks to some of the chargers is that you need a decent 12-18V power supply for them. I guess a standard computer switching supply would work, but those supplies typically work better with loads on all the outputs rather than just the 12V outputs (like +-5). I also read that some of the chargers didn't work well unless you feed in more than 12VDC.

Now to stay on topic, I changed the extents setting on the 400D today. I marked it as Mark said to do so in the event of a problem I knew where it needed to go back to. Then I moved it to the half way point. Since it was pouring rain today, I flew in the garage again. Better control, but an interesting side effect was some TBE. I couldn't seem to trim it out. I'm going to try again tomorrow to see if I can repeat it and then do some minor adjusting.

Does anyone balance the blades in these things?

Another thing I notice with the 400D, if you crank the rudder hard left or right, it doesn't spin nearly as rapidly as those smaller copters do or even my 53Q3. I find with the 400D, I need to give it a little more reaction time because it's a big bird (it reminded me of piloting my hovercraft). Just something to get used to I guess.

Mel
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Old Oct 02, 2009, 09:40 AM
The END.....ha!
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Mel,

I use a Turnigy charger I got from Hobbycity/HobbyKing, works a treat and was about 40USD. It ballance charges my 2200 packs in about 75 to 80 minutes.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...lancer/Charger

And a bag of these, which mate with the Walkera 3S packs as used on the 400D.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...tor_(10pcs/set)

The charger also allows me to "storage" charge my LiPo's if I know they are not going to be used for a few months. I have a 60A 30Vdc variable supply that I use however, Hobbycity has a few 12 power packs for a good price that work well.

My 400D had a bit of TBE with my new blades and it was fixed with a turn on the flybar link. With the standard blades I don't bother with a full ballance but I do check they are within 0.1g of each other per pair. I had one set that had one upper blade 0.4g heavier than the other upper blade and it caused it to vibrate on slow turns.

With the rudder turn rate, I tweeked the sensitivity and it improved mine a bit.

Cheers.. Mark
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Old Oct 02, 2009, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KCV6
Mel,

I use a Turnigy charger I got from Hobbycity/HobbyKing, works a treat and was about 40USD. It ballance charges my 2200 packs in about 75 to 80 minutes.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...lancer/Charger

And a bag of these, which mate with the Walkera 3S packs as used on the 400D.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...tor_(10pcs/set)

The charger also allows me to "storage" charge my LiPo's if I know they are not going to be used for a few months. I have a 60A 30Vdc variable supply that I use however, Hobbycity has a few 12 power packs for a good price that work well.

My 400D had a bit of TBE with my new blades and it was fixed with a turn on the flybar link. With the standard blades I don't bother with a full ballance but I do check they are within 0.1g of each other per pair. I had one set that had one upper blade 0.4g heavier than the other upper blade and it caused it to vibrate on slow turns.

With the rudder turn rate, I tweeked the sensitivity and it improved mine a bit.

Cheers.. Mark
Thanks for the links Mark! I ordered the Turnigy charger and I'll be using my bench supply to run it. HobbyCity was out of the 3S extensions so I think I'm going to butcher up one of the chargers I have and make my own.

Re the power plugs, I'm not a big fan of those "Molex" style connectors. I haven't used these RC style ones before, but the molex ones tend to loosen up over time. I prefer the deans style plugs.

Re the TBE, I'm going to do a couple of test flights today and see if it repeats itself. When you adjusted the flybar link, do you remember if you lengthen it or shortened it? I'll weigh the blades today as well and make sure they are at least close to each other.

One of the things I do is to tighten the blade holders so the blades don't flop around. Not so tight that they won't move, i.e. I can move them easily with a finger (hum....interesting thought, flipping the bird the finger..)...

I'll work on the sensitivity after I get the best hover I can (I did notice the tailboom was a little twitchy yesterday)..

It still flies really nice (I haven't scared myself by throwing it into one of those sphincter grabbing power turns like I've done with the 53Q3). Ugh...

Mel
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Old Oct 02, 2009, 03:20 PM
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thank you for replying to my question kcv6 i would like to try the 400 canopy at some time iwill see if ican find out any moor information else were .your canopy looks very cool did you do the paint job your self .can you get 450 scale canopies that will fit on the 400d .if you can could you point me in the right direction .my next question is to do with the blades i was reading that you have made your own; brilliant; i was hoping that the large airy harden blades might been ok but this dose not seem to be the case is there alternative to the stock blades thanks again hope to hear from you soon mike
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Old Oct 02, 2009, 09:36 PM
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Mark, thanks for the tip on that flybar! I shortened mine 1/2 turn. End of TBE. I tweaked the sensitivity about 1/10th of a turn and presto, nice steady tail boom too and better rudder control.

I had it outside tonight and with the extent only set to 1/2 of the travel, and full forward I was moving about 4-5mph when the wind finally died. Which is a very good starting point for playing with that extents control.

I started off in a breeze of problem 2 or 3 mph, it was shoving the 53Q3 (but this is a very light heli) all around my yard. I put it away and took out the 400D because it's far heavier and I wanted to see what it did. Okay not a lot of forward speed, but it still moved forward but better than that, it handled the gentle breeze nicely.

The 400D seems heavy enough that it just wants to float in the air.

BTW did you have a link for extra LiPo's you'd advise. I'd like to get a second pak for 400D.

Oh and I noticed when the LiPo starts to die, she comes back to the ground pretty quick...:-) Maybe I'll put a low battery siren on it...LOL...

I wonder how those pocket-sized anemometers work for measuring that "breeze" speed?

Mel
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 12:45 AM
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Australia, SA, Edinburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksteel
thank you for replying to my question kcv6 i would like to try the 400 canopy at some time iwill see if ican find out any moor information else were .your canopy looks very cool did you do the paint job your self .can you get 450 scale canopies that will fit on the 400d .if you can could you point me in the right direction .my next question is to do with the blades i was reading that you have made your own; brilliant; i was hoping that the large airy harden blades might been ok but this dose not seem to be the case is there alternative to the stock blades thanks again hope to hear from you soon mike
Mike, I got the haloween mask fiberglass 450 canopy from ehirobo and used my airbrush to soften up the edges of the flames and then used tamiya pearl clear over the top. They have quite a few different ones at fairly good prices.

http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/index.php?cPath=352_235

HobbyCity also do them very cheaply.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...&ParentCat=196

Of the 6 or so I have bought from both places I have had 2 turn up with cracks, but I will repair them and re-spray in some custom colours.

The Airy blades are too flexible, so are the 3D pro blades and both are a bit too short. The standard blades are the best performance wise but break too easily. I have heard rumours that there may be harden blades available eventually. I will be interested in trying some when and if they come out.

Mel, LiPo's were from here, They fit in the original holder.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._20C_Lipo_Pack

They have the correct connector on them, but they are wired in reverse so I cut the original connector off and used the replacement ones I listed before. You could cut them off and press the pins back out (they go out the front), heat the solder and pull the old stubs of wire out and re-use the pins and plastic part. Just remember when cutting and re soldering them back on do one at a time so you can't accidentally short the LiPo out and also remember you have to slide the red plastic connector over the wires first. I've been caught out more than once with nice soldered pins on the wires and then looked at the plastic part sitting on the bench. This is usually followed by a minor tantrum

cheers guys... Mark
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 04:37 AM
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thanks for the links and information about the blades i think i will be looking in to getting me one off those canopies .by the looks of it the modifications don't look to complicated .to one of my other questions I've altered my extent port which has given me some nice FFF i was wondering if there was anything Else i could to to to improve on this ; like adjusting the rods on the swash plate this is something i to do when i feel moor confident .hope you don't mind me firing these questions at you. you have been very helpful with my other questions thanks again Mike
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 10:04 AM
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Mike, I'm looking into longer servo arms. There will be a downside to this. It will probably lead to more blade strikes. I found that shortening the flybar and limiting it's movement gave me a lot more speed in all directions, however it does make it a bit more twitchy to fly. So I advise you get a spare flybar to play with just incase you don't like how it flies.

I run mine on my WK-2801 TX which means I can increase servo travel by programing in more than 100%. Unfortunately this doesn't help anyone else who doesn't have the 2801. I would still prefer to have longer servo arms and then program the TX for less than 100% travel.

Cheers. Mark
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Old Oct 03, 2009, 10:13 AM
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failure #3

Well I broke a CF blade today when it flew straight into a brick wall. Luckily I have my next "improved" set laid up and curing.

Failure can probably be put down to me doing so many soft and hard strike tests. The lower blade grips are attached to the outer shaft by a nice silver plastic "Lower Blade Connector Holder" via 2 screws. The blade holders are attached to this by 2 small pins. The plastic part had fractured and one of the screws snapped. It was flying fine and I heard a snapping noise and Then lost most of the cyclic control and it took a hard right dive straight into the wall. Fortunately nothing else broke. Anyway I would suggest these plastic lower blade connectors be kept as spares, RC711 has them for 1.80 USD, They also seem to have an endless supply of most of the 400/400D parts.

Anyway the 400D is stripped down waiting for parts now, so I might go back to playing with the CB180D for a bit.

Cheers.... Mark
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