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Old Apr 09, 2012, 10:20 PM
"whirlydude"
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Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
OK, for the sake of being able to use my DX6i, I agree, that would be better. I thought you were speaking only of the brushless part.
When I first got my 400 there was a couple of guys on a thread, stating they were having communication problems with their 400's and the 2402. A while after that I started to have problems, so I was thinking it was the tx. If you have that happen again, I believe it would be better to go with a Spektrum system which means a boardless brushless setup. I think it would be cheaper going to a Spektrum setup than finding a 2801 transmitter, and the rx to match. It's too bad Eflite doesn't have a 3 in 1 control unit that will handle the 370 motors, with a 3s setup. That way one could stay with the brushed motors, and use a Spektrum tx. I don't believe it's possible to use the Walkera esc in a Spektrum rx, but someone else may know more about that.
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 06:15 AM
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I've used up my mod money for the whole year on the CX-2 mod. I also got laid off two weeks ago and spending money on a heli mod isn't in the near future.
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 07:55 PM
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Please help new Lama 400 D???

I just purchased a Lama 400 D and I really like it. I want to make some minor adjustments to the swash plate. Now, to remove the plastic turnbuckle adjustments from their attachment point on the swash plate, are you just suppose to pull real hard and unsnap or are you to unscrew the attachment ball, make the adjustment, and then screw it back to the swash plate? Please help, I tried to pull but they seem so tight. What is the right thing to do? Thanks…
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 07:48 AM
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Welcome to our little group. The thing you're talking about is the servo link. The Z-shaped end can stay in the servo arm. The end that's attached to the swash plate comes off without unscrewing the ball from the swash plate. There are special pliers that help you pop off the end, but you can also pop it off carefully with a pair of needle nose pliers. The key is to not ruin the plastic on the link end. I'm assuming you are doing this to get the heli to not go off in one direction, right? You have tried to adjust the sliders under or to the side of the stick that controls that motion and cannot get enough adjustment, right? By giving the heli nothing but throttle, it should come straight up off the ground. If it is going in some direction that you are not telling it to go in, the first attempt should be to trim it by using the appropriate slider. If you cannot get enough adjustment to prevent the heli from going in a direction it is prone to go in, then center the slider back to the middle and start making link adjustments one full revolution at a time. Move the stick in the direction that counters what you are getting from the heli and then adjust that link in the direction that corresponds to what you need to get out of it. The only exception I might offer is forward bias. If the heli tends to move forward when you lift off into a hover, to a certain extent, that is desired in forward flight. Heli's, as a rule, tend to want to hover in position. In forward flight, you have to overcome that tendency to stay put and most of us give it a certain amount of forward bias so it wants to fly forward rather than stay put. Let us know how you make out and we'll be here to help. Remember, this is a BIG heli and it has a lot of weight. Learn in small increments so you don't have big heli damage!
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 08:17 AM
"whirlydude"
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Originally Posted by rcwatchman View Post
I just purchased a Lama 400 D and I really like it. I want to make some minor adjustments to the swash plate. Now, to remove the plastic turnbuckle adjustments from their attachment point on the swash plate, are you just suppose to pull real hard and unsnap or are you to unscrew the attachment ball, make the adjustment, and then screw it back to the swash plate? Please help, I tried to pull but they seem so tight. What is the right thing to do? Thanks…
The thing to do is unsnap the link from the ball, and make the adjustment. Yes them links can fit very tight, and can be hard on the finger nails at times when removing them. There are ball link pilers that one can purchase, and are a good idea for larger helicopters. I want to let you know that the screws used on this helicopter are very soft, and will break off easily. This can happen when removing the screws that have been tighten from the factory, and when reinstalling them if one tends to overtighten just a little. All in all the 400D is a nice flying and very stable helicopter. Enjoy!
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 10:12 PM
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Thanks for your help...

Thank you guys for your help. That was what I needed to know to get it dialed in. May all your flight be low cost. Thanks again…
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:15 AM
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Thank you guys for your help. That was what I needed to know to get it dialed in. May all your flight be low cost. Thanks again…
Was it off enough that using the sliders wasn't enough?
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:37 AM
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Its a curse...

It was off a good bit. But something you have to know about me is, I am a certified watch maker from years ago and just a little becomes a lot. Things like that just drive me crazy. Yes, it’s a curse!

If you are reading this, what do you have the two pots on the receiver set at? Just curious…
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 09:51 AM
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It was off a good bit. But something you have to know about me is, I am a certified watch maker from years ago and just a little becomes a lot. Things like that just drive me crazy. Yes, it’s a curse!

If you are reading this, what do you have the two pots on the receiver set at? Just curious…
The two pots on the receiver are ambiguous. If you make an adjustment that is clockwise and decide to go back the opposite way, there is a phenomenon called hysteresis involved where you will not be able to go back to the EXACT spot to get the same effect. Remember, these are one-turn pots too. You can turn that thing until you're blue in the face and it doesn't matter. It starts at 12:00 and ends at 11:59. If the tail is not spinning, do NOT adjust the gain. If both rotors appear to be spinning about equally, do not adjust the proportional {I'm calling them that because that's what MOST manufacturers call them. Walkera, I think, calls them something else}. I have never had to adjust any of my Walkera heli's in the 4 years I've had them, and there were several. This is one of those situations where, no matter how anal you are and I can be too, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 02:32 PM
"whirlydude"
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Originally Posted by rcwatchman View Post
It was off a good bit. But something you have to know about me is, I am a certified watch maker from years ago and just a little becomes a lot. Things like that just drive me crazy. Yes, it’s a curse!

If you are reading this, what do you have the two pots on the receiver set at? Just curious
The pot adjustments need to be turned counterclockwise to increase and clockwise to decrease. The extent pot on my helicopter is maxed out. I have it turned counterclockwise as far as it goes. This will give the servos the most throw, which will help the helicopter to become more agile. The sensitive pot I have adjusted to just a little back of maximum. The slot of the adjusting screw is positioned at 1 & 7 o'clock. I like the gyro gain to be as high as possible without having the tail twitching.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:50 PM
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That was what I was missing...

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Originally Posted by flyeraroo View Post
The pot adjustments need to be turned counterclockwise to increase and clockwise to decrease. The extent pot on my helicopter is maxed out. I have it turned counterclockwise as far as it goes. This will give the servos the most throw, which will help the helicopter to become more agile. The sensitive pot I have adjusted to just a little back of maximum. The slot of the adjusting screw is positioned at 1 & 7 o'clock. I like the gyro gain to be as high as possible without having the tail twitching.
That was the trick. I set the pots the way you said and tweaked the trim and it’s a whole different heli. I used up a good portion of a charge just hovering in the kitchen. Any way, I thank you sir, and I can’t wait to get it outside now. This was the first copter I put a little money into and it was all worth it. But I do want to thank everyone for their input. And as I say, may your flights be low cost…
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 05:44 AM
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Wait a minute, this discussion was about adjusting the servo links and now we're talking pot adjustment. Did you need both? Can you go back to the beginning and tell us what it was doing and what you did that fixed it?
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 09:45 AM
"whirlydude"
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Every new helicopter will need some adjusting, unless it has been flown and trimmed out. I prefer trimming it out with the pushrods, and getting it dialed in rather than using the trim buttons. If for some reason after I have it dialed in and it needs to be trimmed a little when flying, then I will use the trim buttons on the tx. What I have seen with the "extent" adjustment on the receiver is a very low setting, which is setup for the beginner. The servos don't have much movement, and the helicopter does not react very well. (sluggish) This is fine for the beginner that doesn't want a more agile helicopter until they become used to it. A more advanced flyer will want the setting to maximum for the most servo throw, and a more agile helicopter. The "sensitive" adjustment will differ for each model, but like I stated before, I like as much gyro gain as I can get to hold the tail, without the tail twitching.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Back to the begining

When I first started to work with the copter new, it would take off and immediately fly to the right and pull slightly forward. That was when I tried to remove the servo links as you call them but found they where too tight to just pull off with the fingers. So I started asking what to do.

Then I asked about the pot adjustments on the receiver. Well after I set the pots as Flyeraroo described, I found that the other flight problems dropped way back to the point it only took miner trim adjusting.

I now have it flying very stable and very controllable for my skill level. I did not mean to hijack the thread just needed help. But again thanks to all.

I will be more careful with my questions next time…
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 05:01 PM
"whirlydude"
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rcwatchman, dont feel that you hijacked anything here. This thread is open to any discussion, questions, ideas, and etc. about the Lama 400, D, and I would believe the EC135 helicopter. They are all pretty much the same as far as frame, and parts. The 400 and 135 having a full fuselage, and the 400 with wheels instead of skids, otherwise they are the same. I just wish more people that own these helicopters would get more involved in this thread. It would be nice to hear from others that are flying them, and what they have done or intend to do with their 400's. I myself think the 400 is a perfect size for my area of flying. It's large enough to see, and still not too large for my backyard. I also think it's a pretty well built bird, which makes it fly so smooth and stable. One can fly it in a very light wind, but I much prefer a calm morning or evening for flying. The parts for this helicopter are pretty reasonable and the availability is still pretty good. One may have to shop around a little to find the best deals, but Helidirect has now become my main shopping spot. As far as battery packs HobbyKing is the best place that I have found, but I wish they would carry a better selection in their US based warehouse. Otherwise it's around a couple of weeks wait from Asia.
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