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Old Mar 31, 2010, 05:14 PM
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United States, FL, Miramar
Joined Dec 2007
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Well, I have 7 electrics right now on the 8FG, throttle trims at 0 (default) and end points at 100. When my throttle stick is all the way down the prop stops, I use the throttle cut so I don't bumb the stick by mistake, it works good for me and for about 7 other users at my field.

Whatever works for you is good.

Regards,
Doug.
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Old Mar 31, 2010, 05:58 PM
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USA, KS, Derby
Joined Mar 2003
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DougV & rod.d:
Okay, I tried the Throttle Cut again and here's what I found to make it work for me. I had to make sure the POS value is set to the exact value (not lower) to the lowest point of my Throttle. It's easily seen since the 2 opposite pointers pointing at the bar chart. If these 2 pointers are at the same position opposite each other then the Throttle Cut works as rod.d and I are trying to achieve.

And, here are some additional benefits (I think) that I see: (1) The Throttle Cut will only activate when the throttle stick is at the lowest. Meaning if you accidentally turn on the switch while in flight, the motor will not stop until the throttle stick is at the lowest; (2) When you accidentally turn ON the switch while the throttle stick in not at the lowest, the motor won't run until you bring the throttle stick to the lowest then back up. Although, it is still affected by the throttle trim.

So, now have 2 ways to do it, it's up to us to weigh the benefits and disadvantages

Edit: Actually, both options are affected by the trim. Oh well, as long as we know of 2 ways to do it now
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Old Mar 31, 2010, 06:12 PM
どうもありがとうミスターロボット
Wrend's Avatar
United States, IL
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotpete2 View Post
Wrend,
I measured about 180Ma W/O the back lighting, and 220ish with the light.
Very good run time on my first charge, 7 3/4 hours working on the bench doing programming and learning my way around, so the backlight was on much more than normal flying.
I looked at a pack that Batteries America was selling at the WRAM show, made specific for the 8 and 12FG, using Sanyo Nimh cells at 2150Mah. The show price was 29 bucks, the normal price is about 35 bucks
Pete
Sounds good. Thanks Pete. I was hoping to make an Eneloop pack for it, but it looks like they're not the right size anyway.
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Old Mar 31, 2010, 06:33 PM
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Howey-in-the-Hills, Fl.
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I have used Futaba for many years and really enjoyed their radios. I am still flying 72, but think this is the time to go to 2.4 Looking hard at ordering the Futaba 8FG tonight. I assume most are very happy with the system?
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Old Mar 31, 2010, 07:19 PM
どうもありがとうミスターロボット
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United States, IL
Joined Jul 2009
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Definitely. I'm sure you're aware that 2.4GHz has capabilities that make it much more user friendly than 72MHz in many ways. I went from 72Mhz to 2.4GHz with the 6EX. Capable radio, but pretty basic and I quickly outgrew it. The 8FG has everything I need in a radio and more at a very reasonable price for what I got. In my opinion, the 8FG is Futaba's best bang-for-the-buck radio at the moment. I wholeheartedly recommend getting one.
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Old Mar 31, 2010, 08:27 PM
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United States, OH, Groveport
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I really like it. I had a Spektrum DX6i before, which was a good basic radio, but the 8fg is a lot more flexible. I had a hard time deciding what to get when I decided I was ready to upgrade my radio, and the JR 9503 seemed like a logical choice. I also looked at the Aurora 9. I think with all 3 there are trade-offs in one department or another. I went with the 8FG because I felt like it had more flexibility than the JR, and I couldn't find an A9 anywhere, let alone any Hitec receivers. From what I gather they are still in short supply. I figured with Futaba I would have a better chance of being able to go to the LHS and get a receiver in a pinch. Once the speed numbers were released for the A9 that as the final nail in the coffin for me. There is a lot of argument over radio latency not mattering, but ultimately I couldn't go with a new, "better" radio that was slower than the DX6i.
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Old Mar 31, 2010, 09:01 PM
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How does the link function in a mix work? As usual the manual says 'there it is' but does not explain anything.
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Old Apr 01, 2010, 12:59 PM
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United States, FL, Miramar
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekir View Post
I have used Futaba for many years and really enjoyed their radios. I am still flying 72, but think this is the time to go to 2.4 Looking hard at ordering the Futaba 8FG tonight. I assume most are very happy with the system?

I own the 12FG and 8FG but I use the 8FG more, very good radio. If you get it you can get an extra receiver for $10.00 more and $60.00 off from TH if you are a club member.
http://towerhobbies.com/products/futaba/futk8000m.html

Doug.
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Old Apr 01, 2010, 05:53 PM
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Chandler, AZ
Joined Dec 2008
187 Posts
Eneloop battery pack for 8FG

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrend View Post
Sounds good. Thanks Pete. I was hoping to make an Eneloop pack for it, but it looks like they're not the right size anyway.
I don't understand. Why are they not the right size. I would like to make an Eneloop pack for my 8FG.
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Old Apr 01, 2010, 06:08 PM
どうもありがとうミスターロボット
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United States, IL
Joined Jul 2009
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The cells in the stock pack aren't AA sized. They're a little shorter and wider.
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Old Apr 02, 2010, 11:38 AM
どうもありがとうミスターロボット
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United States, IL
Joined Jul 2009
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Last night I loosened up the sticks as far as they'll go without having any slack and previously I had lowered them as far as they'll go as well. I'm a thumber that prefers subtle movement over slamming the sticks from one end to the other. I also tend to use a lot less expo than most people, and often none at all.

The sticks feel great now. Very smooth and precise. The throttle ratchet has just the right amount of tension and is also perfectly uniform. I had also noticed that all the throws on all the stick axes, dials, and sliders were perfectly centered and calibrated between +100% and -100%.

I haven't said it before, but I really appreciate the level of craftsmanship that went into this radio. If you're listening, thanks Futaba!
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Old Apr 02, 2010, 01:52 PM
どうもありがとうミスターロボット
Wrend's Avatar
United States, IL
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougV View Post
Well, I have 7 electrics right now on the 8FG, throttle trims at 0 (default) and end points at 100. When my throttle stick is all the way down the prop stops, I use the throttle cut so I don't bumb the stick by mistake, it works good for me and for about 7 other users at my field.

Whatever works for you is good.

Regards,
Doug.

Yeah, same here. I also have the throttle cut assigned to the SF switch.

To help clarify:

You can use the position setting in the throttle cut menu to set where the throttle cut goes to when you activate it. I set mine to 17% which is the same as the +100% on the throttle channel for me, because I have my throttle channel revered, but it doesn't matter if the throttle channel is revered or not because it sets it in the system before it reverses the output signal. Other than the display on the right, you can more accurately tell where you want to set it by hooking up a servo to the throttle channel and seeing if it moves at all between full down throttle and activation of the throttle cut. If you have the throttle cut set lower than full down throttle on the throttle stick, it can lower the throttle calibration setting on your ESCs, starting the motor when you turn the throttle cut off even if the throttle stick is all the way down. So be careful to avoid that.

What the throttle cut does is prevent you from accidentally increasing the throttle from full down throttle, but if you have your stick at a throttle setting higher than idle, it wont cut it so that you don't accidentally flip a switch and cut your throttle in flight. It works hand-in-hand with my ESCs which wont let my motors start if I'm not at full down throttle. And when you power up the 8FG, it also gives you a warning, asking if you want to transmit if you have the throttle cut activated.
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Old Apr 02, 2010, 04:43 PM
どうもありがとうミスターロボット
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJM-Maxx View Post
How does the link function in a mix work?
Alright, this is more difficult to explain than to set up (probably why no one has bothered to explain it yet). Basically what it does is let you link one mix to another, or multiple other mixes. The + or - setting lets you either positively or negatively mix two or more mixes.

So for example, If you had one mix with ailerons as the master and rudder as the slave, and had another mix with rudder as the master and elevator as the slave (assuming for the purposes of this explanation that you don't have a V mix between the rudder and elevator, because that will limit the elevator's travel to only one direction while using the rudder), you could set the rudder link setting in the first mix to + and the rudder link setting in the second mix to + so that when you moved the ailerons you would also be moving the elevator. You can switch either one of the two + to - to reverse the way the elevator moves when you move the ailerons. If you have both of the two link settings as - then it will not reverse the way they are linked (or rather it will double reverse it and make it positive again ).

The link setting is a powerful mixing function that allows you to mix multiple mixes positively and/or negatively, and can save you from taking up more mix allotments that you would have to otherwise use.
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Old Apr 02, 2010, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrend View Post
Alright, this is more difficult to explain than to set up (probably why no one has bothered to explain it yet). Basically what it does is let you link one mix to another, or multiple other mixes. The + or - setting lets you either positively or negatively mix two or more mixes.

So for example, If you had one mix with ailerons as the master and rudder as the slave, and had another mix with rudder as the master and elevator as the slave (assuming for the purposes of this explanation that you don't have a V mix between the rudder and elevator, because that will limit the elevator's travel to only one direction while using the rudder), you could set the rudder link setting in the first mix to + and the rudder link setting in the second mix to + so that when you moved the ailerons you would also be moving the elevator. You can switch either one of the two + to - to reverse the way the elevator moves when you move the ailerons. If you have both of the two link settings as - then it will not reverse the way they are linked (or rather it will double reverse it and make it positive again ).

The link setting is a powerful mixing function that allows you to mix multiple mixes positively and/or negatively, and can save you from taking up more mix allotments that you would have to otherwise use.
From your description, I understand the concept of linking mixes. But, do I create two conventional mixes as per your examples and link them together? I did not understand how I save mix allotments.
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Old Apr 02, 2010, 06:46 PM
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USA, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJM-Maxx View Post
How does the link function in a mix work? As usual the manual says 'there it is' but does not explain anything.
I have not used the link function in my aircraft yet on my 8FG, but I did back on my 9CHP and I assume it works along the same lines.

On the 9C, link always referred to the master channel of a mix, with link disabled, it would use the raw stick inputs from that channel to mix to the slave (other mixes that use that master channel as their slave would not be sum mixed in and handed off to the slave channel), with link enabled, it would use the final output value of that channel (including the values of all other mixes that use that channel as a slave).

I think an example would work best (this will be exaggerated of course):

pmix1 (rudder to aileron at +50%)
pmix2 (aileron to elevator at +50%)

Now, move the rudder stick full over, and the aileron stick to half deflection.

With link OFF in pmix2, the ailerons would be full over 100%, and the elevator would move 25% (50% of half aileron deflection) as it's only getting it's feed from pmix2

With link ON in pmix2, the ailerons would still be full over 100%, and now the elevator would move 50% (ailerons moved by the stick 50% + pmix1 causing the ailerons to move 50% more, then that 100% deflection sum total being mixed through pmix2 to the elevator).

I hope that helps in understanding it, like I said that's how it worked on the 9CHP series, I have not used link in the 8FG.

On a radio with mixes that didn't have link capability (sum handoff of previous mixes), you would have to use an additional mix to generate the same effect (in the example above, it would be pmix3: rudder to elevator at +25%).

Here's another answer to that from Futaba: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9590283 (so it seems on the 8FG, that the + and - in relation to link, are about whether it sums on the input, or sums to the output, that's some neat extra functionality IMHO)

-Kai
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