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Old Apr 26, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Question regarding setting up a timer...

With respect to motor cut/kill switch setup, is there a way to assign timer so it does not start regardless of throttle stick position when the kill switch is on?

I can't figure out if there is a logic switch setup to do this?
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 12:56 PM
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With the newer firmware update, when you set the function into Motor it will ask you if you whether that Ch will reversed or normal. It's only for Airplane and not yet available for Helis.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 12:56 PM
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Yes you can use the hardware reverse, it is a powerful new feature. Unfortunately it makes the heli pitch curves upside down and though they continue to work fine, they are confusing to use. And now with FW5.0 the "motor" channel defaults to REV so you'd have to un-reverse it.

It does seem that Futaba is finally getting the hint though and hopefully the 18MZ will be the last model to come off the line with a backwards throttle.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 01:58 PM
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I do try to reverse stick function instead of the servo reverse. The down side was the alarm goes on with stick down so you need tu turned off and for me the trotle alarm is a most have. Ho knows what other thing.may affect. Inmediatly i switch to normal again.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jseeker101 View Post
Question regarding setting up a timer...

With respect to motor cut/kill switch setup, is there a way to assign timer so it does not start regardless of throttle stick position when the kill switch is on?

I can't figure out if there is a logic switch setup to do this?
I am pretty sure that you cannot use logic switches in this situation.

One option is to assign as the timer reset switch the same switch you are using for motor kill. This will not stop the timer running if the throttle stick is advanced but it will reset the timer to zero when your motor goes live. I know it's not quite what you are asking for but it may help.

Personally I use the momentary SH switch as a timer reset. This allows me to do all my engine checks and then easily reset the timer immediately before take-off. It all depends on what you are using the timer to measure.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 01:14 AM
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Remember you 2 timer option plus model timer
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 09:08 AM
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Thanks. I am using timer to measure lipo usage. Meaning... when to land. I normal don't have this conflict. Just in some cases, I would need to kill switch, but I bump throttle and the timer is running. I loose track how much more time I have left in a the pack. Annoying that's all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MalcolmHolt View Post
I am pretty sure that you cannot use logic switches in this situation.

One option is to assign as the timer reset switch the same switch you are using for motor kill. This will not stop the timer running if the throttle stick is advanced but it will reset the timer to zero when your motor goes live. I know it's not quite what you are asking for but it may help.

Personally I use the momentary SH switch as a timer reset. This allows me to do all my engine checks and then easily reset the timer immediately before take-off. It all depends on what you are using the timer to measure.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jseeker101 View Post
Thanks. I am using timer to measure lipo usage. Meaning... when to land. I normal don't have this conflict. Just in some cases, I would need to kill switch, but I bump throttle and the timer is running. I loose track how much more time I have left in a the pack. Annoying that's all.
@jseeker: In the past I had the same problem.

So, what I did was to use SF to activate my timer while SH to reset my timer. At the same time, I use SF for my motor kill switch for my electric planes and as my Throttle Hold switch for my electric Helis.

Therefore, once SF is ON, the timer and motor are OFF; once SF is OFF, the timer and motor are ON.

It made everything simpler for me.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 03:55 PM
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Antenna installation

My R6106HFC Rx came with an sheet called "Tips on installing and using 2.4ghz Fast receivers". It recommends that you not "secure the antenna directly by the end of the coax lead so that the bare antenna could vibrate and possibly fail. It advises that you secure the coax 1 or 2 cm from the end of the coax so that so that the final part is free to flex." An alternative is to secure the antenna in a "snake sleeve" and shows a diagram of the bare antenna inside a clear tube secured 1 or 2 cm back on the coax. This was new news to me since the 8GF manual didn't mention where the coax/antennas should or should not be supported - only talking about keeping the antennas far apart as possible and 90 deg to one another.

Question: is the "snake sleeve" the 1/8" OD clear plastic tube hobby shops sell as antenna tubing?

For ease of moving a Rx from one plane to another, I have two formed antenna tubes installed in each plane that automatically routes the coax to desired shapes so the bare antennas end up 90 deg to one another. But the antenna tubes end where the coax ends so the bare antennas are unsupported. The last thing I want is to lose range because the antennas are inside tubing...

Question: Should I add another section of antenna tubing to each end so that the bare antennas are now supported (but inside tubing)?

Thanks,
Tony

Sorry about the long rant...
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:18 PM
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It doesn't matter if the antennas are in tubes, out of tubes, or what kind of tubes. Just don't have anything starting/ending right where the antenna changes diameter as it may cause a kink-fracture right at the most fragile spot.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by vespa View Post
It doesn't matter if the antennas are in tubes, out of tubes, or what kind of tubes. Just don't have anything starting/ending right where the antenna changes diameter as it may cause a kink-fracture right at the most fragile spot.
Thanks Vespa. That sums it up nicely.

Tony
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by vespa View Post
It doesn't matter if the antennas are in tubes, out of tubes, or what kind of tubes. Just don't have anything starting/ending right where the antenna changes diameter as it may cause a kink-fracture right at the most fragile spot.
not exactly correct but generally correct for instance a carbon tube would be very bad don't use a carbon tube just about anything else though is fine
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 05:12 PM
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Yes of course, but hopefully everyone knows about metal and carbon by this point. It's worth noting however that white fiberglass or brown phenolic tubes are fine but not black fiberglass as it contains carbon pigment.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Yes of course, but hopefully everyone knows about metal and carbon by this point. It's worth noting however that white fiberglass or brown phenolic tubes are fine but not black fiberglass as it contains carbon pigment.
yah except everyone doesn't know which is why I thought I would mention it
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 03:35 AM
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Joined Oct 2010
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Hi, Is there any reason why I "can't" use the S Bus plug for the battery conection. All 8ch are taken up and I don't really want to use a Y lead for the battery, It's much neater anyway. Peter.
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