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Old Feb 14, 2010, 02:47 PM
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NL
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sliders

[QUOTE=TooSLow2Care;14347903]here is my progress so far:

Great stuff; Are you a professional documentor or a teacher?

Anyway, have you considered taking bits off of the surrounding cover? Especially at the extremes the slider button sinks about 2 or 3 mm under the surface. So I'm thinking to just take my Micromot and remove the edges fro the backplate.

It won't be as pretty as what I think you're going for....
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 05:16 PM
TKNA
Joined Apr 2007
13 Posts
Thanks for the response but I totally understand the the reasoning behind the double and single tap on the sensor switch and it still does not respond correctly on the INITIAL taps i.e., on the Link, mdl, s1, & sys. Once I get in, it works properly. It is the initial start that does not repond immediately at times and sometimes it works just fine. I have even put the TX flat on the bench and tapped the sensor and it will still act the same as when I am holding it with my left hand and tapping with the right.
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 07:40 PM
North Simcoe Flyers
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Midland, Ontario, Canada
Joined May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Man View Post
When I first got my 8FGH tried several SD cards that I had and found that some work and some donít. They were all a couple of years old. Not really sure what the magic specifications are that determine whether it will work or not.

RC Man,

Did you ever get the idle down and throttle cut figured out? I programmed up one of my planes with these features and pretty much as I described earlier.
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 08:19 PM
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Krelis: I'm not a documentor or a teacher. I'm a mechanical engineer with extensive training in CAD software suites for a medical product company, with my bachelors degree in federal law enforcement and a minor in psychology. I also share a love for all things radio control.

Krelis: I fear that removing material from the rear cover might be a little extreme / destroy the appearance of the radio's covering / create holes for dirt and other foreign material to enter the radio and damage the electronics.

my Progress in SolidWorks is to the point where i have a rough model and i'll be posting screenshots for people to view by the end of day tomorrow. (hopefully) then I'll generate my toolpath and get run it on the mill in my basement to get my part. should be within a week.

depending on how these turn out and the length of machine time i'll try and produce a bunch of them and sell them for shipping and material cost, should anyone want them.

cheers
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Old Feb 14, 2010, 09:01 PM
Wind Happens
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imo the slider mod should be reversible, hacking the case is not a solution for me.
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 10:05 AM
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Pittsburgh Allegheny, Pennsylvania, United States
Joined Mar 2004
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Could you just glue a small piece of rubber on the end of the slider? I don't have one yet to check so I'm just guessing. I won't have mine till after Toledo.
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 03:40 PM
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taps

Quote:
Originally Posted by tkna View Post
I have even put the TX flat on the bench and tapped the sensor and it will still act the same as when I am holding it with my left hand and tapping with the right.
I can emulate this behaviour! If I wet my finger slightly the control becomes slightly unpredictable; e.g only one tab of the double tab is logged (I can tell as the backlight switches on), sometimes total numbness, ie zero response.

Ambient humidity 45%. With a dry finger 100% reliable, double taps with close to a second in between are even ok

Hope this takes you a little further?
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 03:50 PM
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NL
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slider

[QUOTE=TooSLow2Care;14351660]Krelis: I'm not a documentor... Interesting ppl one meets with an 8FG; I used to be a computer programmer with a degree in Marketing.... (not half as useful as your skillset I'm afraid)

That's why I would like to be first in line for a set of special sliders if I can afford them. We might even do some crossposting on the European fora if you wanna make a business of it.....
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 10:38 PM
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Bigslopegrin - i agree 100% that making the sliders more usable should be reversible. that's why in about 3 minutes from now, i'll have a post with my SW part that can be interchanged at will with the original Futaba ones.

Krelis - I don't think i'd be making a business out of making these. i'd probably end up just making a batch every few weekends and letting people know when they are available, and how many sets i have on hand.

more to come shortly.
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 10:49 PM
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a little time on SW goes a long way

so this is what i've come up with so far. the knurled tab that would be the contact point for our fingers has been extended to 10.50mm rather than the 7.50mm of the stock slider.

so here a few images of it.
1: front
2: back
3: side
4: top
5: bottom (notice the 1/4mm deep notches for slider 'feel' or 'placement'. this might be the most difficult part to machine due to the size)
6: & 7: two isometric images for reference.








BEWARE OF CAD VISION - seeing things larger than they appear on a computer screen gives a false sense of dimension.

the major diameter of this part is only 26.5mm or just over 1.000inches. I use metric due to the fact that Futaba uses metric.
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 11:24 PM
North Simcoe Flyers
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Midland, Ontario, Canada
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I think that extra 3mm should be perfect!
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 07:56 AM
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Is the 10C one the same?
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greybird View Post
Is the 10C one the same?
No they are not.


also, i was thinking that 5mm would be a bit better for the tab length of these sliders. Below is an images showing my calipers spaced at 5mm against the righthand slider (RS)
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Old Feb 16, 2010, 06:26 PM
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[QUOTE=TooSLow2Care;14368724]No they are not.
[
also, i was thinking that 5mm would be a bit better ...

I wonder why Futaba sort of hid these sliders; Inadverted movement when putting th tx on the ground is unlikely. It does give some control if your finger touches the slider and the surroundings a bit. Of course this balance is gone at the extremes. So my vote would be 3mm.

Keep it going, I'm fascinated!
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Old Feb 18, 2010, 01:07 PM
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USA, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2004
4,205 Posts
On the sliders on my 8FGH, I just tweaked the tension on them to my liking when I was adjusting the gimbal tensions (they are held in place captured between the front and back casing, they slide out easily with the back off the case, no additional screws to remove to get to the pawl). About 2 minutes with a small flat screwdriver was all it took.

On another note, I changed the way I use the user configurable timers on my 8FGH last night at my indoor club, instead of having one up, one down, I now have both set to count up. Timer 2 I use for tracking the individual flight, and Timer 1 I use for a cumulative airborne timer (both I have set to be active when I am in idleup1 or higher).

The reason I'm making this change, is that the timer "memory" function of this TX, allows me to setup maintenance intervals based upon actual flight time, not just how long the model has been selected (built in "model" timers in all radios are pretty much useless to me). I often have to wait for a spot on the flightline with the model all hooked up, and I don't want to base maintenance intervals on all that downtime, not to mention just tweaking and tuning or showing people the menus counting against it.

I used to be able to track how many cycles I put on battery packs, but after switching to Hyperion G3 packs and charging at high C rates (up to 5C, I charge between 3C and 4C), I fly so much when I'm out that I keep losing track of cycles.

Just last night, with 7 aircraft with me, in a 4 hour indoor flying session, I put over 30 minutes of airtime onto my Ricco SE (not bad since there were over a dozen other flyers there, and I was actually flying my planes most of the time).

Edit: darnit, I'm an idiot for some reason I thought it had an extra set of numbers (it doesn't do hours), guess I'll have to log by hour to a log book. Then again, that's still easier than by cycles for me, it means I only have to log once or twice per time I'm out flying.

-Kai
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Last edited by Kai_Shiden; Feb 18, 2010 at 01:55 PM.
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