Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Aug 18, 2009, 08:35 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Matt,
Is that a bell motor with small radial mount? If so, I always screw the radial mount to the ply mount, get the model built around it as much as possible and then slip in the motor and tighten the grub screw that holds it in the mount.
As regards thrust lines, I have, upon more than one occasion, been known to taper the ply disc (MA) and glue it to the firewall at such an angle as to provide the correct thrust angles - narrow part of the taper at 225 degrees from vertical should do it. That's looking from the front, of course.

Pete
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Old Aug 18, 2009, 08:45 AM
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Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE
Matt,
Is that a bell motor with small radial mount? If so, I always screw the radial mount to the ply mount, get the model built around it as much as possible and then slip in the motor and tighten the grub screw that holds it in the mount.
As regards thrust lines, I have, upon more than one occasion, been known to taper the ply disc (MA) and glue it to the firewall at such an angle as to provide the correct thrust angles - narrow part of the taper at 225 degrees from vertical should do it. That's looking from the front, of course.

Pete
This would be the motor in question http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5112
Brushless Outrunner TowerPro2409-18 1000kv / 180W

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Old Aug 18, 2009, 11:35 AM
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Norfolk, England
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That's the sort of thing. The flange on the back is the radial mount.
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Old Aug 18, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Queanbeyan, NSW,Australia
Joined Jul 2009
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Progress

So an interupted evening in the Shed has seen me complete the wink sanding and cut, secure and glue the first of the centre section strut assemblies. Just need to put together the second and I can put the other plan sheet onto the building board and get started with the fuze.

Ian B
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 03:54 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
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Looking very nice - I always enjoy making wings..I even like to cut ribs!

That motor should be quite ample power, I have one myself but haven't used it yet as I have 2408-21 motors. The price of these things is now virtually giveaway; my LHS sells them with a 20a ESC, prop adaptor and free prop for £9.99. Was paying that for the motor alone a few years ago.

For thrust angles on those motors - and the ones with an X shaped backplate - I just stick a small washer under one of the bolts, between motor and former to give down/right thrust.

Steve
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 07:58 AM
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I finally burned up my first Towerpro motor. How? Get it really hot by running at 180W for most of a flight, then land on a water soaked runway finished by nosing over is the water puddle at the side of the runway!

The only weak link I've seen on any of them is bearing issues, and, they are easily fixed.

When I know what thrust line I want I do as Pete and angle the mount. It can be 'fine tuned' with washers.

Ian, I did like the 105 gun, but, I do like the German 120 rather than separate ammo like the Brit version. I loved the .50cal on the M60, even though many had trouble with them. Was sorry to see it go.

charlie
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozybard
So an interupted evening in the Shed has seen me complete the wink sanding and cut, secure and glue the first of the centre section strut assemblies. Just need to put together the second and I can put the other plan sheet onto the building board and get started with the fuze.

Ian B
I don't have the plans in front of me. Do we know how high our wing tips should be off the table when dihedral is properly set? I had to spend yesterday painting the first of three rooms and acquiring new wood floors, so didn't get to cut my spars.
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 11:47 AM
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Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbaron25
That motor should be quite ample power, I have one myself but haven't used it yet as I have 2408-21 motors. The price of these things is now virtually giveaway; my LHS sells them with a 20a ESC, prop adaptor and free prop for £9.99. Was paying that for the motor alone a few years ago.

For thrust angles on those motors - and the ones with an X shaped backplate - I just stick a small washer under one of the bolts, between motor and former to give down/right thrust.

Steve
Yes, should be more than enough power, and I'll probably fly a small 3S (don't own any 2S) so will need to go easy on the throttle for sure. Even with shipping, I'm shocked by how cheap these motors are. I'm used to dropping $50+ at my LHS. I bought this motor, speed controller, all three wheels, fasteners, axles, and a little plastic parts bin for just over $40...INCLUDING shipping! While I always prefer to support my LHS, there are times when the deals are simply too good. In this case, I also wanted to use the motor type specified by Pete, so that just added to my rationalization.
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 06:21 PM
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.75" dihedral under each tip.
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 06:53 PM
Fugative Pom
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Queanbeyan, NSW,Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoffboy
I don't have the plans in front of me. Do we know how high our wing tips should be off the table when dihedral is properly set? I had to spend yesterday painting the first of three rooms and acquiring new wood floors, so didn't get to cut my spars.
Matt

Extending the angle defined by the taper of B1 and B2 to the wing tip sets the wing tip height from the bench top 13/16 inch (21mm). Judging by all of the photographs i've looked at of this little gem, that dihedral may be a little out of scale but I guess being a RET model that won't hurt.
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Old Aug 20, 2009, 01:45 AM
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R2

It could be sleep deprivation, but before I get all carried away with glue in the center section, I'm curious about two things:
  1. What's supposed to fill the aft part of the cutouts in R2. They appear to be too large for just the spars.
  2. Should the aft spar extend into R2 or butt up against it? The knockout would suggest it penetrates R2, but perhaps the answer to 1 explains the void.
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Last edited by hoffboy; Aug 20, 2009 at 01:51 AM.
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Old Aug 20, 2009, 02:46 AM
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Norfolk, England
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Matt,
Yes, the rear spar does extend into R2 - even if the line didn't. It does now however.
As regards the cut away area behind the spars, once the outer panels and pieces of 1/8x1/4 are in place, they will form the sockets for the c/s struts to glue into.

Pete
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Old Aug 20, 2009, 10:03 AM
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Olympia, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERRAKE
Matt,
Yes, the rear spar does extend into R2 - even if the line didn't. It does now however.
As regards the cut away area behind the spars, once the outer panels and pieces of 1/8x1/4 are in place, they will form the sockets for the c/s struts to glue into.

Pete
Ha! (slaps forehead) I was looking side-to-side for something to fill that void in R2, but neglected to consider what might be entering from below, like a cabane strut. There's a life lesson buried in here somewhere. Thanks for clarifying. All spars and ribs are cut, so tonight the glue comes out. Going to attempt this with magnets.
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Old Aug 21, 2009, 01:25 AM
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Olympia, WA
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Center Section glued up

After installing wood floors in 1/3 of a big bedroom tonight, the wife let me knock off and glue up the center section before bed. I didn't like my spars (came out of my stripper wavy) so I popped over to my LHS today and picked up a few factory cut sticks. Even if it would have had no effect on looks or performance, I would have known and it would have driven me nuts. Plus, nice straight and true sticks are just so much easier to work with.

Anyone have a tip for stripping basswood straight? I'm thinking of investing in one of those micro table saws. Don't tell my wife.
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Old Aug 21, 2009, 02:42 AM
Fugative Pom
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Queanbeyan, NSW,Australia
Joined Jul 2009
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G'Day Matt

I have a small (Chinese Manufacture of course) Band Saw. Set up a decent "Rip Fence" and it does a great job. More versatile than a mini circular saw as ya can do profile cuts, cross cuts and ripping. I have used it to pack cut wing ribs in the past. Highly recommended tool for the dedicated model maker. I promise I won't tell your wife as long as you don't tell mine about the mini milling machine I bought
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