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Old Aug 02, 2009, 09:22 PM
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Patmat:

That hollow part is perfect for 3D printing. BTW I appreciate your craftsmanship in drawing it. I know that is not easy.

Charles
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Old Aug 02, 2009, 09:28 PM
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Pat make sure you give your wall thickness at least 1mm in some areas.
I find molds for thin parts seem to sort of collapse or crush thin areas so
that no resin can fill the void.

A good bit of putty and sanding should clean up any terracing on the curved parts.
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Old Aug 02, 2009, 11:26 PM
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Haaa!!!! $1.43!!!! F "craftsmanship"!!!

I know drawing this stuff well takes serious skill!
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Old Aug 02, 2009, 11:57 PM
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Laser Cut Deck

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsenecal
I write computer software for a living, so the last thing i want to do is corrupt my hobby, I don't want it to become an extension of work... i want it to be fun.

I have however, at one time, used adobe illustrator to draw the layout for a really nice laser cut deck for my type II, because I knew that a hand cut version would look like crap.
How would I go about creating a cad drawing for laser cutting the deck on a SSY 1/32 scale Type IX-C sub deck.I have the 1/32nd scale SSY blueprint and can transfer it to a cd.I also have the Fritz Kohl blueprint on a cd.I have at my disposal several laser and waterjet shops.
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Old Aug 03, 2009, 05:12 AM
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Umi- at that price, why bother molding it?
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Old Aug 03, 2009, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patmat2350
Umi- at that price, why bother molding it?
Because you will have to fill the ridges every time you print a piece.
Easier to fix one, then use that as the master.

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Old Aug 05, 2009, 03:16 AM
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told my neighbor about this...said he was printing a part as we stood there talking(though he did allow that the print job would finish about 3am) he did have some words of advice; 1) make sure your resolution is high enough(else your round things may turn out octagonal) 2) when scaling things down there is a limit how thin you parts can be(he's had parts that never made it out of the printer before they collapsed under their own weight)
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Old Aug 05, 2009, 05:16 AM
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yep & yep.
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Old Aug 05, 2009, 12:38 PM
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The 3d printer here lays down a support material as it prints the part.
All the open areas are filled with a brown support media that needs to
be dissolved away in a lye bath after the part is printed.

So the parts can be printed at any angle, Ideally oriented to
produce the fewest amount of ridges in the printing process.

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Old Aug 06, 2009, 04:53 PM
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OK, here's my first sample, from PrintaPart. Everything as I expected, but I'm not happy with their price... if the Shapeways parts are as good, it will be no contest.

The anchor is 38mm (1.5") wide. It was made standing on fluke's edge, though I would get strata on the tapered flukes' faces in any orientation. Started to file a fluke's spear point and sanded a face-- all went very easily. PaP says this resin has the consistency of "a ballpark cup", which is typically a rather pliable HDPE (hi density polyethylene)... I was worried about that, but this stuff is quite a bit more rigid and sandable than HDPE... whew.
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Old Aug 06, 2009, 08:23 PM
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Looking good Pat. You are making all the craftsmen jealous.
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Old Aug 06, 2009, 08:55 PM
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I'm still envious of the guys who can do good looking brass work...
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Old Aug 06, 2009, 11:44 PM
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Looks very nice. Seems they chose a printer, and
media that would give you the smoothest piece.

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Old Aug 07, 2009, 05:46 AM
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Yes, I think it will work... but PaP has ONE printer and media choice, and no way to specify part orientation.

Shapeways offers a range of materials.
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Old Aug 07, 2009, 06:56 AM
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Pat, Thanks for posting this thread. I'm looking forward to seeing what the other part looks like! The possibilities of this technology are really exciting!

The "cheating" argument is a non-starter. You've created a one off accurate detail part instead of using a incorrectly sized commercial part. This is just one more tool in the rivet-counters toolbox!
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