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Old Aug 09, 2009, 08:13 PM
This stuff is too cool!
Shark_330's Avatar
Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 2009
49 Posts
Nice Outlaw 7.5 Run with Mods.

Here a quick video of my Outlaw running with the new pipe. I moved to 20% nitro and still working on the optimum length for my pipe. I have it a tad rich in the video but she is moving out pretty nice. This boat handles very well. Even when you get it out of shape running a little loose it still wants to stay in control, just have to back out of it a little bit.

Raced it today with the pipe shortened just a little bit more. I have it 10.75" from the glow plug following the bend in the header to the fat part of the pipe seam. I am running it w/out the silencer. It just sounds cooler and is easier to hear the final tune. Took two first place finishes in our NAMBA District 20 races today.

Thunder Tiger Outlaw 7.5 Run with Mods 8 8 09 (4 min 21 sec)
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Old Aug 09, 2009, 09:47 PM
Studying Engineer
MarcRacer18's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Barbara
Joined Jun 2009
685 Posts
Wow two first place finishes in a slightly modified rtr amazing! The engine seems to be pushing some high rpm's real fast out of the turns, maby needs a bigger prop!

Was that with or without the clutch? Either way it Looks and sounds cooooooooool!!!!
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Old Aug 10, 2009, 10:26 AM
This stuff is too cool!
Shark_330's Avatar
Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 2009
49 Posts
Right now I am still using the clutch. It seems to be getting loose and I think the clutch bell bearings are going south. I don't see it lasting much longer. I will go direct drive when that happens. I want to try an X447 two blade on it next. Yeah, the first two races went well, then I got cut off by another boat and my Outlaw rode his roost and flipped/blew over on my third race. Check www.namba20.com on the results I'm Bryan in B-mono. It takes them a while to post the results. I like the boat very much. Awesome machine for an RTR. Can't wait to get a hotter motor in it like a Mac or CMB. It's a nice fast hull. It was kind of windy and choppy on our track but the Outlaw did just fine. I couldn't even run my .21 hydro it just pickled.

Thanks for the comments and props.
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Old Aug 14, 2009, 01:09 PM
This stuff is too cool!
Shark_330's Avatar
Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 2009
49 Posts
Yes, the clutch bell bearings are gone. Don't let it run like that too long because it will trash the flywheel nut as well. Mine isn't too bad but I should replace it. It just so happened that I had two 5x10 bearings in my car racing tool box. If you want to keep using the stock clutch be sure to keep a close eye on it. The aluminum shoes wear and mushroom over pretty bad. Nothing a quick shot on the belt sander didn't take care of. Also, make sure there isn't a rusty build up on the shoe pivot pins that could cause a shoe to hang and wear prematurely. Mine did have some rust on those pins. I cleaned that up with steel wool and oil. One last thing, don't over tighten the bolt that holds on the clutch bell. I think that is how I trashed my bearings in the first place but not sure. This time I used a dab of red loctite and gently snugged the bolt. I like the clutch concept but if you want to keep running the stock one; put it on a strict PM schedule otherwise it will trash itself with hard running. I understand parts on this are hard to come by.
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Old Aug 21, 2009, 10:35 PM
This stuff is too cool!
Shark_330's Avatar
Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 2009
49 Posts
Well, I have really found the winning combination for the Outlaw 7.5. I have the clutch repaired and working the way it should. I upgraded the 5x10 bearings from the folks at Boca Bearing. Even though the ones I had were just fine I decided to go with bearings that can handle heat and high rpm much better. I have the motor running on 40% O'Donnells with a cold plug. The motor actually seems to run cooler and a heck of a lot stronger. I also decided to play with props a little bit. I tried an X448 and a Prather 235. The 448 seemed to run the same as the 447-3 maybe a little faster in the straights but slower in the turns so lap times were close to the same. Now, as for the 235 it was horrible, just couldn't get up on the pipe what so ever. One of my fellow racers suggested to take off the tongues on the 235. So I thought, couldn't hurt it any. Let me tell you that with approximately 1/8th inch off the tongues that prop really lit up the Outlaw. It was running so quick that my boat actually blew over! Thankfully, no damage and after giving the pond it's water back I brought the tabs down just a bit and went with a flatter thrust angle. I'll try to get another video of the new set up. She's running really guick now.
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Old Aug 21, 2009, 10:58 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,933 Posts
If you look at the dimensions between Octura and Prather props, may appear to be close ot the same but the difference is that Octura's a progressive pitched and Prather's have a constant pitch.
I'd love to be there the next time that you race it as it sounds like the boat has turned into a real sleeper! Let `em snicker until you blow them away!
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Old Aug 21, 2009, 11:08 PM
Studying Engineer
MarcRacer18's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Barbara
Joined Jun 2009
685 Posts
Hmm, take 1/8 inch off the prather props makes for a much faster boat then stock? I might need to try this out for myself.

I'll take a maden/post 10 sec run tomowor then try takeing 1/8 off of one of my brass props. If it'll do what you say it will then my ol motor might make it into a race after all.

If you can get a highspeed/high quality video of the tiger flip'n would be nice. Would be one hell of a good shot. The rest just a couple straigt-a-ways and turns would be all necesary. (Maby some good music in the backround to).
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Old Aug 22, 2009, 12:08 AM
Registered User
Madera , Calif.
Joined Jul 2007
402 Posts
when working with your props try using a caliper to even out your work.

Good Luck,
USMC & Viking...! & Little Jack...!

here's a pic of a Prather SS-215 on my K&B outboard
(piston & slevee are modded)
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Last edited by USMC & Viking; Aug 22, 2009 at 12:24 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 10:49 PM
This stuff is too cool!
Shark_330's Avatar
Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 2009
49 Posts
Outlaw Mods

First off, thanks guys for all your responses. I really appreciate your inputs and suggestions. I am an avid giant scale aerobatics guy and boating is something to help me take a break from flying. Me being me, I have to take everything to the extreme as I am sure you guys do to. I don't think anyone can be in the hobby and just be mediocre.

I like the caliper idea USMC! I did the eyeball thing on my 235; I figured balancing would get me the rest of the way. Calipers would have taken alot of the painstaking work out of it. What are the "dimples" or "cut outs" on the trailing edge near the hub do? I have seen that done on other guys rides especially the big gassers.

Ron, this weekend is another district 20 race before finals. I am sitting 3rd in points with the Outlaw. Hoping to close the gap if I can. Our B-mono class competition is pretty tough. I wouldn't call my Outlaw a "sleeper" yet but we'll see what next year brings. I think I have it running as best it can with the stock TT. The rails in this boat are 3 5/8" wide on the inside and 4 1/16" on the outside. Do you think I can get a regular mount to fit in there for a CMB or Mac? I see them advertised for 4" rails but not sure if they mean inside dimensions or not. Anyway, that's my plan for this boat for next year. Then we can say "sleeper"! If you have any thoughts getting a regular mount in there I'd appreciate it.

I'll get some more videos but hopefully not flipping, sorry. I'll talk Wendy into shooting this weekends B-mono race.
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 11:27 PM
Registered User
Madera , Calif.
Joined Jul 2007
402 Posts
Take a look here,
http://rcboat.com/prop.htm

http://www.rcprops.com/rcprops/h50%20collarge-2.html

http://rcprops.com/rcprops/index.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this is what I did to mine, I also removed the Tongue(acts like a brake)

Backcutting Props:
Refer to figure #3 and figure #4. Backcutting props will allow you to remove an area of the prop that loads the engine and provides little speed at the upper end of the RPM range. The area which you backcut is only effective when the prop is in its lower RPM bands. There are high engine loads at these RPM areas. Not a very desirable effect if you want to push a lot of pitch and go very fast. A short side note should be helpful here. I raced at a State Series Event in southern Indiana a few years ago and was soundly beaten by a good racer. On the way home I was trying to figure out how to reverse this result the next time we met. After pondering long and hard it was evident that I had to deliver more pitch to go faster, but with more pitch came more load to the engine. What if I removed material from the trailing edge of the prop and added more pitch to the tips and bends at A, B, C? This proved to add the MPH I needed to reverse the tables the next time. Some time later another local guy tried this back-cut by using a slightly different method. Look at figure #4 and you will see that he used a ball mill or dremel to make a round cut and accomplish the same reduction of load in the trailing edge. Both methods work very well.


Take Care,
USMC & Viking...! & Little Jack...!
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Old Aug 25, 2009, 12:37 AM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,933 Posts
Speedmaster ( www.rossisales.com ) sells motor mounts for your engine and have washers to help vary the width if your boat doesn't have the normal 4" rail spacing. A little warning though, they're made out of some tough aluminum so drill and tap carefully if you decide to buy it.
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Old Aug 25, 2009, 06:05 PM
This stuff is too cool!
Shark_330's Avatar
Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 2009
49 Posts
Ron, so the "4 inch" refers to the inside dims right?
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Old Aug 25, 2009, 10:54 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,933 Posts
Yuppers! Most rail widths are either going to be 4 or 5 inches but there are always exceptions to the rule, that's why Speedmaster has different thicknesses of spacers/washers for those instances.
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Old Aug 30, 2009, 08:01 PM
This stuff is too cool!
Shark_330's Avatar
Westminster, CO
Joined Jul 2009
49 Posts
Outlaw 7.5cc Bad news to report.

Today was our second to last District 20 event and my Outlaw didn't even get to hit the water. I had never been so ready for a race weekend with high expectations from the Outlaw.

Well, the connecting rod broke early this morning at start up for practice before the races started. Didn't over rev it or anything out of the normal and my TT motor just quit hard. Went to re-start and my belt just slipped. I took the plug out to see if it might be loaded up something and it wouldn't turn over. Right there I knew my day was done with something broken inside.

It appears the failure came from a crack that started right at the oil journal in the lower rod bearing. The cylinder sleeve is deeply scratched, crank case has some gouges and etc. The one good thing was the insides looked good as far as break-in goes. Still, very dissapointing day.

Not sure where to go from here; should I go ahead and go big time and install a CMB or Mac? Or would it be best to save some $$$ and go with an OS .46 VZM? I think I can get the OS in the stock mounts without having to tear out all the stringers and re-fab to accomodate a higher performance motor. I have to get the Outlaw into the finals to finish out my season. I may even contact Ace Hobby Distributors and see if they can help me out. This engine was not abused and I think the failure was just "one of those things". I am finding out quickly that racing boats puts high demands on engines, that's for sure. Oh, at least now, I get to get rid of the gay clutch. Overall, moving forward, the Oulaw is only going to get better.
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Old Aug 30, 2009, 10:27 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,933 Posts
Contact someone to let them know what went wrong and see if it's still under warranty.
There may be a Thunder Tiger Rep in here on the thread about their OB tunnel. It wouldn't hurt to shoot him a PM.
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