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Old Oct 10, 2009, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by johnbone
battery box removed
Ya I pulled mine out of the SU34's. So much useful space behind them.

How much Battery ??? weight do you think the FW F35 can handle? 350g?
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Old Oct 11, 2009, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle
How much Battery ??? weight do you think the FW F35 can handle? 350g?
I am flying stock setup with 340 grams of 30c 3000mAh battery. I would not put anything heavier than that with stock motor on board. It gives a max of 4:30 flight time and probably more with less throttle but I tend to use full throttle all the time with the stock system.

Freewing recommend a 2200 - 2500 mAh battery but it depends on how you fly. Doing circuits on half throttle is a bit dull.

Higher amp draw would reduce flight time so 3700 mAh would add a few more seconds if you upgrade the drive system.
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Old Oct 11, 2009, 03:50 AM
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so this is the first 360.i was undr the impression.pete was working with the company to be the first.im sure he gave it a shot
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Old Oct 11, 2009, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by johnbone
I am flying stock setup with 340 grams of 30c 3000mAh battery. I would not put anything heavier than that with stock motor on board. It gives a max of 4:30 flight time and probably more with less throttle but I tend to use full throttle all the time with the stock system.

Freewing recommend a 2200 - 2500 mAh battery but it depends on how you fly. Doing circuits on half throttle is a bit dull.

Higher amp draw would reduce flight time so 3700 mAh would add a few more seconds if you upgrade the drive system.
Well I've got the HET 6409 and a BI-3600 to go in this so I want as much battery that the plane can carry.
I don't have the batteries yet. I first started looking at if I could parallel these for the SU34 but I don't think that's a good idea. Even 2X2200 is too much for the SU34 to carry but is a shorter flight time for the F35.

I'm thinking of the Turnigy 3000mAh 4S1P 30C - Pack Weight: 346g for $40 each. Good price. Still wondering what the shipping cost will be but better than $100 from the LHS.
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Old Oct 11, 2009, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by guitaramp68
so this is the first 360.i was undr the impression.pete was working with the company to be the first.im sure he gave it a shot
Pete from Banana if you mean has the F16 360* and HL the F35 360* to be followed by the SU34 360* Not sure of any others.
They are all just becoming available over the Oct Nov months.
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 04:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle
Okay, got ya. So In high alpha where the ailerons become less affective the Tailerons become more responsive as they are closer to level with forward motion.

Its for this reason for my SU34 I put a lot of Expo to allow minimal deflection within usual stick movement for normal flight but full deflection when moving the sticks to full throws.
I was thinking more along the lines of the whole control surface moving and presenting less perpendicular area to a sliding movement. There is probably less "flat" air resistance from a horizontal stabiliator than from a horizontal tail plane/elevator combo in extremes of deflection eg in a Cobra where you want the tail to slide forward faster than the wings using up elevator and TV. Could be wrong but I think this is one of the reasons this plane does them better than the Su34.
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 03:29 PM
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I think this is one of the reasons this plane does them better than the Su34.
Oh, ya! spot on.
I was thinking this is why its rear to see a true cobra, summersalt, reverse cobra etc.
That's why I took the plung to add Tailerons to the SU34. I was working up to scratch building one and then this came along.
The F35, in this size is icing on the cake.

To bad we weren't in the same area; we could fly air combat SU34 vs F35 scenerio. I hear that a topic that your ministry of defence has great concern over.
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 02:51 AM
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My first 360 conversion. It may not be how I end up doing this. The first one always give rise to other ideas.

1. Mark both sides of the nozzle so you have a reference position similar to the top and bottom marks for setup purposes.
2. Split the inner ring on one side. If you can't do this without too much effort - give up.
3. Cut access holes in the foam on either side of the nozzle at the mid line.
4. Cut off the caps on the inner nozzle swivel pins. They protrude from the side of the outer ring.
5. Remove the inner ring by slipping one side of the split over the other at the split.
6. Source a metal ball joint base.
7. Mark and enlarge/slot the holes where the pivot pins were located in the outer ring. Use a needle file to smooth and make sure they just fit the ball joint base with no tightness or slop.
8. Drill both sides of the inner ring to take a screw to hold the metal ball joint bases.
9. Fix one ball base to the unsplit side of the inner ring and lock its screw with ca glue. You do not want this to come undone in flight.
10. Fit the inner ring back in the outer ring, mate the split side using some ca glue but keep the glue out of the locating pins and holes.
11. Fit the other ball joint base and lock its screw with ca glue.

It may be easier to cut grooves in the inner ring at the top and bottom of the rings in this plane but the travel would have to be measured first and the pins centred at the height of the ball's radius.

This is as yet untested in flight. I think the exhaust nozzle is too big for the fan swept area of this plane and a lot of thrust is lost through these nozzles. I will probably make further modifications before I settle on something.
so you cut the slot on only the outer ring.on one side.the side where you balljoint on the inner ring,and connect to the yaw servo
that is brillant.tthanx amp
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 06:37 AM
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so you cut the slot on only the outer ring.on one side.the side where you balljoint on the inner ring,and connect to the yaw servo
that is brillant.tthanx amp
No, you will need to cut an equal length slot on BOTH sides if you do it the way I have. On the other side you can use a slot the same size as the existing swivel pin if you haven't totally decimated it.

Glad you liked it. Although it works well as I have done it on the F35 I am doing 2 more for my SU34 but will do them differently this time. Look at the pics someone posted in the SU34 thread for the bought 360 ones. You might find it easier to do a slot at the top and bottom of the inernal ring (once it is out) and fit swivels top and bottom.

You should also add a thrust tube into the existing exhaust to bring down the exit diameter to 57-58mm and get rid of air flow interference caused by the TV ball expansion. End the thrust tube just before the straight exit tube starts on the internal ring of the ball joint.

I am toying with the idea of doing something more like the rclander thrust vector system. Perhaps using an egg cooking ring mounted in the existing outer TV ball ring. Add a couple of swivels and tubing to the egg ring. Should work a treat.
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Last edited by johnbone; Oct 15, 2009 at 06:56 AM. Reason: Add more info
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 07:36 AM
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Add a couple of swivels and tubing to the egg ring. Should work a treat.
I'll take mine sunny side up please
Good eye on the new version where they moved the slot to. That's got me thinking now.

Any word on your efflux 70mm?
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Old Oct 15, 2009, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle
I'll take mine sunny side up please
Good eye on the new version where they moved the slot to. That's got me thinking now.

Any word on your efflux 70mm?
It is easy to convert them to 360. The hard part is thinking of an easy way to get smooth flow through the ball expansions. Hence the egg ring thought.

I have a skyworld fan here but am waiting on a opto esc and bec. Then I can fit the rpm sensor to the esc and get some data before I remove the stock fan. I might slip a 6904/2W20 combo in there in between and compare the 3.

In the meantime I am converting the tailplanes/elevators on the SU34 to stabilators. Will post some pics when done.

Either the weather has been too windy or I have been at work so I haven't got back in the air with the F35. The weather looks good this weekend. I have done a couple of things to the front wheel mechanism. It will be interesting to see whether it holds on landing.
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Old Oct 16, 2009, 02:44 AM
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Finally got it back in the air today. The car park was empty so I decided to land on bitumen. Front gear shaft snapped on a mildly Harrier type landing and scaped all the nose undersurface. More fixing

I am using a Turnigy 30c 3000 mAh battery that gives about 4 to 4.5 mins flying time before it is time to land. Once it loses its sparkle she slows down a lot. I can't wait to try something with a little more puff even if it decreases flying time.
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Old Oct 16, 2009, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by johnbone
Finally got it back in the air today. The car park was empty so I decided to land on bitumen. Front gear shaft snapped on a mildly Harrier type landing and scaped all the nose undersurface. More fixing

I am using a Turnigy 30c 3000 mAh battery that gives about 4 to 4.5 mins flying time before it is time to land. Once it loses its sparkle she slows down a lot. I can't wait to try something with a little more puff even if it decreases flying time.
How fast or slow would you say she moves at. Slower that the SU or at least a bit more?
HL is still telling me a few weeks before they receive their shipment.
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Old Oct 16, 2009, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxthrottle
How fast or slow would you say she moves at. Slower that the SU or at least a bit more?
HL is still telling me a few weeks before they receive their shipment.
I never had a stock SU but the stock F35 is slower than the SU I had. Feels like it needs the exhaust exit narrowed. I will probably make a tube for it today if I get time (and a skid plate for the nose)
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Old Oct 17, 2009, 10:06 AM
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I never had a stock SU but the stock F35 is slower than the SU I had. Feels like it needs the exhaust exit narrowed. I will probably make a tube for it today if I get time (and a skid plate for the nose)
Aren't you getting a tube with your Efflux?
I'm still looking for numbers on that system.
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