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Old Aug 22, 2011, 08:16 PM
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Champlin, MN
Joined Feb 2010
214 Posts
I've only got a little more than a dozen flights on mine. So far though I've had to replace the elevator hinges (I used the Robart #309 hinges, but I think the smaller #308 would have been better). I've always landed on a tar road. I had the front retract get stuck out (won't retract) on mine last week after I dorked a landing - haven't had time to fix it yet though so I'm not sure what's wrong with it. If you're more consistent than I am at your landings you might be ok if you've got a smoother runway.

I initially looked at doing the airframe only, since many have said the ESC, motor, and servos are pretty cheap. While it's not a bad idea, it's not that much cheaper so I decided to get the ARF and replace stuff as it dies. Motor and servos seem fine so far though. Got mine from hobbyzone.com - they are local to me so I save on shipping. They also carry the airframe only, but I think they're out of stock at the moment along with the ARF.

Get one of these - you won't regret it. Do replace the elevator hinges though. I read a lot of people that told me to and I didn't listen. It was just dumb luck that I didn't crash and noticed the hinges were busted.
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Last edited by ferch; Aug 22, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 09:32 PM
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Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Jun 2009
448 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie P View Post
If only we could rotate like that, on the takeoff, and let it fly off the ground vs. snap off when the elevator finally overcomes the poor main landing gear placement

Now I'm getting motivated to mod the gear, come to think of it...
On my last flight with this plane it lept up vertically from a grass take off and then of course stalled. I managed to salvage a sideways nose first landing with not too much damage. I already had electronic retracts fitted because I could never keep the front gear from collapsing when landing.

In the repair process I shortened the main struts by 5 mm and moved them forward by 20mm. I have yet to test it because I still have some other work to do on it but I expect improvement.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 08:26 PM
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Green Valley, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
26 Posts
Stock Battery and Battery Compartment Dimensions

I am enjoying reading this thread. I am now anxiously awaiting the projected October delivery of the F-35 from Hobby-Lobby, especially since the retracts will be electrically operated.

I've collected battery recommendations from the forum and I want to order additional batteries, preferably with a C rating above 20. However, I would prefer not having to modify the battery compartment, but I will do so if necessary.

To help me narrow the choices, would someone please measure:

1. The stock battery
2. The battery compartment

Thanks for the help.

Jerry
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:36 PM
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dallas tx
Joined Jun 2003
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Jerry, did HL say the f-35 will have electric retracts??? Good new's!
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 11:10 PM
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The battery cage is 48mm H x 37mm W x 160mm long.
For the F-35 vs the SU-34 they have a separator in the cage at 120mm to put the battery on one side and the RX on the other. You can put the RX above the battery cage and get a bigger battery and move it back slightly.

Because it was a floater I went with a 4S 3000mAh battery.

This take as long to mod as it does to put the battery in.
Pull the battery cage out from the model take out the separator and cut out the back to move the battery aft for CG if needed. While the cage is out you can velcro or tape the RX to the ceiling above the cage.

Remember they added a dead weight ball bearing in the nose to sell the tiny batteries that they had to unload.
Take the bearing out of the nose cone and increase your battery weight to balance.

Poly glue the cage back in place very lightly so that you can take the cage out again if need be.

I might try the new PZ15094 rotating retracts on the mains for this model and the PZ15090 on the nose.

Which retracts did you decide to go with for this model.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 11:16 PM
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dallas tx
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I have a set of e-flite's from my p-47.....Repairing my jet right now. Lee
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Champlin, MN
Joined Feb 2010
214 Posts
Stock battery is about 100mm long, 35mm tall, and about 31mm thick. The stock battery is a 20C 2200mah.
I bought a 30C 2200mah GForce battery from valuehobby.com (pretty cheap and came with the Dean's already connected) that's about 105mm x 35mm x 33mm that easily fits. I wish I had bought a higher mah battery - the flight times are a bit short. I can't tell much difference between the 20 and 30C batteries. If I were to do it over I'd get a 20-25C battery with higher mah capacity.
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Last edited by ferch; Aug 26, 2011 at 11:59 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:34 AM
RC Retread
Green Valley, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
26 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
The battery cage is 48mm H x 37mm W x 160mm long.
For the F-35 vs the SU-34 they have a separator in the cage at 120mm to put the battery on one side and the RX on the other. You can put the RX above the battery cage and get a bigger battery and move it back slightly.

Because it was a floater I went with a 4S 3000mAh battery.

This take as long to mod as it does to put the battery in.
Pull the battery cage out from the model take out the separator and cut out the back to move the battery aft for CG if needed. While the cage is out you can velcro or tape the RX to the ceiling above the cage.

Remember they added a dead weight ball bearing in the nose to sell the tiny batteries that they had to unload.
Take the bearing out of the nose cone and increase your battery weight to balance.

Poly glue the cage back in place very lightly so that you can take the cage out again if need be.

I might try the new PZ15094 rotating retracts on the mains for this model and the PZ15090 on the nose.

Which retracts did you decide to go with for this model.
Maxthrottle, thanks for the info. I was already prepared to pull the battery cage so that I install a Spektrum AR7610-receiver w/ remote and the smaller TM1100 telemetry unit (for monitoring the flight pack voltage) above it. I now use the larger telemetry unit in a 3D plane to avoid dead stick landings.

The new ARF, due by October, will have electric retracts installed.

Jerry
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:38 AM
RC Retread
Green Valley, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
26 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferch View Post
Stock battery is about 100mm long, 35mm tall, and about 31mm thick. The stock battery is a 20C 2200mah.
I bought a 30C 2200mah GForce battery from valuehobby.com (pretty cheap and came with the Dean's already connected) that's about 105mm x 35mm x 33mm that easily fits. I wish I had bought a higher mah battery - the flight times are a bit short. I can't tell much difference between the 20 and 30C batteries. If I were to do it over I'd get a 20-25C battery with higher mah capacity.
ferch,

Thank you for the measurements. With the battery cage measurements from Maxthrottle and your data, I should be able to pick out a good upgrade LIPO from the many that were mentioned in the earlier posts.

Jerry
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:42 AM
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Green Valley, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capt soap View Post
Jerry, did HL say the f-35 will have electric retracts??? Good new's!
capt soap,

Hobby-Lobby told me that the delay in the August shipment of the F-35 is due to a redesign of the ARF for electric retracts. It is expected no later than October. Now I really am excited about getting this plane.

Jerry
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:45 AM
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Curious where did HL announce that the October orders are coming with Servoless Retracts?
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 01:30 AM
RC Retread
Green Valley, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxthrottle View Post
Curious where did HL announce that the October orders are coming with Servoless Retracts?
Maxthrottle,

Customer service at H-L told me verbally on the phone. I was inquiring about my order that was originally scheduled for mid-August and now won't arrive until October.

Jerry
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 11:49 AM
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Ok cool.
When you get them can you post pics and or dimensions of the retract that they used.
Curious if they had another one created in a smaller size for them or if they just dropped in the PZ15090 or 94.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Champlin, MN
Joined Feb 2010
214 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcase1944 View Post
ferch,

Thank you for the measurements. With the battery cage measurements from Maxthrottle and your data, I should be able to pick out a good upgrade LIPO from the many that were mentioned in the earlier posts.

Jerry
If you find a good one post the link please - I think I need a higher capacity pack for this plane. It's so much fun and right as you get comfortable it seems like it's time to land.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:25 PM
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Champlin, MN
Joined Feb 2010
214 Posts
I hope the new servoless retracts will drop in to the retract mounts on the original airframe. If not, rats I'll have to get a new one...
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