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Old Jul 24, 2009, 01:40 AM
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RCLander Hawker Hunter - FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!

INTRODUCTION

The Hawker Hunter was a UK jet fighter aircraft of the 1950s and 1960s. The Hunter served for many years with the Royal Air Force and was widely exported, serving with 19 air forces. A total of 1,972 Hunters were produced by Hawker Siddeley and under licence.

The Hunter was a conventional all-metal monoplane. The pilot sat on a Martin-Baker 2H or 3H ejector seat. The two-seat trainer version used the Mk 4H ejection seats. The fuselage was of monocoque construction, with a removable rear section for engine maintenance. The engine was fed through triangular air intakes in the wing roots and had a single jetpipe in the rear of the fuselage. The mid-mounted wings had a leading edge sweep of 35° and slight anhedral. The tailplanes and fin were also swept. The controls were completely conventional. A single airbrake was fitted under the ventral rear fuselage. The aircraft had conventional retractable tricycle landing gear. A noteworthy feature of the single seat fighter version was the armament of four 30 mm (1.18 in) ADEN cannon. The cannon and ammunition boxes were contained in a single pack that could be removed from the aircraft for rapid re-arming and maintenance. Interestingly, the barrels of the cannon remained in the aircraft when the pack was removed. In the two seat version, either a single ADEN cannon was carried or, in some export versions, two 30 mm (1.18 in) ADEN cannon, with a removable ammunition tank. A simple Ekco ranging radar was fitted in the nose. Later Marks (Mks) of Hunter had SNEB Pods fitted. These were 68 mm (2.68 in) rockets in 18-round Matra pods, giving a strike capability against road convoys and trains.

The Hunter F 1 entered service with the Royal Air Force in July 1954. It quickly became apparent that the new fighter had insufficient fuel capacity. In addition, incorrectly-designed air intakes produced disruptions in air flow to the engine, with resultant compressor stalls. The engine problems were compounded by ingestion of gas when the cannon were fired, which resulted in flameouts. The potential solutions of cutting fuel to the engine when the cannon fired and restricting the use of cannon to low speeds and altitudes were obviously unsatisfactory. The F 2 produced at the same time which used the Armstrong-Siddeley Sapphire engine did not suffer from flameouts.

Furthermore, ejected cannon ammunition links had a tendency to strike and damage the underside of the fuselage. The original split flap airbrakes caused adverse changes in pitch trim and were quickly replaced by a single ventral airbrake. Unfortunately, this meant the airbrake could not be used for landings. Finally, the canopy suffered from fogging and icing during rapid descents.

Its short range was crippling for the new British fighter, with a maximum flight endurance of about an hour. On 8 February 1956, a flight of eight Hunters was redirected to another airfield due to inclement weather. Six aircraft ran out of fuel and crashed, with one pilot killed. One of the aircraft that landed ran out of fuel while taxiing.[3] On the positive side, the aircraft possessed good handling characteristics and even the early F 1 version would exceed sonic speed in a 30°-40° dive at full throttle from 40,000 ft (12,192 m) and above with comparatively minor trim changes.

The first Hunter prototype was fitted with an afterburning Avon RA.7R with 9,600 lbf (42.70 kN) of thrust and other aerodynamic refinements (most noticeably a pointed nose). Dubbed Hunter F 3, on 7 September 1953 it set a speed record of 722.2 mph (628.1 kn, 1,163.2 km/h) over a 1.86 mi (1.62 nmi, 3 km) course.

To address the problem of range, a production Hunter F 1 was fitted with a new wing which featured fuel bladders in the leading edge and "wet" hardpoints. This increased the internal fuel capacity from 337-414 Imp gals (404-497 US gal, 1,533-1,833 l). In addition, a single 100 Imp gal (120 US gal, 454 l) external fuel tank could be carried under each wing.[3] The resulting Hunter F 4 first flew on 20 October 1954, entering service in March 1955. A distinctive Hunter feature added on the F 4 was the pair of blisters under the nose, which collected spent ammunition links to prevent airframe damage. Crews dubbed them "Sabrinas" after the contemporary movie star. The Sapphire-powered version of the F 4 was designated the Hunter F 5. Although the Sapphire did not suffer from the flameout problems of the Avon and had better fuel economy, the RAF elected to persevere with the Avon in order to simplify supply and maintenance, since the same engine was also used by the Canberra bomber.

To deal with surging and flameout problems, Rolls-Royce fitted the Avon with a new automatic fuel system and redesigned compressor. The resulting Avon 203, producing 10,000 lbf (44.48 kN) of thrust, was fitted to Hawker P.1099, which became the definitive Hunter F 6. The other crucial revision on the F 6 was the new "Mod 228" wing, which had a larger area, a distinctive "dogtooth" leading edge notch to alleviate the pitch-up problem[4], and four "wet" hardpoints, finally giving the aircraft a good ferry range.

The Hunter F 6 was retired from its fighter role in the RAF in 1963, being replaced by the English Electric Lightning. However, many F 6s were given a new lease of life in the close air support role, after being converted into the Hunter FGA 9 variant. This had a further strengthened wing and greater external fuel and weapons capability. The FGA 9 saw front line use from 1960 to 1971, alongside the closely related Hunter FR.10 tactical reconnaissance variant. The F.6 and FGA.9 continued in service with the RAF at the Tactical Weapons Unit at RAF Brawdy in South Wales and later at RAF Chivenor in Devon. A variant of the F 6, the F 6A, was also flown here and were essentially F 6 aircraft with 230 gal (1,045 l) under-wing tanks and brake parachutes fitted. The component squadrons of the TWU were No.63 and No. 234 with No. 79 Squadron acting as the standards organisation and for the training of foreign and Commonwealth students from the Singapore Air Force. The types remained in service until shortly after the Hawk T.1 entered service in the mid-1970s.

Two-seat trainer versions of the Hunter, the T 7 and T 8 remained in use for training and secondary roles by the RAF and Royal Navy until the early 1990s.

In December 2006, the Hunter re-entered RAF service with two ex-Swiss examples leased from a private operator to act as targets for a surface to air missile program.[citation needed] They were allocated RAF serials ZZ190 and ZZ191. This was followed by a two-seat aircraft in April 2007, which reverted to its original RAF serial XF995.

The Hunters were used by two RAF display units, the "Black Arrows" of No. 111 Squadron who set a record by looping and barrel rolling in formation 22 Hunters, and later the "Blue Diamonds" of 92 Squadron that used 16 Hunters.





LIST OF NEEDED ITEMS
  • RCLander Hawker Hunter
  • RCLander 70mm EDF Unit
  • ESC of choice. I will be using the E-Flite 60A Pro w/ switching BEC. I will be disengaing the built in BEC
  • BEC of choice. I will be using a Castle Creations external BEC to provide constant power to my Rx and servos
  • Receiver - Rx - I will be using a Spektrum 6200 w/ remote antenae
  • 9 servos of choice will be required to have this fully functional. 1 Elevator, 2 Aileron, 2 Flaps, 3 Retracts, 1 Rudder/Steering
  • 2x 18" of 12 Gauge wire. 1 for Black and 1 for Red
  • 2 Male Dean Plugs
  • 4 Y Harnesses
  • 4 Servo Extensions


LIST OF BUILDING SUPPLIES
  • 6 Minute Epoxy
  • Variety of Philip Screwdrivers
  • Variety of Allen Wrenches
  • Paper Towels
  • Razor
  • Scissors
  • Dremel


Over the next few days I will update this thread. Feel free to comment as to your thoughts of the plane, how it flys, and improvement. Any modifications please post links or photos of those and I'll try and get them stickied in post two.
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Old Jul 24, 2009, 01:41 AM
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Reserved for Updates, Mods, etc, etc....

Reserved for future Mods...
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Old Jul 24, 2009, 08:15 AM
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Old Jul 26, 2009, 08:15 PM
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edited
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Old Aug 05, 2009, 02:54 PM
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PACKAGING

The box showed up unharmed and like I said, in two days time. When it was opened up it was packaged up real nice. Even the tape used says, "RCLander" all over it.

Each piece was individually wrapped. Thats great as it protects the paint job.
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Old Aug 05, 2009, 03:24 PM
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CONTENTS




Its not the best pic, but here is all the parts that were in the box.
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Old Aug 15, 2009, 08:27 PM
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Landing Gear Installation

Start off by centering all your servos. I did this by plugging them into the correct port on my Rx 6200. I powered the Rx with a battery and did all my tests with my DX7.


I'm using the HS82MG for the nose gear to ensure that the gears won't strip.

For the mains, I'm using Hetronik MG-14. They are cheaper @ about $10 after shipping, but you get what you pay for as they are loud as a freight train, but they work perfect.


So in short, I'm using Metal Gear servos for my landing gear. I wrapped each servo in Blue Painters Tape from 3M and then epoxied into place.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oZg1HGjshU
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Old Aug 15, 2009, 08:41 PM
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PUSH ROD INSTALLATION



I hogged out some material so that I could change the angle of attack for the push rods. This caused way less friction than the recommended setup. The provided push rods and sleeves were not up to the task. I used the Gold N Rod setup with the existing push rods. I ditched the provided sleeves. I then used hot glue to hold them into place. Works great. No friction that the Hitec 85MG couldn't handle. Again, works flawlessly.
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Old Aug 15, 2009, 08:53 PM
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RUDDER AND STEERING INSTALLATION




Sorry for the lack of pictures on this one. I slipped. Here you will be able to grasp what to do.

I am using a Hetronik 9g servo to handle the steering and the rudder. This has more than plenty power to handle the task.


Also note the routed configuration of the push rod and sleeve for the rudder.
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Old Aug 17, 2009, 09:05 AM
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RUDDER and ELEVATOR INSTALLATION CONTINUED



Test fit the elevator and rudder to ensure a proper fit. Once that has been, then go ahead and epoxy them together. Slide the rudder fin off of the plane and set it aside. Take the small piece of tubing that is used for the push rod and test fit it by inserting it from the bottom until it comes up flush in the rudder section. Remove it and epoxy it in place. Once that is dry, take the small bent wire that is provided in the kit and insert it through the top of the push rod tubing. While holding this wire in place, take the rudder fin and reattach it to the vertical stab. Make sure that as the wire goes into the rudder fin, that the correct horizontal angle of the wire is correct otherwise it will push the rudder fin either up or down. You want this to be as flush as possible. For me to achieve this, I had to bend the wire a little to get the correct angle. Once the test fit has been finished, take the rudder fin off and reattach it will epoxy. Make sure to epoxy the metal wire into the fin, but at the same time, don't get any epoxy near where the wire rotates by the push rod tubing, otherwise you won't get any movement.

We will now attach the vertical stab to the fuselage. As you combine the two parts, make sure that the metal control wire goes through the part outlined in my pictures. Once that has been achieved, tighten down the grub screws so that the rudder now becomes functional. You might want to consider grinding or filing a flat spot on the wire so that the grub screw bites better. This will also prevent slipping.
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Old Aug 17, 2009, 06:30 PM
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FAN/MOTOR/ESC INSTALLATION



This kit was supplied with the 4s Motor setup. I opted for the 4s as I have previously owned the 6s and to my eyes, there wasn't a huge difference in speed. The other reason for 4s is I own 11 4s lipos and 2 3s lipos, ergo, I thought I would get more flights out of this plane going with the 4s setup. With a 4s setup you will want to use a minimum of 60A ESC.


When you place the fan in, I used hot glue to secure it to the fuselage. This makes for easier work as you are flipping this plane back and forth and rerouting wires and such. Go ahead and attach your ESC to the motor now and make sure that the fan is blowing to the rear. If it is blowing to the front, switch two wires around and that will take care of direction of air flow.

I used Heavy Duty Velcro from Lowe's to secure the ESC. Works like a charm.

After installing the Fan and ESC, go ahead and attach the cover with the 4 provided screws. PLEASE NOTE: On my 4 flight, I had to do an emergency landing and it was a little rough. The 4 screws ripped out their plastic blocks that they screw into. You might want to go ahead and pull those out and resecure them with epoxy as the amount from the factory seemed to be on the small side.

For the leads from the power side of the ESC make sure to to run long enough wires to reach the canopy as that is where your lipos will be.
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 12:04 PM
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DUCT WORK



RCLander provides a small sheet of plastic to smooth out the duct work. I found it too small to work effectively. I ended up having a sheet of red plastic film that was of the same thickness that I picked up at one of those Michael's, HobbyLobby, Joanne's type stores. I cut it so that it would not interfere with the rudder cable.

I initially used 3M double sided tape and it held for the first couple of flights, but then let go and started flapping around. I then used epoxy to keep it in place and it flies great.

Here is how it was done.
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 12:19 PM
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AILERON AND FLAP SERVO INSTALLATION



Center your servos and install the servo arms. Temporarily place them in their pockets to insure a proper fit and to also make sure that their throws are correct. Once these steps are finished, take the 4 plastic covers and cut them to fit. Now you can go ahead and epoxy these servos in place OR use double sided foam tape. Once they are in place, take the 4 plastic covers to hide the servos and put them in place with thin double sided tape. Install the control horns and rods and your finished with the wings.
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Old Aug 19, 2009, 12:40 PM
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WING INSTALLATION



Well, this should have been cut and dry, but it wasn't. Looks like a little cutting is in order. The wing lays flush on the top part of the fuselage, however, when you go to place the cover on, it won't lay flat because of the wood washers. Push the cover with a little pressure to indent the foam. Then cut that section of foam out. Now attach the cover/bottom part of fuselage with 5 bolts.
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Old Aug 21, 2009, 01:31 AM
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Thanks for the great pictures and infomration, I found much the same with my kit, I did though re-route the wiring through the underside of the wing so it made connections a lot easier, I don't want to detract from you great work but if your interested take a look at my notes at http://www.nlmfc.org/index.php?optio...d=131&Itemid=1
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