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Old Jul 15, 2009, 12:26 PM
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Discovered by the Germans in 1904, they named it San Diego, which of course in German means a whale's vagina.
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MY FPV Easystar build with RVOSD and Autopilot

Hey Everyone,

i lurk here a lot mostly reading and researching, but never post (i actually know how to use the search function hahaha). anyway, im working on my first fpv easystar and thought i might document the build, component placement, ect., so others can learn from my experiance. this is only my second fpv plane, my first was a hz supercub with just a camera and transmitter on it. this should be a good thread for a beginner to follow.

Here is a list of the equipment that will be installed:
  • rvosd
  • 2 Hitec HS-81's for rudder only, no ailron mod planned yet
  • CF Wing Spar
  • CF Vents
  • EFlite six series 2000kv
  • venom 36amp esc
  • apc 6x4e prop
  • Specktrum DX6i with ar6200 (i think)
  • Range Video pan tilt
  • 2100mah 3s lipo
  • 450mh 3s for powering video equipment
  • KX-191 camera
  • RangeVideo 1.3 ghz tx and rx

here are some pics of where im at so far. ive basically cleared out the foam, made sure the rvosd fit, and ran the gps cable.






my ghetto air intake made from left over cf spar to keep rvosd and other cool





right now im just waiting for the pan tilt so i can do a mock up to figure out where cg approximation balances before i start gluing everything together. when its built im hoping my enlarged batt area allow me to fine tune the cg issue.

ill keep the thread updated and should have the pan-tilt built and ready by friday. i will be in Vegas over the coming up weekend so dont expect any updates until monday, maybe tuesday (depending on the hangover)
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 02:06 PM
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Discovered by the Germans in 1904, they named it San Diego, which of course in German means a whale's vagina.
Joined Feb 2009
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here is my proposed layout:



the battery position is subject to change depending on cg, but i think the amount of room i have should cover all possibilities
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 02:10 PM
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Discovered by the Germans in 1904, they named it San Diego, which of course in German means a whale's vagina.
Joined Feb 2009
43 Posts
i do have a question about using ferrite rings.

does anyone know where ferrite rings go when used with an osd? meaning, would the rings go on the wires near the specktrum tx or near the rvosd or both? or sill i probably be alright not using them?
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 04:28 PM
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Germany, Berlin
Joined Feb 2009
947 Posts
my ESC came with a ferrit core attached - on the receiver side of the servo wire. I'm also interested in the right answer.

if you will align ferrit like so, you could try without and add them later if you feel the urge (looks like your rx is easily accesible)

I know your tx/camera setup is the 'conventional' and known working for many FPVers. From my own experience I can say it's not optimal where you are going to put it. I tried different layouts on my easy star.

I had the best results with the transmitter under the fuselage, with a layer of tinfoil shielding it from the rest of the plane. dipole antenna pointing down.
I will try finding the pictures
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 05:43 PM
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United States, IA, Mason City
Joined Oct 2008
292 Posts
Wow, looking at this... it could have been the design pics for my EZ. I did almost the exact same thing. Different ESC all along, and 900Mhz instead of 1.3Ghz, but otherwise I've flown with all that equipment in almost the same configuration. Some thoughts:

Unless you plan on adding 5-6oz to the nose it will by hyper-tail heavy. I loved the idea of the battery in the back, gave me loads of room up in the nose and the EZStar can easily fit it. Cept the camera, pod, rx and camera bat don't make up for the difference. The EZ really flys poorly when the CG is to the back. Moving it forward past the manu recommended spot even is good. I now fly with the main bat and alt bat stacked on each other as far forward as they will go, rz in the back of the cockpit area and pod on top of it all. Balances very well. My XY sensor is on the tail though, so maybe that will end up making the difference.

ReadyMadeRc's pods provide a -much- better view and are more resilient. They both (edit: meaning both the rv and rmrc) use HXT900's which suck. 900Mhz interference was a major, major problem with the servos, maybe 1.3Ghz will let you off with less work. Ready's weigh a little more, which is a bonus for us actually.

I agree with Jack, the TX didn't work well for me in the "normal" position. I ended up moving it out to the end of a wing, which really didn't affect how the plane flew at all. Slight rudder adjustment.


Oh! The rudder. It needs to be bigger. A LOT bigger.

Do a test run to see how long that cam bat will last. I ended up moving from a 450mAh to a 900mAh because the 450 would only last 1-2 mins past the time I could fly. Not a lot of margin there. Also, the 900 weighed more and helped the CG :P

The AR6200 will get you just under a mile of reliable flight range, assuming low interference. Very easy to outrange it though; less of a problem with RVOSD RTH, if you get it working, but still annoying. I moved up to Thomas's LRS, which is amazing. Expensive, but amazing.

The E-flight 2000kv doesn't give a lot of "get up and go" once the plane is fully loaded down. Plenty to fly with, but if you want to power up to 1000 ft it just won't do it.

Put strapping tape along the entire bottom of the plane, unless you plan on landing only in tall grass. The foam tears and starts looking really ugly after a landing or two on dirt, gravel or low grass. The strapping tape can take any abuse you throw at it and is easy to wipe off. Also, helps with from-the-ground takeoffs by being smoother.

Finally, make a hatch to get to the RVOSD. If nothing else, you will need to be able to use the IR remote with it; but being able to get it out for updates, tweaks, tests when something doesn't work right etc is needed. Be prepared for a lot of things that you expect to "just work" to ... not work hehe.
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Last edited by Acorns; Jul 15, 2009 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 05:53 PM
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Discovered by the Germans in 1904, they named it San Diego, which of course in German means a whale's vagina.
Joined Feb 2009
43 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack_LaLanne
my ESC came with a ferrite core attached - on the receiver side of the servo wire. I'm also interested in the right answer.

if you will align ferrite like so, you could try without and add them later if you feel the urge (looks like your rx is easily accessible)

I know your tx/camera setup is the 'conventional' and known working for many FPVers. From my own experience I can say it's not optimal where you are going to put it. I tried different layouts on my easy star.

I had the best results with the transmitter under the fuselage, with a layer of tinfoil shielding it from the rest of the plane. dipole antenna pointing down.
I will try finding the pictures
Thank you for your response Jack. i think trying different layouts around my easystar to see whats best is a great idea and ill definitely try the foil trick.

my esc is like that too with the ferrite ring, now, using the RVOSD, my ESC wire with the ferrite ring will plug into the "throttle out" channel on the RVOSD instead of the throttle channel on the receiver like before. then from the rvosd "throttle in" channel, the cable will go to the throttle on the receiver. so the question is still out there. If you use and OSD with ferrite rings do the rings go in between the servos/esc and the osd? or between the osd and the reciever?
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 06:12 PM
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Discovered by the Germans in 1904, they named it San Diego, which of course in German means a whale's vagina.
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acorns
Wow, looking at this... it could have been the design pics for my EZ. I did almost the exact same thing. Different ESC all along, and 900Mhz instead of 1.3Ghz, but otherwise I've flown with all that equipment in almost the same configuration. Some thoughts:

Unless you plan on adding 5-6oz to the nose it will by hyper-tail heavy. I loved the idea of the battery in the back, gave me loads of room up in the nose and the EZStar can easily fit it. Cept the camera, pod, rx and camera bat don't make up for the difference. The EZ really flys poorly when the CG is to the back. Moving it forward past the manu recommended spot even is good. I now fly with the main bat and alt bat stacked on each other as far forward as they will go, rz in the back of the cockpit area and pod on top of it all. Balances very well. My XY sensor is on the tail though, so maybe that will end up making the difference.

ReadyMadeRc's pods provide a -much- better view and are more resilient. They both (edit: meaning both the rv and rmrc) use HXT900's which suck. 900Mhz interference was a major, major problem with the servos, maybe 1.3Ghz will let you off with less work. Ready's weigh a little more, which is a bonus for us actually.

I agree with Jack, the TX didn't work well for me in the "normal" position. I ended up moving it out to the end of a wing, which really didn't affect how the plane flew at all. Slight rudder adjustment.


Oh! The rudder. It needs to be bigger. A LOT bigger.

Do a test run to see how long that cam bat will last. I ended up moving from a 450mAh to a 900mAh because the 450 would only last 1-2 mins past the time I could fly. Not a lot of margin there. Also, the 900 weighed more and helped the CG :P

The AR6200 will get you just under a mile of reliable flight range, assuming low interference. Very easy to outrange it though; less of a problem with RVOSD RTH, if you get it working, but still annoying. I moved up to Thomas's LRS, which is amazing. Expensive, but amazing.

The E-flight 2000kv doesn't give a lot of "get up and go" once the plane is fully loaded down. Plenty to fly with, but if you want to power up to 1000 ft it just won't do it.

Put strapping tape along the entire bottom of the plane, unless you plan on landing only in tall grass. The foam tears and starts looking really ugly after a landing or two on dirt, gravel or low grass. The strapping tape can take any abuse you throw at it and is easy to wipe off. Also, helps with from-the-ground takeoffs by being smoother.

Finally, make a hatch to get to the RVOSD. If nothing else, you will need to be able to use the IR remote with it; but being able to get it out for updates, tweaks, tests when something doesn't work right etc is needed. Be prepared for a lot of things that you expect to "just work" to ... not work hehe.

awesome info acorns, i really appreciate it, especially since you have it all together and working. you really opened my eyes to the cg issue. i was thinking i was going to have the opposite problem of being noseheavy, now my head is spinning hahahaha. i already ordered the rv pan tilt so im kinda stuck there.

im not too concerned with going far yet, and thats a big yet, since i am still a beginner at fpv (i got about 10 flights under my belt in the supercub and was getting great reception about 1/2 mile out and probably 800-1000 ft up). i fly at a local huge park in san diego, in the linda vista area. mesa college with a huge radio tower is next to the park and there are homes everywhere. basically it seems like an interference nightmare. i have many flights going right over the top of the tower, cops and firefighters always stop to watch and talk to me and i've never had any interference issues at all with any of their equipment that others have reported. i dont know how or why maybe im just lucky.

eventually ill switch to a LRS which should be easy since the reciever is up front and easily accesble. this will be once i get a few more flights under my belt of coarse.

is the eflite motor going to be that weak? i did some reasearch and some guys were using the 2700kv motor saying they were basically getting vertical with it. i found others using the 2000kv saying they could not go vertical but definately were able to climb easy. oh well if its really crappy ill just have to swap out i guess.

Thank you again for the tips
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 06:32 PM
FutureVRPilot
Sonoma CA USA
Joined Oct 2006
8 Posts
I am using the E- Flight 2000K motor with 6/4 prop and i have a 2000 and 1250 mha battery's in the nose and i climb out just fine, even when the Temp is 80+ degrees. Maybe about 200 - 400 Ft per min. A 2700k would be better.....
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 11:19 PM
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Good information here. I'm going to subscribe as I'll be making an EZ FPV ship in the future.
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Old Jul 16, 2009, 01:15 AM
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Australia, NSW, Yass
Joined Dec 2007
7,820 Posts
Mate - Where are you going to put the servos? In the stock spot? I ask because they will take up some of your battery space I think.

Good luck with it. I just rebuilt mine and soon I am going to have to find space for the OSDPRO! GRR!!

Cheers
-J
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Old Jul 16, 2009, 07:14 AM
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Old Jul 16, 2009, 09:50 AM
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So...how do you land? I assume you just catch it? I like the idea with the foil but landing would be my biggest worry.
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Old Jul 16, 2009, 11:00 AM
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United States, IA, Mason City
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRDRC
I am using the E- Flight 2000K motor with 6/4 prop and i have a 2000 and 1250 mha battery's in the nose and i climb out just fine, even when the Temp is 80+ degrees. Maybe about 200 - 400 Ft per min. A 2700k would be better.....
200ft per min would be about what I get, maybe a little more; maybe I'm just spoiled by the Radian (500+ ft a min, stock motor).

Quote:
Originally Posted by emfinite3131
you really opened my eyes to the cg issue. i was thinking i was going to have the opposite problem of being noseheavy, now my head is spinning hahahaha. i already ordered the rv pan tilt so im kinda stuck there.
I thought the same thing. Everyone seemed to have talked about pushing the battery back as far as possible to get the right CG... so I thought having it in the back would be a bonus. In the end, best to just measure and adjust as needed.

I have an rv pan-tilt as well; it is fine to make a few flights on, but the readymaderc's view is amazing. RV you can't really see down much, and a lot of the view is just the plane's nose. Personal preference there though.
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Old Jul 16, 2009, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by healthyfatboy
So...how do you land? I assume you just catch it? I like the idea with the foil but landing would be my biggest worry.
this bird doesn't land at all. it's only a pile of foam pieces. well the tail section with rudders is still intact

here's my 'new' airframe http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/8733/dsc0215w.jpg still waiting for hobbyking to ship my parts.


to get to the point.. first I covered the entire tinfoil section with a layer of reapir tape. otherwise it would suffer from cuts fast.
I did not catch it. I landed on the transmitter (which destroyed it after a while. It's really not a good thing to do.) I learned that rf components are very sensitive to vibration. I put some foam material above the transmitter so it would not hit the ground directly though. The antenna folded on impact.
Other than that I can only repeat that it extended stability of signal enormously in my easy star configuration.
fwiw transmitter was awm633 based and receiver awm634 (2,4GHz airwave modules)
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Old Jul 16, 2009, 11:25 AM
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Discovered by the Germans in 1904, they named it San Diego, which of course in German means a whale's vagina.
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Mongrel
Mate - Where are you going to put the servos? In the stock spot? I ask because they will take up some of your battery space I think.

Good luck with it. I just rebuilt mine and soon I am going to have to find space for the OSDPRO! GRR!!

Cheers
-J
yeah they will be in the stock location unless cg issues require me to put them in the rear. if i do go stock, theres plenty of foam left on the stock mounting locations that should be fine. but well see, as soon as i recieve my pan tilt (im expecting it today) ill have a better idea of the layout.
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