I have a couple of AP planes that I use for aerial stuff with scratch built Blu-cor wings.
But I thought I would build myself a New AP plane using the Slow Stick wing.
I also got a few parts from Radical RC, Millennium R/C and RC Foam.

The parts I got from Radical RC were:
Motor Mount Pusher/Tractor lifts motor up "5 off the fuse
Wing mount set 1" rise from stock
Battery Tray

The Item I got from Millennium R/C was:
The X Fuse Kit with tail wheel.
I will be using the tail wheel,servo tray and push rod guides.

The items I got from RC Foam were:
10.0mm x 8.5mm x 1000mm Square Carbon Tube
This is 200mm longer than a stock SS fuse
Carbon rods for my push rods.

The first thing I did was make some tail sections.
I made these using 4"x36" 1/8 balsa.
The elevator is as wide as a stock SS.
And the rudder is tailer than stock.

I first cut out the tail sections from my balsa then covered them with blue painters tape. The tape helps the holes stay smooth when cutting them with my hole saw to make them lighter. Light sanding is done to remove any ruff edges
I forgot to take pics before I covered them. But using a flash light you can see a few of the holes I made.
Note: I did weigh my Rudder before I cut holes and then after. The holes reduced the weight by half. I didn't weight the elevator.

I also put a small strip of 1/32 ply on the bottom of the elevator where my screws would go through. This will keep the screws from compressing the balsa when tightened in place.

My elevator is 16" wide at it's widest point and 3" x 16" on the control section.

And now for the rudder...
This is also 1/8 Balsa. It is 4" at the bottom and 2" at the top. The section of my rudder that the blind nuts is 4" from front to back. I used a paint stick cut 10mm wide as the mounting base. I first drilled holes in this 10mm strip section then placed the blind nuts in the before gluing it to the rudder with CA. My rudder control section is 4" by 7 1/2" tall with the 2" top taper.

I cut my screws short enough that they would get tight before they bottomed out into the rudder fin.

Now to the landing gear.
I got this Landing gear mount from Radical RC in there Slow Stick & Hop Ups section.

The landing gear mount is laser cut and fits together nice.
I used 3/32 music wire for this gear. I then got some carbon tubes to slide over the wire. This will give me the stiffness I want with the height I want to keep my camera clear of the ground.

I did wrap some thread with CA around the base of the carbon tubes where the "L" bend for the axle comes out. This should keep from any chance of the tubes splitting if I have one of those hard un-controled landings.

Once the tubes are in place and the axle bent I put a little CA down the tube to hold it in place. Making sure not the glue the tube to the plywood mount. With the tubes not glued the landing gear will still spring when needed but be stiff enough to not be prone to spread out.

And you are not seeing things, I do have 2 SS wheels on each axle. I had a bunch laying around thought I would use them. Being this will be a little more weight than stock is why I placed 2 on each side to support any exta weight.

I also like how the music wire in held in place with tie wraps. If you have a bad landing sometimes the tie wraps will give way before you break the mount.

That is going to be a good looking plane!

very cool - more please
MIke

I decided to use the Slow Stick stock wing for this build for it's ability to give great slow flight.

Sorry I forgot to get pics as I put the wing together. But I can give you a little description on how it went together.

It's a little long but goes step by step of how to have a good wing with less chance to flutter.

The first thing I did was take the stock wing tubes and drill them out just a fraction to accept some 3mm carbon tubes.
Once I had the carbon tubes cut to the size of the stock fiber rods, you can then glue them into the aluminum wing tubes with CA.
Before gluing the rods to the wing ruff up the center of the wing with a little light sanding. This will help the epoxy in the center stick better. I use micro balloons with the epoxy to help keep it lighter. I then tape the rod on one side of the wing with blue painters tape.
Then mix up the epoxy and micro balloons to glue the center of the wing. Place the epoxy mix down of the center of the wing. Tape the other side of the rods down to hold in place while the glue dries.

Once the glue is dry,remove tape from one side of the wing. I then mixed up a little epoxy to glue the rod in place. I place about 5 spots over the size of the rod from wing tip to center along with half of the aluminum wing tube. Tape in place till it dries. Do the same with the other side.

Now we have all rods glued in place and the center glued together, dont use to much glue on the center because I have a few more steps.

At this point I put just a little Gorilla glue mixed with a little water down the center to fill the gap.Don't place to much because when mixed with water it will foam up a lot. I took 2" fiberglass tape to bridge the gap down the center. Glued it in place with a bit more epoxy. No micro balloons on this, it will soak into the cloth better if it is straight epoxy. You can mix a little alcohol with the epoxy to thin it a bit. It just takes much longer to dry. Using 15 min epoxy will give you enough time to get this done. I used 5min and worked fast...

I cut the fiberglass tape long enough to wrap over the wing tubes to the under side of the wing. You have to keep warping it to the under side till it gets tacky enough to stay.

One last thing I added to the wing was a cross bar carbon tube from close to center of each side of the wing for extra support.
I put a small hole in the wing at the point where the tube ends attach to the wing. I used a little thread and wrapped it through the wing and around both tubes to secure it in place. I put just a little CA on the the thread. Taking care not to get any on the foam.

The battery tray came from Radical RC.

The tray has slots for velcro straps or hooks for rubber bands.
Not much to describe here its a nice laser cut tray, goes together good with CA.

I though I would try something new for me.
I got the Slow Stick Pusher/Tractor Motor mount from Radical RC.
This lifts my motor up 5"+ from the fuse. I like having the prop out of the way.
This way I don't have to point the camera as far down when I have it facing forward.
This also makes a good mount for a pusher if you use 10" or smaller prop.
I am using an 11" so I mounted it as a tractor setup. This mount also has an adjustable thrust angle.

The motor I will be using is a JustGoFly 550XT. In the pic a APC 11x4.7 prop is mounted, but I tested a 11x5.5e and seemed to like the pull it has over the APC Slow Fly. The amp draw was right at 20 amps WOT using a CC Phoenix-35 set to low timing to keep the motor cooler. I also got my red aluminum motor mount from Radical RC. The weight is a little bit more than a plastic mount, but using this aluminum mount will act as a heat sink to also keep motor temps down. In testing the motor don't get warm at all. I will let you know how it does in flight.

Great exelent work
As i say
If you built GOOD ..It will Fly GOOD
Now CG ..perfect and all other
Update as she fly
Guy

Now for the wing mounts.
I bought my Slow Stick Wing Mount Set / Kit from Radical RC.
I really like this setup. I got the set with a 1" rise over stock.
But after doing a little measuring found it was a bit more than 1" over the stock height.
This will not be a disadvantage, but a plus. Having the wing mounted higher will help control. Generally, as you add dihedral and/or raise the wing up you get more yaw induced roll. This is to say your rudder will be more effective.
I kept my dihedral @12 deg close to stock. These wing mount kits can raise above or even lower the wing below the fuse from -1" to +3". And you can chose between 0-55 deg on the dihedral in steps.

One other thing about raising my wing was that it will be close to the same height as stock with relationship to the motor being raised. This should keep from having any weird tendencies.

The tail wheel I will be using came from Millennium R/C.
Very easy to install and design is nice. All hardware except the wheel and wheel collars come with this part.

The large control horn linkage is a plus. It gives you a few options on how you can hook this up.

I will be doing the solid control linkage. I do a little bend in the music wire that makes this easy to install once you have the linkage made. Small music wire and a 1.5mm carbon rod will be used.
Thread is wrapped around the carbon and wire soaked with CA to hold it in place. Covered with heat shrink.

Here are a few pics of the plane @ this point in the build.
Sorry I can't get an outdoor pic at this time, I had a little tendon operation and still use a walker to get around for now.

Got all the Tail Linkage finished up including the elevator,rudder and tail wheel.

I used parts from Millennium R/C and in there X-Fuse kit.
The parts were servo tray,adjustable push rod guides and my tail wheel.
I really like the adjustable guides. This keeps you from having any bow in your
control rods by being able to adjust the angle the rod goes through at.

The carbon rod is 1.5mm from RC Foam. Music wire warped with thread and CA
to hold in place. A little heat shrink to keep it all looking good and strong.

On the rudder servo I used a few small springs and 2 extra easy connects to make up a servo saver.
This was done so not to strip my servo if I were to hit any large objects with the tail wheel that
might jerk it around during landing or take off. It will also help when on asphalt where a strong wind
may blow the plane about making the tail wheel hit on its side.

The X-Fuse kit came with a few screws to lock down the parts in place on the fuse. I placed my screws on the bottom side of the servo tray.

NOTE: I did put 2 sections of hard wood in the carbon fuse with gorilla glue.
10 1/2" in the front and 5 1/2" in the rear. This was done so the
screws would have more to grab when you lock down the wing mount,
motor mount and servo tray on the fuse once you CG is set.

Here is a little video showing how well this control linkage setup works.

I use a HXT Servo Tester to do all control movements. Nice little tool for the price of $5.74

The beeping sound in the background of the video is a Congo African Gray parrot.

Video