Drake II: electric, with ailerons - Page 2

Roland-KVMA · Jul 13, 2009, 07:32 PM

Joe will you build me a drake??? PLEASE!!!

Roland

Palmettoflyer · Jul 13, 2009, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpgilbert

Your first idea sounds clean and simple to me. I had tried to come up with something similar but wasn't certain if it was OK to put holes into the CF rods. I am bit more experienced now and would consider your idea. Shouldn't get any water into the hull as the rods are a nice fit for the tubes and the hole for the pins could be small and horizontal.
Joe

Well, the first idea is past tense now. If I were to do that and to do it properly it would have to be done before I glued in the tubes. Too late, the tubes are glued and sanded. I just finished sheeting the bottom and top except for the windshield piece. As soon as I get the chance to get the pics off the camera I can upload the update.

Back to the Axi motor and ESC.... did you have any trouble with the ESC getting warm or hot with the 7x4 three bladed prop?

Thanks,

Rowland, get some balsa, print the plan and get at it!

Palmettoflyer · Jul 13, 2009, 09:17 PM

Ok, here are the latest pics. Sheeting 99% completed. I'm leaving the windsheild for last to do just before covering starts just in case I need to get my fingers inside. For such a wide body fuselage, it has narrow access from the top.

I have also added a simple piece of 1/16" balsa behind the cabin forward former. I intend to place the Rx here to keep it away from any water that may collect in the bottom of the fuselage.

jpgilbert · Jul 14, 2009, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palmettoflyer

Back to the Axi motor and ESC.... did you have any trouble with the ESC getting warm or hot with the 7x4 three bladed prop?

No problem with heat. I used a CC Phoenix 25 and TP Prolite 2100 mah batteries. Pulling a max of 23 amps. I suppose if you kept WOT continuously, it could become an issue. Under those circumstances, I would use a larger ESC like a CC Phoenix 35.

Sorry Roland, NO Drake for you! I will let you try mine at Lily Pond on Sat. If you behave!

Joe

jpgilbert · Jul 14, 2009, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palmettoflyer

Ok, here are the latest pics. Sheeting 99% completed. I'm leaving the windsheild for last to do just before covering starts just in case I need to get my fingers inside. For such a wide body fuselage, it has narrow access from the top.

I have also added a simple piece of 1/16" balsa behind the cabin forward former. I intend to place the Rx here to keep it away from any water that may collect in the bottom of the fuselage.

Looking very good! It is difficult to get inside due to narrow top access. As you can see from this attached photo, my Seamaster II doesn't have the sloping sides. It was built by Art Aube of Skowhegan, Me. He did 5 of them this winter - Roland has one also. A great flyer!

Joe

Palmettoflyer · Jul 14, 2009, 10:39 AM

Art does nice work.

A good friend in St. Charles, MO just bought the ARF 60" WS version called the Neptune. His is powered with a Saito .56 and so far only has 6 land based flights on it. George is hoping to put it in water tomorrow for the first time.

jpgilbert · Jul 14, 2009, 12:39 PM

I have the Seamaster ARF and mine is electric. It weights about 125 ozs as compared to a Seamaster II that is just under 53 ozs. My Drake II is about 40 ozs. I had a glow version of the Seamaster for several years but sold it last year and converted to all electric. These are all great flying boats, Hard to beat a Seamaster.

Yes, Art does nice work. He builds the basic airframe and you can finish it as you please. I put in my own motors, hatches etc as he mainly does glow planes. He did a LT-25 for me several years ago.

Joe

kepa · Jul 15, 2009, 01:55 PM

Thanks, guys, for sharing! Joe, I had already read your build thread before I started my own and I think I'll check the LHS for CF rods tomorrow! In my case the installation will be permanent, for I have no intention to use wheels on my Drake II. She'll fly off water in summer, and just soon after the lake freezes, there'll be unlimited runways for the winter too.

I've still been a little slow on the build, but here's something just to show you that I've not completely given up.

Palmettoflyer · Jul 15, 2009, 06:07 PM

Kepa,
You are actually working faster than I am. I've got about a 3 week head start. Most of my pictures are old.

If it isn't too late, you should lay the two sides together and cut them both out at the same time. It is the only way to make two side exactly the same size. Plus, it is a whole lot easier. Even if you don't have a fancy saw and need to use a knife, tack glue the two sides together, cut just outside the line and sand down to the finish line.

kepa · Jul 15, 2009, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palmettoflyer

If it isn't too late, you should lay the two sides together and cut them both out at the same time. It is the only way to make two side exactly the same size.

I think I'll cut just a single sheet at a time. I find it easier that way. But I'm going to cut well outside the lines and *then* attach both pieces together and sand them to final shape.

Tonight I spent a few moments sanding the tail parts, but there's still more of that left to do, too.

-kepa

Palmettoflyer · Jul 16, 2009, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kepa

I think I'll cut just a single sheet at a time. I find it easier that way. But I'm going to cut well outside the lines and *then* attach both pieces together and sand them to final shape.

That will work also.

Another reason to make the outriggers removable is to make it easy to fine tune them. You may find that you wish they were in a different position from the center or you may want to tinker with the size of the float itself. Any modifications would be easier with them removed from the hull.

I worked on my hatch cover a bit last night but nothing to show for it. Perhaps I'll get some more done tonight but I will be away from home Friday thru Sunday.

kepa · Jul 17, 2009, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palmettoflyer

Another reason to make the outriggers removable is to make it easy to fine tune them.

Thanks. I didn't think of that. From what I read, the standard design seems to work. However, you never know... Anyway it'll be almost as easy to make them removable as not to. So I'll do it. The smallest carbon fiber tube at my LHS was 5 mm (a little more than 3/16") OD. I should also have bought the next bigger tube to fit around it but I thought I could find some matching aluminium tube from one of the LHardwareS's. It used to be available previously, but no such luck this time.

I have cut the fuselage sides but haven't sanded them to final size and shape yet. Instead here's what will become my tail bulkhead. When I was building my previous project I decided to experiment on laminating thin aircraft grade plywood and balsa together. I didn't use it then, but it's perfect here. This piece is 1mm ply, 1mm balsa and 1mm ply again. That's 1.5 times the thickness of the 1/8" balsa specified on the plans, but then there aren't any holes on the plan. I'll make something similar, or perhaps just balsa layers, for the other formers.

-kepa

Correction: The balsa in the laminate is 1.5mm thick and the plywood is nominally either 0.4 or 0.6 mm. Either way, the total thickness is almost exactly 3 mm.

kepa · Jul 17, 2009, 05:16 PM

Here's another shot that show the layers (and glue stains) better.

-kepa

kepa · Jul 19, 2009, 07:19 AM

I decided the balsa-plywood laminate would be good for the other formers and for the battery tray, too. So this is where I am at the moment, waiting for the epoxy to cure. I may finally get to sanding the fuselage sides later today.

-kepa

Palmettoflyer · Jul 19, 2009, 09:10 AM

Very interesting method. I have thought of similar ideas before. I built one model where it was suggested to use two cut outs of a former with the grain running in 90 degree directions from each other. This makes for a very strong former as well. Your Drake will be very strong as the result. Just remember the Drake box fuselage is inherently strong too, so be careful about over doing it.

I got back from my weekend trip and have done a little more on mine too. I’ve got a front hatch cover made and working on the nose block. Pictures will come soon.

Jul 13, 2009, 09:17 PM	#18
Palmettoflyer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Mount Pleasant, SC Posts: 710	Ok, here are the latest pics. Sheeting 99% completed. I'm leaving the windsheild for last to do just before covering starts just in case I need to get my fingers inside. For such a wide body fuselage, it has narrow access from the top. I have also added a simple piece of 1/16" balsa behind the cabin forward former. I intend to place the Rx here to keep it away from any water that may collect in the bottom of the fuselage. Attached Thumbnails 39.5 KB · Views: 60 47.3 KB · Views: 79 43.5 KB · Views: 64 40.1 KB · Views: 67

Jul 15, 2009, 01:55 PM	#23
kepa Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Kuopio, Finland Posts: 101	Thanks, guys, for sharing! Joe, I had already read your build thread before I started my own and I think I'll check the LHS for CF rods tomorrow! In my case the installation will be permanent, for I have no intention to use wheels on my Drake II. She'll fly off water in summer, and just soon after the lake freezes, there'll be unlimited runways for the winter too. I've still been a little slow on the build, but here's something just to show you that I've not completely given up. Attached Thumbnails Next: The fuselage. 44.8 KB · Views: 70

Jul 17, 2009, 05:16 PM	#28
kepa Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Kuopio, Finland Posts: 101	Here's another shot that show the layers (and glue stains) better. -kepa Attached Thumbnails Another angle. 80.3 KB · Views: 32

Jul 19, 2009, 07:19 AM	#29
kepa Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Kuopio, Finland Posts: 101	I decided the balsa-plywood laminate would be good for the other formers and for the battery tray, too. So this is where I am at the moment, waiting for the epoxy to cure. I may finally get to sanding the fuselage sides later today. -kepa Attached Thumbnails For me, every table is a work table... 65.9 KB · Views: 47

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Jul 13, 2009, 07:32 PM	#16
Roland-KVMA Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Maine Posts: 69	Joe will you build me a drake??? PLEASE!!! Roland

Jul 14, 2009, 10:39 AM	#21
Palmettoflyer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Mount Pleasant, SC Posts: 710	Art does nice work. A good friend in St. Charles, MO just bought the ARF 60" WS version called the Neptune. His is powered with a Saito .56 and so far only has 6 land based flights on it. George is hoping to put it in water tomorrow for the first time.

Jul 14, 2009, 12:39 PM	#22
jpgilbert MaineFlyer Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Augusta, Me Posts: 557	I have the Seamaster ARF and mine is electric. It weights about 125 ozs as compared to a Seamaster II that is just under 53 ozs. My Drake II is about 40 ozs. I had a glow version of the Seamaster for several years but sold it last year and converted to all electric. These are all great flying boats, Hard to beat a Seamaster. Yes, Art does nice work. He builds the basic airframe and you can finish it as you please. I put in my own motors, hatches etc as he mainly does glow planes. He did a LT-25 for me several years ago. Joe

Jul 15, 2009, 06:07 PM	#24
Palmettoflyer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Mount Pleasant, SC Posts: 710	Kepa, You are actually working faster than I am. I've got about a 3 week head start. Most of my pictures are old. If it isn't too late, you should lay the two sides together and cut them both out at the same time. It is the only way to make two side exactly the same size. Plus, it is a whole lot easier. Even if you don't have a fancy saw and need to use a knife, tack glue the two sides together, cut just outside the line and sand down to the finish line.

Jul 19, 2009, 09:10 AM	#30
Palmettoflyer Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Mount Pleasant, SC Posts: 710	Very interesting method. I have thought of similar ideas before. I built one model where it was suggested to use two cut outs of a former with the grain running in 90 degree directions from each other. This makes for a very strong former as well. Your Drake will be very strong as the result. Just remember the Drake box fuselage is inherently strong too, so be careful about over doing it. I got back from my weekend trip and have done a little more on mine too. I’ve got a front hatch cover made and working on the nose block. Pictures will come soon.