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Old Jul 15, 2009, 02:13 AM
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Hi !

This bird have been built using 6mm Depron so i think you can use 5mm blue core without any modifications.

Best regards

Pascal
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 03:12 AM
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Pascal, it sounds like you had a great time in the UK. Cool seeing so many planes at once.

Now when you are back I eagerly await the plans!

Quote:
I used a KDA 22-20L outrunner brushless engine.
That's a good work-horse motor. I have a similar motor that I have intended for this plane.
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 04:47 AM
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Folks,

As promised plans have been uploaded.
I edited the first post of this thread with the links for my Funtana plans.

I'll be pleased you Keep me informed if you build this plane.
Do not hesitate to ask some questions if there are things which you don't understand or if you find some errors on my plans.

Have a nice day !

Pascal
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 06:21 AM
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Hey man, the plans look GREAT!!

I'm only confused about one thing. I can't seem to find the fuselage bottom part on the plans. Am I missing something?
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 07:00 AM
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Any chance of getting it tiled so I can print it out on my inkjet printer at home ?

ALW
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 07:37 AM
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ALW Phantom: I suggest you take a look at ScaleAndTile which is a free program that will tile any plans for you. Then you can tile and scale any plan to suit your wish.
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalleman
ALW Phantom: I suggest you take a look at ScaleAndTile which is a free program that will tile any plans for you. Then you can tile and scale any plan to suit your wish.
Sorry, folks; but the free version of ScaleAndTile3, _v3i, and the version for donors to The Rotary Foundation, _v3k, will not work with PDFs that are encrypted with user/owner passwords.

There is a version that WILL work with password-protected PDFs, provided you enter the passwords in the corresponding input fields. I have not made that version available because I am fundamentally opposed to such practices in this forum.

Best regards,
Bill Segraves
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 08:04 AM
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Oops, sorry Bill. I just assumed it would work with all PDF's. Didn't even know that you could password protect a PDF either
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalleman
Oops, sorry Bill. I just assumed it would work with all PDF's. Didn't even know that you could password protect a PDF either
No worries.

Yes, a PDF CAN be protected with user/owner passwords, with a dazzling array of permissions. While I have no objection to the use of such measures, in general -- Indeed, they are needed, e.g., for legal documents, I DO object to their use for "free" plans, as such password-protected plans are not really free.

Just my $0.02,
Bill Segraves
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalleman
Hey man, the plans look GREAT!!

I'm only confused about one thing. I can't seem to find the fuselage bottom part on the plans. Am I missing something?
I'm sorry Kalleman, i have the bad habit to never draw the bottom of my fuselage for a simple reason : when the fuselage is built i just report it on my depron sheet and draw the outline of the fuselage's bottom - this way i'm sure that it will already match perfectly (not too short, not too long).

Is it a real problem for you ? if it is i can try to calculate the good length of this part and to draw it for you
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by segraves
No worries.

Yes, a PDF CAN be protected with user/owner passwords, with a dazzling array of permissions. While I have no objection to the use of such measures, in general -- Indeed, they are needed, e.g., for legal documents, I DO object to their use for "free" plans, as such password-protected plans are not really free.

Just my $0.02,
Bill Segraves
Bill,

i just use some protection on my documents because i already had the bad surprise to discover, some years ago, that one of my free plan have been "reverse ingeneered" from PDF to CAD format and had been used to produce a commercial R/C model without any authorisation from me.

I like to design my own models.
I think it's a great challenge and most of the time it is a lot of fun - even if it takes a lot of time.

I'm happy to share my work with other modelers if they are interested in it and i share it with pleasure (as you can see here : i haven't planed to share the plan of this aircraft but as People asked for them i have completed them to be as understandable as possible and they are now downloadable).
But i can't stand some bad guys steals my work to make money without my clearance.

Now you know why i try to protect my documents
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALW Phantom
Any chance of getting it tiled so I can print it out on my inkjet printer at home ?

ALW
Hi ALW !

I can try to tile my plans for you.
Might you say me what paper format you want to use, please (letter or A4) ?

Regards

Pascal
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamcatcher
I'm sorry Kalleman, i have the bad habit to never draw the bottom of my fuselage for a simple reason : when the fuselage is built i just report it on my depron sheet and draw the outline of the fuselage's bottom - this way i'm sure that it will already match perfectly (not too short, not too long).

Is it a real problem for you ? if it is i can try to calculate the good length of this part and to draw it for you
That makes perfekt sense. It's no problem for me at all. My build style goes the other way around. I start with the bottom and build the rest of the plane from there. It's always interesting when you learn something new!

I'm going to make some customizing of your plan and build the hotwire-cut parts from depron instead. I will make the wing with 6mm ribs and 3mm depron skin.

Unfortunately I will not be able to start the build in a week or so (real life stuff...) but I will post here when I get going.
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 12:00 PM
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Ah well unfortunately I don't have a hot wire cutter. Won't be able to participate in the building of one of these designs.
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Old Jul 15, 2009, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalleman
That makes perfekt sense. It's no problem for me at all. My build style goes the other way around. I start with the bottom and build the rest of the plane from there. It's always interesting when you learn something new!

I'm going to make some customizing of your plan and build the hotwire-cut parts from depron instead. I will make the wing with 6mm ribs and 3mm depron skin.

Unfortunately I will not be able to start the build in a week or so (real life stuff...) but I will post here when I get going.

I will be glad to see your work here



We used hot wire cut to gain a lot of time but you can also use 6mm depron Ribs, and 3mm depron skin to build your wing - Just think to make a "strong" wing spar (think to the G force ) - i also think that your wing made with ribs and skin will be lighter than our wing.

Unfortunatly, as i've designed this plane for a friend, i don't have any snapshots of her building, so i can't make a pictures illustrated construction guide...

But this is how we thought the main construction' steps :

1 - hot cut the two central parts of the wing using N1 and N2 templates

2 - hot cut the two external parts of the wing using N2 and N3 templates (use the same N2 airfoil template to be sure that both the "N2 sides" perfectly match

3 - use 15 to 30 minutes Epoxy resin to stick a central and an external part of a half wing - let cure

4 - do the same for the oposite half wing

5 - use 15 to 30 minutes Epoxy Resin to stick the two half wings you just built

6 - Cut the ailerons and ajust the Karmans's length to allow the wing to be easily inserted between C2 and C3 bulkheads

7 - Use a sharp cutter blade to make a notch under the wing that will host the Carbon fiber reinforcement (a 10 mm x 0.5mm uni-directional carbon fiber bar from your local hobby shop with "the smaller side looking at the foor") - you can also use a standard 6mm carbon fiber tube if you don't have such a bar.

8 - slide this carbon fiber reinforcement into the notch you have made under the wing and use Foam Friendly CA glue to stick it. Be careful not to twist the wing when you will slide the carbon fiber reinforcement into his notch !

9 - cut the fuselage back bone and all the fuselage bulkheads

10 - stick C2 and C3 bulkheads on the Fuselage back bone - they MUST be perpendicular to backbone and to the fuselage's axis

11 - cut both the fuselage right and left sides, open the hole where the C1 bulkhead will be slided in

12 - start to cut the "wing's hole" into each fuselage sides - start to open a small hole and open it more and more until the wing can be slided into it and match the hole.

13 - slide the left fuselage side onto the left part of the wing and do the same with the right fuselage's side. Be very sharp it's important and both the fuselage's sides must be perfectly symmetric - if they are not, the wings will not be perfectly horizontal

14 - put your fuselage and wing upside down (the fuselage's back bone must be layed down on your bench and the bottoms of C2 and C3 bulkheads must "look at the sky".

15 - put the wing between C2 and C3 bulkheads (with the fuselage sides slided around the wing) and stick the fuselage's sides against the fuselage backbone and C2 and C3 bulkheads. Note : The top of the fuselage's sides must lay on the bench - check that your wing is perfectly horizontal before to stick the fuselage's sides on the backbone and bulkheads. Use holds if necessary.

16 - cut the stabilators and Rudder ( i recommand the "3D" version for the rudder)

17 - build the elevator's mobile part (use a 6mm thick balsa bar to join the left and right elevator's mobile parts) and sand the side that will host the hinges until you will have a 45° angle

18 - we used the inner black soft part of a computer floppy disk to build our hinges (3 hinges by aileron, 3 inges for the rudder, 4 inges for the elevator). Cut some notch into the parts to hinge and slide the floppy disk into the notches. Use Foam friendly CA to fix them. This make very light, soft to operate and long life hinges for a very low cost

19 - hot wire cut the parts of the fuselage's top or use 6mm depron to build the bulkheads + 3 mm depron skin (if you do this, don't forget to reduce TD1, TD2, TD3, TD4 and TD5 height - remove 3mm.)

20 - Stick the elevator at his place onto the fuselage's backbone and round shape a foam block to build the rear point of the fuselage.

21 - Cut a 6mm thick stripe into the center of this block once you have sanded it to the correct shape (the notch will be used to hold the rudder so be carefull, this notch must be perfectly parallele to the fuselage's axis and the side of the notch must be perfectly perpendicular to the fuselage's backbone.

22 - stick the Rudder into the notch in the foam block and stick them at their place on the fuselage

23 - Cut C1 bulkhead into 3mm plywood and slide it into the holes in the front side of the fuselage's sides. Use Epoxy to stick it.

24 - use a foam block and sand paper to shape the canopy (or mold a clear PETG canopy)

25 - Put your fuselage onto your 6mm depron sheet and draw the outline of the bottom part of the fuselage - cut it

26 - make the landing gear using a light 15mm x 1.5mm aluminium bar or bent a music wire. Use a pair of ultra light 40mm wheels.

27 - build all the elevator / rudder / ailerons linkage

28 - when all the wires and linkages will be ok in the fuselage, stick the fuselage's bottom

29 - place all electronic parts and batterie to help centering the aircraft without adding of extra weight.

I might have forgotten some steps but i'm sure that if you are interested in a 3D airplane your are not so beginners in R/C models


Note for those who want build the wing with 6mm depron ribs and 3mm depron skin :
If you need to draw some more ribs to build your wing, the Airfoil i used for this aircraft is a classic Eppler 169.

You can find airfoil plotter software on the internet as Tracfoil / Profili v2 / Profile, etc... they are time limited downlodable evaluation version or are freeware


You can also read this thread :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=945611


Have fun !
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