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Old Oct 24, 2009, 11:09 PM
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United States, MS, Columbus
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b7 sorry to hear about your engine. hope it surived. did you have good air flow around the cylinder. you may have to put baffels in the cowel to force air around the cylinder.
just a thought. mine came back today. i think i will run it on the stand for several hours tomorrow and try to put a couple of gal. of fuel through it before i install it.
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Old Oct 25, 2009, 02:44 PM
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Shoot some thin oil down the spark plug hole and see if that brings the compression back. It may be just the lack of lube from the lean mixture.
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Old Oct 26, 2009, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMcChiken
Hey FlyingHigh , I have used a 14x4 Xoar on my 82 and it runs outa poop too quick . It is just too light . I have been wanting to try a 15x4 xoar . I think the APC14x4w is all right but it is heavy and takes longer to spool up but the idle is great .

If you try a 15x4 let me know how you like it and which one it is . Is this going on your 3DHS Suhkoi ?? Also tell us what kinda RPM's you get .

Ohhh , I did try a 14x4w APC on a 6.5lb edge and I suggest leaving the throttle up higher when landing cause it slowed down REAL quick .
Hey Mike , So I got a chance to fly the 15x4 Zinger .Not bad , took the major rock out of the plane , hovers were not as stable as the W's but still good .
I was having issues getting it to peak but settled in at 9600 for now.
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Old Oct 26, 2009, 09:03 PM
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That RPM is not bad at all for a 15x4 . I wonder what the weight diff. is between that and the Xoar ? I'm gana have to order one of the xoar's just to try it . I hit 10k with a 14x4 xoar and ran it at 9800 . There is just no thrust in the last 1k RPM's and I think it is hard on the motor to run it up there with no load . There good for down low and slow on a Profile though . Maybe i'll try one of those zinger's . How was the spool up ? Slow , Quick or Real Quick ?
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Old Oct 28, 2009, 05:27 PM
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Mike , the JZ & pro's are 36 grams on the 14x4 and 15x4 thats 1.3oz's they also make a 15x5 but not sure about a 14x5 which In my opinion is worth a look also .
The 15x4 carried good speed but I did have to keep at the top of the stick and it still wont pull a good waterfall on my Sukhoi which is 5-pounds dry .

my Xoars are around 40g in a size of 14x7 ,not that I think the extra weight is harmful but probably welcome as
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Old Oct 29, 2009, 06:33 AM
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Southwest Mississippi, USA
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FWIW, I just tried my first JXF props. JXF props seem to be a 99% clone of xoar props. The other 1% is the name JXF on the prop. I had a xoar 13x4 on my os55ax to compare the jxf with - like I said, to me, they're identical. I flew a jxf 15x6 on one of my Saito 100s yesterday on a profile plane. It seemed to do great.

I have a couple of 14x4s for my saito 82 and wish I had gotten a 14x6. I think maybe that the 6 pitch would be better on the 82. I got them from himodel - much cheaper than xoar
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Old Oct 29, 2009, 09:39 PM
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United States, GA, Ringgold
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Originally Posted by b7gwap View Post
Well gentlemen, maidened my H9 Talyorcraft today, with a saito 20cc FG20, flying an APC16X4 prop (was told the gassers don't like high pitch) and cool power oil mixed with 91 octane pump gas at 20:1. I've run about three tanks through the engine to break it in, so today I just flipped it and went. Good news is the airplane flew marvelously. I now see why people fly larger scale airplanes. Just a sheer joy to fly and see in the air. About 10 minutes into the flight I noticed the engine seemed to be ever so slightly bogging or just slowing down slightly, so I figured I'd bring it in for a quick landing and retune it. I set it up in the pattern, brought it in over final and chopped the throttle, the engine killed, ok, no biggie, deadsticked it in, great landing plane btw. Bad news is, when I walked over to pick it up, the aluminum spinner was very warm to the touch, and the engine had almost no compression. I fear I may have run it too lean to its premature death, does anyone have any ideas? It didn't seem too lean when I warmed it up on the ground. Maybe one of the valves isn't seating right because of carbon buildup, etc?

My guess is that the oil you used wasn't meant to be mixed with gasoline and it separated out in the fuel tank. Your engine ran without sufficient/proper lubrication and burned up. I truly hope that I'm wrong.


Ed Cregger
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Old Nov 02, 2009, 12:47 AM
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United States, NY, Miller Place
Joined Apr 2008
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Starting A 4 cycle

Anybody have any tips on starting a 4 cycle by hand. Saito or any other 4 cycle. Position of the prop must be paramont.
Ron
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Old Nov 02, 2009, 01:05 PM
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United States, TX, Round Rock
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Back flipping (bouncing) against the compression often would start a properly primed 4-stroke. But 4-strokes kick badly so I'm not brave enough to flip the prop over the compression stroke and in many cases would use the leccy starter.

Yes, prop position is critical - prop horizontal when it hits the compression stroke, regardless the number of strokes (2, 3 or 4 )

Ivan
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Old Nov 02, 2009, 03:00 PM
Talk soft, carry a big plane.
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northern colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanc View Post
Back flipping (bouncing) against the compression often would start a properly primed 4-stroke. But 4-strokes kick badly so I'm not brave enough to flip the prop over the compression stroke and in many cases would use the leccy starter.

Yes, prop position is critical - prop horizontal when it hits the compression stroke, regardless the number of strokes (2, 3 or 4 )

Ivan
and size matters. My FS40's aren't a big deal. I wear a glove and rarely get much of a kick. If the prime is light, I will flip it forward. A good prime, usually a nice back flip kicks it in.

My Saito .65 has a nasty bite with a little extra fuel. Even with the glove I've been hit good. Mostly it's about paying attention to how much fuel. You get the hang of feeling the compression without power to the plug, watching how much fuel comes out.

I have to say, the FG20 is a dream compared to my .65 - That gas ignition really tames the hand starts down.

Really, I'm not mr experiance, but wanted to throw out what little I knew.
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Old Nov 05, 2009, 02:36 PM
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i got my saito 45 out to put on a plane it has been sitting in a drawer for about 4 0r 5 months. before i put it up i ran about 30 oz of fuel through it and it ran fine. i bought it from a guy at our field and i wanted to see how it ran. i didnt have anything to put it in untill now. it is very stiff when turning it over but its not locked up. i put some oil in the cylinder for a day but still was stiff. i put my heat gun to it and got it hot and it would turn easy. even the starter turned it good after it cooled off it was stiff again. can the castor gum up in the engine after sitting up for a while?
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Old Nov 05, 2009, 04:39 PM
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United States, GA, Ringgold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg harrison View Post
i got my saito 45 out to put on a plane it has been sitting in a drawer for about 4 0r 5 months. before i put it up i ran about 30 oz of fuel through it and it ran fine. i bought it from a guy at our field and i wanted to see how it ran. i didnt have anything to put it in untill now. it is very stiff when turning it over but its not locked up. i put some oil in the cylinder for a day but still was stiff. i put my heat gun to it and got it hot and it would turn easy. even the starter turned it good after it cooled off it was stiff again. can the castor gum up in the engine after sitting up for a while?

Absolutely. Just fuel it up good, let it sit a bit and then run it. It won't take long for the engine to limber up. Castor oil coats the engine parts and protects them.

However, if you are not adverse to using after run oil after a running session, you can avoid the stiff engine syndrome by using all synthetic oil, or mostly synthetic oil with two or three percent of the oil content being castor oil (Morgan's Omega fuel).

Ed Cregger
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Old Nov 05, 2009, 05:39 PM
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Gregg, do yourself a favor and get a 16oz aerosol can of this Corrosion X. Shoot some in the vent tube at the end of each use and it will never rust or get stiff from castor again. It won't allow rust and won't let castor harden. Two of my Saitos and my Enya .46 MKII are approaching 19 years old and are still running on their original bearings. The red cans are the right one, when injected inside the engine it foams up big times and goes everwhere inside the engine then seetles into greenish yellow liquid that will look the same 10 years from now.

http://www.corrosionxse.com/products.html
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Old Nov 05, 2009, 09:35 PM
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United States, MS, Columbus
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thank yall. ed i got my 1st gal of 30% cool power 100% synthetic last week so that should help. i tobor i am getting this tonight. if you got 19+ years on an engine thats incredible. do yall run an inline filter. i am between my tank and carb. and i couldnt get the engine to richen up on my p-40 this weekend. i was thinking of what it could be and that is all i could think of. i checked the nip on the muffler and it was clean. i havent had a chance to try it out yet. or could there be something else?
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Old Nov 05, 2009, 09:53 PM
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Greg, I never run air filters and since I got some PSP fuel jug caps I don't run any filters on the plane. The PSp set up has a filter in the bottom of the fuel jug and in the probe. In case some of you haven't heard of PSP, they make some really cool high quality stuff.

http://www.pspmfg.com/FuelJugCap.html
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