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Old Jul 07, 2009, 01:55 PM
Fly'em like you Stole'em
MikeMcChiken's Avatar
The Gehto,Ca.
Joined Jun 2008
1,115 Posts
Hey James , I myself have mounted Saitos several ways . My first Saito was an 82 I mounted on a original Carl Goldberg Eagle62 kit . It was mounted to Plywood . I flew that for a year with no issues .
I then took that motor and put it on a Hanger9 UltraStick40 . I made a big mistake and used there clamp down piece of crap cast aluminum mount . I lost the motor for a month till a fellow members dog found it . I then bought a Dave Brown mount and had no more issues till I taught the plane how to do cart wheels . Now that motor is on my Mojo40 mounted directly to the plywood .
I have the Saito 115 mounted on homemade billet aluminum mounts in my AeroWorks Edge 540t . That is as solid of a mount you can get . I do have some thin rubber strip in between mount and firewall to dampen vibrations cause the more solid and stiff the mount the more vibration will be transfered .
All in all the hanger9 clamp down mount is the only one I ever had issues with . I would stick with glass filled nylon if I were you or you can do like me and make your own solid alum. mounts . Let the chinese keep the porosity filled clamp down cast aluminum crap.
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Old Jul 07, 2009, 02:06 PM
Fly'em like you Stole'em
MikeMcChiken's Avatar
The Gehto,Ca.
Joined Jun 2008
1,115 Posts
Hey James , I always drill nylon mounts so when I put the cap head screw in I have to screw it into the mount . Use a tap drill chart to get the right drill for the right screw . When you screw something into nylon it creates heat in the nylon which actualy makes it bond to the screw somewhat . I still use screws long enough to put a locknut on for extra security .
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Old Jul 07, 2009, 03:09 PM
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Old Jul 07, 2009, 03:34 PM
Fly'em like you Stole'em
MikeMcChiken's Avatar
The Gehto,Ca.
Joined Jun 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by init4fun
You know id even be happy with a suggestion of what weight/size/scale of airplane would be suitable for my FA-270T without all the other specs. I just want to know what i should be looking at for an airframe.
This might give you some help . See if you can PM this guy . I bet Horizon could e-mail you the manual in PDF form .

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hlight=fa+270t

heres another

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hlight=fa+270t
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Old Jul 07, 2009, 05:11 PM
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 05:13 AM
Fly'em like you Stole'em
MikeMcChiken's Avatar
The Gehto,Ca.
Joined Jun 2008
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Not sure on the weight but I fly a 18lb 3D plane with a 5.5hp 2-stoke gasser and its almost a rocket on the verticle with a 22x8 .

If you do some research on the net you will find that the pt-17 is just over 20 lbs . You can always limit the throttle but balancing is the main problem . I like overkills though .
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 07:42 AM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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The 300 did replace the 270. They share parts. Over on the Universe, there was a 270 converted to a 300 listed for sale.

The 30 hundred use a 20X10 or 20X8 prop. I'd start with a 20X8 on the 270. In a scale, civilian, airframe, a 25# model shouldn't be out of the question.

My IKON Stinson SR-8, powered by the 300, weighs 20#. I never fly with more than 1/2 throttle.

A 1/4 Cub, or the GP Stinson, would be great airframes for the 270. A GP Pitts ARF might be an interesting option, too.

Back in the days when I flew small 2 strokes, I used the kit included fiber filled mounts. I would drill through the mount and install lock nuts on the mounting bolts.
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 10:50 AM
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 11:27 AM
Grumpa Tom
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
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Probably all you will ever need to know about Saito glow fuel model airplane engines:
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 11:57 AM
Registered User
Africa
Joined Jan 2005
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saito 56 F

I once had a saito .56F . The 'F' was for 'fun fly'.It had a red anodised prop driver. It was a great little engine & very easy to hand start by flicking backwards onto compression. I sold it in a plane some time ago.My question is... whats the difference between the fun fly and the normal .56? There was an obscure reference somewhere about 'if continuous full throttle running is required then rather get the standard .56'. Another question- with such superb engines why is the instruction sheet so crappy? Why not have a nice little OS style booklet?
Cheers
Simon
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 02:00 PM
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 02:02 PM
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United States, GA, Ringgold
Joined Oct 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James L.
Thanks for the reply, Tom.

Is anybody using glass filled nylon engine mounts for their Saito's? I've looked at some of them, and I've wondered how well the included sheet metal screws perform in keeping the engine tight to the mount. Has anybody encountered problems with them loosening out of the glass filled nylon, which is basically reinforced plastic? Does anybody ever forgo the use of the sheet metal screws and modify the beams with through holes so a standard machine screw and locknut can be used to secure the engine to the mount?

I still haven't purchased an engine mount, yet, for my 100 as I'm not sure what would be the best type--1) rigid aluminum, 2) flexible/vibration reducing, or 3) glass filled nylon. I am hoping to benefit from some of the collective experience here in deciding which type to get. Does anybody have any war stories about engine mount problems which influenced them to switch to a different type engine mount? It would be great to see some more comments on which type of engine mount is prefered by Saito users and why.

James L.

I haven't found many sheet metal screws that are worth bothering with when using an epoxy engine mount. Goldberg had some (rounded shiny head) that worked perfectly for a while.

What I have discovered is that if you use the appropriately sized (small) body drill, you can drill through the epoxy glass engine mount and then tap the mount with threads for an appropriately sized machine screw (6-32 on the smaller sized engines). I have been doing this since the seventies and I have yet to have a mount strip its threads or for a bolt to come loose once properly tightened. Yes, I was skeptical when I first heard of it too, but you can't argue with positive/no failure results. I have built and flown many, many models since the late sixties and seventies.

If your threads are stripping out in your epoxy glass mount, your body drill is too large. Unfortunately, I don't remember the number of the body drill for 6-32 thread cutting.


Ed Cregger
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump
The 300 did replace the 270. They share parts. Over on the Universe, there was a 270 converted to a 300 listed for sale.

The 30 hundred use a 20X10 or 20X8 prop. I'd start with a 20X8 on the 270. In a scale, civilian, airframe, a 25# model shouldn't be out of the question.

My IKON Stinson SR-8, powered by the 300, weighs 20#. I never fly with more than 1/2 throttle.

A 1/4 Cub, or the GP Stinson, would be great airframes for the 270. A GP Pitts ARF might be an interesting option, too.

Back in the days when I flew small 2 strokes, I used the kit included fiber filled mounts. I would drill through the mount and install lock nuts on the mounting bolts.

A 270 is a bit much for a 1/4 scale Cub. I have two of them. The SIG Cub has an OS 120 Surpass which flies it very realistically with more than enough power and an L-4 with a Zenoah G-38 which has MORE than enough power and it's on floats.
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 02:32 PM
Fly'em like you Stole'em
MikeMcChiken's Avatar
The Gehto,Ca.
Joined Jun 2008
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No. 36 drill (.1065) for 6-32 . A lot of people don't realize there are drills that go by number for size and they are even hard to find . You would think Sears would carry them . NOPE . For the best price go to Harbor freight . JL Indusrial and MSC Industrial has them too .

TAP*************Drill
2-56 ------------#50 .070
4-40 ------------#43 .089
6-32 ------------#36 .1065
8-32 ------------#29 .136
10-24------------#25 .1495
10-32------------#21 .159
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 04:41 PM
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