Mike , The engine just does not run like it should , basically like Rodney described . No consistent peak and idle is all over. I thought at first it was weak engine mounts flexing then the servo linkage . I never did fly the plane like that so I do not know in flight what it was doing . More then likely you should be able to pull on the runner a little bit and note an rpm difference? Only reason I happened to see fuel was cause I was running it really rich that time.
Doing the red RTV is not difficult just clean the surfaces scuff them with Scotch Brite coat with RTV so that it does not push into the intake restricting airflow. I think The back plate is a more solid fix though.

Remember, when installing the O-ring to place it in the head and then push the intake pipe through it. It will never seat into the head by pushing it with the little washer while the O-ring is on the intake pipe.

I tried a top flight 13x8 power point wooden prop on my Fa72 which is fitted to a superchipmunk & was very impressed with the performance from this plane /engine prop combo , previously used MA ,APC , & bolly props but none have given the same performance as this prop change ,now requires alot more throttle control as WOT is FAST !! which has also resulted in less fuel burnt & longer flight times.

Originally Posted by I TOBOR

Remember, when installing the O-ring to place it in the head and then push the intake pipe through it. It will never seat into the head by pushing it with the little washer while the O-ring is on the intake pipe.

I might have done that when I rotated the carb 180 deg. . I didn't have any issues till I did that . Thanks , I'll check'er out .

i just started braking my fg-20 in today. i ran 3, 10 minute runs below 3000 rpm 2, 10 min runs below 5000 rpm and 2, 10 min runs above 7000 rpm. runs great! started leaning it out and got about 9400 rpm and backed off about 300 rpm. i have ran about
1 1/ 2 hours and have hardly used any gas i am drawing strait out of a 1 gallon gas jug so i dont know exactly how much but it is not a quart. im using a 15x6 prop.

Originally Posted by greg harrison

i just started braking my fg-20 in today. i ran 3, 10 minute runs below 3000 rpm 2, 10 min runs below 5000 rpm and 2, 10 min runs above 7000 rpm. runs great! started leaning it out and got about 9400 rpm and backed off about 300 rpm. i have ran about
1 1/ 2 hours and have hardly used any gas i am drawing strait out of a 1 gallon gas jug so i dont know exactly how much but it is not a quart. im using a 15x6 prop.

I really like my gasser too . Real efficient and lots of ponnies . But its not a saito ........ Someday .

i was adjusting the tappets today and when i was taking the plug wire off i cracked the plug. i got one ordered but itll be a few days before i can play with it again. it adjusts much easyer than the glow engines do. i am still having trouble with the 82 and 56. i got frustrated with both of them and would like to take a sledge hammer to both of them but the fg-20 gives me some hope i can get them running right, if not its back to electric for my big planes. or a few more gassers. mike is your gasser a four stoke or 2?

Greg, what is it that your .56 and .82 are doing, both will run like a Swiss watch when adjusted properly.

YS' are the only engines that frustrated me to the point of sledge hammer thoughts. I sold four of them for $300.00 to be free of them.

Hey Greg , My gasser is a DLE-55 . It is my first gasser on a 30% SD-models Yak . It is 2-stroke . Do you use pre-mix in yours or does it get a oil change every 3000 miles? Don't know too much about the 4banger gassers . Was curious if they hold there own oil .

Whats got you frustrated on the small motors ??? One of us can probly give some input .

i use 2 stroke evo full syn oil at 20 to 1 ratio it oils good but not as much as the glow and it seems to burn the oil better so theres not as much out of the muffler. there is one guy at our field that has a 2 stroke gasser and he has a lot of problems with it but it is very old and hasnt been ran in a few years i dont remember what kind.i was intrested in how they preform and how easy they adjust. on my glow engines i cant adjust them correctly i cant get the rpm they should be at. i can idle both realy low with no problem but above mid throt i have the problem they dont have the power. i put the 82 on my h-9 fokker d-7 and it would barely fly. the power 60 on 6s is better. i took it off and put it on the h-9 pawnee but i havnt flawn it yet. i am going to adjust on it some before i fly it. the booklet that came with the fg-20 explains how to adjust the carb better so after reading it again last night i feel better about it.

I have a question for all you Saito users, I installed a Saito 82 in a toledo special and have put about a gallon through it.

My problem is, it idles fine, starts easy, and seems to run fine at anything but wide open. At wot it sputters, at first I thought it was too rich so I leaned it out and nothing changed (it was leaving a smoke trail and never came down hot). So when that didn't work I richend it up, same problem I can't seem to get it to run smooth at WOT. I have a 14x6 prop on it.

So what do you all think? This is my first 4stroke so I'm at a loss, like I said at all other throttle settings other then WOT it runs like a champ and I love it. But at full throttle it's sad to hear it choke away in the air.

Lostlad

mine is doing the same thing. i am going to check the valve gap today and adjust if needed. i have about 1 1/2 gallons through mine now. i am new to glow and thinking about putting my ele motors back in my planes. ele is way less of a hassel but i think if i get set right glow would be fun.

Originally Posted by greg harrison

.... on my glow engines i cant adjust them correctly i cant get the rpm they should be at. i can idle both realy low with no problem but above mid throt i have the problem they dont have the power. i put the 82 on my h-9 fokker d-7 and it would barely fly. the power 60 on 6s is better. i took it off and put it on the h-9 pawnee but i havnt flawn it yet. i am going to adjust on it some before i fly it. the booklet that came with the fg-20 explains how to adjust the carb better so after reading it again last night i feel better about it.

Greg , That power 60 is a lot bigger than the saito82 so to speak . It pumps over 2hp if its running over 1400 watts . The saito82 is 1.5hp . A guy in our club has the Fokker and has a YS120 in it and only needs 3ft of runway . It is a really nice plane but weights 9.5+ lbs . A 82 will fly it but in a more scale fashion and you'll use more runway .
Get a good tach to help you guys tune the saito good . Make sure the lowend screw is even or a wee bit below the surface of the throttle arm . Start on the topend with the screw out 3.5 turns and keep screwing it in till you find the peak RPM on your tach . If you go too far in on the top end the RPM's will drop off too and this is where your running lean and could burn up the motor if you fly it like this . So find the peak RPM on the topend screw and I then back it off 100-200RPM's .

After you get the topend right you can go the the low end .(note:never attempt to set the lowend before the top end is peaked out) .Here is where you find out if it will idle without dying yet still give quick transition to full throttle . Let it idle for 1-2min then hammer it to fullthrottle .

(For me this adj. was a little more difficult to learn . Both rich and lean slows the trasition . Rich on the lowend kinda girgles or sputers before picking up R's . Too lean you don't have the girgle or sputering but transition to full throttle is real slow . Too lean will also allow a lot lower idle rpm from what I have seen . )

After going to full throttle determine if it is rich or lean and adjust the lowend 1/8 of a turn at a time . Go to full throttle to clean it out and check that the top end is still set correctly . (Remember the topend and lowend needles work together somewhat so every time you adjust the lowend go back and check the topend ). Now go back to idle for a minute or two . Hammer the throttle again to check the transition . Repeat this till you have no hesitation from idle to full throttle . Idle RPM is pretty much detirmined by the prop size when properly tuned .

Note that every time you change prop size , plug type , fuel , or season changes you will need to re-tune settings . It looks like a lot to do but once you get it down and know what your hearing it is a non-event . I suggest finding someone at your club that has a bunch of saitos and have them take you to school . Don't give up .

If any of the Saito Guru's want to add to my instructions please feel free to do so .

mike thanks for sharing your knowledge. i know my lo-end needle is well below flush. i didnt know you had to keep adjusting hi-end if you moved lo-end . i will star adjusting it. im not going quit the fuel it just aggervates me that i cant get it to run correctly. and i am the only saito flyer in our club. we have 1 os and 2 rcv flyers and few elecs. i think i am going to put the fg-20 on the d-7 untill the p-51 blue nose comes in. well im going to fly thanks for yalls help.

Originally Posted by greg harrison

mike thanks for sharing your knowledge. i know my lo-end needle is well below flush. i didnt know you had to keep adjusting hi-end if you moved lo-end . i will star adjusting it. im not going quit the fuel it just aggervates me that i cant get it to run correctly. and i am the only saito flyer in our club. we have 1 os and 2 rcv flyers and few elecs. i think i am going to put the fg-20 on the d-7 untill the p-51 blue nose comes in. well im going to fly thanks for yalls help.

I don't know how much lower than flush you are but I would move it back to flush and start over . Flush with the throttle arm is like a reset or do over position .