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Old Feb 13, 2011, 05:16 AM
Registered User
Jimmy Hoffa's Avatar
Orlando, FL
Joined Jul 2004
2,344 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacecase View Post
Or look into a YS 63.
YS motors have similar to Saito nitro requirement.

That's the best muffler I have ever seen!
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:20 AM
Arc, spark and smoke...
desmobob's Avatar
upstate NY; Lake George region
Joined Mar 2006
615 Posts

That is a great exhaust gas management system you have there... definitely AMA-style. A WERA guy would have it plumbed into the neighbor's living room.

Good flying,
desmobob
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 10:52 AM
Twistaholic AMA 134406
Dad_Roman's Avatar
USA, TX, Teague
Joined Jul 2007
5,639 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by desmobob View Post
That is a great exhaust gas management system you have there... definitely AMA-style. A WERA guy would have it plumbed into the neighbor's living room.

Good flying,
desmobob
LOL...not mine Bob, just the guy on the vid. Plumbed to his dust removal system eh?

You'll appreciate the fact that I have an Akrapovic on my test stand (off my boy's ZREX )
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:40 AM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Sep 2003
23,688 Posts
Haha, just saw that indoor exhaust system. It's awesome.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 04:21 PM
Arc, spark and smoke...
desmobob's Avatar
upstate NY; Lake George region
Joined Mar 2006
615 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dad_Roman View Post
LOL...not mine Bob, just the guy on the vid. Plumbed to his dust removal system eh?

You'll appreciate the fact that I have an Akrapovic on my test stand (off my boy's ZREX )
Igor would be proud....

Ride safe,
desmobob
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 02:40 PM
Electrif(r)ied nitroman
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BelgiŽ, Vlaams Gewest, Putte
Joined Jun 2004
1,005 Posts
Some interesting pictures for Saito enthusiasts.
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Old Mar 04, 2011, 10:38 PM
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GCplane's Avatar
Manassas, Virginia
Joined May 2008
425 Posts
I recently got a Saito 125 and read this entire forum. Thanks for all the great information!
I made a table of contents of what I thought was the best information in this forum and at the bottom are my break-in plans based on a composite of the Owners manual, hints in this forum and an RC engine guide book. Mike McChicken, You might want to put this table of contents on page 1.

Saito Engines Forum Table of contents
The first number of each line is the post number if you let your cursor dwell on a forum page number it will show you the post numbers that are on that page.
Post 1 - There are good Tips on page 1
Post 25 - Tom’s Break in sounds good.
Post 26 - Website of saito info: http://saito-engines.info/index.html
31 - Clamp down cast alum is bad mount. Dave Brown mount good.
39 - I down loaded the word doc from post 39 – all you ever need to know about Saito engines
Try flip back against compression. Try using the spinner to twist.
44 - drill and tap guide
67 - Fuel: WildCat 10 and 15% Premium Extra/18% 80/20 blend or PowerMaster 15% with the same 18% 80/20 blend as the WC
152 - when installing the O-ring to place it in the head and then push the intake pipe through it. It will never seat into the head by pushing it with the little washer while the O-ring is on the intake pipe.
Can rotate the carb if need to.
163 – detail tuning instructions at the end of break in. Read this.
169 – something in exaust nipple kept tank from pressuring and supplying plenty of fuel for full throttle.
222 – if muffler loosens use plumbers Teflon tape couple of wraps (use blue) and tighten when hot.
284 – How to put together a carb
291 – Throttle ľ to 1/3 open on first 10 min.
309 – How to mount carb
311 - http://rcspecialties.net/ header/pipe muffler
365 – XOAR is a good prop. Light so accelerates faster
407 – People like zingers (props)
434 – other screw on carb sets idle speed
448 – Corrosion X can . Shoot in vent tube
452 – fuel pump – hand crank , they also have a nice engine test stand
462 – hand start method
469 - Glow Devil Plug is good and 471 lists several plugs
531 – Alum Backplate
562 – Tuning procedure for a broken in used motor
578 – and surrounding posts – freezing and heating to get a part off
601 – Cline regulator lets you fill tank with a tee
603 – Drawing of a tank setup

Use slightly smaller prop to break in
Adjust low needle than re-adjust high needle. They interact.
617 – Fuel: Wildcat 10 or 15% and 18% of 80/20 syn/castor. Called premium extra.
- if use cool power add castor.
663 – use CorrosionX
Marvel Air Tool oil for afterrun
http://www.theprofilebrotherhood.com...p?f=18&t=16472
Pg 46 post 680 - I lube mine pretty often, it takes just a few seconds to pull the rocker covers, put a few drops of STP Power Steering fluid on them and close it back up. Some does work its way up past the valves but I don't trust that alone.
To glue plastics IPS weld-on 3 solvent cement
738 - Before starting you need to get the ARO out of the cylinder:
You only have to make sure you "burp" the oil out of the cylinder by rotating it backwards. This opens the exhaust valve first and allows the fluid(s) to run out the exhaust.
751 – good New user questions around post 751.
774 – good place to find saito parts: http://www.advantagehobby.com/?cat=3...rid=244&page=1

Blade conversion chart: http://www.zingerpropeller.com/_2_blade_.htm
I Tobor favorite plug: Fox Miracle plug

Post 1000 - Thread size on prop shaft
1014 and 1015 - Links on How to take an engine apart
Post 1060 - Temp. 160 great 220-250 if couled and you hover. 275 critical 300 meltdown.
Post 1225 - harbor freight puller
Post 1435 - Fox Miracle Plug http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=FOX4702
But many like the OS F.
Post 1465 - Oiling an engine that sat around
Post 1473 -Lub recommendation


My notes for breaking in based on The Saito owners manual,
An engine book and posts in this forum.

Use 1 notch smaller prop … (a 15x4 for my 1.25 engine) see owners manual
Break-in Procedure

Big, you only need that real rich setting at 1/4 to 1/3 throttle for the first 10 minutes. The engine runs too cold to do any actual breaking in a that setting.

I used this schedule for break in. The reason for all the heating and cooling is that is the best way to relieve the stresses and let the parts fit better together.
Start and let run
2 minutes at 4,000 with throttle at 1/4 to 1/3, whatever will keep it at 4,000
Stop and let cool to touch
2 minutes at 4,000 same as above stop and let cool to touch
3 minutes at 4,000 same as above
3 minutes at 4,000 same as above
(You are now at 10 min total run time)
3 minutes at 5,000, lean enough to run without the glow lighter on
Stop and let cool to touch
3 minutes at 5,000 same as above then stop and let cool
4 minutes at 5,000 same as above
(You are now at 20 min total run time)
3 minutes at 6,000 stop and let cool
3 minutes at 6,000
4 minutes at 6000
(now at 30 min total run time)
4 minutes at 7,000 stop and let cool
4 minutes at 7,000 stop and let cool
4 minutes at 7,000 ith brief runs to full throttle
(now at 42 minutes total run time
Refuel, set peak, then richen to 300 rpm less than peak, go fly
Its much easier to break it in in a test stand where everything is easily accessible and the break in does not shake your plane to death.

Follow the instructions of post 163 for final tune at the end of break in.

After Run Oil Process:
Tbd see page 1 links and owners manual.

Fuel: Wildcat Premium Extra 18% with 80/20 syn/castor oil or Powermaster 15% with the same 80/20 blend.
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Last edited by GCplane; Mar 05, 2011 at 07:08 AM.
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Old Mar 06, 2011, 08:51 AM
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MaverickP-51D's Avatar
United States, TX, Palestine
Joined Dec 2007
165 Posts
Dont know if Philip will see this. But the 125 is on the way.
My 100 has a new home too.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLUT7&P=0
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Old Mar 06, 2011, 02:29 PM
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GCplane's Avatar
Manassas, Virginia
Joined May 2008
425 Posts
I got a used 125 that someone cross threaded the hot plug. I had a hobbyshop replace the cylinder with a new one. The engine runs great but it leaks a puddle of fuel, I think it is coming from the seam where the cylinder sits on the engine block and from the seam at the crank case cover. I am thinking about loosening the screws and squeezing in some Permatex Ultra Copper Gasket maker (sensor safe and noncorrosive) and re-tighten the screws. What do you think?
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Old Mar 06, 2011, 04:17 PM
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Jimmy Hoffa's Avatar
Orlando, FL
Joined Jul 2004
2,344 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaverickP-51D View Post
Dont know if Philip will see this. But the 125 is on the way.
My 100 has a new home too.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLUT7&P=0
I'll be waiting next to the mailbox! Congratulations on the new plane. A friend had one of those with a Saito 1.00 and he said it was the perfect combination and one of the best planes he ever owned!
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Old Mar 06, 2011, 10:07 PM
Cognito, Ergo Imbibo
old_dan's Avatar
Morgan Hill, CA
Joined Sep 2007
310 Posts
To GCPlane.....
I'd use some anerobic sealer like Permatex Hylomar. It is supposed to only solidify under pressure, so any that squeezes out of the joint won't get inside & seal up a bearing.

By the way...you can have Clarence Lee install a thread insert in your original cylinder for around $20.

Dan
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Old Mar 06, 2011, 10:27 PM
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GCplane's Avatar
Manassas, Virginia
Joined May 2008
425 Posts
Thanks dan, I wish I had read about Clarence Lee before I bought the new $100 cylinder.
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Old Mar 07, 2011, 03:43 PM
Deal Honestly or Don't Deal
United States, SC, Taylors
Joined Jun 2004
612 Posts
Anyone remember who makes a metal backplate for the FA-82 engine???

sarg96
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Old Mar 07, 2011, 11:23 PM
Registered User
Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined Sep 2007
618 Posts
Yes satio does. cheers the pope
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Old Mar 07, 2011, 11:31 PM
Registered User
USA, IA, Des Moines
Joined Nov 2010
127 Posts
Hi, I'm replacing bearings on my Saito 65 and having a heck of a time getting the rear bearing in without destroying it. I'm heating the case with a heat gun, put the main bearing in place and used a wood block and hammer to pound it in. It's not working too well. Any recommendations?
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