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Old Jul 04, 2009, 09:43 PM
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Riverside, California, United States
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Cool picture! So, I just finished the build. It took 7 hours. I can build one in 4 if Im hustling and not documenting anything. I probably wont have any time until later to post it all but I will try to start now.
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 09:53 PM
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Riverside, California, United States
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Tools and Supplies

here are a few items that I reccomend for the build. The dremel cuttters are the best I know of for the job. Get some and you will be happy you did. The Gorilla Glue CA is really good CA and is toughend. Good good stuff.
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 10:03 PM
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I chilled at Joe's shop for a couple of hours today basically doing my best to get in his way while he was working on the build and I have to say the quality of the new models is SUPER nice!!!

It has been really fun to watch the progression of this model as the production quality has gotten to a level that Joe's was looking for, (I can't even imagine how difficult it must be to produce a model like this with little tiny wipers and carbon socks on the ailerons...) Also as the production planes are getting closer to being available it is really fun to see how excited Joe is to get them out into peoples hands.

I guess what I am trying to say is they are really cool little planes, and the people who get their hands on one are going to be super stoked!!!

Cheers,
Chris
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 10:04 PM
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Near the Ocean in Hunt. Beach Calif.
Joined Apr 2006
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Joe do you know if the JR 241 metal geared servos (o.45 width) are too thick to fit the wings, and if they are will they work in the elevator? And SUSA has some Extreme MG servos that are comparable to the D60s (thickness wise) for close to twenty something dollars. If those work in the wings will a HS 65 HB fit the elevator. I want to try and start collecting parts for the build and am slowly getting things together Should I be using plastic geared or carbonite instead of metalgears? Jimi
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 10:06 PM
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Elevator Setup

The models need a small amount of fileing at the leading edge of the elevator saddle. I didn't get a photo of the fit before I fixed it. It is an easy task that must be done to keep the elevator incidence correct. I use a small round file.
Once I have the tailgroup fitting nicely I drill an exit hole for my antenna at the rear of the fuse at the base.
Next I take a tiny drillbit and drill for the elevator pushrod. I drill at 90 degrees to the angle at the rear of the fuse and I start the hole at least halfway back or further on the angled portion. The further you go back the thinner the fuse gets and you can drift to the side while drilling and make a mess of it. If you aim halfway back it is easy and still gives you enough leverage on the control surface. After the hole is drilled down through the splooey and Im into the fuse I take a larger bit the same OD as the pushrod housing and chase out the first hole.
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboyjimi
Joe do you know if the JR 241 metal geared servos (o.45 width) are too thick to fit the wings, and if they are will they work in the elevator? And SUSA has some Extreme MG servos that are comparable to the D60s (thickness wise) for close to twenty something dollars. If those work in the wings will a HS 65 HB fit the elevator. I want to try and start collecting parts for the build and am slowly getting things together Should I be using plastic geared or carbonite instead of metalgears? Jimi
Jimi, I would stick with the servos Im using in this build. However, Im considering using some D47's on the next one because a flat cover would be awesome.
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 10:10 PM
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Gotta go! I will finish this up later this evening.
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 10:13 PM
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Near the Ocean in Hunt. Beach Calif.
Joined Apr 2006
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Okay thank you and did you say the covers will be raised a little bit above the servo?
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboyjimi
Okay thank you and did you say the covers will be raised a little bit above the servo?
Still not sure what Im doing with the covers. If D47's work in the wings then I can make the wing a lot cleaner. Just not sure how good the smaller servos will do yet.
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Old Jul 04, 2009, 11:55 PM
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Before I forget to explain, the .032 wire was just a bit flexy but should work but it was too small in diameter to fit into the servo arms tightly. I used the .039 and CA'd the keepers in place. It seems like it should stay put. I could always drill a new hole in the servo arm but for now, this is the route I took.
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Old Jul 05, 2009, 12:02 AM
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I use the knurled cutter and remove a small area so the pushrod has some room to come down. In the next step I will solder the cable and if you get too much solder on the cable it will not return into the housing. This step is not necessary but it prevents you from having to do it later with the pushrod installed if it's binding.
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Old Jul 05, 2009, 12:07 AM
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Next, I slide the pushrod housing in from the rear hole I drilled and leave about 1" exposed. I take some thin CA and wet out the exposed portion and quickly slide it in most of the way. It bonds instantly so I grab an exacto and cut what's left of the pushrod housing flush with the exit hole.
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Old Jul 05, 2009, 12:13 AM
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Now it's time to solder the cable. I dip the tip in soldering paste and tin about 1/2" of the cable. I then put a 90 degree bend in it about 1/4" down. One thing to note is once the cable is bent, most of the time the individual strands will seperate so it's important to hit it with the soldering iron once again after bending to melt it all together again. Once Im happy with it I slide it into the housing.
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Old Jul 05, 2009, 12:19 AM
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Next I cut the housing 3/4" forward of the wing bolt insert. I then position the rear of the cable roughly where I think it will be installed into the elevator horn and cut the cable 1/2" forward of the end of the housing. Then solder the supplied brass cable end onto the cable leaving 1/4" between the soldered sleeve and the pushrod housing. This arrangment will allow the servo to be right in the middle of the fuse opening. You can then choose to mount your receiver in front of or behind the servo. If you want to add ballast you can do so on either side of the servo.
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Old Jul 05, 2009, 12:31 AM
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Now I get all my gear together and make sure my elevator servo is centered and smap on the clevis. It is important that the clevis is snapped on the right direction so that it can be removed if necessary later. There is no room between the servo arm and the inner fuse side to open a clevis. it has to be opened toward the center of the fuse. Hope that makes sense. Then I twist the bend in the pushrod at the rear so the clevis can be adjusted and the height of the bend will end up just below the elevator and glue the bottom corner of the servo to the fuse side. The servo cannot be glued to the bottom of the fuse, it's too wide. It is elevated about 1/4" off the bottom making sure the linkage or servo arm isn't sticking up proud of the wing saddle.
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