Mark, feel free to ask questions...i may have just as many as you as this is the first time I've used this system. I have a couple friends who have used it for much larger models and love it. I'll post progress here when I get there. Glassed one side of all surfaces yesterday, and aim to do the other side tomorrow.

Sean,
I was commenting on your A7 in your other build thread. Are you going to do the same treatment to the Hornet with the maintenance decals? Was just wondering if you were would you post a link as to where I can purchase the 1/10 scale set also. I know you bought your A7 decals from Tailor Made Decals, but I didn't see any for the F-18. Ordered my decal set from Pro-Mark Graphics, going to do the Desert Bogie/VF-12 scheme. And still waiting on my Dyn-E-Max EDF from Fred.

Mark

Mark,

Sorry for the delay in responding, just spent 3 days up in Bristol, RI for family obligations.

On the F18 I proably will put some small stencils on, but there aren't nearly as many on the F18 as there are on the A7. Ralle is a great guy to deal with and I'm sure if you shoot him an email about the F18 he may have something. Not all the ones he has done are on the website. Let me know what he says.

The set you get from Jerry Caudle should have the small stencils with it. If not, ask him about them as I'm sure he has created them in the past.

I saw some pics of your scheme...looks sharp!

Sean,
I was out of town for a few days myself for this holiday weekend. I'll send Ralle an email and ask him what he has available. I'll give Pro-Mark a call today too, forgot to add a couple things and will have him add to my order.

Mark

The main landing gear struts arrived yesterday. Shown below with the Yellow wheel hub mounted they are both 4.0 oz in weight. Wish I had of weighed the Yellow struts for comparision....one thing for sure is that there is no comparison with the quality and look of the new struts.

The surfaces have been glassed and the 'flow coat' was added a week ago. I like to leave it for at least a week before sanding. I may get back to it this week, but am headed to the outer banks for a week next week so work in the shop will stall.

Drool ......
man that's some nice looking gear

I'm really looking forward to this build...can't wait to see what you do with it


later
Ron

Thanks Ron, Ed does some really nice work. He is also very quick to reply via email with updates etc during the process. My nose gear should be here in a week or so, but it's not holding me up.

Are you going to try gear doors on this one?
I know most don't with this plane, just wondering you plans
They look like they would be a pain in the butt

Ron

After some rough sanding on the glassed parts I started to look at putting together the RDS system which will control the ailerons and flaps. A number of people have asked about this process so I'll share the steps I've gone through. Note, this is my first time going this route so there may be a few ways to skin a cat so to speak.

First a little overview of the RDS system. RDS stands for Rotary Drive System. It's an all internal method for moving hinged surfaces on fixed wing R/C models. I've posted some links previously in this thread for more information.

The RDS involves no output arms, horns, clevices, threaded rods, protruding well covers, etc etc. Basically the surfaces are totally free of any exterior hardware that not only catch on things, but can also cause drag, noise, and basically just look non-scale. Plus if you're like me you've had these linkages poke holes through other models to and from the field.

So, properly installed it provides a slop free method of moving our surfaces. Another feature is because it's directly off the output shaft of the servo, it does not apply any forces at right angles to the output gear of the servo so it's much easier on the gear trains, etc.

Let's get to it. The RDS product is available from Walt Dimick at IRF Machine Works. http://www.irfmachineworks.com/rds/

Picture 1: Shows the RDS system in 45 degree (ailerons) and 90 degree (flaps) as they come from IRF as well as the Kimbrough Products servo accessory kit item #500. Note there are 2 sets per package and I need 2 sets total for all 4 surfaces. I've elected to go with the 3/32" dia shafts. Walt also offers these in 1/16 and 1/8 sizes.

Picture 2: Shows the 'pockets' that go into the control surface. For the 3/32 dia shafts these pockets are 1/2" x 2" x 3/16" thick with a 1" long opening.

Originally Posted by Ron101

Are you going to try gear doors on this one?
I know most don't with this plane, just wondering you plans
They look like they would be a pain in the butt

Ron

Ron I agree, and will not be going through the trouble with adding them.

Does the Yellow wheel have a provision for brakes?
Thanks,
Bob

Originally Posted by strictlyscale

The main landing gear struts arrived yesterday. Shown below with the Yellow wheel hub mounted they are both 4.0 oz in weight. Wish I had of weighed the Yellow struts for comparision....one thing for sure is that there is no comparison with the quality and look of the new struts.

The surfaces have been glassed and the 'flow coat' was added a week ago. I like to leave it for at least a week before sanding. I may get back to it this week, but am headed to the outer banks for a week next week so work in the shop will stall.

First step is to get the couplers onto the servos.

Picture 1: Shows the JR3421 metal gear servos with the arms removed. You know as a Futaba guy this pains me to use these but they seemed to be the best micro servo for my need. First step is to find the correct double-splined adapter on the 5-adapter tree that comes with the Kimbrough accessory pack.

Picture 2: Shows the bottom coupler that comes with the Kimbrough kit that is splined on the inside to go over the double splined adapters shown in picture 1. These are held on via the JR servo screw.

Picture 3: Shows the nylon coupler top that comes with the Kimbrough kit. We'll discard these in favor of the tempered aluminum ones that come with the RDS kit from IRF (shown below).

Picture 4: Using the supplied 3/16 6-32 set screws the aluminum upper coupler is assembled onto the lower coupler. This is how I did this: Screw in one of the set screws into the threaded hole in the alum coupler at the small end of the coupler until it's completely below the surface. Insert this alum coupler into the nylon coupler on the servo. Now drive the set screw most of the way through the parts cutting the threads into the nylon as you go. Then back that same screw almost all the way back out again cutting the threads into the coupling. Now screw that same set screw back in to the previous postion. Then take a second set screw and follow in behind the first screw so that there are now 2 set screws holding the alum coupler to the nylon one. IMPORTANT: Note the thread direction so you can put them back in should you need to remove them. I marked this direction with arrows as shown.

Picture 5: All four servos completed as noted in step 4.

Originally Posted by Robert Belluomini

Does the Yellow wheel have a provision for brakes?
Thanks,
Bob

Yes it does. Mine don't have them as I fly off grass. I guess if needed I can go back and add these. Here's a picture of the RCCrafters struts with brakes on the yellow wheel.

Originally Posted by Robert Belluomini

Does the Yellow wheel have a provision for brakes?
Thanks,
Bob

Bob,
I have the same Gear set-up from Ed at RCCrafters equipped with the Yellow Aircraft wheels & brakes. Ed has to do some modifications to the brakes for them to work with his gear. Here is a link to what mine look like with the brakes...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...954442&page=14

Mark

OK, next step in the RDS process is to make up some mounts for the servos in the wing. My first inclination was to use the Tam Jets servo mounts but these will not work for this application. Fore-and-aft 'shiftability' of the mounted servo is essential to disconnect the shaft from the coupler and if tilt is need to the get the shafts into the pockets, and the servo mounting system MUST allow for this. The Tam Jets servo mounts would not allow this shifting. The shifting also allows for some leeway to cinch down the servo at the 'sweet spot' of the elbow near the pocket. More on this alignment later.

Like anything there is a learning curve and some experimentation so you'll be following along in the process that I'm embarking on...there certainly may be better ways to achieve the same result.

Picture 1: I cut (4) 1/16 a/c ply plates for the servo mounts and (8) 1/4 x 3/8 hardwood blocks about 3/4" long.

Picture 2: When you spend $90 on a servo, it takes some nerves to cut the mounting tabs off...but that's what I did next.

Picture 3: Shows the arrangement of the plate and blocks cut in picture 1.