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Old Dec 08, 2012, 05:39 PM
Pursuit of Happiness
Ron101's Avatar
Brentwood, California
Joined Jul 2007
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I love EZE coat.... so simple
The finish is coming out really nice on my F-18 and it's much lighter than epoxy

I've been able to match the weight of monokote on test panels fully painted.... hope I can do the same on the plane.

I couldn't be happier with the stuff now it will come down to how well it holds up in the sun
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 06:20 PM
EDF Jet Jam 2015, May 28-31st
Robert Belluomini's Avatar
United States, KY, Crestview Hills
Joined Dec 2000
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Originally Posted by Ron101 View Post
Bob does it sand well? I have had no luck getting water based primers to sand well and have has to stick with automotive.... that's the only part that I don't use water based.
Would love to find a water based that sands like high build auto primer


its waterborne not water based. very light once it dries which is quite quick.
sands easy safe for foam too!
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 06:42 PM
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Progress

Step 12 of 207

Issues I've run into so far:
* The engine mount formers wouldn't fit against the inlet ducting. I trimmed them down slightly which worked out well in the end anyways because the original width was too narrow for the fan mounts. Now they line up perfectly with the hole's I'll need to drill when I'm ready to mount the fan.

* The inlet just really didn't fit that well. I trimmed, ground the edges, sanded and fiddled but in the end I think I'll just end up slapping a little extra filling putty in a couple spots. The old method had you put it in and mark with a marker and cut out the area but the new inlets are precut/moulded.

* You can see where I layered a 6oz fiberglass cloth over the shipping damage cracks. I wonder if it needs another layer?? I'll use some filling putty on the outside and I'm hoping it turns out not noticeable.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 12:49 AM
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San Diego
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You don't need more than 1 layer for that repair, fill in the crack with split second. You need to mount that fan way back, you should make new fan mount rails that extend beyond the back bulk head, get that fan twords the back of the fan hatch, this will help give the air a chance to stabilize when crashing together from the twin intakes and help with cg since the batteries sit fairly forward.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 08:23 AM
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Thanks for the tips.

I was worried about cg more than air flow when thinking of fan placement. Is the benefit of airflow that noticeable? Gas engine builds mounted almost right at the inlets.
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mulicheng View Post
A note on the gray fuse. It is fiberglass coated on the inside of course, but it does look like the outside is a moulded plastic shell. Complete with panel lines and all.
It's not plastic shell :-), it's gell-coat. Paint chemically bonded to fiberglass. Apply paint first to the mold and lay over fiberglass.

Zb/ Esprit Model
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mulicheng View Post
Thanks for the tips.

I was worried about cg more than air flow when thinking of fan placement. Is the benefit of airflow that noticeable? Gas engine builds mounted almost right at the inlets.
It helps both the cg and airflow. Remember you dont have 3-4lbs of batteries with a glow jet
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 11:18 AM
Another one on the way...
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Plano, Texas
Joined Feb 2009
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Brian, did I hear it correctly the you have the fan BEHIND the rear former? I thought you had it all the way back to that former, but still in front of it. Was I wrong? Do you have pictured beyond what I saw? I can still play with that. I know the batteries don't really help the CG...
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Old Dec 09, 2012, 11:38 PM
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San Diego
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I have not mounted my fan yet but that's my plan, i want that fan as far back as i can get it, you guys should mock it up and balance it before you commit to a certain spot!
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 08:52 AM
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I planned on that too. To have the wings mounted and pretty much everything in place in the frame before I actually mount fan.
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Old Dec 10, 2012, 10:39 PM
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I did a little fitting of things near the fan. I'm skeptical that putting the fan much behind the rear of the normal formers is feasible. The mounts will interfere with the wheels when retracted. I just don't think there is room to get the struts/wheels all the way up with extra former/mounts/bolts behind the rear formers.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Glued the inlets in with Hysol. (13 of 207) My next step will be to round the corners of the inlets and shape/sand them. I'd like to nice smooth finish consistent from the outside to the inside. Do you guys cover the sanded edges with anything?
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 01:15 PM
Another one on the way...
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First of all, I had tape on the outside, assuring no glue gets out. Second, I used epoxy with microbaloons to add volume to it. Worked perfectly (I think I have pictures somewhere in this thread). Once it is done, sand it carefully, and you will get a very smooth transition. Once painted--you will not know where the outside stops and the inside begins. By the way, with this kit, you should get used to the word "sand"...
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 02:35 PM
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First of all, I had tape on the outside, assuring no glue gets out. Second, I used epoxy with microbaloons to add volume to it. Worked perfectly (I think I have pictures somewhere in this thread). Once it is done, sand it carefully, and you will get a very smooth transition. Once painted--you will not know where the outside stops and the inside begins. By the way, with this kit, you should get used to the word "sand"...
Ha Ha yeah I already know. I even stocked up on a bunch of different grit sandpapers. I already glued it with Hysol. I tested sanding hysol out previously and it seems to sand/smooth just fine. I think I need to add some volume to a couple spots though. Like on the inside edges the inlet is about 1/2 mm off from the fuse edge. That's just the size it came as.. not much I could do. So I wonder if perhaps some of the auto sanding putty might be the best way to smooth out the difference and sand.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 03:30 PM
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Tampa FL
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Originally Posted by mulicheng View Post
Ha Ha yeah I already know. I even stocked up on a bunch of different grit sandpapers. I already glued it with Hysol. I tested sanding hysol out previously and it seems to sand/smooth just fine. I think I need to add some volume to a couple spots though. Like on the inside edges the inlet is about 1/2 mm off from the fuse edge. That's just the size it came as.. not much I could do. So I wonder if perhaps some of the auto sanding putty might be the best way to smooth out the difference and sand.
I would only use the auto stuff in areas you dont need strength. It will probably crack under the paint on the inlet. Fill in the hysol voids with epoxy mixed with micro balloons to make it a little easier to sand.
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