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Old Feb 07, 2011, 11:47 PM
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great boat! just wishing on the day mine will look as good as yours!
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Old Feb 08, 2011, 05:39 PM
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Takes time Zrhino ,,takes time. The main thing in building any model is not to be in a hurry.. Pete
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 02:02 AM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
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The main thing in building any model is not to be in a hurry...
Ain't dat da truth!!!

Haven't beaten that one yet... always get in a rush to finish and get into the water... sigh.
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Old Feb 09, 2011, 02:25 AM
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Portholes, Installation

It has been a long time since I was last working on these things, but the time has come to finally finish them off. We still haven't gotten them cast yet, so we've decided to use the wax ones for now.

The holes were cut to the exact size of the waxes, the thin acetate glass was cut but not installed yet. The plan is to glue in the portholes and paint over (and inside) them, then glue in the windows.

We've also laminated 2 leftover hull planks and cutout and rough shaped the 2 Rub (Bang) Rails which we'll install before painting the rest of the hull.

'till next step ...
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Old Feb 10, 2011, 02:19 AM
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Pacific Northwest Model Show, Monroe, WA

I know it's kind of last minute, seeing the show is on for this weekend, but I was wondering about bringing the Lady Marada (this model) down to the static display for a while. Do we know if we have 54" of table space to show her? She's not quite ready for the water yet, although that would have been a good place to let her sit.

Any thoughts?
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Old Feb 10, 2011, 11:13 AM
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I'd take it to the show Barry. It's such a good looking model that you will get lots of interest with it. You don't have to be in the water to go to a show with your boat. Take lots of pictures if you go. Sounds like a lot of fun to me. Pete
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Old Feb 10, 2011, 05:27 PM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
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I'd take her to the show as a work-in-progress display!! Knock 'em dead!
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Old Feb 11, 2011, 09:56 AM
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Great work and stick-to-tivness. Inspires me to get out in the garage and work in my 3/4 completed 1937 Stinson Reliant SR-7 electric model plane project, have about 25 hours of fiddly work left to complete and maiden it. I have decided to call my approach to scale fidelity "folk art".

If interested, take a break and skim through the build thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...tinson+reliant
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 02:15 AM
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Rub (Bang) Rails

We decided to stay home this weekend and get some more work done on the Lady. So we finished carving the 2 Rub (Bang) Rails and readying them for installation perhaps later tonight.

To get the needed thickness we laminated 2 of the left over hull plank pieces. We then carved one to match the drawings and finally made a template of the 1st one's profile to duplicate on the 2nd one. They look pretty good and as of now, they are just dry fitted (taped) to the hull. We'll try to get them glued in place overnight and then polyurethane them tomorrow.

'till next step ...
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Old Feb 16, 2011, 01:52 AM
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Upper Cabin - Ceiling Panels & Lights, Finished

We're just about done with the removable cabin, as far as assembly is concerned. The last major pieces were the installation of the Upper Cabin Ceiling Panels and the wiring for their lights; and the Windshield. The ceiling panels, lights and wiring are now all in place.

In addition we started the final painting of the hull. Did I mention I really HATE spray cans? Well I still do!

In any case, we've sprayed both sides with a white enamel, complete with runs and blobs and what else. I think I'll sand it all down lightly tomorrow when it starts to harden, then I'll give her a 2nd coat the way I'm used to - by hand.

'till next step ...
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Old Feb 16, 2011, 07:53 AM
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One thing about painting with spray cans is that you need to do it a lot to get good at it.
One thing I learned is to paint the hull in several light coats and then pick it up and turn it every which way in the air so runs can't get going. If I see a run starting I turn the hull the opposite way and let the paint run back on itself. After a few minutes of waving the boat around in the air the paint will settle in nice and smooth and then I can put it down and let it dry. This is another good reason to use enamal. It tends to flatten itself out for a nice smooth finish. Lookin' great Barry. Pete
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Old Feb 16, 2011, 09:41 AM
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Planking

Top notch planking, deck and hull ... makes allllllllll the difference ...
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Old Feb 19, 2011, 03:11 PM
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Hull Sides - Painting started

We started painting the hull sides late last week, which will continue into this next week as well. We decided to change paint and painting methods ... to limited success. The problem stems from the fact that my spray can painting skill is negligible at best. There were many spots, runs, splats and just plain unpainted spots on both sides, so we decided to hand paint. I used the new can of paint to cover over the sanded down messes from before but apparently the drying times on the label of the new paint weren't accurate, in fact, not even close. As a result we got much crazing under the first coat. It really shouldn't be much of a problem, I'll just sand it all down nice and smooth and apply another coat by hand.

Heres some pics of the hull with 2 coats of white on her, the undercoat being a sprayed on while the top coat is hand brushed. Both coats used white enamel paint. I'll post more pics of my progress as time permits this week.

Meanwhile I'm building the Wheelhouse Seat using some scrap mahogany ply. I'm thinking of upholstering it, but in a dark chocolate brown suede.

'till next step ...
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Old Feb 19, 2011, 04:10 PM
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You do better with a paint brush tan I can do with a spray can. Really a nice paint job Barry. Pete
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Old Feb 19, 2011, 10:11 PM
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Update?

Well since I didn't take her down to Monroe, Washington, here's a few pics of her so far, all doll'd up. Enjoy
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Old Feb 19, 2011, 10:16 PM
Taking care of the pond.
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Nice...
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Old Feb 19, 2011, 11:46 PM
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loving it so far!!! Plus great pics and notes
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 08:06 AM
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"Doesn't look bad" I think it looks great!
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Old Feb 20, 2011, 09:18 AM
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OMG. You have a master piece. Be proud of what you have done. You have earned it. Every model has things that the builder wishes had come out better but you have done a super job.
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Thanks a lot guys.

As mentioned before, we had quite a bit of crazing in the 2nd coat, so today & tomorrow we'll be sanding out the surface with 320 dry paper, wiping it all down and try to have her repainted for the BAMM's Brentwood Mall one-day display this Saturday the 26th.

With any luck we should actually be able to make this one; the guys there should see quite a difference in her since last year.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 12:22 AM
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She's gonna look perdie in the lake.
Understatement.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 03:25 AM
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Thanks Tom, I hope so.
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Old Feb 26, 2011, 02:01 AM
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Update?

We're planning to spend all day at the Burnaby Association of Marine Modellers (BAMM) did I say that correctly? annual spring display at the Brentwood Mall tomorrow and thought I would give a quick update.

The hull sides have now been painted a 2nd and 3rd coat, but not with enamel. Trying to think ahead - probably not a good thing to do, I decided on trying one of the new hybrid latex paints that we'll have to start using after this December. This paint is supposed to have some additional ingredients to make it adhere to previously painted enamel surfaces, yet it is "green". So far, I'm less than enthusiastic about it, but I'm thinking that part of the problem lies in my choice of brush as much as anything. It covers, that's not an issue, but it doesn't flatten/smoothen out like an enamel does.

In any case, we'll try to get some pics for you all tomorrow.

Cheers
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Old Feb 26, 2011, 04:28 PM
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The Latex boys had to have a hand in that deal. No enamel? Pooh pooh! Pete
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Old Mar 01, 2011, 02:05 AM
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Bamm

Quote:
Ya Barry,those are terrible pictures. I only looked at them for about an hour. Thanks for posting them and what was the results of showing the 63' for the first time? Pete
Actually Pete, it wasn't the first time I've shown her. I went to this event last year. A lot of the fellows who were there this time weren't there last time, so for them it was, I think, a pleasant surprise. For the few who had seen her before, I remember a few comments about how much further along in the build we were and how good everything looked. We got many comments about the interior furnishing (including a rumour that we're going to have flushing Heads, Ha Ha) and quite a few compliments on the upholstering as well. There also were a couple of questions regarding being able to "see in" the below decks staterooms to actually appreciate the furnishing, and of course they're absolutely correct, but I wasn't ready to conceede that. To me it's just something I always wanted to do and this model affords me the chance to, so I'm on a mission, whether it makes sense or not.

In any case, I'm happy that you and others enjoyed the pics.
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Old Mar 01, 2011, 07:11 AM
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Not being able to see the interior is one of the reasons that I don't mess with that anymore. It's a lot of extra work that won't be appreciated by the average person. However I know that most of what we do with our boats is for our own gratification and you are doing the same thing. It will be a wow factor when at a show and other model builders will appreciate the effort that goes into such work even if the average Joe doesn't.
You have made a really great contribution to the model boat building hobby that will be around long after you and I and the rest of us are gone. A hundred years from now some guy will buy that boat from somebody and he will be amazed at the work that went into it. Frankly I'm amazed that the heads DON"T flush. I thought they did. Pete
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Old Mar 02, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Well she is looking really good.

Very nice work.

Jim
Abbotsford, BC
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Old Apr 04, 2011, 03:02 PM
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Well she is looking really good.

Very nice work.

Jim
Abbotsford, BC
Thanks Jim. Did I get to see you at the BAMM show in Brentwood, by any chance?
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Old Apr 04, 2011, 03:08 PM
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Update

I can't believe it's been over a month since I last did any work on the Lady. Wow, time flies, but I don't remember having THAT much fun!

After trying many times, we finally gave up on the Robbe couplers which kept coming apart during trial bench runs, and replaced them with MACK couplers, which wouldn't fit their 3/16" prop shafts.

It was the "boss" who happened to notice that we'd completely forgotten to make a pair of another (almost full length) Rub Rails, so we started making them from left over plank pieces.
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Old Apr 04, 2011, 04:00 PM
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Couplers

The Robbe couplers -which were fairly expensive, by the way- reported to be the best, just didn't deliver as advertised. Every time we applied a bit of power to them, they began to separate. Maybe they're designed to do that in an emergency situation, but not all the time without any load on the props.

We had ordered a pair of couplers from MACK when we got the prop shafts, etc. but they were giving me some grief as well, so the Robbe ones were purchased to replace them. The MACK ones were made for a 3/16" shaft. We knew from past experience that the 3/16" opening would fit on a 5mm motor shaft and so these did, no problem. But when we tried to fit them onto the 3/16" prop shafts there was no way we could get them to fit.

The only solution seemed to be to have to drill out the couplers to fit the shaft. That required buying a real drill press, as all we had were hand drills and pin vices. That has now been done and they stay together and work very well.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 04, 2011, 04:16 PM
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Rub Rails - Long Ones

We were proudly showing off the Lady to the "boss" one afternoon, when she noticed that we were missing the long Rub Rails (Reed Moulding) that go from the Transom all the way to the foremost Porthole. Well that was embarrasing!

We decided to use the left over parts of the hull planks which were about ¼" wide and of course the full length of the hull. Using a balsa splitter we managed to cut one the entire length fairly cleanly, giving two pieces. We're in the process of shaping these and then we'll glue them in place, seal them and apply another coat of white to the hull sides.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 12:51 AM
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Toe Rails, cont'd.

Ahh, time to resurrect the Toe Rails. The plan was to make them but not install them in the proper sequence until the deck "planking" had been done. That has been completed so now is the time to finally put these in place. One small customization will be that we'll have an extra toe rail that extends across the top of the Transom, so we'll now have to deal with the Flagstaff, but that shouldn't be difficult.

We'll post some pics as soon as we get something to show...
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ClassicBoats View Post
The Robbe couplers -which were fairly expensive, by the way- reported to be the best, just didn't deliver as advertised. Every time we applied a bit of power to them, they began to separate. Maybe they're designed to do that in an emergency situation, but not all the time without any load on the props.
I had the same issue. Put a couple drops of CA on the brass, stuffed it into the plastic housing, no more slippage.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Hey Barry! Good to hear from you again. I've never used the Robbe couplers but it looks like with that much separation you may have too much play in the shaft. Also under way the props would be pushing against the couplers and not pulling away from them. I was going to suggest some CA on the splines too. Your problem with the MACK coupler was probably a parts mixup at the builders. I've used their couplers for years and never had a problem.
Anyway glad you got the problem solved so maybe we'll see the lady on the water pretty soon. Pete
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:27 AM
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It sounds like your drive shaft is not locked in and is moving.
I make sure that the coupler is up to the stern tube, if not then a collett on the shaft to keep it from moving.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Good point GIll.I too have used a collar to keep the shaft snug in it's tubing and that works well. The collar I used was the same as what is used to keep wheels on the wire on model aiplanes. Pete
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 01:18 AM
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Toe Rails, cont'd.

We'll post some pics as soon as we get something to show...

We decided to do the shaping after installation rather than before, to ensure a good match to the Bow Pieces (BP). The portside Toe Rail (TR) is now permanently glued in place and we just finished glueing in the portside Rear Toe Rail that goes above the Transom (this is not in the original Sterling kit). With the Flagstaff sitting right in the way, it required splitting this piece in two; you can see the detail of how it all should look when complete.

Tomorrow we'll try to install the starboard rails, then we can start shaping them.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 08:43 PM
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Toe Rails, cont'd.

We started shaping the portside TR today ... it's starting off ok, I think. If we can just keep the curve flowing down to amidship, we might have it made.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 06:28 AM
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Just think Barry. With this boat nearing completion you can start planning on the other four boats you want to build. I still have plans and patterns for the 42' Corvette and the 50' Catalina if you need them. That would be three of the big CC models so what are the other two? Pete
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 07:57 AM
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Woodwork

TOP NOTCH woodwork ..... its guys like you that I learn from every time...
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Old Apr 11, 2011, 07:15 PM
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Toe Rails, completed

All the Toe Rails (TR) have now been permanently glued in place, shaped and sanded, ready for polyurethane.

Here's an updated set of pics, we couldn't resist placing some of the fittings in as well. We sure do like these rails they give a nice "finished" appearance to the decks, I think.

I don't think we have any more excuses for not installing the Upper Cabin Windshield now. We know it has to be done, it's just that if we've forgotten anything at all, it'll be murder to get in that cabin to do it.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 07:46 AM
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Just plain beautiful Barry. Just plain beautiful. Pete
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by woodybob View Post
I had the same issue. Put a couple drops of CA on the brass, stuffed it into the plastic housing, no more slippage.
Actually I had thought of that, but just for the slightest moment. I haven't been using CA very long and I was worried that it might have not bonded or worse, reacted with the nylon/plastic of the coupler and damaged it for good, rendering it impossible to return.

But why did it occur in the first place? Lower quality control stds at manufacture? Just a faulty one that got by? Poorer materials? Excessive torque by my setup?

In all my other boats I've used the MACK or look alike Graupner couplers and other than occassionally coming loose on the shafts I've never had any issues with them. And speaking of torque ... even in my Slo-mo-shun IV! This time our local Hobby Shop was out of them and I settled for the Robbe ones.

Cheers Barry.
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 05:59 PM
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Hey Barry! Good to hear from you again. I've never used the Robbe couplers but it looks like with that much separation you may have too much play in the shaft. Also under way the props would be pushing against the couplers and not pulling away from them. I was going to suggest some CA on the splines too. Your problem with the MACK coupler was probably a parts mixup at the builders. I've used their couplers for years and never had a problem.
Anyway glad you got the problem solved so maybe we'll see the lady on the water pretty soon. Pete
I've now tried the same bench test with the modified MACK couplers with no problem, so I'm inclined to think it just might have been a pair of faulty ones.

As far as getting the Lady in the water, that is going to have to happen very soon ... I'm running out of patience. I want to play with it too much.

Cheers Barry
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by GILL RC View Post
It sounds like your drive shaft is not locked in and is moving.
I make sure that the coupler is up to the stern tube, if not then a collett on the shaft to keep it from moving.
My drive shaft is definitely not locked in, and none of my boats have ever had any locked in. I know that Dumas does that in their kits -and they're whom I mostly follow since my first boat was after a Dumas kit.

But I always thought that everything would be fine if I just filed down a flat spot on the shafts and tighten the screws into that area. If I have any more problems I'll have to start adding a lock collect on the shaft on either ends of the stuffing box, I guess.

Cheers Barry
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by norgale View Post
Just think Barry. With this boat nearing completion you can start planning on the other four boats you want to build. I still have plans and patterns for the 42' Corvette and the 50' Catalina if you need them. That would be three of the big CC models so what are the other two? Pete
I'm not sure what I'm going to build next Pete; I have a number of choices available now. I do have the 42' Corvette & a 50' Catalina (both of which I thought I got from you, but maybe not) as well as a 36' Commander, a 42' Constellation, a 40' Challenger, a 35' Sport Fisher and a couple of different Runabouts. Maybe something quite different ... I have been thinking about the Baby Bootlegger for a while now or one of my kits, maybe the Typhoon or Century Sea Maid. Hard to say at this point.

Cheers Barry
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Old Apr 12, 2011, 06:53 PM
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TOP NOTCH woodwork ..... its guys like you that I learn from every time...
Thanks Tim, but you're far too kind. One day I'll have to bring her down to SF to that Spreckels place and maybe you could get a look at her then. She only looks good from a distance and in photos, they don't show all the little mistakes. But thanks anyway, comments like yours are very encouraging to an amateur like me.

Cheers Barry
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Old Apr 13, 2011, 06:09 AM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
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Way to go, Barry, she is lookin' wooooonde-full!! Seriously, very good job! You have a model to be proud of!

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TOP NOTCH woodwork ..... its guys like you that I learn from every time...
I will second that!
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Old Apr 13, 2011, 12:27 PM
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Thanks Tim, but you're far too kind. One day I'll have to bring her down to SF to that Spreckels place and maybe you could get a look at her then. She only looks good from a distance and in photos, they don't show all the little mistakes. But thanks anyway, comments like yours are very encouraging to an amateur like me.

Cheers Barry
Barry, your no amateur to this, we can all see ... you worked hard on something special to you and it shows ... seems we only live once, so spending our time creating art instead of tearing it down may be what its all about..
Cheers Indeed !
Summer is coming.
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 05:17 PM
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Hull Mouldings

Just to finish off the Hull around the Toe Rails, we took pieces of 3/32" square balsa (just reinforced my dislike of balsa), sanded them into half-rounds and permanently glued them all in place around the top sides of the Hull. To try to minimize the damage to the balsa from clamping, we folded pieces of router mat in two and placed them beneath the clamp heads over the Mouldings (we just realized we'd been misspelling "mouldings" all this time, too). One of the reasons we don't like working with balsa is it's softness and once again, even with the clamp dampening mat pieces, we managed to dent it in many spots. Next time we'll try basswood.

After they were dry, we polyurethaned them and the outer surface of the Toe Rails with clear gloss. The Mouldings will be painted white, like the Hull sides and the Toe Rails left their natural mahogany. We might try applying a very narrow strip of aluminum "foil" down the middle of the Mouldings just to top them off; we'll see.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 05:27 PM
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Upper Cabin - Windshield installation

Finally, we decided to start the installation of the 3 parts of the Upper Cabin Windshield W3 & (2)W4s. We started by final fitting the pieces together. Then we glued all 3 pieces together (side by side) while clamping them in place to ensure a nice tight fit and the correct angles.

When this is dry, we'll permanently glue the whole assembly in place. This should happen some time tomorrow, if all goes well.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 23, 2011, 03:07 AM
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Upper Cabin - Windshield installation

Well we didn't quite get the windshield installed today - too much sunshine outside and too much yard work to do. However, we did get some time this evening to try something I'd wanted to do all along ... Windshield Wipers. According to what I can see in the Sterling plan sheets, only the Upper Windshield has them. So if we were going to do them, it was now or never.

After drilling the necessary holes in the windshield frames, we bent some brass wires to shape, glued on strips of styrene and made "motor housings" to fit on the inside. We have no real idea what colours to paint any of this, but I figure flat black for the blades and metallic brass for the motor housings.

They're not the greatest, but I think they may pass as reasonable facsimilies of the real ones.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 05:40 PM
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I think the motors should be silver and the blade itself flat black. The blade arm silver too. Pete
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 10:52 PM
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Upper Cabin - Windshield complete

I think you're correct Pete; however it's too late now for the motors ... the windshield has now been permanently glued in place. There's no way in he$$ we'll ever get a paintbrush in there. We can paint the outside blade arm silver though and that's what we'll do.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 01:53 PM
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Upper Cabin - Windshield complete, really!!

Took the clamps etc off this morning and it looks alright. We'll try to get some reinforcement inside where ever we can reach, then finish painting the wipers.

Next thing will be to install the Upper Cabin Side Windows and finish the interior furnishings.

Meanwhile, we'll have to start on the Railing(s). I think I have figured out how I'm going to do them, we'll see.

Cheers Barry

Oh yes, in my spare time we'll have to get back to finishing the designs and milling the rest of the fittings.
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 06:49 PM
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The level of detail on this project is really nice. Keep up the great work.
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Old Apr 28, 2011, 03:18 AM
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Railings, started

Thanks Pre, I hope it's going to look ok when it's done ... if it ever gets done!!

We started on the "railings" which really means we're working on:
(1) wood Railings, (2) metal Stanchions and (3) canvas Privacy Panels.

For the wooden railings we're trying to decide whether to make them out of mahogany or teak. We're leaning towards the mahogany since we don't really have the heart to cut up this beautiful teak board we have, but we'll see.

For the metal stanchions -which are really composed of the vertical stanchions and the brackets on the deck- we're using 3/32" Od aluminum tubing. For the brackets we'll just CAD design them then mill wax models. Since we're going to drill down about ¼" in the decks and catwalks, the brackets will be just for show anyway.

For the canvas privacy panels, we haven't decided yet what kind of material to use. We also noticed that in one of the Sterling plan sheets there is a photo of the rear deck area which clearly shows the railing, stanchions, canvas panels and also what looks to be a rope or wire going through the middle of each stanchion on the inside of the panels. We're going to use white fishing line to simulate this.

The Stanchions have already been cut; there are 40 of them -20 to a side with the foremost 4 being different heights from all the rest. With a ¼" sunk in the decks/catwalks and a 1/16" up inside the railings, these are going to be 2¼" tall with a hole drilled about 1" above the deck level for the "rope".

With all the Stanchions made, the next step is to design and start milling the floor Brackets. We'll try to start that tomorrow.

'till next step ...
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Old Apr 30, 2011, 03:24 AM
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Railings, continued

We managed to spend some time doing the CAD design for the Stanchion Brackets. Here's a couple of photo realistic pics of my interpretation of how they might look.

'till next step ...
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Old May 01, 2011, 01:23 AM
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Railings, continued

Hot off the mill; we just finished milling the first 6 Stanchion Holders/Brackets which will go across the rear of the boat, just above the Transom. I've decided that these 6 will have the "correct" angle for the Stanchions, whereas the rest which go along the cabin sides will have a more upright angle (closer to 90°) so they don't protrude into the Catwalks. But anyways ...

After cleaning out the Stanchion holes (the cutter cannot get all the way through, so there is just the tiniest bit of a taper about halfway down) and sanding off the sprue left overs, we put one up on the Rear Deck to see how it would look. Of course the Stanchion itself is resting on the Deck instead of being down ¼" into it, but regardless it seems to have plenty of stability sitting there. In fact, so much so that I might not need to put holes in the Decks & Catwalks after all.

We'll start milling the remainder tomorrow, hopefully.

'till next step ...
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Old May 01, 2011, 02:19 AM
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Railings, continued

We finished cleaning up the other 5 Stanchion Holders/Brackets and just for fun placed them across the Transom, then placed them down along the starboard Catwalk.

In the view along the Catwalk, you can see what I meant about them leaning in too far (in my opinion). I'm convinced more than ever now, to straighten these up.

'till next step ...
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Old May 01, 2011, 08:13 AM
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Lookin' excellent, Barry! (they really need a little 'envy' smiley. )
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Old May 02, 2011, 07:10 PM
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Railings, continued

Thanks Craig.
We put the smaller version of the Stanchion Holders on the mill this morning and just got them off a few minutes ago. The new version -meant to go down the cabin sides along the Catwalks- has a shorter base and therefore a smaller footprint. The angle is the same for this version, I think it will be ok.

Here are a few photos of them to show the differences. We'll begin a milling run to complete the rest of them as soon as we can.

'till next step ...
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Old May 03, 2011, 03:27 AM
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Railings, continued

We removed, cleaned up and dry fitted the 6 new version Stanchion Holders this evening. I placed them down along the starboard side of the cabins to see how they will look. I think they're going to be fine so tomorrow we'll start to mill the remaining sets.

We filed the bottoms of the aluminum Stanchions so they would be flush with the decks and glued them into their Holders.

The next few days will be awfully repetitious, so we may not get around to putting much progress up until we get to the last 4 at the bow.

'till next step ...
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Old May 03, 2011, 01:38 PM
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And you start taking orders for these when?


Absolutely awsome.
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Old May 03, 2011, 06:33 PM
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Very nice, not much else can be said.

What CAM package do you use?
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Old May 03, 2011, 08:01 PM
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The shorter base looks better but shouldn't it be placed parallel to the toeboard? Then the stancions could be straight up. Will you be making a wood rail for the top? What kind of mill are you using? Those bases look fantastic. Pete
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Old May 03, 2011, 08:29 PM
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Beautiful model with lots of detail.

Ed
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Old May 04, 2011, 12:29 AM
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And you start taking orders for these when?


Absolutely awsome.
Thanks green-boat. We'll start taking orders when I've finished this boat; at that point I should've finished the design and milling of every piece. Hopefully that won't be too long from now.

Cheers Barry
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Old May 04, 2011, 01:41 AM
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Very nice, not much else can be said.

What CAM package do you use?
Thanks JamesBC; The 3D design work is done with a jewellers CAD package by Gemvision called Matrix. It uses a CAD engine -which might be a little more widely known, called Rhino by McNeal. Basically every piece is designed as if it was a piece of jewellery first. The CAM part of the operation uses a Revo-B mill, again from Gemvision.

Here's a few pics of the software & hardware for you ...

I'm not sure if I've shown any of this before, my apologies if I have.

Once the wax model has been made, we can make a mould of it, which can be used in the "Lost Wax" process to cast it in, say brass, then plate it.

Hope this helps...
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Old May 04, 2011, 01:46 AM
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The shorter base looks better but shouldn't it be placed parallel to the toeboard? Then the stancions could be straight up. Will you be making a wood rail for the top? What kind of mill are you using? Those bases look fantastic. Pete
Hi Pete,
Nope, they shouldn't be ||, see the bitmap in the Topdown view in my previous post.

Yes, we've decided to use mahogany, for the railings proper, I think (latest decision anyway).

See the previous post for the Mill.

Cheers Barry
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Old May 04, 2011, 01:47 AM
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Beautiful model with lots of detail.
Ed
Thanks Ed. Glad you're enjoying it.
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Old May 04, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Thanks, that cam work is far more sophisticated then my Mach3 with Lazy Cam. Plus I just have never learned drafting in 3d. LOL when I got my engineering degree we still used slide rules.

And your scale model is looking great.
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Old May 05, 2011, 05:38 PM
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I studied Architecture and learned how to draw 3d but never saw a slide rule anywhere. Strange world.
Well then Barry I put my stancion bases on all wrong but I ain't gonna change them. The rail I tried to do with the provided mahogany and they cracked making the tun down to the deck at the bow. I tried steaming ,boiling and just soaking in hot water and they split every time. I ended up using some fir sticks and they bent with the heat ok. Stained them mahogany and they came out alright. Hope you have better luck. Maybe with your larger scale the curve won't be as acute and will work better for you. pete
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Old May 05, 2011, 09:49 PM
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Barry
Something to think about building the wood railings. Pete is right about the bend down at the bow the mahogany tends to split very easy. I made mine out of six pieces of 1/8 by 1/8 mahogany strips. Three wide by two high giving me a railing 3/8" by 1/4". Sorry I didn't take pictures of that part of the build. Just my two cents worth. Hope this helps. Great looking boat. I look forward to see each new step. Keep up the great work.
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Old May 06, 2011, 12:42 AM
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I studied Architecture and learned how to draw 3d but never saw a slide rule anywhere. Strange world.
Well then Barry I put my stancion bases on all wrong but I ain't gonna change them. The rail I tried to do with the provided mahogany and they cracked making the tun down to the deck at the bow. I tried steaming ,boiling and just soaking in hot water and they split every time. I ended up using some fir sticks and they bent with the heat ok. Stained them mahogany and they came out alright. Hope you have better luck. Maybe with your larger scale the curve won't be as acute and will work better for you. pete
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Barry
Something to think about building the wood railings. Pete is right about the bend down at the bow the mahogany tends to split very easy. I made mine out of six pieces of 1/8 by 1/8 mahogany strips. Three wide by two high giving me a railing 3/8" by 1/4". Sorry I didn't take pictures of that part of the build. Just my two cents worth. Hope this helps. Great looking boat. I look forward to see each new step. Keep up the great work.
Tinknocker
norgale: Hi Pete, so what about your bases ... it's your model you built it the way you wanted. Isn't that the great advice you gave me a year ago?
I hear you about the mahogany splitting. I believe my larger size is -as you stated- going to make it an easier curve for me. But having said that, I was planning to use the same ammonia soaking trick I used on my Curlew, which had wicked curves. If I soak it for about a week like I did back then, I think it will bend as I want. You guys' will see if it doesn't.

Tinknocker: I was planning to use 3 laminated pieces of 5/16" wide x 1/16" thick mahogany left over from my Curlew. The 3 pieces make it the correct thickness and after dressing it down the width would be about correct also. Right out of the "box" it bends almost to the required curve downward, so I'm expecting, after a proper soak it will bend all the way.
I am very impressed that you were able to get your 6 laminated pieces to work out the way you wanted, that's amazing.

The thing that bothers me is that I won't have anything much to clamp a railing to while it dries. The stanchions sure won't we able to take the torsional pressure, so I think I'm going to have to build some kind of jig that I can hold them to while they dry out from the ammonia & then the glueing. I would like to have each railing already bent to shape before attaching them to the stanchions.

Cheers Barry, Thanks for your help here guys!
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Old May 06, 2011, 08:51 PM
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You're right Barry you need to build a jig and make your bends before mounting on the boat. I laid out the curve on board then drove finish nails along the lines to make the bend. After that I built up the laminations between the nails. The glue was Tite Bond III for long postioning time.
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Old May 08, 2011, 09:44 PM
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You're right Barry you need to build a jig and make your bends before mounting on the boat. I laid out the curve on board then drove finish nails along the lines to make the bend. After that I built up the laminations between the nails. The glue was Tite Bond III for long postioning time.
Tinknocker
Thanks Tinknocker: Your jig method sounds easier than what I was originally thinking. By the way, did you post any pictures of your jig on your Build Log?
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Old May 09, 2011, 09:38 PM
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So sorry I didn't take pictures of the jig. At the time I didn't think something like that would be of interest. The next build log I will know better and take more pictures as you have done. Building that railing will really test your patience but it is worth the time and effort.
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Old May 09, 2011, 10:13 PM
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So sorry I didn't take pictures of the jig. At the time I didn't think something like that would be of interest. The next build log I will know better and take more pictures as you have done. Building that railing will really test your patience but it is worth the time and effort.
Tinknocker
Hi Tinknocker, "Building that railing will really test your patience" boy, I sure can see that coming! Wish me luck.
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Old May 12, 2011, 08:06 PM
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Railings, continued

Well the jig is made; basically just like you said Tinknocker, a template taped on a board with nails along the perimeter.

Next soaking the wood; we've just made our own set of soaking tubes - a 4 ft and a 5 ft, filled them with ammonia and we'll let them "cook" for a couple of days. My previous tubes were borrowed from my neighbour & fellow boat modeller, Joe.

Here's a few shots to show the processes.

'till next step ...
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Old May 12, 2011, 09:13 PM
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Good looking jig you have there Barry. It should the job for you. Once the wood dries it will be easier to work with but it is still a pain to work with. I put the first two strips down between the nails and glued them. When they dried I did the next two, then finally the last pair. Each Pair dried overnight. When everything is dry it is still quite fragile so handle with care. Good luck but I know yours will turn great.
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Old May 13, 2011, 05:04 PM
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Railings, continued

Since the weather-man said that today is the one & only nice, sunny day we're about to get for the next 6 months ... we decided to open up the ammonia tube and see how the mahogany strips were doing.

Again, since this ammonia is FAR stronger than anything we've ever used before, we did the opening etc out in the back yard where there was lots of air circulation and we put on a dust mask (not that it would save me from anything serious) that did help more than we thought it would, actually.

Now, remember this is barely 24 hrs since we put the strips in the ammonia. As you can see from the pics the wood is more than "cooked" for the jig and more! See the pics where a strip is twisted 360° over about 18" and made into about a 6" circle. All without any damage to the wood ... no cracking, peeling or ripping. IF you can put up with the smell this has got to be the easiest way to bend wood.

We'll leave these strips in the jig overnight and they should be ready for glueing tomorrow, then rough shaping and dry fitting the day after, maybe. I can't remember if I washed out the ammonia when I built "Curlew", we may have to with this strength, we'll see.

Pardon my use of the expression "cooked", but I don't know what else to call it. I remember Craig_C (I think) put up a dissertation on this subject some time ago but I don't remember the scientific term for the process.

'till next step ...
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Old May 13, 2011, 09:31 PM
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Me Too !

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And you start taking orders for these when?


Absolutely awsome.
Me some Too, Please !
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Old May 13, 2011, 09:32 PM
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Good on Ya. The bend is a little tight but that is good. It is eay to open a tight bend.
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Old May 14, 2011, 12:15 AM
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"Cooked" ain't a bad term... plasticizing would be more accurate though as the ammonia softens the materials that bond the wood cells together into a solid matrix allowing them to slip and slide against each other (or at least that's the current theory as to how this works).

As the ammonia out-gasses (evaporates) from the wood, the "glues" between the cells re-harden and regain their strength and the wood stiffens again holding its new shape.

If the solution you purchased was just ammonia dissolved in water, then the ammonia will just evaporate, you don't need to 'wash' it out; just let the wood dry naturally. Some cleaners also have detergents or surfactant oils mixed in as well.

29% is much stronger, almost triple the concentration of most 'household products' (usually 10% or less, but never over 15%) available. The strongest possible solution of ammonia is laboratory grade ammonia hydroxide, 35% by weight at 60 °F.

Glad this worked out so well for you. As always, your project is lookin' stupendous
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Old May 16, 2011, 05:18 PM
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Way to go Barry. Wish I had known about ammonia back when I built my 63. I broke all kinds of sticks trying to make that curve on the rails. Finally did it with hot water and a jig much like the one your using. Live and learn. Pete
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Old May 18, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Railings, continued

Thanks Guys.

But we don't have the entire problem solved quite yet. As you can see from the 1st couple of pics, there is still the matter of the curve around the shear that we must contend with. What we're thinking here is to glue all 3 pieces together, then soak those assemblies in the ammonia and finally put them into another jig that will apply the horizonal curve around the shear. Trouble is, we don't know whether the Tite Bond III can hold up under attack from the ammonia; so we're going to experiment first to find out.

The last problem is the Railing that goes around the Transom. That curve is also too sharp for these strips to bear as they are, so what we're going to do with these is: cut each of the 3 strips in half; then laminate two sets of 3 together; then glue the two sets together to obtain a single piece that is the required width for the Transom Railing. At this point we can "cook" this piece overnight in the ammonia and easily fit it to a 3rd jig that will mimick the curve around the Transom.

On a better note, we've finished almost all of the Stanchions and their holders. Only need to mill one more set actually. As you can see we've also cut the tops of all the Stanchions on the same angle as their bottoms so they will fit the wood Railings better when they're done.

'till next step ...
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Old May 18, 2011, 05:22 AM
Woodfumbler......
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Amazing..
It looks so easy when you do it...

I for sure will keep this as a reference, to use when i got to make something like it..

Thanks...
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Old May 18, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Railings, continued

Tonight we may find out if there's any reaction between the glue & the ammonia, we'll see ... there's a hockey game on, so we may not get to it.

This morning we concentrated on preparing the Transom Railing "R". We first took the 3 pieces of 1/16" x 5/16" mahogany strips and using a Balsa Cutter, cut each in half lengthwise. Next we'll make another jig that matches the Transom Railing and after soaking all 6 halves of mahogany overnight in ammonia, make them conform to the required curve. When dry, we'll laminate them all together side-by-side.

You can see from the pics that all 6 half-strips are roughly equal in width to that of one full strip (ie. the width of the other Railing pieces). Also, you can see that each one of the 6 half-strips is roughly equal to the thickness of 3 full sized strips (which we're using for the other Railing parts).

The reason we're even bothering to do this is due to the way the mahogany strips were cut from the rough boards; their natural bend is perpendicular to their width (this may be what's termed "quarter sawn", I'm not sure). By flipping the strips over 90°, we'll use the natural curve to easily go around the required bend of the Transom.

'till next step ...
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Old May 19, 2011, 10:14 PM
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Railings, continued

We have an update on the state of the glued mahogany strips after being immersed in ammonia overnight ... the glue holds it's strength and shows no side effects!

Honestly, I wouldn't have believed it, but it looks like everything is ok. In fact, it may be an even stronger bond. Typically we can take hold of a Tite Bond III joint a day later (sometimes up to a few days later) and bend the wood, or twist the bond, but not in this case. We can't even bend or distort the wood when using pliers on both ends! Although the pieces are pretty short.

So that means we'll likely have to put the Railings back in ammonia before glueing in order to obtain the horizontal curve needed to bend around the shears. I'm afraid that if we go ahead and glue these strips together like this, when they come out of the ammonia a 2nd time they may never bend again.

'till next step ...
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Old May 20, 2011, 04:50 PM
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Railings, continued

We won't get much work done today, tonight or even this weekend ... long weekend here and we're off camping. But we did get the 6 half-strips soaked in boiling hot water and placed into their jig for the Transom Railing R. Again, there was no need for the ammonia with these, probably didn't even need the hot water.

'till next step ...
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Old May 25, 2011, 02:00 AM
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Railings, continued

Work continues on the aft Transom Railing "R". Late last night we glued the 6 half strips together after having them sit in the jig over the weekend and this afternoon we rough sanded them to shape.

Before leaving for the weekend, we had a bit of a "crazy thought" with regard to the Side Railings and after a bit of clamping we've decided that resoaking in the ammonia might not be necessary after all. We clamped the unglued side railing strips to the deck & catwalk just inside the Toe Rails - which would mimick the horizontal curve we were worried about. To our complete surprise they took the bending without breaking or cracking. So as soon as we get the chance we're going to soak them in hot water for a few hours and clamp them down along the same curve.

'till next step ...
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Old May 26, 2011, 04:14 PM
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Railings, continued

Problem: How to drill holes in the undersides of all the Railings at the correct angle and not cut a hole in the top surface?

My answer was another jig (I'm getting to like these wonderful things). Basically, the Railing is clamped onto the jig and using a pin vice with the 3/32" drill bit, we simply drill up into the bottom. As you can see from the accompanying pics it seems to have worked out well. The biggest challenge was determining the proper placement of the Railing in order to get the hole drilled in the middle of the Railing piece.

We'll start marking out where the Stanchions are going to be fitted under the Railings and drill out the required notches. Everything is still being dry fitted at this stage.

We still haven't got around to soaking the Side Railings yet ... Sorry, too much hockey!

'till next step ...
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Old May 26, 2011, 06:43 PM
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Your attention to details is remarkable and time-consuming, but it will pay off in the end result, an incredibly impressive rendition of this model in a stunning size. She will truly be museum-worthy.
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Old May 27, 2011, 02:07 AM
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Railings, continued

Thanks Jeepers, but I wouldn't in my wildest imagination ever consider this model as "museum-worthy". It's not bad, mind you; but not even in the same league, let alone same ballpark as many that I've seen on this forum. But, seriously, Thanks again.

Well, with no hockey (huge sigh) tonight, we decided to get off our duff and soak the Side Railings. As we suspected though, most of the beautiful curve we'd imparted to the pieces has dissappeared. No worry though, we think; after drying these we'll just immerse the front 6" or so in ammonia to restore the curve. Hopefully. Worst case scenario, we'll have to make another jig just for the downwards curve.

They should be fully dried by tomorrow, at which time we'll try to setup for the front vertical curve. But don't bet on it, there's a great hockey game on tomorrow that we must watch.

'till next step ...
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Old Jun 01, 2011, 06:50 PM
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Update

We wish we'd been able to make a few updates earler in the week, but our internet provider apparently had other ideas. We've had 5 days out over the past couple of weeks ... we're ready to deduct the non-service from our monthly bill.

To keep you up to date; we have finished painting the Stanchion holders and both laminated and refreshed the vertical curve on both the Side Railings. And in between drying, finalized the placement of the Receiver with all the cables running under the floors out of sight. We're hoping to get a range check at or before the first sea trials in a couple of weeks. We only need to do a bit of touch up painting on the hull, then do a final resin coat before we put her in the water. Right now we've got a very important hockey game to watch, but we'll try to post some progress later tonight.

Cheers Barry
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 01:39 AM
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Railings, continued

We also were able to fully laminate the 3 strips for each of the Side Railings and in doing so we were also able to have them match the curve of the shears (the horizontal curve). We decided not to glue the part that curved down towards the decking, thinking that could be done later, back in the jig.

After gluing the 3 strips together (at least as far down as the front downward curve) we placed the waxed paper back down along the Catwalks and used the heavy clamps to keep the strips pushed up against the insides of the Toe Rails to match their curve around the shears. After drying for a day, we took each Side Railing off and glued the front downward curve portion and placed it back into the jig and used the heavy clamps once again to keep the Railing true and upright since there was a definite tendency for the previously glued portion to "twist" while the glue dried.

Both Side Railings have now been fully laminated and are ready for rough sanding to shape. In addition, an extension has to be scarfed to the aft end of them to make the required length down the hull -a little longer than the original 46" length of the strips.

At the bow, while the Side Railings now have the required horizontal curve it looks like there just might be an additional strain on the Stanchions once attached to the Railings as they are trying to pull them in towards the centre of the decks. So, to make sure this doesn't happen we've been thinking we just might have to insert some kind of rod into the decking that extends up into those Stanchions to keep them in place. We'll see.

'till next step ...
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 01:53 AM
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Electronics

We somewhat finished the details for the rudder servo and the ESC cables. To make things easier in the future, we decided to put all the cables under the flooring as much as possible.

The only caveat might be a bit poorer reception with the receiver so low in the hull -almost at the waterline. Although the one in our Dauntless is, in fact, below the waterline by a great deal and we've never had any issues there. But it's receiver isn't a park flyer like this one, rather two receivers coupled together. We'll see how it goes.

The idea is to have the receiver sitting vertically with all the cabling under the floor F3 and the antenae above the floor but inside the shell of the aft bed in the Guest Stateroom.

'till next step ...
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 08:46 AM
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Meuseum worthy

[QUOTE=ClassicBoats;18344836]Thanks Jeepers, but I wouldn't in my wildest imagination ever consider this model as "museum-worthy". It's not bad, mind you; but not even in the same league, let alone same ballpark as many that I've seen on this forum. But, seriously, Thanks again.


ClassicBoats, just start your own meuseum !
You have overcome so many unavoidable challenges so well ...
Like nobody told you it couldn't be done or something...
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