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Old Aug 29, 2010, 06:49 AM
RC-Kraut
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I flew my Squall! lots of lipos this weekend. The 4s stock version with TV unit. I think she goes about 85mph - not fast as hell, but I like it much. The TV unit is a gift, as I now finally managed to sit her just down, without scrapping along on its inlet. Funny, first I was with the TV rods on the outer servoarmholes (ca. 10mm from its axis) - and I had to much thrusting effect, I couldnt speed it up, as it immediately climbed or drifted or did a high alpha. In the next hole about 7mm from the servo axis the TV effect was to weak. I now have to drill holes in between . Can anyone confirm me that the TV steering rods should be about 8-9mm away from the servos axis? I want not to much TV effect, only a bit, if the sticks are completely moved.
All in all a very nice jet, a winner!
markus
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Old Aug 29, 2010, 05:08 PM
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Los Angeles Intl, California, United States
Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by relaxr View Post
I flew my Squall! lots of lipos this weekend. The 4s stock version with TV unit. I think she goes about 85mph - not fast as hell, but I like it much. The TV unit is a gift, as I now finally managed to sit her just down, without scrapping along on its inlet. Funny, first I was with the TV rods on the outer servoarmholes (ca. 10mm from its axis) - and I had to much thrusting effect, I couldnt speed it up, as it immediately climbed or drifted or did a high alpha. In the next hole about 7mm from the servo axis the TV effect was to weak. I now have to drill holes in between . Can anyone confirm me that the TV steering rods should be about 8-9mm away from the servos axis? I want not to much TV effect, only a bit, if the sticks are completely moved.
All in all a very nice jet, a winner!
markus

The instructions state 8.5mm.

I maidened my Squall 4S/TV today and I felt it flew 'heavier' than the 3S model. It seemed much more nose heavy than my original though they were balanced the same.

I'll need to get a few more flights on it to trim it out and get to know it.
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 12:09 AM
RC-Kraut
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Joined Feb 2006
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Yep I planned for the next try around 8 mm distance from TV rod to servocenter - I will see. My CG is now at 50mm (10mm more in front), the manual says 60-70mm. This 70mm are imho deadly. Yes it flies a bit heavy, but if moving fast its getting better. The best is to drift/slide it through turns like a freewheeling powered car . I also have the feeling that the CG moves step by step forward with increasing AUW. My first HET variant with 950gr had its CG at 45mm.

My dream for those jets would be an adjustable outlet nozzle, which can be closed and opened for modulating torque and efflux speed, as needed. Has anyone an idea how to do something like this?
markus
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 09:00 AM
chuck
santa barbara, CA
Joined May 2009
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[QUOTE=relaxr;15918733] I also have the feeling that the CG moves step by step forward with increasing AUW. My first HET variant with 950gr had its CG at 45mm.

i think you are correct on the cg and auw. seems there has been lots of talk of heavier squalls being unstable at stock cg even though light ones are very stable at the same spec.

as with most delta wing airframes, i think there inherently unstable, so we make them nose heavy and counter with reflex, the more the wing loading , the more forward cg and more reflex or speed to compensate.

chuck.
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 10:26 AM
RC-Kraut
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The safest way to find the CG of modified Squalls! is to go far in front (stock 4s HP, approx. 50-55mm(my settings), 800gr-1kg, 40-45mm, > 1kg 40mm (or less?)and then go slowly (2 mm Steps) backwards while looking on the up trim of the elevons after a level flight. From 0 trim to some traces of up trim you are correct with the CG. Beware of the tail heavyness, as it will nose up into a spin and never come out, as every thrust push wil just rotate it - without thrust the missing weight in front will keep it spinning nose up. Cruel to suffer from this - I felt really helpless. But what the ++++, fix it or buy a new one you need one
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 03:53 PM
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Paris - France
Joined Jul 2008
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Hello
I have a question about the EDF turbine. I got 2w20 with a Het turbine 6904. This one is longer than the stock one.
Where exactly do you place it inside the pipe ? The rear at the same place than the rear of the stock turbine ? or the front at the same place than the front of the stock turbine ?
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 06:54 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Palm Beach County, Fl.
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If you go from the front it will balance better using heavier batt packs.
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
If you go from the front it will balance better using heavier batt packs.
What do you consider "heavier battery packs". ??

I want good vertical performance, but not at the expense of a short flight time. Is that asking too much. ??
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 07:23 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Well a 2w-20 is heavier than a stock squall motor, the het fan is longer and he's gonna need at least a 100 amp esc so for flight time, batt longevity, and over all reliability a turnigy 3000 40c to a 3.3 30c. and some 65mg's. more power is more weight needs more structual attention etc. Stock can be souped up with some 2650's and a bit heavier duty esc. The rest is up to you!
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Old Aug 30, 2010, 07:34 PM
I added lift to my stable!
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Knoxville, TN
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Well a 2w-20 is heavier than a stock squall motor, the het fan is longer and he's gonna need at least a 100 amp esc so for flight time, batt longevity, and over all reliability a turnigy 3000 40c to a 3.3 30c. and some 65mg's. more power is more weight needs more structual attention etc. Stock can be souped up with some 2650's and a bit heavier duty esc. The rest is up to you!
Electric Jet Factory sells a complete set that they say is perfect for this application. It includes the 2W20, HET 6904 and a HET 75A ESC. Apex, I'm not making an argument with your statement, I just dont understand why there seems to be so much misinformation, information that conflicts with other previously posted information etc. I still havent built my Squall! yet, but I bought the 3S with the TV unit. After reading these forums and talking to Electric Jet Factory (these guys have been in EDF since the beginning) and asking many many questions on here, I spec'd out my Squall! with the 2W20 and HET 6904 and the HET75A mentioned above . . . now I see someone saying that this setup would need at least a 100A ESC. What gives?

Anyone?

Tbird
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 02:43 AM
RC-Kraut
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. . . here in germany the 2W20 / 6904 combo is sold with 65-72A ESCs, which works for high-ampered 4s Lipos! Its a so called "drive set" configured by HET themselfes. The 100A may be a very short, static peak on throttling up or may relate to strongly narrowed outlet nozzles (70% FSA or so). But - for a standard conversion of a stock Squall! your drive should consume in flight max. 60-65 A and work very well tbird! With your 75A ESC you are "megasafe". Otherwise offering this drive-sets would be a bad business for the shops, as lots of reclamations would spoil business.

tbird I would be happy to find your reports here, as I also think about a 2W20 Squall!

As a proof: http://www.alex-rc-corner.de/epages/...T%20DS%2004%22



markus
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Last edited by relaxr; Aug 31, 2010 at 02:48 AM.
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 04:41 AM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Palm Beach County, Fl.
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Sorry for the scare in my statement but it is more or less a blanket statement ment to cover ones six as I wouldn't want to see any esc's burn up from heavier C' batteries etc. Personally I toasted a 85 amp and a 90 amp and now only buy 125 amp esc's for 70mm systems. These hard learned lessons are why I say buy cheap buy twice and am only trying to assist for the long haul. Again, the rest is up to you.
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 07:06 AM
RC-Kraut
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apex is your outlet narrowed for max efflux speed? Otherwise, I cant explain your ESC losses maybe thermal problems on the ESC, from its position.....
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 07:27 AM
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Paris - France
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Well a 2w-20 is heavier than a stock squall motor, the het fan is longer and he's gonna need at least a 100 amp esc so for flight time, batt longevity, and over all reliability a turnigy 3000 40c to a 3.3 30c. and some 65mg's. more power is more weight needs more structual attention etc. Stock can be souped up with some 2650's and a bit heavier duty esc. The rest is up to you!
Well I was using it on my Twister with a 2600/30C Pack and a turnigy 60A controller and it was working fine. The Squall being lighter than the Twister I certainly won't need full power during all flight.
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Old Aug 31, 2010, 07:49 AM
RC-Kraut
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what flight times would you expect for a 2W-20/6904 and 4S 2600/30Cs on a Squall! in mixed flight (70% cruising/30% steam) ?
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