here are a couple of pictures my buddy took of my squall.....usually it's going by too fast....

My stock squall goes 103mph.i dont know why people have trouble with launch or with geting speed out of it.if you take an hour to clean it up when you take it out of the box,you should easily get 90 mph out of it.i cleaned mine up by sharpening all the trailing edges,i sharpened the intake lip,but only after i layed some carbon unidirectional fibers on the lip,then sanded it till it was razor sharp.i also extended the intake 3 inches.and now i get some very good speed runs.i have the video posted here.i have bought 6 of these planes and have 3 left,lol.its such a fun plane,even though i have terrible eye sight.....thanks

Does anyone have any interest in buying my 4S Squall? It would be a local pickup.

I need to give it to a new home, someone who will fly it more than me, because it;s a bit too loud for where i live and i've attracted some unwanted attention with it last time. The only think you would need is a radio, otherwise everything else is included (including 2 4s 2100 30c packs)

Hi, all,

I've read a good part of this thread and can't remember if others have reported this problem. On my third flight, at about 1/2 throttle, the motor mount broke, tilting and wedging the fan in the housing. Landed OK, but that shouldn't happen! LHS talked with distributor and got a new fuse and EDF, but no decals, and no nose and tail plastic pieces. So now I'm trying to decide what to do. Rip old one apart, or build new.

I will try to reinforce the mount with glass/epoxy in places where the other broke. We'll see...

Just a word of warning to others.

Flyr John in Floyd VA

That is very unfortunate. I haven't heard of any of them breaking. Was your fan unit balanced properly?

Originally Posted by jhark37

Hi, all,

I've read a good part of this thread and can't remember if others have reported this problem. On my third flight, at about 1/2 throttle, the motor mount broke, tilting and wedging the fan in the housing. Landed OK, but that shouldn't happen! LHS talked with distributor and got a new fuse and EDF, but no decals, and no nose and tail plastic pieces. So now I'm trying to decide what to do. Rip old one apart, or build new.

I will try to reinforce the mount with glass/epoxy in places where the other broke. We'll see...

Just a word of warning to others.

Flyr John in Floyd VA

Can you post any pictures? I have not heard of this....did you "Locktite" the screws....I broke the center mount on F16 because the screws got loose...and the vibrations craked it. Took it apart to try a new motor and every spoke was broken....saved a crash or loss of the plane....

A thought similar to mjdee also came to my mind...........did you locktite the screws? Keep in mind that the locktite fluid will Slowly soften the plastic fan parts, severely weakening them. That plastic will turn too goo fairly quickly, so it is vital that locktite fluid never touches the plastic anywhere.

A very good builder/build thread for my HET F-20 showed how he uses a toothpick to lightly dab the locktite into the motor screw threads so the fluid can't get to the plastic....he called it VITAL.
Hope you get it fixed up and flying again soon,
Ken

Hi guys,
My experience is limited on the P3 shroud but I did notice 3 heavy stators and 3 light stators, the motor mount can hold a 29mm motor. So me, I put in a Neu motor and a new HET blade, get it all trued up on 3s then put 5s to it and it fragged on me! The stators let go and just like jhark37 it spit out the pieces.
John I have the plastic you need.
I need a tunnel....
Tom

Originally Posted by CSI

A thought similar to mjdee also came to my mind...........did you locktite the screws? Keep in mind that the locktite fluid will Slowly soften the plastic fan parts, severely weakening them. That plastic will turn too goo fairly quickly, so it is vital that locktite fluid never touches the plastic anywhere.

A very good builder/build thread for my HET F-20 showed how he uses a toothpick to lightly dab the locktite into the motor screw threads so the fluid can't get to the plastic....he called it VITAL.
Hope you get it fixed up and flying again soon,

Ken

I've been reading about the LockTite issue, and can assure you I did not use it. Checked to make sure all screws were tight, nothing more. I'll try to take and post a couple of pics. The failures occurred at the shoulders of the mount, where it bends into the cylindrical motor holder, not at the screw locations.

Flyr John in Floyd VA

My cure to any plastic melting with the use of locktite is simply put it on the friggin screw and let dry. It works when trying to remove a screw right? It works the same when putting the screw in with dry locktite. Spread the word so the whole planet will know.

Loctite cures in the absense of air, why its called an anaerobic retainer in some parts of the world. I have never had it "dry" on anything, just turn into a greasy mess, unless its used as directed and it cures in the gap between the threads, different grades(or numbers) are for different gap and thread sizes, as well as strength.

What loctite are you using?

Z-42, and the stuff drys all around the lid, it drys up when I put out a drop to dip the tip of the screw in. It drys when the screw is set down. If that isn't enough then try a dab of CA. It will work the same.

just turn into a greasy mess, unless its used as directed and it cures in the gap between the threads

If your brand only drys to a tack try wiping off the excess when it sets some. At least you'll not get the raw liquid on the plastic screw mount area of the housing. It's easier to dip the screw tips and let dry rather than take the time to dab each one as you go.

Originally Posted by Dylwad

I have never had it "dry" on anything, just turn into a greasy mess, unless its used as directed and it cures in the gap between the threads

I have used 3 different brands, and mine does the same thing.

Hi All,

I'm pretty sure I've read and re-read this entire thread and now, it's all kind of running together in my head. Hoping someone can make some quick sense of it . . .

I have on order:

3S Squall
VT/TV unit with linkages
Hitec Optima 7 rx (Hitec Aurora TX)
Turnigy 100A ESC
Deminsion Engineering SportBEC
HS55 servo(s) all the way around
MorganMill full bellypan and esc fairing http://www.morganmill.com/RC/rc-site-10-7-08_032.htm


So the questions:

Can I run this mostly stock 3S model with 4s lipos without other mods or damage?

What performance/flight time can I reallistically expect with 3S Squall and 30c 3S 2200 batteries?

Initially there were some quality concerns with the stock fans/shrouds. Has this been correctly and sufficiently addressed by the factory and how do I tell if my model has the upgraded/improved components?

What is the best "drop-in" fan that will work with factory motor? What is the best "drop-in" upgraded fan/motor combo?

Thanks in advance!

Tbird

I don't have time to read through almost 4000 posts. What is the best solution someone has come up with to keep the nose from digging into the ground when landing?