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Old Feb 07, 2010, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by GLM View Post
Working on the web page right now!

A few more things to do... make the brackets for the fuse etc.

Installation instructions with pictures an specs. will be on the web page too.

Cheers!

Gary
Gary,

Can I buy the long version set now? If so, I will place an order.

Bill
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 04:30 AM
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I did some dives but with no or very little throttle. I will see about getting either a new Squall airframe or the JP MIG-15 with is supposed to do 120mph standard on 4s!

My fan sure doesn't scream as much as your 4 blade in your Sniper video! I wonder if the pitch on the HET 3 blade is very course, it sure looks course and the center is a much smaller diameter than the 4 blade. I might get a 4 blade and see what difference it makes, I guess its all about fan rpm.
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Richardmid1 View Post
I did some dives but with no or very little throttle. I will see about getting either a new Squall airframe or the JP MIG-15 with is supposed to do 120mph standard on 4s!

My fan sure doesn't scream as much as your 4 blade in your Sniper video! I wonder if the pitch on the HET 3 blade is very course, it sure looks course and the center is a much smaller diameter than the 4 blade. I might get a 4 blade and see what difference it makes, I guess its all about fan rpm.
Whoops!!! I figured rpm using the four blade, not the three. I'm comin up with 56,00 rpm!

That's pretty good rpm, but that means your into the 1500ish watts I would say. The HET three blade is a direct copy of the schubler ds-30, which is lightly loaded compared to the four blade.

The four blade will make more amps/watts/thrust, and give you that nice sweet sound
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 08:35 AM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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The HET three blade is a direct copy of the schubler ds-30, which is lightly loaded compared to the four blade.
Where to get one for experiments? I'd think a replica would be cheaper than $200+ for a blade/collett. I was under the impression the 3 blade HET was older tech but to have an impeller or two for testing in a slippery airframe with a high power system would be nice.
edit: Any idea what the rotor dia is on the 3 blade impeller?
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Last edited by ApexAero; Feb 08, 2010 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 09:02 AM
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I got mine in the UK from edfjets.

So im ok on watts and rpm its just the tatty duct thats letting me down! I wonder how much speed im loosing from the airspeed sensor which is mounted on top of the rudder fin and the rubber tubing running either side? The lip of my duct is now rather thick and blunt from all the tap, should I make the lip sharper? How can I make the nose longer and shaper?
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 09:18 AM
Team White Llama!
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Where to get one for experiments? I'd think a replica would be cheaper than $200+ for a blade/collett. I was under the impression the 3 blade HET was older tech but to have an impeller or two for testing in a slippery airframe with a high power system would be nice.
well honestly, it's no better than a 6904 or Wemo Pro. what makes the schubie unique is that it's all carbon (very strong), the HET 3 blade is just a plastic copy.

I would still to the HET/Wemo personally.
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 09:19 AM
Team White Llama!
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Originally Posted by Richardmid1 View Post
I got mine in the UK from edfjets.

So im ok on watts and rpm its just the tatty duct thats letting me down! I wonder how much speed im loosing from the airspeed sensor which is mounted on top of the rudder fin and the rubber tubing running either side? The lip of my duct is now rather thick and blunt from all the tap, should I make the lip sharper? How can I make the nose longer and shaper?
well, i'm only guessing on watts based on RPM, you'd need a wattmeter to tell, or atleast a clamp on amp meter.

If you've got rubber tubing in the open, it's dragging, aswell as anything else. Rounded edges are what you want around your inlet, very smooth rounded edges.

You may just invest in a morgin mills belly pan when it is available.
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GLM View Post
Working on the web page right now!

A few more things to do... make the brackets for the fuse etc.

Installation instructions with pictures an specs. will be on the web page too.

Cheers!

Gary
Very nice work! Do you have a profile pic of what the Squall looks like with with the extended duct?
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Old Feb 08, 2010, 10:49 AM
GLM
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Very nice work! Do you have a profile pic of what the Squall looks like with with the extended duct?
Thanks RemE!

I should but I don't at the moment. I did take a set to the field yesterday and tried them on a friends plane, unfortunately nobody had a camera - including me...

I'm working on the brackets and when I finish I'll take some and post. Please forgive the rattyness of my Squall in advance - it has the bent nose syndrome that these parts were meant to fix...

Gary
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Old Feb 09, 2010, 03:08 AM
GLM
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Hi All,

I'd like to introduce the P3 Sqaull Belly Pan Kit.

This Belly Pan is screw-on protection for the foam Belly Pan and the fragile edges of the intake area. It incorporates three integral parts, the standard length main cover or Belly Pan, the extension and the intake lip.

The main focus of this upgrade is to create a surface tough enough to take less than stellar landings in stride time after time, increase the landing slide or roll out characteristics and be removable for motor compartment servicing. It can be used with an existing aircraft or a brand new kit.

If your pan is already glued on just fit this kit over it and you’re as protected as you can be!

http://morganmill.com/RC/rc-site-10-7-08_032.htm

Hope you like it - Cheers!

Gary
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Last edited by GLM; Feb 12, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 01:04 AM
deltas are cool
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nice work "G" now i dont have to make plugs...i can work on my own planes now ...just kidding looks good and should really help .does this extend the intake ? some guys were asking for the intake to be extended so the plane would'nt dig in .
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 02:03 AM
another MONSTER ?
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Gary,
Can I ask why you didn't make the extended inlet 90-100%FSA.
Not too much trouble to make a seconde proto, is it? Try them both and see which which one you like better. This one is about 4 1/2" longer than stock.
Just a thought.
Gary
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 04:39 AM
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What would making the inlet 90-100% FSA do? Surely that would restrict air flow to the fan?

Can someone work out 80% of my FSA, OD is 69mm and the center hub OD is 24mm, I get it to 51mm ish, does this sound about right?
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Richardmid1 View Post
Can someone work out 80% of my FSA, OD is 69mm and the center hub OD is 24mm, I get it to 51mm ish, does this sound about right?
69mm gives an area of 3739.28 sq.mm
24mm gives an area of 452.39 sq.mm
Swept area = 3286.89 sq.mm

80% of swept area = 2629.51 sq.mm
Converting that back to a circle gives you a diameter of 57.86mm

I hope I understand the "swept area" correctly.

Online calculation
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 01:01 PM
another MONSTER ?
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Valencia, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richardmid1 View Post
What would making the inlet 90-100% FSA do? Surely that would restrict air flow to the fan?

Can someone work out 80% of my FSA, OD is 69mm and the center hub OD is 24mm, I get it to 51mm ish, does this sound about right?
My duct does not follow all the rules, but read up on some of the posts regarding inlet and out design by clausxpf. Of course this doesn't really apply if you jwanna flip around the sky with a TV unit. It's mostly for top end speed.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=clausxpf

Unless i'm missing something. Your "center hub" dia is incorrect, if your using a HET6904. I'm not sure what your measuring. The "motor housing" O.D. should be something greater than 33mm. Yes? I don't have a 6904 that I can measure at the moment, but I think an 80% FSA outlet for that fan is ~52mm.
Gary
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