At this point mix a small batch of epoxy finishing resin, thinned out by a third in volume with Xylene, to make a penetrating resin and coat the transom timbers and transom. This will seal the wood before the transom sub planking is installed later in the build.

I would be tempted at this stage to add lightening/limber holes to the "false" transom in between each of the radius pieces.

looking very nice so far!

The balsa sub planking will be done using the 3/32” x 5/8”x 36” hard balsa strips. The side planking will be done on the diagonal starting with the front edge of the plank on frame #F4 at the shear and at #F5 at the chine. All the following sub planking will be butted against the fist plank working aft the transom, gluing with medium CA glue, the planks at the shear, the center batten, chine, and what ever frame work the plank should cross over.

When gluing butting planking to the frame work, you can also glue the butting planks with thin CA glue in between the shears and the center batten , and also in between the center batten and the chine.

Planking will proceed in the same way all the way to the transom, and also forward to the stem post.

At the stem post the sub planking will be block sanded true with the stem post so the opposite side sub planking can lay over the edge of the first side sub planking.

The planking of the second side is done in the same manner as the first side, starting with the first diagonal planks front edge on frame #F4 at the shear, and on #F5 at the chine. Again the planking will proceed butting and gluing the planks as before, all the way to the transom and then forward to the stem post, with the planking laying over the end grain of the first sides planking.

Once the second side has been planked, trim and block sand the planking flush at the stem post with the side of the first sides planking.

Very nice Frank. I love this part of a build.

I am with Woodybob. I like this part. Very nice job.

With all the side sub planking done we can trim back the planking to the top of the chines from the transom to the stem post. Block sand the ends of the sub planking to conform to the bottom shape for the run of the bottom planking.

AEROMINDED- The reason I would not put the lighting holes in the transom is two fold. One it acts as an air chamber for floatation, and second, I use the flat surface of the inside of the transom to attach things to later in the build. This model, for it’s size, is built with solid but light weight construction, designed that way to give it’s best performance when running with our power package.

Also trim and block sand the side planking to conform to the transom which will be installed latter in the build.

To start the bottom planking we mark the frame work on the keel at frame #F4 and at the chines at #F5. The sub planking will be done in the same manner as the side planking, but all the planking will butt joint on the center line of the keel.

This will mean that each plank must be marked were it crosses the center line of the keel and then angle cut with an Xacto knife for the butt joint.

The sub planking will continue in the same manner as you work your way toward the transom of the model. Take your time with the sub planking, for even though it will be covered on the out side with the mahogany over planking, you will see it on the inside of the hull.

As the planking progresses toward the transom, remember to allow for the cut outs for the shaft alley and the rudder stuffing box. These areas will be marked and cut out, as you glue down the sub planking to the frame.

Originally Posted by frankg

AEROMINDED- The reason I would not put the lighting holes in the transom is two fold...

Fair enough! I was thinking more about that area being vented than it being made lighter. likely not needed.
this one is looking great!