HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jun 13, 2010, 09:21 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
Once the keel doubler is glued to the balsa keel, take a razor saw and cut out the balsa keel where marked for the rudder stuffing box and the propeller stuffing.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jun 13, 2010, 09:57 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
Now glue up the balsa wood keel and lay the second lite ply wood keel doubler on top to form the boxed keel. Mark were the front of the lite ply wood doubler ends on the balsa keel. Remove the doubler, and glue up the balsa keel with 12 minute epoxy glue, and then place the doubler in position on the balsa keel. Once the glue has set the keel assembly will have the locations for the rudder stuffing box and propeller stuffing box fixed in the boxed keel.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 14, 2010, 07:08 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
Remove from the laser cut sheets all of the numbered frames, transom and the shears. Take frame #F1 and using the 1/4” x 1/4” balsa stock, measure and cut pieces to match the laser etched parts out line on the frame. These parts we be use for supports for the floor board as well as the side covering boards.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 14, 2010, 07:35 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
Now take the numbered frames and slide them into their respective slots in the keel and then turn the assembly up side down on the building board. Carefully take the shears and slide them into their slots in the frames. Go slowly working the shear equally into each of the slots a little at a time. Once the shears are fit in the frames and the stem post, glue the shears to the stem post and the transom only.

Now line up the center or the stem post with the center line on the building board and butting the 1” perpendicular line. Tack glue the stem post to the building board with medium CA glue.

At the transom line up the center line of the transom over the center line of the building board. Making sure the feet of the transom are flat against the building board, tack glue the feet down to the building board with medium CA glue.

Now making sure that frame #F4 feet are the same distance off the center line and down against the building board, tack glue the feet to the building board with medium CA glue. Continue gluing the frame feet down to the building board in order of F3, F5, F2, F6, F1, and F7.

Once all the frame feet are glued down to the building board, proceed to glue the keel to the frames using medium CA glue.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 15, 2010, 06:57 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
The side battens are made with the 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” batten material. First you must modify the batten notch in the stem post so that the out side face of the batten will be flush with the centerline of the stem post were it comes to a point. This was done using an Xacto knife and a file. Use the batten to check that you have the depth of the notch correct.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 15, 2010, 07:23 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
Once the side batten is fitting correctly at the stem post , it must be marked in line with the center line of the stem post so that it may be angle cut for a butt joint with the opposite side batten when it is installed.

Once the batten is fit and trimmed, it can be glued in position starting at the stem post, with the batten point on the center line of the stem post, with medium CA glue.

With the batten glued to the stem post , proceed to glue the batten at each of the frames, in its’ notch, all the way to the transom.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 15, 2010, 07:40 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
The chines are made up with two 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” bass wood battens. They will have to be let into the stem post notch the same way as the side battens, but deeper to accommodate the two battens which make up the chine.

We used a piece of the 1/4” X 1/4” balsa stock as a gage to adjust for the depth of the chine notch in the stem post.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 15, 2010, 08:42 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
The chines are made up from two 1/8” X 1/4” X 36” bass wood for each chine. The must be fit into the stem post in the same manner as the side battens, but deeper in the stem post notch to allow for the two battens, which will be glued together on each side. First modify the stem post notch using a piece of the 1/4” x 1/4” balsa stock as a gage to get the correct angle and depth of the notch. .


frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 15, 2010, 08:48 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts

Take one of the 1/8” x 1/4” bass wood battens and fit it to the stem post marking the centerline of the stem post on the batten. This will be the mark you will angle cut to for the butt joint of the batten to the second, opposite side batten. Once fit glue, with medium CA glue, the batten to the stem post and in each of its’ notches in the frames all the way to the transom. Due the same on the opposite side chine batten.

The second chine battens will be fit at the stem post for the angled butt joint , on the center line of the stem post. And then glued with medium CA glue to the first batten. Due the same on the opposite side for it’s second chine batten. This will give you a 1/4’ x 1/4” laminated bass wood chine on both side of the hull.


frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 16, 2010, 06:57 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
Using two more of the 1/8” x 1/4” x 36” bass wood batten material, fit and glue them with medium CA glue, in their frame notches from frame F1 to the transom.

With all the battens and chines now glued in place, trim the ends flush with the transom with a razor saw.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 16, 2010, 07:28 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
When check the frame work for trueness, remember to check with the straight edge going from fore and aft over the frames. This is critical in how the boat will plane off when finally planked. Check at several places with the straight edge, the keel, half way between the keel and the batten, half way between the batten and the chine, and finally the chine.

The last third of the hull will be the planning surface the hull will be riding on at speed.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 16, 2010, 07:44 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
The stem post must be sanded true with the chines, shears, and the side battens. You can use one of the strips of 3/32” x 5/8”x 36” sub planking to check for the lay of the planking over the stem post. Take your time sanding and keep checking for trueness. You do not want to sand a hollow at the stem post.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2010, 11:21 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
With all the battens, chines, and keel overhangs of the transom trimmed and sanded flush flush with the face of the transom, you are ready to start the radius transom framing at the locations laser etched on the transom.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 17, 2010, 11:50 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2004
3,726 Posts
Using the laser cut transom radius timbers, five pieces in all, glue in their positions with medium CA glue, were laser marked on the transom with the center line mark of each timber on the center line of the transom. Once all the radius timbers are glued in the vertical timbers can be fit and glued in place were laser marked on the transom.

With all the transom timbers glued in place, block sand the radius of the transom, as well as sanding the bottom timbers true with the bottom and sides of the transom.
frankg is offline Find More Posts by frankg
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question 54" Century Sea Maid 68Brick Scale Boats 7 Jan 06, 2007 10:44 PM
Pica 1/6th scale Mustang dumbthumbs Aircraft - Fuel - Airplanes (FS/W) 0 Dec 20, 2004 10:00 AM
WTB 1/6th scale P38 retracts airmcn_3 Aircraft - Fuel - Airplanes (FS/W) 0 Oct 26, 2004 09:56 AM
1/6th Scale Nitro Lotus with .21 Thunder Tiger biff_40 Cars - Cars and Parts (FS/W) 2 Jul 17, 2003 12:52 PM