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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:23 AM
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Once both the seat bottom and the seat back cushions have their sanded shapes, put the seat bottom cushion aside, to be sealed with resin later. The seat back cushion must have the laser etched score lines for the welting scored to go from the front of the cushion down around the bottom and up the back of the cushion for about one inch. Scoring can be done with a hack saw blade.

It must also have the scores go up and over the top and down the back for about one inch. Scoring can be done with a hack saw blade. Then take a piece of folded 180 grit sand paper and with folded corner of the sand paper sand the scores for a slight radius to either side of the score line. Once finished, set aside for resin sealing later.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:35 AM
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The front seat frame assembly is made up of parts found on laser sheet #S3. The parts are FSB, FSS, FFF, and FF (3pcs). Note that the front seat back FSB has laser etched lines for the seat welting on it which must be facing to the back of the assembly when assembled. The frame assembly can be put together, using a square to keep the frame from racking, on a waxed papered flat surface, using the assembly drawing DWG #2.

There is one other part of the seat frame assembly which is made of a piece of 3/8 x 1 x10 cut balsa. This will be for the upholstered roll for the seat back. See drawing DWG #15. Do not glue this part on to the back of the seat back at this time.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:45 AM
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The front seat cushions are the next assembly to be done. On laser sheet S9 remove parts FSBC1, FSBC2, FSCB1, and FSCB2. Glue FSBC2 to the top of FSBC1 with medium CA glue. Do the same with FSCB2 being glued to the top of FSCB1. As was done before with the rear seat cushions, shape sand with 120 grit sand paper for the over all shape and then 180grit for finish. Set the front seat bottom cushion aside for sealing with resin later.

As was done to the rear seat cushion back, the front seat cushion back has laser etch lines for the location of the score lines for the upholstery welting. As before, score with a hack saw blade and then sand the score line with a piece of folded 180 grit sand paper for the slight radius to both sides of the scores. With all the sanding done set aside for the sealing with the resin. See photos for finished sanded shape and upholstery welting score lines.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:49 AM
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Once the front seat assembly is together sand all the outside edges of the seat back and the seat front with 180 grit sand paper for a slight radius. Noting the laser etched lines for the upholstery welting, sand a small radius notch at the top and the bottom of the lines on the seat back. This will be so that the welting wire can be pulled tight against the back of the seat for gluing.


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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:54 AM
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Now take the balsa seat back roll and place it against the seat back flush with the top of the seat back. Mark where the welting is on the seat back, at the top and the bottom of the roll. Now score the balsa roll across the welting marks on the radius side of the roll and notch in the flat side at the top and the bottom were the welting is so you can end the welting wire below the flat surface. As was done on the seats with welting, take a piece of folded 180 grit sand paper and sand a slight radius to both side of the score marks. Set the balsa roll aside for sealing with resin later.


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Old Jul 15, 2010, 09:03 AM
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The front seat cushions are the next assembly to be done. On laser sheet S9 remove parts FSBC1, FSBC2, FSCB1, and FSCB2. Glue FSBC2 to the top of FSBC1 with medium CA glue. Do the same with FSCB2 being glued to the top of FSCB1. As was done before with the rear seat cushions, shape sand with 120 grit sand paper for the over all shape and then 180grit for finish. Set the front seat bottom cushion aside for sealing with resin later.

As was done to the rear seat cushion back, the front seat cushion back has laser etch lines for the location of the score lines for the upholstery welting. As before, score with a hack saw blade and then sand the score line with a piece of folded 180 grit sand paper for the slight radius to both sides of the scores. With all the sanding done, set aside for the sealing with the resin.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:09 PM
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With the front and rear seat frames built and all the cushions sanded to shape, they all ready to be given a coat of penetrating epoxy finishing resin.

We have found that if you use straight pins like legs on a table, with four pins stuck into the back of the cushions, you can coat all of the surfaces of the cushions at one time. Coat the back of the cushion first then stand it on the straight pins and finish coating the sides and the top of the cushion. The seat frames can have the straight pins stuck in form the bottom on the four corners.

Once the resin has set up, a light sanding with 240 grit sand paper is all that is needed for prep work before painting with the primer paint coat. All the parts will receive three good coats of the spray primer, making sure not to get runs in the primer coat. The primered parts must be left to thoroughly dry before continuing with the welting on the seat parts.


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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:15 PM
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The next parts to be made are the seat locator pins, which are made from the 3/16 diameter x 8 long dowel. Cut the dowel in half to make two 4 long pieces. Then using a electric drill chuck the dowel and while running the drill sand both ends of the dowels to a blunt point. Once all four ends of the dowels have been sanded, cut the dowels in half again, netting you four seat locator pins. The pins will be glued into position in the corners of the front and rear seat frames with medium CA glue, as shown on the assembly drawing of the seat frames, DWG #1 and DWG #2. The pins will stick down 1/4 from the bottom of the frames.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:23 PM
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The upholstery welting is done with the 22ga red wire packet. The front seat frame back will have the two weltings start by being glued at the bottom inside of the frame by the score notch with the medium CA glue. Go under the frame in the score notch, up the outside of the seat back to the top score notch, over the top and down the inside for one inch. Glue the wire to the inside of the frame and then cut the wire free. After both welting are in place run a bead of medium CA glue along the welting wire on the outside of the seat back.

The next three pieces to have welting applied to are, the front and rear seat backs cushions and the front seat back roll. The cushions are done in the same manner as the front seat frame back was done. Start with the wire glued to the back of the cushion lined up with the score, then run the wire in the score up the front of the cushion, over the top and down one inch on the back were it is glued off. The front seat roll is done in the same manner but with the ends of the wire buried deeper. This is done so that when placed in position on the front seat back when finished, the empty score lines will fit over the welting lines already on the front seat back.

Once all the welting is in place run a bead of the medium CA glue along the wire to seal in position.

Spray prime all the parts again that have had the welting wire applied to.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:25 PM
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The cockpit side panels can be light sanded on their faces and sprayed with three good coats of primer. Do not spray the back sides of the panels. Set aside for final paint finishing.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:44 PM
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The dash board assembly is the next item to build. Use the CAD drawing DWG#5 for reference on the build.

From laser sheet S1, remove the dash board, and from laser sheet S6, remove the left and right dashboard ends (DBE). The two 3/16 balsa dash board ends are glued in their positions on the dash board. Then using the hack saw blade score the ends on the laser etched marks for the weltings. Then with a piece of 180 grit sand paper folded on half sand radiuses from the welting scores to simulate rolled upholstery. Sand a notch at the top and bottom of the dash board on the score line for the welting wire to pass around to the back of the dash board where it will be glued. Once all the sanding is done, the dash board must be sealed with a penetrating epoxy finishing resin. The picture shown is of the finished dash board later in the build but gives you a look at the shape of the sanded rolled upholstery.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 08:53 PM
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The floor boards are the next item to be built using the parts from laser sheets S7 and S10. Remove parts KB (3pcs) and FT (2pcs) from laser sheet S7 and the main floor board from S10. All the parts can have their edges sanded with 180 grit sand paper before any assembly. Use CAD drawing DWG #14 for build reference.

Take the kick board and install the angle brackets into their slots in the back of the kick board. When looking at the face of the kick board the steering column hole and foot throttle slot should be on the right side. Glue the angle bracket in with the medium CA glue.

The foot throttle is made up of two pieces, the foot pad and the angle bracket. Glue the angle bracket into the foot pad with the medium CA glue. DO NOT glue the foot throttle into the kick board at this time.

The kick board, foot throttle, and the main floor board, must all be sealed on all sides with penetrating epoxy resin. The floor board, kick board face, and the foot throttle pad, will have one or two more coats of epoxy finishing resin applied to them to get a smooth finish after being block sanded, with 120 grit sand paper.

Once all the parts have been sanded smooth, they can be given two or three good coats of spray primer.

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Old Jul 15, 2010, 09:00 PM
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The floor board can now be fit into the hull by inserting thru the cockpit opening, thru frame #F5 and sliding back until the front of the floor board passes the front of the cockpit opening. Drop the front of the floor board and slide it all the way forward to the face of frame #F1and set it on the 1/4x 1/4 balsa bridge work. With the floor board held forward against the face of frame F#1, mark with a pencil where the front of frame #F5 is on the back of the floor board on either side of the motor cut out. Remove the floor board from the boat and transfer the pencil marks on either side of the motor cut out to the bottom side of the floor board. With a straight edge draw a line all the way across the back of the floor board thru the two pencil marks. This will be the back edge of the floor board stop that will be glued onto the bottom of the floor, on both sides of the motor cut out.

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Old Jul 16, 2010, 08:56 PM
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With the floor board removed for the hull sand the primed to side with 400 grit sand paper. Also sand the face of the kick board assembly and the face of the foot throttle pad.

Now with the floor board laying flat on the table take the rear seat frame and place it in the rear set of locator holes in the floor board. If necessary to open the holes to the sides to fit the locator pins in, you can do so with a Xacto knife. Remove the same amount from each of the holes when fitting to keep the seat centered on the floor board.

The same process must be done for the front seat with the front set of locator pin holes. With both seats in position on the floor board, mark with a pencil line, the front of the rear seat and the front and back of the front seat. Remove the seats from the floor board and set aside.

Now take the front kick board assembly and spot it in its slots in the floor board. With the kick board in position, draw a pencil line on the floor board marking the front edge of the kick board. Remove the kick board from the floor board.


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Last edited by frankg; Jul 16, 2010 at 09:01 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2010, 09:03 PM
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With the floor board dusted off very well you will now take the DST-3, double sided attachment tape and place the tape between the pencil lines for the front of the rear seat to the back of the front seat and from the front of the front seat to the front edge of the kick board.

Now measure the distance between the front of the back seat to the back of the front seat, and cut a strip of the rubber floor mat material that wide to go across the floor board. Now carefully peal away the protective covering on the attachment tape and spot the rubber floor board material on the tapes across the floor board. Once in position, press down, rubbing to from the center to the ends, making sure there are no air bubbles under the mat. Trim the ends of the rubber mat hanging over the sides of the floor board with a Xacto knife.


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