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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:44 PM
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Once the resin has set up for a couple of hours, remove the masking tapes and news paper and set the resin coated side down in the cardboard stand so you can tape out the opposite side. Tape out with the painter masking tape and news paper just as you did the first side, remembering to leave the 1/4” overlaps on the bottom, deck, stem post, and transom. Once taped out mix another batch of the finishing resin and coat in the side of the hull as was done before.

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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:50 PM
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With the second side of the hull resin set up, remove the tapes and the news paper from the hull and setup the hull bottom side up. Tape out the bottom of the hull with the painters masking tape and newspaper as before. Remember to leave over laps at the sides and transom. Mix again the epoxy resin and coat in the bottom of the hull, making sure that you DO NOT get any resin in the propeller stuffing box of the rudder stuffing box. The base of the strut can be coated right in with the bottom of the hull.

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Old Jul 13, 2010, 01:52 PM
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Frank, I don’t understand why you masked off the mahogany then epoxyed the basswood, then stained the mahogany. When I built the Dumas Continental I, masked off the basswood, then stained the mahogany, then epoxyed (glassed) the mahogany, and the basswood at the same time. Is it a preference or a specific reason?

Your build is great. Do you have a date for the release of the Sea Maid?

Ed
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 07:55 PM
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EDLOKKEN- The main reason that I finished the basswood planking and the caulking strips with a coat of resin first is, I had to bleach out and then stain the mahogany and did not want to take a chance of staining the basswood or discoloring the caulking strips.

If you were going to go with the color of the mahogany without staining, then you could resin coat the entire deck in one shot with out even masking out the planking and caulking strips.

A little time and masking tape up front, saves blowing my brains out latter, because of a screw up.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 07:58 PM
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What bleach did you use? how was it applied?
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 08:16 PM
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AEROMINDED- the bleach I use is a two part (A & B) self neutralizing bleach they use for hard wood floors. I bought it at the hard wood floor store at a cost of about $58.00 for a gallon of A and a gallon of B. Believe me, I have enough bleach to last me for years, but with all the models that I build were I use it, it is worth the cost to me. NO SMELL either!.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 08:40 PM
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excellent, that is what I was thinking you were using!
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:21 PM
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The last section to be coated in is the transom, which can be position in the garbage can as was done when gluing the mahogany transom on. Mask out the transom overlapping over lapping the deck, sides, and the bottom of the hull with the hull standing on it’s nose in the can. Coat in the transom with the resin and let it set up for an hour before removing the tapes and the news paper.

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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:24 PM
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Once the transom is resin has cured, remove the masking tapes and news paper, and with 180 grit paper, block sand all of the lap joints of the resin build up. Be careful not to sand thru the resin. With the 180 grit paper folded up in you hand, proceed to give the entire hull a light sanding so that the second coat of resin can get a bite on the first coat of resin.

Once sanded dust off the entire hull and starting with the deck, proceed to repeat the entire process of taping out and resin coating of the hull, section by section for a second and third complete coating of resin on the hull. This is a time consuming process, but it has proven to be the best way to get a good build up resin coating on the entire hull with out the heart ache of sanding out runs.

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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:27 PM
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Once the three complete coats of resin have been applied to the hull, block sanding can get started at the deck using 180 grit sand paper. As you sand the deck, be aware of how much you are sanding and take care not to sand thru the epoxy to the wood. You want to sand the deck so that is smooth and has a milky sanded look all over with no holidays (low spots) showing.

Proceed to the sides of the hull first block sanding all of the over laps and then the concave surfaces on the side of the hull going to the stem post. You may want to resort to hand sanding with the sand paper folded in your hand to get a better feel for the side of the hull.

The bottom of the hull can be block sanded for about two thirds of the bottom. The only parts were hand sanding may be best is in the entry at the stem post back for about 12 to 15 inches, were the bottom is concave.

The transom can be block sanded all the way for a smooth radiuses surface.

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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:29 PM
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Before continuing with the build the water line must be drawn on to the hull. To do this you must place pencil marks on either side of the bow measuring down from the deck 4 3/8”. Now at the transom corners place pencil marks measuring up from the bottom of the hull 3/4". Transfer the transom marks to the sides of the hull at the transom also.

Now take the hull and place it on the boat stand and with masking tape, tape it to the hull so it will not move on the stand. Now on a clean flat table measure with a ruler to the bow pencil marks on the hull, and then measure each of the corner pencil marks at the transom. These three marks must measure the same from the table top to have the boat’s water line level with the table top. Shim under the base of the stand if necessary in order to get all the measurements equal.

Once all three measurements are equal, take a height gage with a pencil taped to it and set it to one of the pencil marks on the hull. Run the gage with the pencil around the hull marking the hull with a pencil line which is the water line.

(Note: to make a make shift height gage take a block of wood or a box and tape a pencil sticking out the side 3 or 4 inches with its point on one of the pencil marks on the hull, then slowly run the block or box around the hull marking the hull as you go. Make sure that nothing shifts as you go and that the pencil line runs thru all the pencil marks on the hull)

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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:36 PM
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With the water line drawn on the hull and the deck protected with two coats of resin from any staining or scaring, we can continue with the build moving on to the quarter and transom guards, which are made from basswood.

The transom guard is laser cut sheet S12, while the two quarter guards are made from 1/8” x 1/4” basswood batten material, two pieces cut 12” long. The quarter guards must be shaped using a sanding block and 180 grit sand paper. See the drawing DWG #10 for a profile of the shape for both of the pieces.

The transom guard also must have a profile sanded on it, but it will be done after it is glued onto the transom to prevent breaking the laser cut piece.

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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:39 PM
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With the water line drawn on the hull we can continue with the build moving on to the quarter and transom guards, which are made from basswood.

The transom guard is laser cut sheet S12, while the two quarter guards are made from 1/8” x 1/4” basswood batten material, two pieces cut 12” long. The quarter guards must be shaped using a sanding block and 180 grit sand paper. See the drawing DWG #10 for a profile of the shape for both of the pieces.

The transom guard also must have a profile sanded on it, but it will be done after it is glued onto the transom to prevent breaking the laser cut piece.

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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:43 PM
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Now on the boat hull measure up from the just marked water line 5/8” and place marks every two inches or so across the transom and up the sides of the hull for 12”. Now using a flexible straight edge draw a pencil line across the transom and up the side of the hull at the 5/8” marks. This will be where the bottom edge of the transom guard and the two quarter guards will be glued to.

Starting with the transom guard, seal the inside or the gluing surface with the thin CA glue. This will prevent the medium CA from being absorbed into the wood to fast when gluing. Now before gluing spot the transom guard on the transom and note that the over hang of the ends of the guard are equal in length. With a pencil place a mark on top of the guard in the center and a matching mark on the transom. This is where you will spot the guard when gluing the guard to the transom with the medium CA glue.




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Old Jul 13, 2010, 09:47 PM
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With the transom guard glued in position take one of the quarter guards and place in position butting the transom guard and the bottom edge of the guard on the side pencil line. Check the butt joint with the transom guard and block sand for a good fit if necessary. Once fit remove the guard and seal the gluing surface with the thin CA glue as before with the transom guard.

Then carefully, using the medium CA glue, glue in position butting the transom guard and on the pencil mark on the side of the hull.

The same thing will be done on the opposite side of the hull with the other quarter guard.

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