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Old Jul 11, 2010, 11:59 AM
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The last item to have the caulking strips applied to is the center mahogany inlay on the front deck. The strip will have an angled butt joint cut were the two strips meet at the point of the inlay. Once fit, glue in with the medium CA glue. (pic 04643)
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Old Jul 11, 2010, 12:04 PM
Grumpa Tom
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Alright Rich, I too have been watching intently and I have a comment. A few posts back you showed how to route the antenna wire throughout the hull.

Antenna wire?? Come on now, it's 2010 and antenna wires are so yesterday!

Anyone who would build a gorgeous boat from this expensive kit and then run an old fashioned, interference prone, crash your boat into the sea wall, crystal radio with a long azz antenna wire would have to be nutz!

I would advise all potential customers (including yourself Rich) to go with the 21st Century 2.4Ghz radio systems. Bonus, no ungainly antenna wire.
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Old Jul 11, 2010, 12:28 PM
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KMOT- How is it going buddy!!! I under stand what you are saying about radios but I build the kits using the lowest cost radios, just to prove that anyone who already has a radio system, that is still good and in working order, need not have to run out and buy a new radio. I build the antenna wire into every boat I build, (and we even include the wire in the kit), so you have the choice of using it or not.

A word of caution, I did have a issue with a 2.4 ghz. Radio system, in that if I ran the boat in back of a rooster tail of another boat between me and my boat , I would get a glitch. Also at one of the venues were we run our boats there is a water fountain out in the lake that I would get a glitch on the boat when I ran behind the fountain. This problem was solved with the addition of adding a length of antenna wire, which I plug into the short 8” length of antenna coming out of the receiver. This was done on the Legend Model Boats , “Jersey Girl” 1950 Jersey Speed Skiff. It worked so well that I did not even think twice about doing the same thing in the California Cracker Box, which is also running a 2.4 ghz system.

By the way my prototype model of the Sea Maid 18 is running a Hitec 2N, 2 channel AM radio in it on 75 mhz. I have never had any issues with the running of the model and I run the model quite a lot. This model, nor any of the models I build are not shelf queens. We run them at all the club functions and at the antique and classic boat shows we go to. It is kind’a playing while you are at work. I know it is a ruff gig, but some body has got to do it.
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Old Jul 11, 2010, 04:01 PM
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Planking of the open fields of the deck is begun at the front section of the deck. The planking is started by drawing a pencil line 1/32 off the center line of the deck between the covering board and the center mahogany inlay. This will be were the edge of the first basswood plank will go. Now take one of the basswood planks and cut, with a sharp Xacto knife, the end of the plank to make a butt fit against the covering board caulking strip. Once fit mark the back of the plank were it crosses the caulking strip on the mahogany inlay. (Note: It is always a good idea to cut a little full of the mark then sand to the mark to get a good fit)

Once fit remove the plank and run a bead of medium CA glue 1/8 away from the pencil line and then set the plank in place. Now take a caulking strip and measure and cut a piece to go from the bvack of the covering board caulking strip to the point of the caulking strips on the inlay. Once fit glue the caulking strip to the edge of the basswood plank with the thin CA glue.

When doing the deck planking you will be using both the thin and medium CA glues. The thin CA glue will be used to wick the glue under the caulking strips, while the medium CA glue will be used to glue the basswood planks in place.
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Old Jul 11, 2010, 04:14 PM
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The second plank will be fit on the opposite side of the center line against the caulking strip going from the covering boards to the inlay. Once fit, run a bead of medium CA glue 1/8 away from the caulking strip and set the plank back in position. Now you must fit another caulking strip against the edge of the of the just installed plank, and again glue in by wicking in the thin CA glue at the bottom of the strip.

This routine will continue, alternating from left side to right side with the planking and caulking line until the entire field is filled.
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Old Jul 11, 2010, 06:45 PM
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The rear deck planking will be started a little differently since there will be no center line to work from. In order to keep the planks running parallel to the center line of the hull we use the engine hatch hinge openings on either side of the engine hatch as our parallel lines. Measure in 1/16 from the edge of the hatch frame at the front and back of the hinge opening on both sides of the hatch. Then using a straight edge draw a line thru the two pencil marks to the front and back of the sub decking as a center reference line on both sides of the engine hatch. This pencil line will be the inside edge of the first plank to be fit running from were the plank crosses the covering board to back of the cockpit ( flush with the face of frame #F5A).

Once fit, place pencil marks at the front and back of the hatch opening on the plank. Now measure in 1/16 from the edge of the plank between the marks and with a sharp Xacto knife remove the 1/16 material from the plank. Run a bead of medium CA glue 1/8 from the center reference line penciled on the sub deck and glue the basswood plank in position. As with the front deck, the caulking strips are then fit and glued against the plank sides with thin CA glue wicked in at the bottom of the strips. (Note: the caulking strip will not be run thru the hinge cut out openings). All the planking done from the first plank to the out side of the hull will run full length from the angled cut at the covering boards to the back of the cockpit opening. (pic04644)
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Old Jul 11, 2010, 07:04 PM
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To continue the planking into the mahogany inlay, all the planking will be done in three pieces, leaving the open space between the engine hatch and the frame opening at the front and back of the engine hatch.

Fit and cut the first plank to run from the back covering board to the engine hatch opening. Glue in position with a bead of the medium CA glue. Now go forward and cut a plank to go from the front of the hatch opening to the back of the cockpit and glue it in position. Now before cutting the caulking strips take a bass wood plank and lay it against the glued planks at back of the hatch and the plank at the front of the hatch. With a sharp pencil mark the inside edge of the plank on the sub decking of the hatch. Cut a piece of planking the length of the hatch. Place it on the pencil line on the hatch and mark the plank on both ends were the side of the hatch is. Using a straight edge draw a line between the marks and cut with a Xacto knife. This will leave the hatch hinge opening when the plank is glued to the hatch. This is done on both sides of the engine hatch.

The rest of the planking will proceed in the normal fashion with the full width planks be fitted along with the caulking strips.

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Old Jul 11, 2010, 07:15 PM
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With all the planking and caulking strips glued down to the deck , start the block sanding of the deck with 8o grit sand paper for a start, until the caulking strips are sanded down close to the surface of the wood. Once sanded close to the surface of the wood change out the grit of the sand paper to 120 grit, 180 grit, and finally 240 grit sand paper sanded with the grain of the wood. Take you time and do not rush to get finished , scoring or scaring of the wood will show up in the clear unstained finish.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 06:39 PM
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I really like this Rich. You have done it again. I am going to get one of these.

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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:23 PM
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With the deck all block sanded smooth dust off the entire hull, inside and out, in preparation of the mask out of the deck for the first of the epoxy resin coatings.

All of the masking out done on the model for painting, epoxying, or varnishing, is done with low tack painters (blue) masking tape. This will provide for easy removal with out lifting the grain on the wood (when used on bare wood) or painted surfaces it is taken off.

Once free of the sanding dust, mask out the Mahogany covering boards and inlays. When masking off. Make sure that the masking tape is only covering the mahogany covering boards and the inlays and not the caulking strips that surround the covering boards and the inlays. The reason for this is that we want to seal the not only the basswood planking, but the caulking strips also, with the epoxy finishing resin. (Note: After carefully masking out the deck, we covered any other open deck area with masking tape
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:25 PM
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With the deck masked out, mix a batch of the epoxy finishing resin thinned out with two caps of Xylene thinner. This will break the surface tension of the brushed on epoxy resin letting it release the trapped air bubbles for a good finish. Apply the resin to the open deck sections making sure to cover all the basswood planks and the caulking strips.

Let the epoxy set for 12 hours before lightly sanding with 220 grit sand paper. Dust off the deck and before applying a second coat of epoxy, re-mask the deck, over the masking tape already on the deck with a new piece of masking tape. This is a trick that is used to prevent the build up of the epoxy resin on the first piece of masking tape making it harder to remove from the hull when the epoxy hardens. Again mix a batch of finishing resin and thin as before with one cap of Xylene, and recoat the sanded deck of the hull. Let the epoxy set up for a few hours and then remove all the masking tape from the deck.

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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:26 PM
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Is this prep for staining the mahogany? (seal basswood so it doesn't take stain...)
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:31 PM
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Before continuing on with the build you must decide on what color stain if any you are going to use on the mahogany hull and deck inlays. The mahogany wood veneer will come up with beautiful natural wood colors and tones with out stain. On the proto type model we wanted to duplicate the color of the original boat and to that end we bleached out the mahogany on the boat and then stained the hull with acrylic water based paints for the color we wanted. We have listed in the tools and materials list for the kit all the colors and manufacturer part #s for the various finishing products used in the build

If you decide to stain the hull, make a sample board from the scraps of mahogany planking, glued to scraps of the lite plywood, and then sanded, to see what the final color will look like before staining the hull. Remember that to see the final color of the stained wood you must coat the stained wood with the epoxy finishing resin to see the final color results.





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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:37 PM
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Once the entire hull and inlays are stained, you can start mixing batches of the epoxy finishing resin with a cap full of Xylene, to coat the horizontal surfaces, one side at a time.

Starting with the deck, tape out the sides and transom of the hull about 1/4 down from the deck with the painters masking tape and news paper. Resin coat all the mahogany inlays and the covering boards, over lapping the sides. Leave the resin set up before removing the masking tape and news paper.



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Old Jul 12, 2010, 07:42 PM
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Using the previously made cardboard box stand you can stand the hull on its side so you can tape out the side of the hull for resin coating. Using the painters masking tape and newspaper again tape out the bottom of the hull 1/4 in from the chine to the transom to the stem post. The same is done with the deck and transom as well as 1/4 back from the stem post on the opposite side of the hull.

This procedure will be repeated on each side of the hull to be coated so that the side being coated is always horizontal with the table letting the resin flow flat and smooth, eliminating the possibility of runs which would have to be sanded out and over lapping at all the sharp corners for a good build up of resin. Mix another batch of finishing resin and coat in the side of the hull.

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