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Old Jul 09, 2010, 10:58 PM
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With the engine hatch block sanded and sealed you can now install the hatch sub decking parts (N)(2pcs) from laser sheet SD1, using the medium CA glue. Once glued onto the frame work block sand the out sides of the frame work and sub deck planking smooth. Set the hatch aside until the rest of the finished deck framing has been block sanded.
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 11:02 PM
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Proceed now with the block sanding of the deck framing of the hull with 220 grit sand paper. After sanding, seal all of the open end grain of the lite plywood frame work which will be glued to the sub deck planking.

Now remove part F5B form laser sheet S5 and part F7AA for laser sheet S6. they are the engine hatch frame stops and are glued in flush with the bottom of and against frame #F5 for part F5B, and flush with the bottom and against frame #F7A for part F7AA. Glue in with medium CA glue.

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Old Jul 09, 2010, 11:09 PM
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Take the completed engine hatch and set in the hatch opening in the hull on top of the hatch stops. Now take pieces of 1/8” x 1/4” balsa and make shims to space the hatch so it has equal spaceing in the openings, front and back and side to side. Once shimmed to the correct spacing tack glue the spacers to the hatch and hatch frame with a dorp of the CA glue. Remember to only tack glue the hatch in it will be easier to cut out later in the build.

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Last edited by frankg; Jul 09, 2010 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Now starts the decking of the hull with the numbered sub deck parts which were previously sealed with the thinned epoxy resin. Take all the parts and lightly block sand the coated side of the parts for the glue to bite in to.

On the hull deck framing, draw a center line down the middle, from the stem post to the transom.
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Old Jul 09, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Starting with sub deck part (A), line up the part’s laser etched dotted line flush with the face of frame #F2B, and the edge lined up with the center line of the hull. This will give a 1/4" over hang of the sub decking past the face of frame #F2B. Mark were the bow light wire is coming thru the stem post on the sub decking and mark for a half-hole about 1/4" in diameter. Also pencil mark were the edge of the other side of the sub decking ends on the batten.

Carefully cut out the half-hole were marked on the sub decking, and then mix a small batch of 12 minute epoxy glue and coat the deck frame work only were the part (A) sub deck was marked out on the frame work. Take care not to put to much glue around the bow light hole so that the wire is still free to move. The sub deck part (A) can be place in position and pinned down with straight pins and masking tape. Remove any excess glue that come out the edges of the sub decking.

Use the cad drawing DWG #9 for reference to the sub decking locations.

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Old Jul 10, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Once the epoxy glue has cured part (A) sub decking, remove the straight pins and masking tape and line up part (B) sub planking as was done with part (A), but butting part (A) on the center line of the hull. Mark were the half-hole is located for the bow light wire on part (B) making sure that the laser etch dotted line is lined up with the face of frame #F2B. As before mark were the outside edge of sub deck (B) is on the deck batten.

Cut out the half-hole with a Xacto knife and then mix a small batch of 12 minute epoxy glue and as before coat in were sub deck (B) is to be positioned. Remember to go light with the glue around the bow light wire hole so the wire does not get glued in. Aline the sub deck (B) and pin in position with straight pins and masking tape. Use the cad drawing DWG #9 for reference as to the loacation of the sub decking parts.

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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:01 PM
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The next to sub deck parts to be glued in with the 12 minute epoxy glue are parts (C) and (D). Part (C) will butted against part (B) and the radius will be flush with the back of part (B).

Part (D) will be butted against part (A) and its radius will be flush with the back of part (A).

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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:04 PM
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The next part to be installed in the sub decking will be part (E). It will be position so the front edge will be flush with the front edge of frame #F7A, and its edge on the center line of the hull drawn on the batten. Pencil mark where the out side edge of part (E) is on the out side batten.

Mix a small batch of 12 minute epoxy and coat in the frame work were the sub decking will go. Position the sub decking and pin in place with straight pins and masking tape. Clean up any excess glue that comes out the edges of the decking.

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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:06 PM
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Sub decking part (F) is next to install on to the frame work, butting against part (E) and flush with the front face of frame #F7A. Gluing in of the sub decking part (F) is done as before, using the 12 minute epoxy glue.

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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:10 PM
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Sub deck parts (G) and (H) will be glued in their positions, part (G) butting against part (E), and part (H) butting against part (F), with the 12 minute epoxy glue. Make sure that front edge of the parts is flush with the front edge of frame #F7A.

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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:18 PM
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The three remaining sub deck parts are laser cut over size in length so you can block sand for a good fit of the parts which are fit between parts that are already glued in place on the deck.

Part (K) must fit between parts (C) and (I) and flush with the inside of the shear. Part (L) must fit between parts (D) and (J) and flush with the inside of the shear.
Once the parts are fit, glue in place with the 12 minute epoxy.

The last part to be fit is part (M) which is to be fitted between parts (I) and (J) and flush with the back side of frame #F5. Once the part is fit, glue in place with the 12 minute epoxy.
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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:26 PM
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With all the sub decking now glued in place, trim and block sand the edges of the deck true with the sides of the hull sub planking and the transom. With a razor saw cut the balsa spacer hatch shims flush with the sub decking. Now block sand the entire sub deck with 220 grit sand paper. Make sure you do not sand off the laser etched markings for the placement of the mahogany inlays on the deck.

Measuring 4 1/4” from the front of the laser marking for the front deck mahogany inlay, place a pencil mark on the center line of the hull. This mark will be were the back of the mahogany covering boards will meet on the center line. Refer to cad drawing DWG #9.
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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:31 PM
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Before continuing with the deck planking, we must go back and finish the mahogany side planking on the hull. The side planking will plank over the edge of the sub decking and then be trimmed and block sanded flush with the sub decking. At the transom all of the planking will be trimmed and block sanded flush with the transom sub planking.

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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:37 PM
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The mahogany veneer transom is the next item to be installed on the hull. With the transom sub planking block sanded smooth with the side, bottom, and sub deck planking, you must set up the hull in position for gluing the mahogany transom in place.

We have found that standing the hull on its nose in a garbage can and taped to the side of the can to hold the hull in position works quite well.

At this time we also pre-bent the mahogany transom veneer for the transom radius. This was soaking the mahogany veneer in hot water for about 10 minutes or so. Then take some wood blocking about 3/4” thick and place it under each end of the transom. Then place weights on the center of the mahogany transom so it touches the table. Let the wood dry over night. The mahogany transom will now have the transom radius formed in. (pic 04635)

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Last edited by frankg; Jul 24, 2010 at 09:47 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2010, 01:42 PM
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Proceed to glue the transom sub planking with the 12 minute epoxy glue and then line up the mahogany veneer transom and tape down in place with masking tape. Use plenty of tape and then using weights of some kind (cans of food works quite well), placed on the taped down transom will make sure there are no air gaps under the mahogany transom.

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