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Old Jul 05, 2009, 06:23 AM
killickb
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The Villages. Florida
Joined Jan 2005
1,379 Posts
Thanks for advice on the 900 servos, will check further. Gear locks up and down with no servo hum but will check current draw anyway.

Have bigger problem with Hunter -- the wing mount blind nuts are pulling through that "ply" wood that they use! I used the supplied philips head screws and actually used a very small screwdriver that often slipped so couldn't have used much torque. At the time I thought "better replace these screws with socket head", now it looks like I will have to remove those wood pieces and replace with real ply --- if possible. Not doing so I could loose the wing in flight. Why is this model driving me crazy !!??
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Old Jul 07, 2009, 11:43 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,640 Posts
My wood mounts were perfect, no issues after 7 flights so far with the wing bolted on. Sounds like you may have gotten a Friday arvo one You could try thin CA to harden up the wood, they are not hard to remove, CA makes ply go rock hard, then epoxy them back down.
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Old Jul 08, 2009, 05:00 AM
It's like an addiction!
Downwind3Zero's Avatar
NY, Rochester
Joined Oct 2003
1,506 Posts
I decided not to go with the long links. Instead I placed 2 servos left and right of the fin. They don't protrude into the exhaust so that won't be a problem. They are 9g Power HD servos 10g each - no serious weight displacement.
Chris
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Old Jul 09, 2009, 01:55 AM
Registered User
Orange,CA
Joined Aug 2003
284 Posts
Planning on repainting mine. How do I get rid of the 'reptile skin' look? Any suggestions?

FB
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Old Jul 09, 2009, 04:19 AM
UK Commercial RPAS Pilot
Scott Cuppello's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Carlisle
Joined Mar 2007
2,611 Posts
The elevator snakes issue, really isn't an issue, cuts need to be made either side of the snake outlet in the fus [one fore, inside, one aft on the exterior] to flatten the angle of attack...after that, they work fine, just a little paint needed to tidy it up.
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Old Jul 09, 2009, 05:20 AM
OpenPilot
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
1,792 Posts
How good of a finish do you want and how much time have you got? You could WBPU glass it or just go with a couple of coats of the water based poly with some spackle mixed in and sand it back. First step would be to sand the existing paint off with 400 grit wet.

It is a lot of work if you want a fantastic finish though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYBOY2000
Planning on repainting mine. How do I get rid of the 'reptile skin' look? Any suggestions?

FB
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Old Jul 09, 2009, 09:03 AM
Registered User
Joined May 2003
172 Posts
Lightest method is to purchase white decal 8 by 11 sheets. Decal the whole plane. Spray vinegar on whole plane(it will soften decal for tight fit).Wait 24 hours then seal whole plane with water based Krylon rattle can primer and she is ready to paint. You can use enamals or acrylic.
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Old Jul 10, 2009, 11:14 AM
Registered User
Orange,CA
Joined Aug 2003
284 Posts
Just received mine:
First impressions..
Uggg..wish it were made out of Fiberglass.
The exhaust was crushed a bit during shipping. It is a very nice looking model, just don't know if it is worth $150
I have to say I was more impressed with the Sapac airplanes..you get a solid fiberglass body, and a wood built up wing.. for about $30 more. This is still a foamy!
I'm planning on putting in air retracts and the wood 'rails' that they screw into in the wing appear to be balsa..but I'll have to check into that, don't really know how strong thats gonna be!
Will get started in a couple days.

FB
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Old Jul 10, 2009, 11:08 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,640 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYBOY2000
I have to say I was more impressed with the Sapac airplanes..you get a solid fiberglass body, and a wood built up wing.. for about $30 more. This is still a foamy!
FB
The Sapac Hawk was an extremely difficult model for the average flyer to build, I know half the ones I sold never got flown more than a few times, the amount of work in them was very high. The fuses were not SOLID, they were light polyester glass and pretty weak actually, I had 4 out of a dozen arrive with cracks in the fuse where they were badly joined.

I know of 3 Hawks locally that never flew at all, VERY dissapointing. The sort of ppl who buy these are not flyers with 20yrs of jet & building experience, they are largely park flyers with a few years of flying experience and usually limited building knowledge and experience. This is the way modeling is now, the last 10-15 yrs has seen traditional modeling skills lost. More often than not they have no one around who can help them when they get stuck.

The lander models have a lot of work put into them and we all know molds are expensive to make. But regardless of what the plane is made from, Lander models all fly superbly straight out of the box and success rate is like 99%. This to me is far more important than a pretty looking fuse.

Personally glass fuses (especially polyester ones) scare me as one wrong move and they are history.
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Old Jul 11, 2009, 02:32 AM
Registered User
Orange,CA
Joined Aug 2003
284 Posts
Thanks extreme,
Point noted.
I build slow as molasses...so yes, it did take me a while to put the Hawk together. But, I didn't encounter any problems with the build. However on the maiden, the duct between the Y duct and fan collapsed and was injested, causing a deadstick and a New fan! The fuse is thin, for weight, but I still feel is pretty darn solid..I've built a few in my hobby lifetime lol.
There are thin spots, but overall not bad. I will reserve the rest of the judgement on the Hunter until after/during the build.
I wish they would have used a little carbon fiber strips instead of those plastic tube, reinforcements in the flight surfaces!

FB
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Old Jul 11, 2009, 03:25 PM
It's like an addiction!
Downwind3Zero's Avatar
NY, Rochester
Joined Oct 2003
1,506 Posts
Got the fan and ESC installed. Had to remove very little foam to get it to fit. I'll close up the rear rift with mylar to get a smooth outlet.
Intersesting that you would mention the collapsing FB2000, I just decided to reinforce that area with some CF mat!
Regards, Chris
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Old Jul 12, 2009, 01:16 AM
Registered User
Orange,CA
Joined Aug 2003
284 Posts
downwind,
The collapsing of the duct was on the Sapac Hawk. This airplane's ducting as you know, is part of the fuse.

Cheers,

FB
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Old Jul 12, 2009, 03:20 AM
It's like an addiction!
Downwind3Zero's Avatar
NY, Rochester
Joined Oct 2003
1,506 Posts
Yeah, missed that, thought you were talking Hunter
Chris
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Old Jul 12, 2009, 04:42 AM
It's like an addiction!
Downwind3Zero's Avatar
NY, Rochester
Joined Oct 2003
1,506 Posts
Layed out some carbon for reinforcement.
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Old Jul 14, 2009, 09:15 AM
UK Commercial RPAS Pilot
Scott Cuppello's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Carlisle
Joined Mar 2007
2,611 Posts
Question! Which way up did you measure C of G? I ask, because if you look at the silly small photo from RC Lander, it shows measurement at a point slightly aft of the leading edge, now at 130mm measured right way up from that point, equates to something totally different inverted...so, my question [eventually!], is how/where did you measure it!? I'm cautious after the Panther.

Also, the wing, did you end up just using the bolts? There seems to be a fair bit of flex in the leading edge, as I'm not all that bothered about wing removal, I'm inclined to glue it to the fus I think.
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