SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
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Old Aug 11, 2009, 11:37 PM
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I use Hitec 82 MG if you can't get them. Parkzone servo for the rudder and streering in a metal geared servo and works great. The hitec in 21 bucks and the parkzone is about 12 dollars. Make sure it is the one for the rudder/streering.
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Old Aug 12, 2009, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyline_g35
Did you guys take a look at my vid?

Tell me what you think of the landing...
Great maiden video. Landing was very smooooooth.
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Old Aug 12, 2009, 09:55 AM
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Just some quick observations before I start building this thing. The kit looks great, and that CNC metal fan is very impressive.
I purchased my kit from Max at http://parkrcmodels.com . Considering the current issues with some of the online venders, I have to say that dealing with Max was an extremely positive experience!
The main gear retracts in the wing work nice and smooth, however the nose gear retract is binding. If I cannot resolve the binding issue I am concerned that a stalled servo could brown out my AR 7000. I fly mostly off of grass fields so forgoing the gear altogether would skip 4 servos. This would not only reduce weight, but the amp draw of those servos on the bec. The video that Extreme RC posted flying off of the grass was very impressive.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

X-30
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Old Aug 12, 2009, 11:20 AM
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If you are going full house on this plane (8+ servos), I HIGHLY recommend using a separate NiMH or A123 pack for the RX power. I don't trust an internal BEC with any more than 3 servos, or an external BEC at all (I've had CC BECs melt on me).

If you want to keep the LG in, then work with the nose gear until you resolve the binding issue. BTW, what part of it is binding? I've had to rework the pre-bent wires some on my Panther and F-16 to get things to work just right.

Pat
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Old Aug 12, 2009, 12:11 PM
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Pat,

Thatís probably some good advice on the BEC, although I am running my Trex 500 with 4 medium sized digital servos and a gyro on the Align 60 amp ESC with a built in BEC.
If I go the full house route Iíll be running 10 servos. 3 retract 1 nose wheel steering
2 aileron, 2 flap 1 elevator and 1 rudder. The linkage on the nose wheel looks fine but I may have to disassemble the unit and lube the moving parts.

Thanks

Dave
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Old Aug 12, 2009, 01:16 PM
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I replaced the bent wire with straight, used a 12g mg 2kg towerpro servo and added a balsa block to stop the stall when the two forces meet.

the attached should help
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Old Aug 12, 2009, 10:46 PM
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Jimmy_H

Thank you for posting that picture of your nose wheel installation.
Have you test flown your Hunter?

Thanks

Dave
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Old Aug 13, 2009, 12:34 AM
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Is it possible to fit air retracts on this bird?
Considering a mini metal air set and get rid of a couple of servos.

I have not yet received my Hawk, so I don't know if there's any space to put the air tank.

//
Patrik
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Old Aug 13, 2009, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X30PILOT
Just some quick observations before I start building this thing. The kit looks great, and that CNC metal fan is very impressive.
I purchased my kit from Max at http://parkrcmodels.com . Considering the current issues with some of the online venders, I have to say that dealing with Max was an extremely positive experience!
The main gear retracts in the wing work nice and smooth, however the nose gear retract is binding. If I cannot resolve the binding issue I am concerned that a stalled servo could brown out my AR 7000. I fly mostly off of grass fields so forgoing the gear altogether would skip 4 servos. This would not only reduce weight, but the amp draw of those servos on the bec. The video that Extreme RC posted flying off of the grass was very impressive.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

X-30
Thanks for the kind words.
Is the servo over throwing or is the mechanism just rough and not working smooth? If it is a bad mechanism, get to me in email and we will work on a replacement for you. Also have you looked at the Suspension Struts for the Hunter? Really sweet!
Also I use these Du-Bro servo savers for situations like this where the servo might over throw or on the steering servo.
Take a look here: Du-Bro Servo Saver

Hope that helps

Max
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Old Aug 13, 2009, 08:20 PM
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This mat be one of the dumbest questions ever asked but:

How is easy is it for everyone to release the cockpit/battery hatch?

I haven't assembled the fuse yet but at the moment the only way I can get the hatch off is to push it from below. I can't see how I'll get it off when the lower front fuse is attached. Maybe I should swap the plastic latches for a couple of magnets...

Cheers!
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Old Aug 13, 2009, 08:23 PM
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The catch is good, once you have stuck the canopy down with decent quality double sided tape you will be able to pull the hatch up at the front edge by holding the canopy, same for all the Lander models. I have not had an issue yet with any of mine, broke the Panther one eventually but the canopy had been removed MANY times
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Old Aug 13, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Thanks, Extreme.
That's good to know.
Nice video earlier!

Cheers
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Old Aug 14, 2009, 02:09 AM
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What I did was took two pieces of plastic you know like something would come in from the store like a servo package and cut a L shape out of it and glued it to the front of the hatch to make a handle to pull up on the hatch. They work so good I have them on all of my RC Lander air planes and the clear plastic you can not see so it works great. If you need photos just ask. Okay Eric
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Old Aug 14, 2009, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giddyuperic
What I did was took two pieces of plastic you know like something would come in from the store like a servo package and cut a L shape out of it and glued it to the front of the hatch to make a handle to pull up on the hatch. They work so good I have them on all of my RC Lander air planes and the clear plastic you can not see so it works great. If you need photos just ask. Okay Eric
Eric - that's a great idea - thanks!
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Old Aug 14, 2009, 09:14 AM
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Extreme_RC


How is your Hunter holding up after repeated belly landings on the grass?
Did you put anything on the bottom to protect it?

Thanks

Dave
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