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| Wingspan: | 30 in. / 760mm |
| Wing Area: | 332 sq in / 21.4 dm. sq. |
| Weight: | 7.5 – 8 oz. / 215 – 225g |
| Length: | 22 in. / 545 mm |
| Wing Loading: | 3.3 – 3.4 oz/sq ft / 10 1—g/dm sq |
| Servos: | Futaba S3114 |
| Transmitter: | Futaba 9 Cap Super |
| Receiver: | GWS Naro 6 channel horizontal pins |
| Battery: | ElectriFly Competition BP300 7.4 LiPo 300mAh |
| Motor: | Brushless RimFire 300 28-22-1380 outrunner |
| ESC: | Great Planes Silver Series 8A |
| Manufacturer: | Electrifly |
| Available From: | Your Local Hobby Shop |
| MSRP: | $59.99 |
The Pup, named after it’s two-seater sister the Stutter, was a hit from the start. It was slow, yet quick to turn, and the Royal Flying Corps quickly showed the Pup’s superiority in the air. It was equipped as a fighter with a 7.7mm synchronized gun and an 80 HP motor and was a small but notable force on the western front. While it had many attributes including maneuverability and high altitude flight, it was the ability to land on a short field that pushed the Pup to more advanced uses. Records show that in August of 1917, a modified Pup became the first aircraft to ever land on the deck of a moving ship.
!Kit Contents
Mine arrived double boxed and with no damage. The ARF will take a couple of hours to complete, but give yourself a little more time so you can add in the extras like the flying wires.
Kit Includes:
Kit Requires:
The more accurately you build this slow flyer the happier you will be with its flight performance. There are two tech bulletins out at this time, so be sure to read both before you begin.
This bulletin deals with the gap between the fuselage and rudder.
This bulletin deals with the enlarging of the servo openings for Futaba 3114 servos.
Give yourself about two hours for the kit. The use of CA might remove some of the paint. Lightly grip the fuselage as you build or you may dent or crush the sidewalls.
The build begins with attaching the bottom wing to the bottom of the fuselage. I made some small holes along the point at which the struts will attach which come in handy later and ensure a good bond of the wing to the strut. Note that the outer skin of the fuselage will roll inward and allow for the wing to correctly mate with the fuselage. There is no need to trim anything. I used thick CA and held the wing in place. It is a press fit, and it holds very well as the glue dries. You can look inside the fuselage through the nose and see the joint.
The top wing has to fit perfectly. After correctly installing the struts and cabanes, I turned the plane upside down and slipped the top wing in place letting the plane weigh the wing down. I placed a small piece of foam under the wing center section to keep the dihedral and used a clothes pin and wooden sticks (protect the finish) to secure it while the glue was setting. I let everything dry overnight.
The horizontal stabilizer must be symmetrical with the wing. I glued the horizontal with CA and then installed the vertical stabilizer making sure I was at right angles to the horizontal stabilizer. Make sure to read the tech bulletin with regard to the rudder installation.
Once the glue had set, I installed the control horns. I used the wooden keeper from the opposite side to hold the horn in place and CA’d the keeper.
Begin the electronics installation by installing the servos. The Pup is designed for Pico Micro servos, so I had to cut a couple of millimeters off the front and back of the openings to get the Futaba 3114 servos to fit, and it was no problem (Tech Bulletin). Looking at the plane from the bottom with the nose pointed away, the rudder is on right and the elevator is on the left. Before installing, I trimmed the servo arms exactly as noted in the instructions to ensure the control throws. I finished by installing the screw-lock connectors to the linkages.
I installed the motor onto the motor mount with the supplied screws, turning the motor so the wires were toward the bottom of the plane. The holes matched up perfectly. One of the things I really liked about the ElectriFly components were the connectors already installed on the motor, ESC and battery. The motor and ESC use bullet connectors while the battery to the ESC is a Dean’s Micro connector.
I connected the motor to the ESC and installed the ESC on the right side of the motor mount and the receiver on the left side of the motor mount. I routed the wires so that the ESC battery connector was down and out the bottom of the plane at the motor mount.
I installed the battery using Velcro inside the motor mount with the wires out the bottom.
The cowling slips over the radio, battery, ESC and motor, but you need to be sure to center your side components and use a receiver that has horizontal pins so the connectors clear the cowling. I used the GWS 6-channel Naro horizontal pin receiver. In the end, I was slightly nose heavy, so choose components that are as light a possible. I added 7 grams (.25 oz.) to the tail.
The gear wire slips into a slot behind the motor mount. I installed the wooden struts and secured only the front with CA. These struts may appear to be cosmetic, but do provide support. The strut is meant to slide freely inside the wing (no glue). The wheels must rotate freely. I sanded the landing gear shaft to make sure they spun.
The flying wires are optional, but they look good! I used a heavy light colored thread. The lower outer strut to the upper cabane can be pulled through and glued with CA. The upper strut and lower wing required me to place the wire through the lower wing. I used some small pieces of wood to secure the lower wires.
As you rig the Pup, be sure to not let the wing flex or pull too hard on the wires or you will warp the wing. Support the plane at all times so the wings are neutral.
ElectriFly has incorporated a nifty way to check the CG: There are three tips that will give a tail heavy, neutral and nose heavy setting. I had to add seven grams (.25 oz.) to the tail to get the center setting level. Because the little Pup is so short you may perceive no need to add the weight as recognizing level my be very slight from out of level.
Boy, what a blast to fly this truly slow-flyer. I started with the rudder and elevator as my control inputs, but I just cannot fly in that configuration. I tend to lead with the ailerons and add rudder. I had to switch the rudder from channel 4 to channel 1 which improved my mental control of the plane greatly.
The little plane flew slowly. In fact, it is hard to stall. I liked the fact that the rudder was responsive, but didn’t throw the Pup into a spin. The elevator is sensitive so I dialed in about 30% expo.
I can see where the Pup would be great fun indoors. It turns tightly and is controllable.
The Pup has a lot of down and right thrust. It was good on the part of the designers to recognize the need! A quick throttle did not make the Pup jump skyward. The tracking was straight and predictable. Overall, it was just great flying fun.
With throttle management, the little 300 mAh LiPo can keep you in the air well over ten minutes. Most of the time I flew at half or less throttle, and only when necessary did I run at full throttle. The ridiculous wing loading of 3.3 oz./sq. ft. really shows up in flight. I flew on a calm day, but I do think the Pup is designed well enough to handle a slight breeze. I experienced some durability problems with the landing struts, but in the end some hot glue fixed everything. I even flat dropped the Pup on its nose while installing a new prop O-ring and had no damage. It’s light, but pretty durable.
For the most part you can achieve whatever type of takeoff you want. I never noted any tendency to P-factor off to the left or swerve during takeoff roll out. Tracking on the ground was good. Hit the throttle, and it leaps off the ground.
Landings are easy, but the surface must be smooth and preferably hard. I was flying off my dirt field (formerly grass until the farmer sprayed accidentally), and it was a little wet. The slim tires grabbed the mud, and several times I nosed over on landings. You can easily glide to a landing on a smooth hard surface. Grass is out of the question.
I did not hand launch the Pup, but I know that is not a problem. The problem is getting back to earth with nothing to land on without damage. There is really no way to save the cowling if you take the gear off.
Loops are about the limit of the Pup’s aerobatics performance. They are tight and would work well indoors. Slow flight is where the Pup excels, and it really makes the flights enjoyable. You will love being able to fly in tight areas and indoors at airspeeds that even if you do crash will cause little in the way of damage.
As far as I am concerned ElectryFly’s Sopwith Pup is all about following the inputs of the pilot and being slow enough to react to during flight. These are indeed characteristics of a good beginner aircraft, but it will not fly itself.
I think all will love the scale looks and potential fun-factor the little Pup has to offer.
Without reservation I recommend ElectriFly’s Sopwith Pup. It’s an elegant, gentle, slow flyer with great scale looks.
Yea:
Nay:
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